Well man I’m not here to debate, you are apparently more than knowledgeable.
my question would just lead to what do you think the best cables would be for my Elac Unifi 2.0?
I’m not talking about Home Depot, right now I’m just purchasing temporary. That’s why I’m going cheap. Only currently ordered 2 bookshelves.
Later I wish to buy whatever it is that will be precisely what the speakers need.
Crossover frequency: 200 / 2,000 Hz
Frequency response: 46 to 35,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 85 dB at 2.83 v/1m
Recommended amplifier power: 40 to 140 wpc
Peak power handling: 140 wpc
Nominal impedance: 6 Ω
On the graph hits 5.6 ohms
Towers
Crossover frequency: 200 / 2,000 Hz
Frequency response: 42 to 35,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 85 dB at 2.83 v/1m
Recommended amplifier power: 40 to 140 wpc
Peak power handling: 140 wpc
Nominal impedance: 6 Ω
Believe those are both the same, and the towers nominal impedance is 5.6 lowest.
I'm going to guess that a few million miles of non-audiophile speaker cable has been used for installations over the decades and nobody ever complained about the sound quality because A) it works just fine and B) there's no easy way to compare it with something else.
Most people would never recognize the brand names of speaker wire used in commercial/industrial installations and many of those systems are designed by actual engineers. Try telling them about special wire and they'll look at you like you're on TV and they're a dog- they see and hear something but don't understand it because what is being described has no basis in science. If it needs shielding, it's best to move it and if not, leave it be. Necessary wire gauge is determined by knowing the power output, speaker impedance, ambient temperature, distance and really, that's about all that matters. Feelings about how it sounds don't matter. Rule of thumb- if the speakers are in a normal sized house and especially if they're in the same room as the amplifier (or near it), 14ga is probably heavier than necessary but it will work fine. 12ga is overkill, but it makes people feel they have hedged their bets. Heavier than that and if it's some esoteric brand, money is being wasted. Wire splices? Just fine, if they're done right. Seriously.
Don't overthink this- you're not using extremely expensive equipment and a huge amplifier with power hungry speakers in a room that has been acoustically treated by respected professionals.
Not long after I started selling audio equipment, the magazines started filling peoples' heads with BS, specs they didn't understand and marketing buzzwords. People would come in and ask about an amplifier's slew rate, even though it might have been a cheap 20W receiver and they didn't have a clue what it is or why it might be important. The response to them was usually "How does it sound?" and "Can you hear the difference between these receivers?". Some would come in with their new copy of Audio, Consumer Reports or Stereo Review under their arm and ask "How many Amps (Amperes) does this put out?" as if we needed to pass their test. When we would do a rough calculation and tell them it would be around 2.5 Amperes, they were confused and would then say "But this says it's 100 Watts!" and we would tell them that Watts aren't the same as Amperes.
Critical listening is learned- we don't spring from the womb knowing what to listen for but we should accept that not everything makes enough difference that an exhorbitant cost is justified. If someone wants to justify it and it won't cause financial harm, they can go ahead, but I have a problem when they almost demand that others hear the same or try to make others feel like they're lepers if they can't.
Listen to the damn music!
