1880's Barn Audio

[BMXTRIX]

Calculations suggest these speakers have limited bass, even with tuned box volume.

No doubt, this isn't for shaking the room. It's great audio for the space with good full-range coverage down to 80hz or so, but getting bass is generally expensive. You may be best bet with a well built set of up to 4 subwoofers, and likely a commercial amplifier to run it. You can also buy plate amps to run the subwoofers. Building speakers is NOT my forte. There are a lot of options out there and if you have the skills, there are DiY forums for subwoofer builds as well as a ton of subwoofers out there and amps to run them with plenty of power.

I do agree that if you are just looking for some basic audio out on the deck at lower volume, then a pair of outdoor speakers are a solid choice. Outdoor Speaker Depot offers quite a few choices for the money...
Like this 6.5" three way pair for under $110...

6.5" 3-Way Outdoor Patio Speaker Pair w/ Optional 70V Tap, IP54 Rated, White or Black AP640

Check out the deal on 6.5" 3-Way Outdoor Patio Speaker Pair w/ Optional 70V Tap, IP54 Rated, White or Black AP640 at Outdoor Speaker Depot

www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com

 

[GGerg1186]

Well, I just paid for a SpeakerCraft BB1235 amp, $270 shipped. I also picked up 12 sheets 3/4" mds for boxes for $60. Will order some speakers this week.

Now to spec out some subs...
Is the rotel rb1050 sufficient for 4 subs?

 

[BMXTRIX]

Well, I just paid for a SpeakerCraft BB1235 amp, $270 shipped. I also picked up 12 sheets 3/4" mds for boxes for $60. Will order some speakers this week.

Now to spec out some subs...
Is the rotel rb1050 sufficient for 4 subs?

The Rotel RB1050 is really not sufficient for one quality subwoofer. Most subwoofer plate amps run at a couple hundred watts, but quality ones run a ton more power through them.

In most things, I think you can get a lot of bang for not a lot of money. Just a few hundred bucks before you start getting into the diminishing returns territory. Subwoofers are mostly not like that. If you get a $2,000 single subwoofer, it produce a LOT more bass than a $500 subwoofer. Even an untrained ear will be able to hear and feel the difference between the two.

So, you will want an amplifier with power to spare. Maybe a crown amp with 500+ watts per channel.

A couple of these would do well, or a single one, then add one in the future. These amps are 2ohm stable, which is good for running a couple of subs on each channel, so 4 subs on a single amplifier. In the future, add a second amp if you want more power to things.

This is JUST an example. I searched for crown amplifiers under $200, and there is a LOT of options, so look up how much power can be delivered by any model you are considering, or ask here for our thoughts on any specific model. But, on a budget, this is DEFINITELY the direction I would go.

Crown CDI DriveCore 2x600-Watt Power Amplifier CDI2X600 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Crown CDI DriveCore 2x600-Watt Power Amplifier CDI2X600 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[GGerg1186]

The Rotel RB1050 is really not sufficient for one quality subwoofer. Most subwoofer plate amps run at a couple hundred watts, but quality ones run a ton more power through them.

Appreciate the analysis, but roof thumping bass is going to have to wait. Budget for this year is depleted.

Question on speaker boxes, I can build the speaker boxes into the roof rafters, or I can build independent boxes and mount them to the roof. Do I want any control of speaker orientation? See picture for planned speaker locations.

Right now I plan to use channels 1-8 of the BB1235 in the barn to make 4 zones, with a left and a right for each zone. Channel 9-10 will operate two exterior speakers for the deck. Not sure if I will need to have an independent volume control for the deck, but it is likely.

 

[BMXTRIX]

For subwoofers, you just want to build for the future, or simply hold off for the moment until funds become available then grow into your goals rather than going with a crap solution now which will just waste money. Not sure what speakers you are using for the subs, but good subs aren't really inexpensive and some DSP ahead of them is pretty important as is box design. Seems like you are confident with your box building capabilities, so that should be good, but I am the wrong person to ask about this. I am not a back box builder or speaker builder, so that may be best asked over at Parts Express. There is a lot of building knowledge there.

I think that there is little need for speaker orientation capability after the fact on the finished product. This isn't home theater and you are looking for room filling audio, not pristine perfection as some theater enthusiasts are after. You should be good with fixed location boxes. If it is easy enough to add some adjustments to the speakers, then by all means, please do so.

Be aware that you can add volume controls to your outdoor speakers easily enough. On the amp itself, you have individual channel control if you want to make adjustments.

I would probably get a volume control for outside adjustment. I think I might make adjustments to the amp for interior volume control for the short term. I might add zoned volume controls later on for the main space.

 

[highfigh]

The Rotel RB1050 is really not sufficient for one quality subwoofer. Most subwoofer plate amps run at a couple hundred watts, but quality ones run a ton more power through them.

In most things, I think you can get a lot of bang for not a lot of money. Just a few hundred bucks before you start getting into the diminishing returns territory. Subwoofers are mostly not like that. If you get a $2,000 single subwoofer, it produce a LOT more bass than a $500 subwoofer. Even an untrained ear will be able to hear and feel the difference between the two.

So, you will want an amplifier with power to spare. Maybe a crown amp with 500+ watts per channel.

A couple of these would do well, or a single one, then add one in the future. These amps are 2ohm stable, which is good for running a couple of subs on each channel, so 4 subs on a single amplifier. In the future, add a second amp if you want more power to things.

This is JUST an example. I searched for crown amplifiers under $200, and there is a LOT of options, so look up how much power can be delivered by any model you are considering, or ask here for our thoughts on any specific model. But, on a budget, this is DEFINITELY the direction I would go.

Crown CDI DriveCore 2x600-Watt Power Amplifier CDI2X600 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Crown CDI DriveCore 2x600-Watt Power Amplifier CDI2X600 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

The Rotel should be bridgeable, but the signal for one channel would need to be inverted before it reaches the amplifier input.

I saw a listing on FB marketplace by someone who has a stack of Crown 24x6 amplifiers, asking $350 each (shipping is extra).

file:///C:/Users/USER/Downloads/MA24x6-Datasheet-134167%20(1).pdf

 

[highfigh]

Appreciate the analysis, but roof thumping bass is going to have to wait. Budget for this year is depleted.

Question on speaker boxes, I can build the speaker boxes into the roof rafters, or I can build independent boxes and mount them to the roof. Do I want any control of speaker orientation? See picture for planned speaker locations.

View attachment 54378

Right now I plan to use channels 1-8 of the BB1235 in the barn to make 4 zones, with a left and a right for each zone. Channel 9-10 will operate two exterior speakers for the deck. Not sure if I will need to have an independent volume control for the deck, but it is likely.

What state do you call home?

 

[GGerg1186]

What state do you call home?

Dubuque, IA

 

[highfigh]

Dubuque, IA

I saw a QSC amp on Craig's List in your area- that's another brand that makes great equipment- it's in Cedar Rapids, asking $325.

 

[GGerg1186]

Finally got a chance to hook up the SpeakerCraft BB1235 to my pioneer speaker cabinets. I also unboxed one of my Monoprice speakers. Tested all 12 channels on the BB1235 amp. Bridged three of the channels and ran three speakers at full volume. I think I will want to buy a second BB1235 at some point and bridge all of the channels. Decent volume unbridged at 35W, plenty loud bridged at 60W. Having a second amp will also allow me to go back to 35W if one of the amps fails for some reason. Speakers are rated at 100W so plenty capable there.

Now it's time to run 600'-700' of speaker wire and build eight speaker boxes. Plan to do that Saturday. I expect the distributed sound power of 10 speakers at 35W to be plenty. Will add subs later this year or early next year.

 

[GGerg1186]

Progress on speaker boxes this week.

 

[Shanman]

That barn is killer! You're gonna need a PA system man...

 

[GGerg1186]

That barn is killer! You're gonna need a PA system man...

Someday when I have the spare cash, maybe.

 

[Eppie]

Thanks for the update. It's fun to watch the process so looking forward to more updates.

 

[GGerg1186]

YouTube clip of audio

First play on six speakers, 35w per channel, I need 100' more wire to connect the remaining two speakers. Plenty loud, good sound.

Going to bridge the twelve into six and see what I think.

Then I will have to save up for the bass.

 

[GGerg1186]

Hmmm, my 12 channel 35w per channel amplifier can bridge channels to become a 6 channel 60w per channel amplifier. My speakers are rated for 100w continuous so I bridged and cranked the volume, sounded great until I fried the amp power supply cord

 

[GGerg1186]

Unbridged I could go full volume with Metallicas Fade to Black on the monoprice speakers without the red lights appearing on the 1235amp. Above 3/4 volume the sound got a bit distorted. 3/4 was plenty loud, certainly louder than I would want while playing pool.

Bridged I got to about sixty percent volume before red lights started appearing on the 1235 amp. Definitely louder than unbridged. Sounded great before the amp power supply cord failed.

I think 35w will be plenty. Next step will cost money: bass. That will have to wait until the kids finish college.

 

[GGerg1186]

Think this 14ga cord will handle the juice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JT0DG94/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YVNQA9MN6GHV0DH00W9M?psc=1

 

[Eppie]

Think this 14ga cord will handle the juice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JT0DG94/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YVNQA9MN6GHV0DH00W9M?psc=1

Yeah, changing from a 10A to 15A cord may be a good idea provided the proper fuses are installed.

 

[BMXTRIX]

That's crazy that the power cord failed like that. It is VERY unusual to have a 2-prong to IEC power cord other than the official power cord that came with the amplifier itself. If you look here, you will see that the power cord you have should be able to handle about 1,000 watts of power safely...

Monoprice Power Cord - NEMA 5-15P to IEC 60320 C13, 18AWG, 10A/1250W, 125V, 3-Prong, Black, 3ft - Monoprice.com

The North America NEMA® 5‑15 plug to IEC 60320 C13 female connector power cord works with most PCs, monitors, scanners, and printers.Connect your computer, monitor, power adapter, or other d

www.monoprice.com

CLEARLY - that's not the case. I expect you could reach out to SpeakerCraft and you SHOULD reach out to them and let them know the power cord you had with your product failed. Not only may they send you a new one, but they SHOULD send you a new one. Hopefully of a higher gauge (thickness). But, for safety, I would still pick up a 14 gauge IEC power cable. Most IEC cables are three prong, but they will still work just fine with your amp.

I'm a fan of Monoprice products, so I use them for my cabling most of the time over Amazon, but purchase where you would like...
14 gauge IEC power cable:

Monoprice Power Cord - NEMA 5-15P to IEC 60320 C13, 14AWG, 15A/1875W, 3-Prong, Black, 6ft - Monoprice.com

The North America NEMA® 5‑15 plug to IEC 60320 C13 female connector power cord works with most PCs, monitors, scanners, and printers.Connect your computer, monitor, power adapter, or other d

www.monoprice.com