What New Stuff Have You Bought? If You Care To Share Thead! :)

panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
What issue were you having?

I think that next year might be a good time for me to build a new pc. Got the tuner in today. All hooked up, waiting for the control module to be released from the previous users account so I can start datalogging runs and see where I want to end up boost wise.
The way my motherboard was designed my m.2 ssd was taking pcie lanes from the primary slot. Not gonna work if I fork out the cash for a fancy new rtx 3080
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
The way my motherboard was designed my m.2 ssd was taking pcie lanes from the primary slot. Not gonna work if I fork out the cash for a fancy new rtx 3080
Oh, you fancy! I'm still rocking my I5-4670K with no m.2 slots and a GTX 970!
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
Got my tuner today and installed it. Running a map with an extra 5.5 PSI boost right now. Logs all look good, so may try going up to an extra 6 PSI tomorrow.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
Oh, you fancy! I'm still rocking my I5-4670K with no m.2 slots and a GTX 970!
Funny, I just upgraded from an i5 4690k and kept my RTX 2070. I had a 970, but when I got my 3440x1440 monitor it couldn't keep up anymore.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
Got my tuner today and installed it. Running a map with an extra 5.5 PSI boost right now. Logs all look good, so may try going up to an extra 6 PSI tomorrow.
It always amazes me how different gas vs diesel motors are. My stock turbo that has no tuning puts out ~32 PSI. I think it will go close to 40 once I get my tunes.
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
It always amazes me how different gas vs diesel motors are. My stock turbo that has no tuning puts out ~32 PSI. I think it will go close to 40 once I get my tunes.
My car has two small turbos, they run around 10 PSI stock if I remember right. I know the redsport versions run around 14.5 PSI. They basically tuned them to be most efficient and effective from 2500-5000 rpm. Stillen has a good article on them:

https://blog.stillen.com/2016/12/to-infiniti-beyond-analyzing-the-vr30ddtt-turbos/

The basic takeaway is that you should keep it under 18 PSI, after that you're just making more heat than anything else.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
My car has two small turbos, they run around 10 PSI stock if I remember right. I know the redsport versions run around 14.5 PSI. They basically tuned them to be most efficient and effective from 2500-5000 rpm. Stillen has a good article on them:

https://blog.stillen.com/2016/12/to-infiniti-beyond-analyzing-the-vr30ddtt-turbos/

The basic takeaway is that you should keep it under 18 PSI, after that you're just making more heat than anything else.
Interesting read. I retesting that they use an air-water intercooler in a stock vehicle. Wonder if water-meth injection. I know diesels love that stuff, but it is a pain to deal with. Or, it can be.
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
Interesting read. I retesting that they use an air-water intercooler in a stock vehicle. Wonder if water-meth injection. I know diesels love that stuff, but it is a pain to deal with. Or, it can be.
Yeah, there are after market WMI kits available for it. I don't want to get too crazy with it though, it's got enough power for me. I'll probably work on the handling a bit next, I think some stiffer sway bars would do wonders for it.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
Yeah, there are after market WMI kits available for it. I don't want to get too crazy with it though, it's got enough power for me. I'll probably work on the handling a bit next, I think some stiffer sway bars would do wonders for it.
Suspension is the most overlooked aspect of a lot of cars.
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
I bought these at my local drug store for 6.99 each Cdn. I love the Expendables...

Jack Reacher: Never Go Back Blu-ray Release Date January 31, 2017 (Blu-ray  + DVD + Digital HD)

The Expendables Blu-ray Release Date November 23, 2010 (Blu-ray + DVD +  Digital HD)
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Yeah, I usually go for improved handling first, but the price was too good on this to pass up!
Brake upgrades are usually my first choice. And, I NEVER skimp out on tires!

All the power, speed, handling in the world is nice, but you better be able to stop when you need to!

Drilled/Slotted rotors, performance pads, braided brake lines, will do wonders! I have found I can get this stuff delivered to my door from rockauto.com, and not really much more cost than the economy crap from the national auto parts stores. And, the performance parts have a longer life too, so you really come out ahead on the $ in the long run.

And, brake upgrades are a big driver to start looking at bigger rims, to handle bigger rotors.

EDIT: I treat my mountain bikes the same. Bigger rotors, Shimano Hydraulic Brakes, tires run from ~$50 to $100 a pop!
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
Car performance parts, Blurays or new A/V blocks - all much cooler (and mostly cheaper) than replacing my 15yo AC :( which I am starting to plan for - comparing installers and my options... sh1t is just starting at 4k and quickly goes much higher ( central AC)
 
adk highlander

adk highlander

Sith Lord
Car performance parts, Blurays or new A/V blocks - all much cooler (and mostly cheaper) than replacing my 15yo AC :( which I am starting to plan for - comparing installers and my options... sh1t is just starting at 4k and quickly goes much higher ( central AC)
Agreed. I am in process of getting quotes to replace our roof before winter. Good luck.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Brake upgrades are usually my first choice. And, I NEVER skimp out on tires!

All the power, speed, handling in the world is nice, but you better be able to stop when you need to!

Drilled/Slotted rotors, performance pads, braided brake lines, will do wonders! I have found I can get this stuff delivered to my door from rockauto.com, and not really much more cost than the economy crap from the national auto parts stores. And, the performance parts have a longer life too, so you really come out ahead on the $ in the long run.

And, brake upgrades are a big driver to start looking at bigger rims, to handle bigger rotors.

EDIT: I treat my mountain bikes the same. Bigger rotors, Shimano Hydraulic Brakes, tires run from ~$50 to $100 a pop!
I thought it a little bit of a reckless splurge at the time, but I never could get over the improvement from replacing the brake lines with braided stainless steel on my Yamaha Seca 650 and (later) XS1100 motorcycles! Ever since having those, any other brakes felt spongy as the lines balloon under hydraulic pressure! The feedback feel is excellent!
I'd consider this the priority upgrade for any motorcycle!
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
I thought it a little bit of a reckless splurge at the time, but I never could get over the improvement from replacing the brake lines with braided stainless steel on my Yamaha Seca 650 and (later) XS1100 motorcycles! Ever since having those, any other brakes felt spongy as the lines balloon under hydraulic pressure! The feedback feel is excellent!
I'd consider this the priority upgrade for any motorcycle!
I did a similar clutch upgrade when I had my 1985 300zx.

So, hydraulic clutch....but there is a little expansion chamber/damper just before the slave cylinder that is specifically there to soften the feedback. The clutch always felt mushy, no feedback, didn't really engage until it was near the end of travel at the firewall, just a poor design for a sports car!

A little trip to the Z Clinic, talking to them, and bought some parts. "Yeah, that's how these stock clutches feel, and it sucks".

The fix is remove the stock bent hydro line, install a braided line with banjo bolts, bypass the damper.

MUCH better feel, feedback, performance after that.
 
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