Subwoofer repair - Minnesota

[Jack N]

Does anyone know of a repair shop in Minnesota or western Wisconsin that fixes subwoofers?

 

[Squishman]

Does anyone know of a repair shop in Minnesota or western Wisconsin that fixes subwoofers?

Midwest Speaker in Roseville probably does. I know they re-cone speakers.

 

[Jack N]

Ya, I thought they would too. Unfortunately they only repair drivers, nothing on the electronics side. Thanks though.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

What is the unit?

 

[TLS Guy]

Does anyone know of a repair shop in Minnesota or western Wisconsin that fixes subwoofers?

What subwoofer and what is wrong with it? Where do you live in Minnesota? The class D amps that are in subs, are an absolute misery to work on. The other issue is that almost no one issues service manuals any more. Without a service manual no one can begin to service a unit like that.

If you tell me what you have, and what is the matter with it, and you live in, or close to the metro, I may be able to help you if the unit is realistically serviceable. That is one reason why I have such a lot of classy older gear. Service manuals were easily available in times past, and I have been able to keep my good older gear in prime condition in the main. I have a pretty decent service area at the back of my equipment chase.

 

[Golfx]

What subwoofer and what is wrong with it? Where do you live in Minnesota? The class D amps that are in subs, are an absolute misery to work on. The other issue is that almost no one issues service manuals any more. Without a service manual no one can begin to service a unit like that.

If you tell me what you have, and what is the matter with it, and you live in, or close to the metro, I may be able to help you if the unit is realistically serviceable. That is one reason why I have such a lot of classy older gear. Service manuals were easily available in times past, and I have been able to keep my good older gear in prime condition in the main. I have a pretty decent service area at the back of my equipment chase.

What a nice thing to do.

 

[Eppie]

I wish I had a better setup for electronics repair. Still missing a few important pieces of diagnostic equipment. I still follow a few channels on Youtube that do electronics repair and I think those plate amps are serviceable as long as there is not too much of that horrid glue poured over the components. You can break the circuit down to a switch mode power supply, pre-amp (which includes the crossover and filtering) and the amplifier section. As many amps have an auto-on feature, there is also a constant source supply to run the start up circuit. Once you have seen enough of these amps, you develop the ability to identify the various parts of the circuitry even without a schematic.

The majority of failures seem typical: bad capacitors or blown output transistors. Old glue can also become conductive. A single bad cap can cause the switch mode power supply to fail. Repairability also hinges on the use of surface mount components. If any small surface mounted parts become defective, you need a digital microscope to be good at replacement. Resistors, caps and transistors can be replaced with a soldering iron, but surface mount ICs need hot air.

The repair costs can be hard to justify on a $250 sub but for a good quality unit it would be worth investigating. It's getting difficult to find competent repair technicians, though, willing to take on these types of repairs.

 

[TLS Guy]

I wish I had a better setup for electronics repair. Still missing a few important pieces of diagnostic equipment. I still follow a few channels on Youtube that do electronics repair and I think those plate amps are serviceable as long as there is not too much of that horrid glue poured over the components. You can break the circuit down to a switch mode power supply, pre-amp (which includes the crossover and filtering) and the amplifier section. As many amps have an auto-on feature, there is also a constant source supply to run the start up circuit. Once you have seen enough of these amps, you develop the ability to identify the various parts of the circuitry even without a schematic.

The majority of failures seem typical: bad capacitors or blown output transistors. Old glue can also become conductive. A single bad cap can cause the switch mode power supply to fail. Repairability also hinges on the use of surface mount components. If any small surface mounted parts become defective, you need a digital microscope to be good at replacement. Resistors, caps and transistors can be replaced with a soldering iron, but surface mount ICs need hot air.

The repair costs can be hard to justify on a $250 sub but for a good quality unit it would be worth investigating. It's getting difficult to find competent repair technicians, though, willing to take on these types of repairs.

The problem is that schematics are not published, let alone a service manual. In my view that needs a change in law. It is a disgrace. As I said that is why I use as little modern equipment as possible. Peter Walker included the circuits and all the relevant test points and voltages in the instruction manual. He respected his customer's intelligence. If you needed help, it was not uncommon for him to be on the phone!

For the OP, if his sub is decent and not a junk product, then probably the best solution is to fit a new plate amp, or convert it to a passive sub.

 

[Jack N]

My apologies to everyone that's answered for taking so long to get back to you. I go to bed early because I get up at 3:45am to go to work and I usually don't get home until mid-afternoon at the earliest. I'll respond to your posts in order.

William Lemmerhirt - It's an old Energy ESW-V8. It's one of 2 of these units I use at the back of the theater to help with room modes. I have 2 SVS 12" subs up front.

TLS Guy – 1) It's an old Energy ESW-V8. It's one of 2 of these units I use at the back of the theater to help with room modes. I have 2 SVS 12" subs up front. 2) I live in Albertville. 3) It makes an intermittent low level humming that will remind you of a ground loop or EMI. I unplugged the cable to eliminate that possibility and it was still there so it has to be something in the sub amplifier. 4) Class D amp – This model sub uses a BASH amp which is one of the reasons why I want to keep it and not replace it. I don’t have a service manual but I’m going to hold out hope I can find somebody to work on it. 5) "If you tell me what you have, and what is the matter with it, and you live in, or close to the metro, I may be able to help you if the unit is realistically serviceable" – Wow! That’s awfully nice of you! I'd certainly pay you. You mentioned class D amps so I’m wondering if you work on BASH? Where abouts do you live? How can I contact you?

Golfx – I agree!

Eppie – Totally agree. It’s definitely getting harder and harder as time goes on to find competent repair people, especially for audio.

TLS Guy – I definitely want to keep the original BASH amp if it’s at all possible. If I switch the amp in this sub, I’d have to switch the amp in the other sub too. Also, the SVS PB-12+ subs up front use BASH amps and they all seem to work well together.

 

[TLS Guy]

My apologies to everyone that's answered for taking so long to get back to you. I go to bed early because I get up at 3:45am to go to work and I usually don't get home until mid-afternoon at the earliest. I'll respond to your posts in order.

William Lemmerhirt - It's an old Energy ESW-V8. It's one of 2 of these units I use at the back of the theater to help with room modes. I have 2 SVS 12" subs up front.

TLS Guy – 1) It's an old Energy ESW-V8. It's one of 2 of these units I use at the back of the theater to help with room modes. I have 2 SVS 12" subs up front. 2) I live in Albertville. 3) It makes an intermittent low level humming that will remind you of a ground loop or EMI. I unplugged the cable to eliminate that possibility and it was still there so it has to be something in the sub amplifier. 4) Class D amp – This model sub uses a BASH amp which is one of the reasons why I want to keep it and not replace it. I don’t have a service manual but I’m going to hold out hope I can find somebody to work on it. 5) "If you tell me what you have, and what is the matter with it, and you live in, or close to the metro, I may be able to help you if the unit is realistically serviceable" – Wow! That’s awfully nice of you! I'd certainly pay you. You mentioned class D amps so I’m wondering if you work on BASH? Where abouts do you live? How can I contact you?

Golfx – I agree!

Eppie – Totally agree. It’s definitely getting harder and harder as time goes on to find competent repair people, especially for audio.

TLS Guy – I definitely want to keep the original BASH amp if it’s at all possible. If I switch the amp in this sub, I’d have to switch the amp in the other sub too. Also, the SVS PB-12+ subs up front use BASH amps and they all seem to work well together.

I doubt it will be possible to keep that old Bash amp. It seems those subs had a bridged hybrid amp. So it sounds as if there are two amps bridged. A quick look seems that they have given a lot of grief. I guess given it is a bridged amp, it raises the possibility the driver may have an unusual impedance. If the driver is four or eight ohms, then the best thing to do is replace the amp.

I did PM you. Can you give me the model number of the amp, and I will see if I can find more information?

 

[Jack N]

I doubt it will be possible to keep that old Bash amp. It seems those subs had a bridged hybrid amp. So it sounds as if there are two amps bridged. A quick look seems that they have given a lot of grief. I guess given it is a bridged amp, it raises the possibility the driver may have an unusual impedance. If the driver is four or eight ohms, then the best thing to do is replace the amp.

I did PM you. Can you give me the model number of the amp, and I will see if I can find more information?

I got your email address and sent an email. I'll try replying to your PM.

 

[Eppie]

Here's a list of service centres in N.A.:
https://www.energy-speakers.com/support/service-centers/
Maybe someone is willing to share the schematic, but Energy was bought out by Klipsch so I would not place much hope in that.

TLS Guy, I'm a big proponent of right to repair, so you're preaching to the choir.

If the amp has a low level hum, there is a good chance that one of the filter caps is gone or is going bad. Intermittent issues are a PITA though as Murphy's Law has the equipment work fine as soon as you place it on a work bench. Could also just be a cold solder joint. Those amps tend to use discreet power transistors so the amp section is likely fine. The glue can go conductive so that can be an issue as well. Just speculating of course.

 

[TLS Guy]

Here's a list of service centres in N.A.:
https://www.energy-speakers.com/support/service-centers/
Maybe someone is willing to share the schematic, but Energy was bought out by Klipsch so I would not place much hope in that.

TLS Guy, I'm a big proponent of right to repair, so you're preaching to the choir.

If the amp has a low level hum, there is a good chance that one of the filter caps is gone or is going bad. Intermittent issues are a PITA though as Murphy's Law has the equipment work fine as soon as you place it on a work bench. Could also just be a cold solder joint. Those amps tend to use discreet power transistors so the amp section is likely fine. The glue can go conductive so that can be an issue as well. Just speculating of course.

You know that will be a misery unit. Most of the plate amps are unserviceable. For one thing the components are covered in glue to stop them vibrating. They have got better over time. But that plate amp was junk when it was new and it will be junk if it could be fixed, which I doubt.

 

[afterlife2]

I got that Energy 8 inch sub at a thrift store for $30-40 about 3 years ago and use it in my bedroom 7.2 and so far it works great. I have a second energy 8 inch ESW-C8 and the combo works great. If I were you I'd look on Craigslist or eBay and buy a used one. They are under $100.

 

[Jack N]

Eppie – Thanks for the list. It’s appreciated.

Afterlife2 – I agree. For an 8” sub it doesn’t sound too bad. I’ve been watching eBay and CL but because of their age you hardly ever see one anymore. Either that or they want you to buy all of their speakers with it too as a package deal.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Dayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier

Dayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate AmplifierDayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate AmplifierThe plate amplifier that packs a punch!The Dayton Audio SPA100-D high-efficiency subwoofer plate amp packs big-amp features into a compact chassis that is ideal for...

www.parts-express.com

Something like this might work. Mount it in a box and run speaker leads into the old sub. I would not recommend a Willy nilly thing for a main, single use subwoofer. But honestly for what you need it for it might be just fine.

 

[TLS Guy]

Dayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier

Dayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate AmplifierDayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate AmplifierThe plate amplifier that packs a punch!The Dayton Audio SPA100-D high-efficiency subwoofer plate amp packs big-amp features into a compact chassis that is ideal for...

www.parts-express.com

Something like this might work. Mount it in a box and run speaker leads into the old sub. I would not recommend a Willy nilly thing for a main, single use subwoofer. But honestly for what you need it for it might be just fine.

The impedance of the driver in his sub is 8 ohms. I thought it likely was, as this unit uses a class switching power supply, feeding two bridged 100 ohm class AB amps. It is really weird contraption. No wonder there are not many still around. So that amp would only deliver 50 watts into his driver.

So I selected this one for him. So that will be short by 2 db. of his other amp, but do the job at reasonable cost.

His unit uses surface mount components despite its age, so it is not likely repairable. A stand alone 200 watt into 8 ohm mono block gets expensive at $300.00.

The best option for getting that sub up and running is to fit a different plate amp, which should be possible.

 

[afterlife2]

Make an offer of $90-100 and no higher. This is another decent 8 inch I have in a 2.1 system: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196047017751?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sJl9rFqiRyK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gspIgLxWR5a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Jack N]

Afterlife2 - I have a physical space limitation and that sub looks like it's too large. Even if I stood it on end I'd have my doubts. Thanks for looking though.

 

[TLS Guy]

Afterlife2 - I have a physical space limitation and that sub looks like it's too large. Even if I stood it on end I'd have my doubts. Thanks for looking though.

That sub is from 1993 and has a woofer with a foam surround. So would expect to be re-foaming that shortly of not now.

In your situation I think your best solution by far is to repower the sub you have. I don't think that will be too difficult. Your cheapest solution is to ditch those small subs. I find it hard to believe they are bringing anything significant to the table. I would see how you get on without them. If you really think you are missing them, I think I can easily repower that sub for you.