Marantz SR7010 - Protection mode , blew transistors twice!

[PENG]

Correct, call that as the baseline Test 0 .., with my previous config posted earlier ( ie Front Left Pre-Outted), No sound from FRONT LEFT , as expected, becos its Pre-Outted.

I wanted to test the different scenarios , with actual speaker load , exercising the Front LEFT Channel Direct, Height 2 Left Direct , as well Front Left via Pre-Out. Those are the 3 scenarios I posted above.

But yes , the original config produces no sound on FRONT LEFT as expected. Also, when speaker connected to HEIGHT 2 in the original config, Test Tone was OK on Top Rear Left.

Okay thanks that is what I wanted to know. So we know for sure it was the top rear left speaker connected to the front left when the transistors blew, not really blaming the speaker but it was connected at the time.

I would still prefer to have your cheap test speaker connected to the front left terminals, obviously de-select the "pre-out" first just to make sure there is no chance of testing the wrong channel amp by mistake. You really should leave it connected like that for at least a few hours at normal listening level. Obviously play your favorite music so you don't have to listen to test tones. I really don't see a need to test the other channels.

After that, the next test would be to test the original B&W CCM663 at low volume for a few minutes before cranking it up to normal level. Before you do that though, you really should use a new cable just as extra precaution. It is no fun sending it out to Panurgy again without being able to tell them you had already ruled out the speaker and cable.

 

[AVUser001]

I would still prefer to have your cheap test speaker connected to the front left terminals, obviously de-select the "pre-out" first just to make sure there is no chance of testing the wrong channel amp by mistake.

That was actually my Test 1, above . Speaker connected to FRONT LEFT "directly" (ie without pre-out).

You really should leave it connected like that for at least a few hours at normal listening level. Obviously play your favorite music so you don't have to listen to test tones.

Yes, as mentioned in my tests, I played both the Audyssey test tones and "test track" (ie music) gradually raising upto -10db levels.

 

[AVUser001]

Did one more test, but with the B&W Ceiling speakers , hooked up to Denon using the existing speaker cables/connectors , as FRONT LEFT & RIGHT Stereo pair , instead of the prior Atmos config.

Drove those speakers with pretty loud music (-20 - -10db) for 90mins or so. Absolutely no issues. Almost sounded like the Mains. Doesnt look the loud pop had any impact!

do you guys really think I need to run a new cable through the ceiling ? If there was any short , wouldnt it have shown up already ?

 

[PENG]

Did one more test, but with the B&W Ceiling speakers , hooked up to Denon using the existing speaker cables/connectors , as FRONT LEFT & RIGHT Stereo pair , instead of the prior Atmos config.

Drove those speakers with pretty loud music (-20 - -10db) for 90mins or so. Absolutely no issues. Almost sounded like the Mains. Doesnt look the loud pop had any impact!

do you guys really think I need to run a new cable through the ceiling ? If there was any short , wouldnt it have shown up already ?

Questions:
1. Did you manage to talk to the service tech, or at least someone in that department/group and asked them about the suspected causes?
2. Did you hear the loud pop during the first time the transistor blew, or both times?

I think it would be nice if you can chat with the tech, tell him you have done so far and whether he would want you to replace the speaker wires just to 100% rule out it out completely, but do emphasize it has been measured clear and used for hours with the Denon with no issues under the same conditions and same speaker.

So far you have tested the left channel on its own, and also the top rear left using the assign function and it went okay. That's without the Emo amp in the equation, though I can't see how it could be a relevant point.

After two failures in apparently the same way, I don't think anyone can guarantee all will be great if you hook everything back up and use it in 7.1.4. You may consider running it in 7.1.2 for a while first though. If it works without the top rear connected and failed the same way only when it is used, then at least you would learn something new that should help decide on the next step then..

If it was me, I would seriously consider using the 7010 in a two channel system, just keep using the Denon for 7.1 and wait for a potential huge price drop for the SR7013 or the 7705 in a few months. There is also the CX-A5100 or RX-A3080 that should be due for some nice price drop too I suppose. The 7010 isn't that old, but it did miss the significant preamp/vol control upgrade that came the year after.

 

[AVUser001]

Questions:
1. Did you manage to talk to the service tech, or at least someone in that department/group and asked them about the suspected causes?
2. Did you hear the loud pop during the first time the transistor blew, or both times?

Hi..
1.Yes I spoke to them , although apparently they dont expose their technicians to the phone. Only thing they say is 'something wrong with Front left..pls check your FRONT LEFT Speaker & Wiring. Its the same issue both times'. Had called again pressing for details, waiting for "the" technician to return from vacation.

2. Only the 1st time. The 2nd time, returning from the repair , I powered on the unit by itself , it came up fine. But once connected , it came up , stayed on for couple of seconds I think, and went to protection mode. Not sure if its a coincidence or not, but I felt it stayed on ,until the 12c DC trigger kicked-in .

If it was me, I would seriously consider using the 7010 in a two channel system,

That thought did cross my mind.. . Per the other thread(Sonos Amp vs Integrated Amp), I was and still preferring a smaller unit to place in my crowded office. 7010 ticks all the boxes for stereo music..and this S&V test bench of SR7010, does put the o/p of 2 channels at 4Ohm to over 200W at 0.1% THD

just keep using the Denon for 7.1 and wait for a potential huge price drop for the SR7013 or the 7705 in a few months. There is also the CX-A5100 or RX-A3080 that should be due for some nice price drop too I suppose.

Yes,as per our offline chat, those thoughts are running in the back of my mind...7705 (with a price drop) or comparable AVRs(6500 etc) ,with PowerAmp, could work in my HT.,

 

[PENG]

Hi..
1.Yes I spoke to them , although apparently they dont expose their technicians to the phone. Only thing they say is 'something wrong with Front left..pls check your FRONT LEFT Speaker & Wiring. Its the same issue both times'. Had called again pressing for details, waiting for "the" technician to return from vacation.

2. Only the 1st time. The 2nd time, returning from the repair , I powered on the unit by itself , it came up fine. But once connected , it came up , stayed on for couple of seconds I think, and went to protection mode. Not sure if its a coincidence or not, but I felt it stayed on ,until the 12c DC trigger kicked-in .



That thought did cross my mind.. . Per the other thread(Sonos Amp vs Integrated Amp), I was and still preferring a smaller unit to place in my crowded office. 7010 ticks all the boxes for stereo music..and this S&V test bench of SR7010, does put the o/p of 2 channels at 4Ohm to over 200W at 0.1% THD
View attachment 33041




Yes,as per our offline chat, those thoughts are running in the back of my mind...7705 (with a price drop) or comparable AVRs(6500 etc) ,with PowerAmp, could work in my HT.,

My AV8801 is about the size as the 7010 but slightly heavier. It looks small sitting right next to the A21. So an AVR for a 2 channel system is the next best thing to a small integrated amp in terms of size the weight.