Looking for a new sub. please help

[jinjuku]

Does a single JL have more output than the dual 160's? The price point would obviously be lower for the JL then considering everything else being equal (cabinent, amp etc).

I haven't had the chance to demo the JL. I can wish though

 

[annunaki]

Hmm...now im thinking

I'm pretty sure I want a sealed box, as tight bass is my number one concern.
But if I'm going for the behringer, is it worth getting 2 12" subs that have really tight bass, and since there is two...they will sound louder?

also, I don't think im going to want to get the JL, as I don't think I can jusitfy the extra $138.

I could justify the extra money because I have used both subs in question. The JL is a superior driver, by a fair margin too.

Dual 12" drivers may be an option as you could more evenly balance response within your room.

 

[annunaki]

Whats odd is that i've been running WinISD, and the one JL 15W3v2 seem to perform much better than the 2 daytons.

Thanks for the info on the fan. (I'll probably put some sound insulation around it...but I know ill have to keep the fan port open)

SO if it was 2 dayton 12" vs. 1 JL 15" vs. 2 eD 160v.2:

which would you say would have better musical quality?
which would have a higher SPL at the lower end (20Hz)?

It will all depend upon the enclosures each sub is in. The dayton Titanic 12" woofers and the dual eD 160's would have a very slight advantage over the JL in output if they were all sealed, but the JL would go deeper.

If the JL were ported and the 12's sealed, it would be pretty close as far as SPL is concerned. The JL would trounce on the deep end though, 20hz and down.

The dual subs will give an advantage of balancing the response in the room by minimizing peaks and nulls. That the JL cannot do anything to improve upon , unless you add another one down the road.

The 15W3v2-D2 models very well and is an excellent performer. It just plain sounds better than the Dayton. Sorry, but that is how I see it. I have experience with both.

 

[annunaki]

Well I very much agree with your 2 cents. I think thats what I'm going to do.
Now with the beringer I need to convert the XLR to RCA.
Should I use a box like an Art clean box. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CleanBox/

or should I just use simple XLR M to RCA F connectors.

Also,
Would I want the D2 Voice Coil, or D4 Voice Coil.


So now onto the Box.
I've looked at what eD Recommends, and the box size should have internal dementions of:

33.5 (w) x 16.5 (h) x 10.5 (d)

Other than that I know nothing about the box....

You will want two seperate enclosures if you are doing dual 12" subs. Placing two subs within the room will yield more even reponse and have better performance.

You will want dual 4 ohm coils if you want the mak power available from the EP2500 run it in stereo (with a mono LFE signal). One sub on each channel receiving close to 1,250 watts rms each. If you do not need that much, go dual 2 ohm and wire the coils in series on each driver for a 4 ohm load. This will yield around 750 watts rms per sub.

 

[annunaki]

Since it looks like all inputs are balanced, I would use the Clean Box. I don't think using an unbalanced RCA cinch connector will work out.

You will most likely want to run the AMP as a mono-block. It is rated at 2400 Watts at 4 ohm. I would try this wiring combination that nets you an 8 ohm load (1200 watts):

Get two of the Dual 2's. They would wire in a series and come out to an 8 ohm load. The EP2500 wouldn't even break a sweat. 2+2+2+2=8

Set the filter on the EP2500 at 30Hz. Since this is primarily for music I would consider a sealed enclosure.

I disagree here. Run one sub on each channel. Running each channel at 2ohms is the same as bridged at 4 ohms and is a bit easier on the amplifier. Running individual subs in series is not usually reccommended. If you want less power to each driver use the dual 2 ohm (each subs coils wired in series for a 4 ohm load on each channel)

 

[annunaki]

Does a single JL have more output than the dual 160's? The price point would obviously be lower for the JL then considering everything else being equal (cabinent, amp etc).

I haven't had the chance to demo the JL. I can wish though

It depends on how the enclosures are set up. The 15" will play deeper, no bones about it. Will it be louder? Two 12" subs should be a slight surface area advantage giving the ed's the nod there.

 

[jinjuku]

It depends on how the enclosures are set up. The 15" will play deeper, no bones about it. Will it be louder? Two 12" subs should be a slight surface area advantage giving the ed's the nod there.

I thought the OP had a 90% music / 10% HT balance... So 'deeper' may be a minimized factor in determination of the end solution.

 

[whubbard]

Yes, the 'deeper' isn't really needed....i think.

The thing is...I'm not sure I have enough space to put them in two boxes that will be far apart. They will probably be about 2 feet apart...unless I were to put one in the front of the room, and one in the back?

So I would have the clean box, to the behringer, which would then have my speaker wire running from it, to the subs, which will be in two different boxes.
The behringer will have 1 sub on channel one, which will ouput 4 ohms, as it is a 4ohm sub, and it will other the other sub on channel two, also outputting 4 ohms.
Do I have this right?

However, right now is it okay to say that I should get:
Behringer 2500
Dual eD 16Ov.2 (4ohms)
ART Clean Box

 

[jinjuku]

Correct, line level to the ART Clean Box->EP2500->Sub(s). Run the the entire setup at 4ohm per channel and the amp will run cooler.

 

[annunaki]

The JL sub is highly accurate and will play deeper in a sealed enclosure than it's 12" counterparts. The patented motor design is highly linear as is the suspension. I would not rule it out completely. For music it does exceptionally well too.

As for the dual subs. One in the front of the room and one in the back would work pretty well. Especially in opposing corners. Placement should really be decided after some careful listening. Check out the tutorial on this site for setting up subwoofers.

 

[annunaki]

If this is the sub: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=36

You will want dual 2 ohm coils to run it the way you intend. 4 ohms per channel.

 

[whubbard]

Yes, thats the one.
However, you were saying something about be able to put 1,250 amps per channel...how would I do this, as its what i want to do

 

[jinjuku]

Actually it is 1250 watts per channel The EP2500 is a 2500 watt amp in total when running a 2 ohm load (resistance of speaker/s) on each channel.

You would cut the wattage in half by doubling the resistance to 4 ohms. So basically the system would be 1250 watt in total with a 4 ohm load on each channel. This means that the amp is not going to get as hot as it would with a 2 ohm load/channel. But you do lose some wattage. Not a big deal considering that 1250 watts is a ton of power for most listening environments.

The 160v.2 is a 650 watt RMS (continuous power handling) and 1100 watt peak.

You can wire the Dual 4 two ways: Series for an 8 ohm load, or Parallel for a 2ohm load.

You can wire the Dual 2 two ways: Series for a 4 ohm load, or Parallel for a 1 ohm load.

The issue is this: You are taking a chance on wiring the setup for 2 ohms and having the potential of ALOT more power being delivered to the 160v.2 than was designed for. The EP has a power rating in RMS of 1200/Channel at 2 ohm, 750/Channel for 4 ohm.

I would run the Dual 2 in series and go with the 750/Channel route. You are better off getting a little more amp than a little less amp.

A little less amp paints a scenario of sending a clipped signal to the speaker. That is not a desirable situation. The speaker should be able to handle a little more clean power than it's spec states. As long as it is not for a prolonged time you should be fine.

 

[Wafflesomd]

That is a P/A sub. More or less junk for home theater applications. It may get lod from 40hz to 150hz but that is it. Big deal

It will play below 40hrtz as long as you don't go to high in dBL's. Once you start getting in the 90-100 dBL range, that's where you cutoff from 30-35hrtz down, or else the speaker will rip itself to shreds.

6 of those stacked in scoops, yah, it's a pretty big deal.

 

[annunaki]

It will play below 40hrtz as long as you don't go to high in dBL's. Once you start getting in the 90-100 dBL range, that's where you cutoff from 30-35hrtz down, or else the speaker will rip itself to shreds.

6 of those stacked in scoops, yah, it's a pretty big deal.

I am not doubting is is good when used in its design application, but it would not do well for home Theater/Audio use.

 

[Wafflesomd]

I am not doubting is is good when used in its design application, but it would not do well for home Theater/Audio use.

I'll agree with you there.

 

[whubbard]

Okay, so I want to get the most out of the sub.
So I take the 2 Ohm driver, and hook it up to one channel.
and that the other 2 Ohn driver, and hook it up to the other.

Right?

p.s. Heat doesn't matter to me. (I'll make sure the amp doesn't fry itself)

 

[jinjuku]

You will take the Dual 2 (has two +/- terminals) and connect them in series:

Speaker cup terminal + to speaker + then from speaker - of the 1st terminal to + on second terminal then from second terminal - to Speaker cup negative. It is like stringing a set of lights.

Check out the eD page on wiring. You need to look at the top right wiring diagram.

Heat will be less of an issue just due to the way you will have it setup. Nice side bonus eh?

 

[annunaki]

You can wire the sub in series right on the sub itself.

Coil 1 + to Coil 2-

Coil 2 + to enclosure terminal +

Coil 1 - to enclosure terminal -

Then run the corresponding enclosure terminal + and - to the amp channel + and -

 

[whubbard]

So would I bridge the behringer so it outputs in mono (which is 2400W), and then put both speakers into their own separate series, and then have them come back and connected to the same terminals?