RBH Sound Owner's Thread

[Erod]

I would guess the best Atmos speakers to pair with your RBH SV-661R Speakers would be RBH Atmos speakers.

Different tweeters and they're not aimable. I don't think they have the same woofer cone material either.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

What are the best Atmos in ceiling speakers to pair with the SV-661R speakers?

I'm thinking perhaps the Martin Logan Electromotion IC speakers with their directional aluminum woofers and AMTs?

A lot of ceiling speakers have Pivoting (Swivel) Tweeter (Aluminum). Woofer is also Aluminum.

1" Tweeter, 6.5" Woofer, 25 YEARS Warranty

1" Tweeter, 8" Woofer, 25 YEAR Warranty:

To me it's more important to match all my speakers. If I had all ML bed speakers, I would get all ML ceiling speakers. If I had RBH bed speakers, I would get all RBH ceiling speakers.

I also like bigger drivers for more dynamics and power handling, but I think at least 6.5" woofers should do. Driver material is also important to me - Aluminum Tweeter and Aluminum Woofer.

Warranty: Monitor Audio Lifetime, RBH 25YR, Martin Logan 5YR, Definitive Technology 5YR.

 

[Movie2099]

Different tweeters and they're not aimable. I don't think they have the same woofer cone material either.

SI-615

Signature 2-way in-ceiling speaker, Visage frameless design • 6.5" silver aluminum woofers; pivoting ring radiator tweeter • sound contour switches (PRICE PER SINGLE)

rbhsound.com

 

[shadyJ]

Supposedly swivel tweeters don't really make much of a difference. I think it could only affect higher frequencies where dome tweeters start to beam.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Supposedly swivel tweeters don't really make much of a difference. I think it could only affect higher frequencies where dome tweeters start to beam.

Yeah, I don't think swivel/pivoting/aim-able tweeters make a significant difference especially just for Atmos Ceiling SURROUND sound.

 

[Erod]

A lot of ceiling speakers have Pivoting (Swivel) Tweeter (Aluminum). Woofer is also Aluminum.

1" Tweeter, 6.5" Woofer, 25 YEARS Warranty

1" Tweeter, 8" Woofer, 25 YEAR Warranty:

To me it's more important to match all my speakers. If I had all ML bed speakers, I would get all ML ceiling speakers. If I had RBH bed speakers, I would get all RBH ceiling speakers.

I also like bigger drivers for more dynamics and power handling, but I think at least 6.5" woofers should do. Driver material is also important to me - Aluminum Tweeter and Aluminum Woofer.

Warranty: Monitor Audio Lifetime, RBH 25YR, Martin Logan 5YR, Definitive Technology 5YR.

I agree with that in general, but RBH's tweeters don't match. The ML speakers at least have an AMT like my RBH speakers do.

My RBH speakers have beryllium woofers and Aurum Cantus AMT tweeters.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I agree with that in general, but RBH's tweeters don't match. The ML speakers at least have an AMT like my RBH speakers do.

My RBH speakers have beryllium woofers and Aurum Cantus AMT tweeters.

There is no right or wrong here, just difference of opinions.

Some choose to match driver types, some choose to match brands/engineers.

Some might feel that all the speakers of the same brand were designed by the same engineers. For RBH, all the speakers are designed by Shane Rich. So all of Shane’s speakers are made to sound the way of “RBH”, regardless of Driver Types.

Just because 2 speakers have the same driver types does not guarantee they will sound the same because they were designed by 2 different engineers.

 

[shadyJ]

I agree with that in general, but RBH's tweeters don't match. The ML speakers at least have an AMT like my RBH speakers do.

My RBH speakers have beryllium woofers and Aurum Cantus AMT tweeters.

I think too much attention is being paid to tweeter type rather than overall performance. It wouldn't be difficult to design a surround sound speaker system where the speakers will all sound similar even though they are using different tweeters types. What is much more important than the drivers themselves is how the drivers are being used. Speakers that bear a similar response will sound similar, even if the driver types are very different.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I think too much attention is being paid to tweeter type rather than overall performance.

Bingo. It seems a lot of people get so wrapped up in the driver materials and types they might overlook the important part about design, implementation, and measurements.

Bias gets amped up.

Diamond and Beryllium especially sound so juicy regardless.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I just got the INSIDER scoop that RBH should be releasing the new line of speakers to succeed the current SV series very soon - hopefully a month or 2.

They should have the production samples in a few weeks. If everything tests perfectly, then it goes into FULL PRODUCTION mode!

 

[ParleyW]

Woh!!! That IS good news! Whoever did their cabinets for their SV series did absolutely top notch work, so I don't mean to detract from that, but if they can pull manufacturing for that in-house to Layton, then that's awesome! I know that disruptions in their supply chain has been a point of frustration for them in the past here and there, and I'm sure COVID has to have strained that even further. Hope the change works out great for them! They have some awesome crew working over there, so I'm sure they'll do an outstanding job.

I’ve been to the holy land (RBH shop) and have seen the next generation of cabinets. Their even more overbuilt than prior versions. I’ve never seen a more heavily braced cabinet. Their satin black monolith is so beautiful, and frankly.....dead sexy. I want a pair so bad but will try to endure with my SX-T2/R somehow.

 

[ParleyW]

Hey I have a noob question let's say I want to use a crown xls amp I already own several they state they have a frequency range of 20hz-20khz but the RBH subs I plan to get play down to 17hz+-3db plus with in room they go much lower

So how do you pull that off if that only responds to frequencies down to 20hz wouldn't you need an amp that plays lower then that so you can capture that 17hz scene in Pulse for example?

This is probably a very stupid noob question but I've always been curious about that

I’m currently using a crown XLS-1502 to drive my Rosewood RBH 12” reference with great results. That being said, my still #1 fav sub amp is the RBH SA-400. It provides the best quality low end on my twin reference 1010 and my 12”, but it’s still fun to mess around with different gear.

As a test, I used a test track on Sheffield cd that starts at 10hz. The cabinets are not tuned for it, but the RBH woofers jump out of the frame. My pair do this with equal vigor with both the SA and Crown amp. I don’t think 18 to 23hz is discernible to anyone but your neighbors. The wavelength is to long.

 

[ParleyW]

Ah, I'm slowly getting guys to "convert" to EXTERNALLY powered subs.

I posted earlier somewhere that I helped a guy "convert" from his big SVS sub to dual SVT towers (with SV-1212NR). He decided to go with dual SA-500DSP, instead of the Yamaha PX3/PX5. But anyway, his giant SVS sub's internal amp FAILED TWICE in a couple of years. So he decided to sell the SVS and is now converted to externally powered subs.

The RBH SA-500DSP is the sub amp I am using for my SVT towers.

But I think the Yamaha PX3 or PX5 (depending on how much power you desire) would do the trick. I spent some time with the PX3. It has plenty of XO and PEQ settings. There's a thread I started on the Yamaha PX3 somewhere.The PX3 is 2Ch and you can do XO/PEQ for each channel independently if you want (or set them exactly the same).

Yamaha PX Series Class-D Amplifiers

Yamaha PX3 Amp. Settings: 1. Full Range Mode (20Hz-20kHz): 26dB and 32dB Gain, Gain set at 100% (Max, 0dB). EQ off. This was for Front Left and Right speakers. 2. Subwoofer Mode (20Hz-150Hz): 26dB and 32dB Gain, Gain set at 100%. HPF set to 20Hz (adjustable increment of 0.5-0.6 Hz). LPF set...

forums.audioholics.com

Just to throw in my vote for external amps as well. I’ve got a pair of T2/Ref that use two RBH SA-400 amps and a single 12” rosewood reference sub with a SA-400 also. They have been in service for years and years.
Prior to this, I swapped out so many internal amps only to see them fail again.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Just to throw in my vote for external amps as well. I’ve got a pair of T2/Ref that use two RBH SA-400 amps and a single 12” rosewood reference sub with a SA-400 also. They have been in service for years and years.
Prior to this, I swapped out so many internal amps only to see them fail again.

I think SEPARATE amps for externally powered Active sub and speaker systems might be the norm for many RBH system owners. But it's almost a radical notion for 99% of audiophiles.

And that's just ONE reason we love RBH. When 99% of companies wouldn't even offer the OPTION, RBH gives us this option.

The main purpose of using SEPARATES is to give us more flexibility, availability, compatibility, and reliability. This is the theory for using separates pre-pros, preamps, and amps. And this theory should be the same for speakers and subs as it is for electronics.

Yet, I bet 99% of audiophiles who fervently PREACH the use of separates electronics over AVRs will also preach the stuffing of amps inside all speakers and subs. Double standard much?

It's horrible garbage to put amps inside AVRs, but all of the sudden it's 100% perfectly peachy to put amps inside a 200-pound box of wood?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I’ve been to the holy land (RBH shop) and have seen the next generation of cabinets. Their even more overbuilt than prior versions. I’ve never seen a more heavily braced cabinet. Their satin black monolith is so beautiful, and frankly.....dead sexy. I want a pair so bad but will try to endure with my SX-T2/R somehow.

Yeah, I will somehow endure my five SX-T2/R towers also.

I guess they didn't allow any pictures of the new cabinets?

Are the cabinets still Curvy like the SX-T2 and SVT towers? Or are they now more Square like all the speakers on the market?

 

[ParleyW]

Yeah, I will somehow endure my five SX-T2/R towers also.

I guess they didn't allow any pictures of the new cabinets?

Are the cabinets still Curvy like the SX-T2 and SVT towers? Or are they now more Square like all the speakers on the market?

Think 2001: Space Odyssey. A beautiful satin black monolith. Development is ongoing, but that’s what I saw. I killed me not to take them home when someone went to the potty.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Think 2001: Space Odyssey. A beautiful satin black monolith. Development is ongoing, but that’s what I saw. I killed me not to take them home when someone went to the potty.

So it's more straight-lines than curvy? It seems more and more companies are going back to straight-lines.

 

[BuddhaBoy]

New registrant, first post and definitely not an audhiophile (yet!) - so please be patient.

My new SVTRs are on the way ( two SV-831Rs atop two SV-1212NRs). I am going to need a new amp to help drive these 4ohm speakers as my Harman Kardon 7200 receiver is rated for 8 ohms. I am considering an Emotiva XPA-2 Gen3 2 Channel amp to drive them. Any words of wisdom for me?

While it is just outside of my budget I could consider two monoblocks (XPA HC1) there are also a few amps on eBay/Audiogon available if they are better - Rotels, B&K Reference 200.5, Aragon 2005.

Thanks in advance,

The Buddha

 

[Movie2099]

New registrant, first post and definitely not an audhiophile (yet!) - so please be patient.

My new SVTRs are on the way ( two SV-831Rs atop two SV-1212NRs). I am going to need a new amp to help drive these 4ohm speakers as my Harman Kardon 7200 receiver is rated for 8 ohms. I am considering an Emotiva XPA-2 Gen3 2 Channel amp to drive them. Any words of wisdom for me?

While it is just outside of my budget I could consider two monoblocks (XPA HC1) there are also a few amps on eBay/Audiogon available if they are better - Rotels, B&K Reference 200.5, Aragon 2005.

Thanks in advance,

The Buddha

Excellent choice for speakers! Personally, I would skip the Emotiva. Not saying it would be a bad overall product, but it's been said Emotiva has terrible customer service and if that product breaks or has issues, you're pretty much better off just purchasing a new one. I would look at Monoprice amps. Way better customer service and made from a better company. You could also check out Outlaw amps, ATI amps (which makes Outlaw and Monolith amps), Rotel, Parasound or Anthem is good. Can't go wrong with any of the ones I listed. But I would suggest staying away from Emotiva.

 

[Montucky]

Excellent choice for speakers! Personally, I would skip the Emotiva. Not saying it would be a bad overall product, but it's been said Emotiva has terrible customer service and if that product breaks or has issues, you're pretty much better off just purchasing a new one. I would look at Monoprice amps. Way better customer service and made from a better company. You could also check out Outlaw amps, ATI amps (which makes Outlaw and Monolith amps), Rotel, Parasound or Anthem is good. Can't go wrong with any of the ones I listed. But I would suggest staying away from Emotiva.

Really? It's been a few years since I talked to the guys at Emotiva, but when I was working with them to figure out a unique solution for a customer, I found their customer service to be most excellent. Kind of like many of the other smaller audio companies, it'd go straight to a real live person who was intimately familiar with the products. In my case, the guy helping me was one of their product designers/engineers. Perhaps that's changed since, which would be a shame, but I just haven't heard anything about poor customer service until your post.