Best Turntable Isolation Materials

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
From experience and actual measurements - mag lev is no different to any other kind of "springing"...

In my case I found that the damping provided by sorbothane, improved things more than the spring only behaviour of MagLev.... you can select different thicknesses and hardnesses of sorbothane to provide "springiness" - but maglev simply passes the energy through albeit refracted/difracted to a different frequency, whereas rubber/sorbothan style materials convert some of the energy into heat - so you dissipate more energy.
Springs are useless and actually make transmitted vibrations worse. Rigidity is the answer, and that has been my approach for over half a century. I can assure you that it is a total solution and the correct solution. I have had total freedom from transmitted vibrations for years. You can skip and jump all you want round my turntables and there are zero problems.
 
D

dlaloum

Full Audioholic
Springs are useless and actually make transmitted vibrations worse. Rigidity is the answer, and that has been my approach for over half a century. I can assure you that it is a total solution and the correct solution. I have had total freedom from transmitted vibrations for years. You can skip and jump all you want round my turntables and there are zero problems.
Springs don't make vibrations worse - depending on the type and materials they can convert some frequency ranges to heat - dissipating it, other vibrations will tend to be converted to energy at the springs resonant frequency (which can be calculated from springs constants and mass etc...) - with a turntable, if the resonant frequency of the spring/mass combination is outside the critical zones - you effectively remove the undesired vibrations and shift them to where they do less harm.

Solid materials will reflect and refract frequencies (just like light, prisms and lenses) - that means with judicious use of materials that reflect or refract at specific frequencies, combined with materials that damp (convert vibration to heat) - you can trap and dissipate specific frequencies.

The trouble with all this is, that in most cases the user has no idea which frequencies are being reflected, which ones refracted and which ones damped - so the end result becomes completely random!

If you use your TT as a measurement instrument (place the needle on the platter with the motor turned off - it becomes a VERY sensitive measuring tool for the frequencies we want!!!) - then you can see what comes through from environmental vibrations/noise, or from feedback, footfall, etc...

And then you can experimentally work through options to reduce those vibrations and improve performance.

Almost invariably, springs are part of the answer.... (in my case Sorbothane pucks acting as combined spings/dampers)
 
D

dlaloum

Full Audioholic
Springs are useless and actually make transmitted vibrations worse. Rigidity is the answer, and that has been my approach for over half a century. I can assure you that it is a total solution and the correct solution. I have had total freedom from transmitted vibrations for years. You can skip and jump all you want round my turntables and there are zero problems.
P.S. in my 1950's house with wooden floors - the unsuspended JVC QL-Y5 (and similar "solid" unpsrung designs) had dire issues with any form of Rigid mounting.
My Revox B795 which is a sprung turntable design had no major issues

It took me a lot of experimenting to get the platform structure to the point where I could indeed "skip, jump all I want" without any problems!!

So as I have stated before - the solution is highly dependent on the structure of the building it is going in, as well as the specific turntable, and its design (sprung/unsprung) etc.... there is no one solution that fits all cases...
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Springs don't make vibrations worse - depending on the type and materials they can convert some frequency ranges to heat - dissipating it, other vibrations will tend to be converted to energy at the springs resonant frequency (which can be calculated from springs constants and mass etc...) - with a turntable, if the resonant frequency of the spring/mass combination is outside the critical zones - you effectively remove the undesired vibrations and shift them to where they do less harm.

Solid materials will reflect and refract frequencies (just like light, prisms and lenses) - that means with judicious use of materials that reflect or refract at specific frequencies, combined with materials that damp (convert vibration to heat) - you can trap and dissipate specific frequencies.

The trouble with all this is, that in most cases the user has no idea which frequencies are being reflected, which ones refracted and which ones damped - so the end result becomes completely random!

If you use your TT as a measurement instrument (place the needle on the platter with the motor turned off - it becomes a VERY sensitive measuring tool for the frequencies we want!!!) - then you can see what comes through from environmental vibrations/noise, or from feedback, footfall, etc...

And then you can experimentally work through options to reduce those vibrations and improve performance.

Almost invariably, springs are part of the answer.... (in my case Sorbothane pucks acting as combined spings/dampers)
I expect that some form of sorbothane damping pucks/feet/pad will be my best option, as wall-mounting won't be a good option for me. I looked at prices for various sorbothane products - they aren't cheap! So, I'd like to keep experimentation to a minimum.

This is what I'm dealing with:
20201005_203115B.jpg


A normal footfall in close proximity to the stand will cause the stylus to skip. I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that the softest durometer over the widest area would provide the best chance of success. I would accomplish this by placing a sheet of 1/2" MDF on top of the sorbothane*, with the turntable sitting on the MDF. The MDF would distribute the weight of the turntable over the sorbothane, providing the most absorption with the least compression of the sorbothane. Does that make sense?

*Sheet/pad preferably, or pucks if that is significantly less spendy.
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
I expect that some form of sorbothane damping pucks/feet/pad will be my best option, as wall-mounting won't be a good option for me. I looked at prices for various sorbothane products - they aren't cheap! So, I'd like to keep experimentation to a minimum.

This is what I'm dealing with:
View attachment 70762

A normal footfall in close proximity to the stand will cause the stylus to skip. I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that the softest durometer over the widest area would provide the best chance of success. I would accomplish this by placing a sheet of 1/2" MDF on top of the sorbothane*, with the turntable sitting on the MDF. The MDF would distribute the weight of the turntable over the sorbothane, providing the most absorption with the least compression of the sorbothane. Does that make sense?

*Sheet/pad preferably, or pucks if that is significantly less spendy.
Looks like similar flooring to our war time bungalow. The root issue is likely deflection in the floor joists, which I'm sure you are aware of. Is it a finished space under the floor or would you have access to the joists? Doubling the joists would firm up the floor, assuming there are no gaps between the flooring and the sub-floor and the joists. If you can't do anything to affect the structure underneath, then it comes down to isolating the turntable from the cabinet. I think what you have in mind makes sense as you need mechanical isolation. Does the article touch on isolation platforms like those by IsoAcoustics (zaZen)?
 
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