Yamaha AVENTAGE 2021 AV Receivers Bulk Up on Power and 8K Features

C

chapp

Audioholic
Hey, have any of you guys noticed with your on screen display up. This cool lil umm display that'll pop up when you go into Options, and set On-screen Information to on. The display of A.I. will pop up showing what it's doing on the fly. I just discovered this pretty cool. I'm sure you guy's that have the A6A and A8A will show this. Those of you who know me mine is the A4A. Just thought I'd mention this.
View attachment 54632View attachment 54633
Hey, that's a nice feature which I did not know about, but then I never use AI. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
Hey, that's a nice feature which I did not know about, but then I never use AI. Thanks for pointing it out.
I was messing around with the OSD, and was watching GOT season 8 on 4K disc. Went into Options, was looking for the 4K video source output. Sorry about the photos, not the best. I use A.I. mostly for streaming when watching Netflix.
 
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S

Sunrun

Audiophyte
I was messing around with the OSD, and was watching GOT season 8 on 4K disc. Went into Options, was looking for the 4K video source output. Sorry about the photos, not the best. I use A.I. mostly for streaming when watching Netflix.
Surrround:AI improved both my cable TV and Netflix listening
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
At some point I will return mine after using it for one year as it doesn't match the product description.
Having to wait half a year to get a "main" feature of this product is unacceptable.
Edit : I sent an email about how to send my amp back. I assume I will have to go back to Denon.
Right call. I was worried that they would be milking people to buy AVRs and then delaying main features endlessly. It's ridiculous considering the fact that other vendors have those features functional.

In addition, it seems that new production line of Anthem's AVM90 will be the first product with full 48 Gbps ports (7+3), available from March 21st.
 
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ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Right call. I was worried that they would be milking people to buy AVRs and then delaying main features endlessly. It's ridiculous considering the fact that other vendors have those features funtional.

In addition, it seems that new production line of Anthem's AVM90 will be the first product with full 48 Gbps ports (7+3), available from March 21st.
wow... Anthem is finally finished baking the cake?

Hopefully they hired some good chefs to finish that off. :p
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
wow... Anthem is finally finished baking the cake?
Hopefully they hired some good chefs to finish that off. :p
Everybody has been waiting for third gen HDMI 2.1 chips. It seems those have finally arrived. We will see once the speed of video signal and features are tested.

Also, Anthem is the first vendor to explicitly state that AVM90 supports both FreeSync and Gsync pass-through, which is great to see.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
This is worse than Denon's blunder with the adapter box!
I still say: Sound United fixed their mistake, and did not charge their owners for it. *shrugs Might not have been perfect, but nothing about that first round of 2.1 was: from anybody! :)
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
I still say: Sound United fixed their mistake, and did not charge their owners for it. *shrugs Might not have been perfect, but nothing about that first round of 2.1 was: from anybody! :)
That's what happens when AV companies cannot bother to ring a few phone numbers to get sample consoles and graphics cards to test AVRs before market release. So much for professionalism.

They literally had only 4 products to test in 2020, from Sony, Microsoft, Nvidia and AMD.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
That's what happens when AV companies cannot bother to ring a few phone numbers to get sample consoles and graphics cards to test AVRs before market release. So much for professionalism.

They literally had only 4 products to test in 2020, from Sony, Microsoft, Nvidia and AMD.
And of everybody...

Yamaha is the one wearing the pie.

What are the best and worst pies to be hit in the face with? - Water Cooler
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
My first impressions with the Yamaha RX-A6A (compared to an old RX-V2095) after playing with it for several hours:

Cheap plastic front plate instead of machined aluminum. Black gloss plastic on top as well, with factory scratches visible when using a flash light. Front touch panel instead of real mechanical buttons.
A blue-ish LCD instead of a night-vision-friendly orange LED display. From the User Guide p. 25: "Under the high or low temperature, the visibility of the character is sometimes deteriorated by the LCD characteristics. It is not a malfunction." Yeah, it is. The display should function uniformly well over the entire operating temperature of the AVR, 10-40 C. I wonder about the durability of this LCD.
Cryptic icons on the LCD -- no idea what they mean, need a manual to decode.
Speaker jacks spacing is non-standard, so double banana plugs (joined by a plastic bridge) used with the old AVR (and the speakers) do not fit. Had to order separate connectors and will have to rewire, PITA.
Volume control sucks. When first powered up, the AVR did not produce a sound even after increasing the volume by 50dB. Finally, some faint sound started to emerge, but only from the height-effect speakers. I thought this was cross-talk rather than a real amplification. I was afraid that if I cranked up the volume further and then started to change the sound settings, the volume would suddenly increase to a very high level and blast out my speakers (and hurt my eardrums in the process). The volume control is useless until about -25dB, where the configuration max. is 16.5dB, which leaves only about 40dB of the effective control range. The screen that "explains" sound level control is gobbledygook.
All speakers start as "small" and I do not have subwoofers (since my mains go down to about 24Hz with ease), so everything sounded "tinny tiny" out of the box, until I found the speaker configuration setting. That is where I also set the non-existent speakers to "none."
The Quick Start Guide mandates the installation of MusicCast on a smartphone. So, I thought, would I now have to keep my smartphone in my media room at all times to be able to control the AVR?? I went through this step, but for what reason I do not know, since I only have one zone and all source devices are in the same room, next to the AVR. The MusicCast app is confusing.
It turns out there is a separate 443-page User Guide (downloadable online), but it is not shipped with the AVR. No word about that in the materials that came in the box.
There is no diagram on how to assemble the star base and pole with the YPAO microphone. I kind of had to work backward, starting with mounting the mic on the pole (which can only be done one way) and then matching that assembly with the base which has a front direction marking as the mic does.
The YPAO calibration yielded varying results. After the first two runs, it complained about the polarity of the center channel speaker (which was wired correctly, red-to-red and black-to-black); sure, I get it that this could still result in the phase being 180 degrees off from what is "YPAO desired," but still. At that time, YPAO did not complain about any other issues. But after I switched the center channel connection and tested again, it started complaining about the phase of one of the surround speakers (which was, again, wired correctly). These surround speakers are bipolar to produce a wide sound field, so YPAO probably got confused. Anyway, after switching that surround wiring, it stopped complaining.
Despite the previous setting of some speakers to none, YPAO still uselessly goes through them, trying to emit test noise and tone sweeps.
The sound from my reference CD through the main speakers is fine in the mid- and high-range, but not as powerful at the low range as with the old AVR (which, BTW, is 24 years old and still works fine). I guess the power increased from 100W to 150W at the expense of instantaneous current supply to drive woofers. Pure Direct mode does not help much.
There are no balance or tone controls on this thing; there seem to be some digital settings but hidden pretty deeply in the menu structure.
Early one, I checked through the TV screen whether a firmware update was available (the unit came with v1.4) and it was not. To my surprise, about 20-30 minutes late, a screen for the firmware update to 2.0 suddenly appeared. It is possible, but rather unlikely, that Yamaha just posted v2.0 at that very time, so the check for firmware update probably malfunctioned (I used wired Ethernet, so no WiFi issues).
When I selected an immediate update, the unit sort of shut off and when I checked about 30 minutes later, the LCD said the update was successful and the unit should be "powered off." So I tried the remote control to "power it off," to no avail. Finally figured it out they probably meant "power cycle" and that seems to have worked.
My TV set has ARC but not eARC over HDMI. So, Dolby Digital 5.1 should work when streaming movies using apps on the TV. While it sounds like it might, there is no explicit indication on the LCD that such a program is being received (it says "Surround:AI"). There is no meaningful explanation in the User Guide; nor is there any mention of Dolby ProLogic (only a vague description of "decoding from a 2-channel source").
Streaming Dune from HBOMax, which is supposedly in Dolby Atmos, requires cranking up the volume a lot to hear anything. Now that may be a function of this streaming service, which is notorious for playing at much lower volume compared to Netflix or Prime Video (as if they were afraid of accidental digital-full-scale clipping). Streaming Expanse from the latter service (in DD) yielded much better results.
I hope to learn more about this model as I go along.
 
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clone1008

clone1008

Full Audioholic
Early one, I checked through the TV screen whether a firmware update was available (the unit came with v1.4) and it was not. To my surpise, about 20-30 minutes late, a screen for the firmware update to 2.0 suddenly appeared. It is possible, but rather unlikely, that Yamaha just posted v2.0 at that very time, so the check for firmware update probably malfunctioned (I used wired Ethernet, so no WiFi issues)
Ver. 2.0 huh? You might want to recheck that number. ;)

1647808575949.png
 
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OldAndSlowDev

OldAndSlowDev

Senior Audioholic
My first impressions with the Yamaha RX-A6A (compared to an old RX-V2095) after playing with it for several hours:

Cheap plastic front plate instead of machined aluminum. Black gloss plastic on top as well, with factory scratches visible when using a flash light. Front touch panel instead of real mechanical buttons.
A blue-ish LCD instead of a night-vision-friendly orange LED display. From the User Guide p. 25: "Under the high or low temperature, the visibility of the character is sometimes deteriorated by the LCD characteristics. It is not a malfunction." Yeah, it is. The display should function uniformly well over the entire operating temperature of the AVR, 10-40 C. I wonder about the durability of this LCD.
Cryptic icons on the LCD -- no idea what they mean, need a manual to decode.
Speaker jacks spacing is non-standard, so double banana plugs (joined by a plastic bridge) used with the old AVR (and the speakers) do not fit. Had to order separate connectors and will have to rewire, PINA.
Volume control sucks. When first powered up, the AVR did not produce a sound even after increasing the volume by 50dB. Finally, some faint sound started to emerge, but only from the height-effect speakers. I thought this was cross-talk rather than a real amplification. I was afraid that if I cranked up the volume further and then started to change the sound settings, the volume would suddenly increase to a very high level and blast out my speakers (and hurt my eardrums in the process). The volume control is useless until about -25dB, where the configuration max. is 16.5dB, which leaves only about 40dB of the effective control range. The screen that "explains" sound level control is gobbledygook.
All speakers start as "small" and I do not have subwoofers (since my mains go down to about 24Hz with ease), so everything sounded "tinny tiny" out of the box, until I found the speaker configuration setting. That is where I also set the non-existent speakers to "none."
The Quicks Start Guide mandates the installation of MusicCast on a smartphone. So, I thought, would I now have to keep my smartphone in my media room at all times to be able to control the AVR?? I went through this step, but for what reason I do not know, since I only have one zone and all source devices are in the same room, next to the AVR. The MusicCast app is confusing.
It turns out there is a separate 443-page User Guide (downloadable online), but it is not shipped with the AVR. No word about that in the materials that came in the box.
There is no diagram on how to assemble the star base and pole with the YPAO microphone. I kind of had to work backward, starting with mounting the mic on the pole (which can only be done one way) and then matching that assembly with the base which has a front direction marking as the mic does.
The YPAO calibration yielded varying results. After the first two runs, it complained about the polarity of the center channel speaker (which was wired correctly, red-to-red and black-to-black); sure, I get it that this could still result in the phase being 180 degrees off from what is "YPAO desired," but still. At that time, YPAO did not complain about any other issues. But after I switched the center channel connection and tested again, it started complaining about the phase of one of the surround speakers (which was, again, wired correctly). These surround speakers are bipolar to produce a wide sound field, so YPAO probably got confused. Anyway, after switching that surround wiring, it stopped complaining.
Despite the previous setting of some speakers to none, YPAO still uselessly goes through them, trying to emit test noise and tone sweeps.
The sound from my reference CD through the main speakers is fine in the mid- and high-range, but not as powerful at the low range as with the old AVR (which, BTW, is 24 years old and still works fine). I guess the power increased from 100W to 150W at the expense of instantaneous current supply to drive woofers. Pure Direct mode does not help much.
There are no balance or tone controls on this thing; there seem to be some digital settings but hidden pretty deeply in the menu structure.
Early one, I checked through the TV screen whether a firmware update was available (the unit came with v1.4) and it was not. To my surpise, about 20-30 minutes late, a screen for the firmware update to 2.0 suddenly appeared. It is possible, but rather unlikely, that Yamaha just posted v2.0 at that very time, so the check for firmware update probably malfunctioned (I used wired Ethernet, so no WiFi issues).
When I selected an immediate update, the unit sort of shut off and when I checked about 30 minutes later, the LCD said the update was successful and the unit should be "powered off." So I tried the remote control to "power it off," to no avail. Finally figured it out they probably meant "power cycle" and that seems to have worked.
My TV set has ARC but not eARC over HDMI. So, Dolby Digital 5.1 should work when streaming movies using apps on the TV. While it sounds like it might, there is no explicit indication on the LCD that such a program is being received (it says "Surround:AI"). There is no meaningful explanation in the User Guide; nor is there any mention of Dolby ProLogic (only a vague description of "decoding from a 2-channel source").
Streaming Dune from HBOMax, which is supposedly in Dolby Atmos, requires cranking up the volume a lot to hear anything. Now that may be a function of this streaming service, which is notorious for playing at much lower volume compared to Netflix or Prime Video (as if they were afraid of accidental digital-full-scale clipping). Streaming Expanse from the latter service (in DD) yielded much better results.
I hope to learn more about this model as I go along.
I first found "The volume control is useless until about -25dB, where the configuration max. is 16.5dB" really strange as I often use my amp to -50... then I reached that point I understood that was a troll "There is no diagram on how to assemble the star base and pole with the YPAO microphone."

Good one !

Very funny

 
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Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
I first found "The volume control is useless until about -25dB, where the configuration max. is 16.5dB" really strange as I often use my amp to -50... then I reached that point I understood that was a troll "There is no diagram on how to assemble the star base and pole with the YPAO microphone."

Good one !

Very funny

Don't know what you guys are doing, but the volume level is fine on my RX-A4A. I'm setting around 10ft away.
Screenshot_20220320-161205~2.png

IMG_20220320_161330237_HDR~2.jpg
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
I am listening to a nicely sound-engineered CD right now. To me, a usable volume starts at around -30dB to -27.5dB. I have not changed the factory settings for level control at all, so the max is still +16.5dB (I guess in electrical terms vs. some reference 0dB, not necessarily in acoustic terms, since speaker efficiency, distance and room conditions vary a lot). Is there some "mute -20dB" deeply embedded setting on this thing?
 
OldAndSlowDev

OldAndSlowDev

Senior Audioholic
I am listening to a nicely sound-engineered CD right now. To me, a usable volume starts at around -30dB to -27.5dB. I have not changed the factory settings for level control at all, so the max is still +16.5dB (I guess in electrical terms vs. some reference 0dB, not necessarily in acoustic terms, since speaker efficiency, distance and room conditions vary a lot). Is there some "mute -20dB" deeply embedded setting on this thing?
I like to listen to music between -30 and -22. I use level under -40 when watching videos (YouTube). At -20 I have around 75dB at 9 feet. When reaching 0, it’s more than 85dB. I never go above -18.
 
clone1008

clone1008

Full Audioholic
I am listening to a nicely sound-engineered CD right now. To me, a usable volume starts at around -30dB to -27.5dB. I have not changed the factory settings for level control at all, so the max is still +16.5dB (I guess in electrical terms vs. some reference 0dB, not necessarily in acoustic terms, since speaker efficiency, distance and room conditions vary a lot). Is there some "mute -20dB" deeply embedded setting on this thing?
I am sure Firmware 2.0 has messed your whole system up, it's probably bricked.
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
I like to listen to music between -30 and -22. I use level under -40 when watching videos (YouTube). At -20 I have around 75dB at 9 feet. When reaching 0, it’s more than 85dB. I never go above -18.
OK, good to know. So the listening range for you is about 22dB, i.e. -40dB --> -18dB. That proves my point: the first -90dB --> -30dB on the attenuation scale out of the box is virtually useless.

Also, I found a noticeable sound difference between the "2ch Stereo" and Pure Direct modes. If the source material is a 2-channel CD (from a Yamaha player connected to the RCA AUDIO 3 [3 Music] input), there are no additional channels to mix, so the sound should be virtually identical; from p. 135 of the User Guide:
"2ch Stereo Use this program to mix down multichannel sources to 2 channels. When multichannel signals are input, they are down mixed to 2 channels and output from the front speakers (this program does not utilize CINEMA DSP)."

To me, it is not: the DSP subdues treble and makes the bass "boomy," while cutting off the lowest frequencies. Does YPAO alter the frequency response in the "2ch Stereo" mode based on its measurement of speaker characteristics?
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
I am sure Firmware 2.0 has messed your whole system up, it's probably bricked.
I have just checked the system info in the settings and it says firmware is v1.59. But, as I distinctly recall, when the auto update screen unexpectedly popped up yesterday, it described an update to v2.0. Could be a bug. Anyway, the unit still seems to be functional.
 

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