Yamaha A-s801 impedance

[lovinthehd]

I try lol, I subscribe to Tidal HiFi and stream through a bluesound node 2i via coax to my 801. This is a whole new world for me

Like the bullshit that mqa is Lots of ways to stream with various devices and the apps for those devices, some variance in capability, but often not that much

 

[gene]

 

[PENG]

Like the bullshit that mqa is Lots of ways to stream with various devices and the apps for those devices, some variance in capability, but often not that much

MQA, Bose, Dragon fly DAC, amps tuned by ears warm sound musical sound etc.etc..etc.., if you find a good way (doesn't need to be true) to tell why the buyers would get great sound, they will buy it, truth doesn't matter...

Example: Even on our great AH site, if you say enough time why THD+N has no or little correlation to "sound quality", people will believe in "hearing is believing", not "seeing is believing".

 

[Obxdrew]

Thank you Gene, but it doesn't seem to answer my question 100%. My question is is when I use the bi wire feature on the Yamaha 801 running a plus b channel to each speaker (Klipsch RF7 Mark iii) where do I keep the switch

 

[PENG]

Thank you Gene, but it doesn't seem to answer my question 100%. My question is is when I use the bi wire feature on the Yamaha 801 running a plus b channel to each speaker (Klipsch RF7 Mark iii) where do I keep the switch

I can answer your question 100%. That is, if you are bi-wiring one set of your RF7 MkIII, you can leave the impedance switch in "High", just remember to pull the jumpers.

The two sets of terminals are there for convenience. When you select A+B, it simply connect the A and B binding posts together, that is, red to red and black to black.

If you are using two sets of RF7 MkIII one connected to A, and the other to B, then when A+B are selected, you will have to set the switch to "Low" because the combined impedance of two sets of the 8 Ohm RF7 is 4 Ohms.

However, as Gene responded, if you set it to Low, you will be effectively limiting the power output of the amp, so it is up to you. For me, I would find out what my actual power need is, and then make an informed decision. Yamaha, however would have no choice, but to tell you to switch it to "Low" for regulatory and/or liability reasons.

Again, for bi-wiring, with just one set of speakers per channel, there is no need to worry, leave the switch in the default 8 Ohm position. I hope that's clear.

 

[gene]

Thank you Gene, but it doesn't seem to answer my question 100%. My question is is when I use the bi wire feature on the Yamaha 801 running a plus b channel to each speaker (Klipsch RF7 Mark iii) where do I keep the switch

I honestly don't know how to definitely explain this with better clarity. The switch has one purpose: to limit power output to meet UL heat dissipation requirements for a 4 ohm rating. The low setting offers no magical properties to improve sound or better match a low impedance speaker with the amp. It limits power FOR ALL loads.

 

[Trebdp83]

They really should change it from 4 ohm or 6/8 ohm to low or high heat. For Denon, bake or broil.

 

[lovinthehd]

I can answer your question 100%. That is, if you are bi-wiring one set of your RF7 MkIII, you can leave the impedance switch in "High", just remember to pull the jumpers.

The two sets of terminals are there for convenience. When you select A+B, it simply connect the A and B binding posts together, that is, red to red and black to black.

If you are using two sets of RF7 MkIII one connected to A, and the other to B, then when A+B are selected, you will have to set the switch to "Low" because the combined impedance of two sets of the 8 Ohm RF7 is 4 Ohms.

However, as Gene responded, if you set it to Low, you will be effectively limiting the power output of the amp, so it is up to you. For me, I would find out what my actual power need is, and then make an informed decision. Yamaha, however would have no choice, but to tell you to switch it to "Low" for regulatory and/or liability reasons.

Again, for bi-wiring, with just one set of speakers per channel, there is no need to worry, leave the switch in the default 8 Ohm position. I hope that's clear.

Except @Obxdrew is trying passive bi-amping rather than buy-wiring it seems by using both sets of speaker terminals on the integrated amp.....and if so here's the AH article on that subject just in case https://www.audioholics.com/frequent-questions/the-difference-between-biamping-vs-biwiring

 

[PENG]

They really should change it from 4 ohm or 6/8 ohm to low or high heat. For Denon, bake or broil.

Agreed, but I still don't understand why people seem to focus on Denon and more forgiving on Marantz, that is actually worse, slightly.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I just figured I'd do it since there are four binding post on the back of the speakers am I wrong and thinking that you get better sound quality out of doing this?

I would not bi-wire or passive bi-amp.

But I would “active” bi-amp only those dual 10” Woofers using a subwoofer amp with High-pass Filter set to 30Hz/24dB per octave slope.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

They really should change it from 4 ohm or 6/8 ohm to low or high heat. For Denon, bake or broil.

Oh, that‘s just cold. I mean harsh.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Quick update for those that offered advice. Yamaha A-S801 Amp arrived. Left impedance in factory high position. Connected both sets of floor standing speakers. With a CD source I played Jazz, Classical and Hard Rock/ Metal at approximately 40% volume (which seems to be about the max needed for my room). The amp never flinched, not a whisper of distortion and cool as a breeze. Not even a little warm. It's on it's own shelf of my rack with full clearance. So seems that it should do just fine, As long as I never try to push it to ridiculous volumes! Sounds very clean and amazing as well.

Thanks again for the help!

Congrats on the new Yamaha. Enjoy!

 

[PENG]

@gene So power at the rail/rail's (Voltage} is reduced. by doing so, less heat output in oder to keep, Amp, AVR from going into Protect mode. So that is the only purpose for that impedance switch. It's a Heat switch AH members! for that purpose only. For Gene to come in here take time to school up AH members is why I signed up on his website. This isn't rocket science AH members, but if anyone would like to challenge Gene, my moneys on Gene, I'll supply the Popcorn.

Save your popcorn for something else as no one can challenge Gene on this!
Having said that, I can understand why ObxDrew asked the question, take a look of the back label:

You can see that Yamaha did not bother to differentiate the difference between A+B for running two pairs of 8 Ohm speakers and just one pair, but use A+B only to bi-wire. It is not an issue for people who understand Gene's explanation and would exercise care, self discipline when using 4 Ohm speakers or two pairs of 8 Ohm speakers in parallel. It is not so clear for someone who use A+B just to bi-wire one single pair of 8 Ohm speakers and want to follow the Yamaha's recommendations regardless, for their own reasons, even though they understand output will be limited as explained clearly by Gene.

Yamaha did make that clear distinction in the user's manual, but not so on the back of the unit.

 

[Trebdp83]

Agreed, but I still don't understand why people seem to focus on Denon and more forgiving on Marantz, that is actually worse, slightly.

I’ve had a few Denons, but no Marantz models so I didn’t pick on them. I’m an a$$hole, but I’m not a gossip. I’ve got criticisms for the Onkyos and Yamahas I’ve had as well but the heat issue with my Denons is the one that annoyed me the most.

 

[PENG]

Sorry to wake @M Code up on this, but I am really curious about why Yamaha appeared to have eliminated the preouts (leaving just the Subwoofer one) as an after thought. They were shown in the service manual, but not in the Owner's manual and the unit itself, what happened?

 

[highfigh]

I would like some equipment to have a .wav file that's activated when pressing some buttons with "DON'T TOUCH THAT, YOU'LL KILL US ALL!!!!!!!!!" or the sound of a mother saying "Fine. You can do that, but don't come running to me if it doesn't work".

 

[PENG]

I’ve had a few Denons, but no Marantz models so I didn’t pick on them. I’m an a$$hole, but I’m not a gossip. I’ve got criticisms for the Onkyos and Yamahas I’ve had as well but the heat issue with my Denons is the one that annoyed me the most.

And I wasn't picking on you. Just curious about the possible reasons.. HDAMs add heat, but to house them, Marantz's enclosures are slightly larger so I guess they may or may not run warmer, all else being equal, and people may think warm sound means warmer running, so expected anyway. I have both brands and I always use external fans regardless. Yamaha's enclosures are quite a bit larger and they might have done a better job with the bias level, and/or a little lower rail voltage.

 

[highfigh]

I’ve had a few Denons, but no Marantz models so I didn’t pick on them. I’m an a$$hole, but I’m not a gossip. I’ve got criticisms for the Onkyos and Yamahas I’ve had as well but the heat issue with my Denons is the one that annoyed me the most.

Why were you annoyed by an AVR that ran hot? It's not bad or good, it's just a characteristic of the piece. It needs to dissipate heat- how it does that is immaterial,. but it needs to happen. That means it needs more space around it or some kind of active cooling. If it performs better than most, it's a good choice; if it performs worse, it's a bad choice. They must have chosen those output transistors for a reason.

 

[highfigh]

And I wasn't picking on you. Just curious about the reason.. HDAMs add heat, but to house them, Marantz's enclosures are slightly larger so I guess they may or may not run warmer, all else being equal, and people may think warm sound means warmer running, so expected anyway. I have both brands and I always use external fans regardless. Yamaha's enclosures are quite a bit larger and they might have done a better job with the bias level, and/or a little lower rail voltage.

"Done a better job"? The bias needed is determined by the output transistors- there's no "did a better/worse job". They need what they need. Lower rail voltage can mean the output will be lower, too- it's more about current and efficiency.

 

[TankTop5]

Like the bullshit that mqa is Lots of ways to stream with various devices and the apps for those devices, some variance in capability, but often not that much

I read a LOT about hifi and I still don’t understand the MQA issue. I use Tidal but dropped the Masters subscription so it’s moot but I’m still curious what the issue is. I did like the MQA version of some music on Tidal but mostly I didn’t notice anything.

Can you give me a one paragraph answer using small words on the issue of MQA?

Jay-Z sold Tidal so hopefully it stoops trying to tell me what to listen to and comes up with a better algorithm for suggesting music.