Car audio subwoofer in the house?

[panteragstk]

What amplifier do you recommend? Something that won't break the bank. I'm looking in between 1500 to 2,000 k that is capable of running on a 2 ohm load.

Pro amps are the way if you're looking for that sort of power. I've had very good luck with Crown amps running at 2 ohms for years without breaking a sweat. The XLS drive core series is light and powerful.

I'm not a fan, but Behringer also makes a good set of amps for your $$. Used pro amps should be considered as long as they weren't abused. Even then, enough of them are built like tanks that they're probably fine even if used hard.

 

[highfigh]

Get more out of the driver with the better box? This enclosure was built by an SQ competitor world champion that owns the best car audio shop in Knoxville Tennessee. The enclosure was built specifically for that driver to get the absolute best out of it. I don't know if it will work well for home theater or just in the house in general but in the car it sounds phenomenal.

In a car, this is probably great, but that doesn't mean it will be the correct cabinet for in an open environment.

If you had this built by that shop, maybe they can model it for an enclosure with lower Qts.

 

[TLS Guy]

I do know the subwoofer will get loud and it's very musical. When I pull the sub out I will definitely test it. I know several sound quality competitors that use the subwoofer exclusively and they love them. Yes, their specs are always a little off. I had one of the older models subwoofers the RM series. Dealing with Nick the owner is a real pain. He literally shot me some TS specs for that subwoofer written on a paper towel. This company for the money is pretty hard to beat but they're transparency sometimes is a joke. They're nowhere near as bad as fi audio though.

What amplifier do you recommend? Something that won't break the bank. I'm looking in between 1500 to 2,000 k that is capable of running on a 2 ohm load.

In this range this should do the trick.

Do not run this amp bridged into 2 ohm. If that speaker turns out to be DVC four ohms each coil, then run one channel into each VC and DO NOT couple them.

 

[lovinthehd]

FD

Many of his Drivers are reportedly all over the place.
Mine are no different.
Some say the differences aren't enough to really worry about fine tuning performance...
However, at least on mine there are some significant variations that have admittedly reduced my zeal in building these out... that and the still astronomical cost of BB Ply.
*shrugs

IIRC didn't you take some measurements with DATS?

 

[ryanosaur]

FD

IIRC didn't you take some measurements with DATS?

pdf attached...

One of the Q measurements is off... I was still learning how to get good consistent measurements with the added mass method when I was doing this. I'll likely redo the measurements before I do a build, but with the cost of materials still being stupid I'm not in too much of a rush.

I think Nick knows these drivers don't measure to spec, but he told me to build to published spec anyway. TLS and I had discussed, as well as my sharing with a cat from JBL Research... Not much else to say about these Drivers.

Nick does recommend smaller sealed enclosures, usually, with lots of power and DSP to run a Linkwitz Transform for flattening the curve below natural rolloff. For infrasonic output, he advised a 4cu.ft enclosure, FWIW.
I did a HornResp model that showed adequate performance being pushed pretty hard. Of course, it is also well known that Nick's Drivers don't necessarily like being pushed to Xmax. So even though these Drivers can handle gobs of power, and many will put these into larger boxes than the recommended model on Nicks site, there is ample reason to question finished performance.
I've yet to see any kind of quasi-anechoic measurements for a build using these: actual performance results are really unknown. I fantasize about doing some ground plane measurements when I do build just to see what is actually happening with them.

But that is looking like a distant project.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

pdf attached...

One of the Q measurements is off... I was still learning how to get good consistent measurements with the added mass method when I was doing this. I'll likely redo the measurements before I do a build, but with the cost of materials still being stupid I'm not in too much of a rush.

I think Nick knows these drivers don't measure to spec, but he told me to build to published spec anyway. TLS and I had discussed, as well as my sharing with a cat from JBL Research... Not much else to say about these Drivers.

Nick does recommend smaller sealed enclosures, usually, with lots of power and DSP to run a Linkwitz Transform for flattening the curve below natural rolloff. For infrasonic output, he advised a 4cu.ft enclosure, FWIW.
I did a HornResp model that showed adequate performance being pushed pretty hard. Of course, it is also well known that Nick's Drivers don't necessarily like being pushed to Xmax. So even though these Drivers can handle gobs of power, and many will put these into larger boxes than the recommended model on Nicks site, there is ample reason to question finished performance.
I've yet to see any kind of quasi-anechoic measurements for a build using these: actual performance results are really unknown. I fantasize about doing some ground plane measurements when I do build just to see what is actually happening with them.

But that is looking like a distant project.

I know this is subjective but what do you consider to be the most violent and accurate subwoofer manufactured at this time?

 

[Eppie]

It is a simple matter to verify whether that particular subwoofer is a dual voice coil or not. If it has two wire terminals, it's a single voice coil; four wire terminals, it's dual voice coil.

In choosing your amp, the members would need to know your source equipment. If you are using a receiver with subwoofer pre-out, then you can use a straight amplifier. If you are feeding the sub a full range signal, then you may want to look for an amp with a low pass filter.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I know this is subjective but what do you consider to be the most violent and accurate subwoofer manufactured at this time?

Probably subs from Rythmik, PSA, funk, monolith, JTR. They all make some very potent subs so choosing one might show that they’re more similar than different in a lot of ways.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

Probably subs from Rythmik, PSA, funk, monolith, JTR. They all make some very potent subs so choosing one might show that they’re more similar than different in a lot of ways.

I was referring to raw drivers

 

[Sassafras LLC]

Probably subs from Rythmik, PSA, funk, monolith, JTR. They all make some very potent subs so choosing one might show that they’re more similar than different in a lot of ways.

My source is a Yamaha as 801

 

[TLS Guy]

I know this is subjective but what do you consider to be the most violent and accurate subwoofer manufactured at this time?

You can't consider drivers in isolation. Application is everything. I use two 10" drivers per side in my bass lines. They are not even sub drivers, but in that application in those aperiodic transmission lines that shake to floor and your ass with no call for butt shakers. It is a good total design concept that gets results.