Help Building 2.1 system for 65% movies and 35% music.

[aim1861]

Yes thats what I was thinking too designed by andrew Jones can't be disgustingly bad
Polk psw111 and pioneers are same price but polk has 150 watts but pioneer 50 watts.
Any thoughts?

 

[shadyJ]

The Pioneer won't be great, but none of those will be. I would only get it to take a load off the Q100s while getting some bass while you save up for a real sub. The more you spend on a temporary sub, the longer it will take you to get a real sub.

 

[aim1861]

I'll try to audition both with X3500, Kef Q100s and see which works better and pick one.

Any other suggestions or something I should consider or pull the trigger get X3500 and a cheap sub?

 

[sholling]

I don't know how your condo is (great sound proofing or tissue-paper walls) or how understanding your neighbors are but powerful subwoofers aren't always a great idea in a condo. If wall and floor shaking bass isn't a good idea then I'd consider forgoing a sub and find a way to fit in full range (35-20,000hz) towers. If that's not an option then plan on buying/building a isolation pad to go under a decent quality sub.

 

[Verdinut]

I don't know how your condo is (great sound proofing or tissue-paper walls) or how understanding your neighbors are but powerful subwoofers aren't always a great idea in a condo. If wall and floor shaking bass isn't a good idea then I'd consider forgoing a sub and find a way to fit in full range (35-20,000hz) towers. If that's not an option then plan on buying/building a isolation pad to go under a decent quality sub.

As a matter of fact, the isolation pad should consist of a concrete, granite or marble slab, a heavy material that doesn't vibrate.

 

[aim1861]

I don't know how your condo is (great sound proofing or tissue-paper walls) or how understanding your neighbors are but powerful subwoofers aren't always a great idea in a condo. If wall and floor shaking bass isn't a good idea then I'd consider forgoing a sub and find a way to fit in full range (35-20,000hz) towers. If that's not an option then plan on buying/building a isolation pad to go under a decent quality sub.

Wow! That looks like a task. Condo is well made but I am not looking for earth shattering bass reproduction. Just a lil low end fill but tight n accurate. I was thinking about a tower but I am limited with space.
I was thinking a good 8 inch sub but dunno what are my options.

 

[aim1861]

As a matter of fact, the isolation pad should consist of a concrete, granite or marble slab, a heavy material that doesn't vibrate.

I dont think I can make that unless I can buy it at a store or online and doesn't look ugly

 

[Verdinut]

Wow! That looks like a task. Condo is well made but I am not looking for earth shattering bass reproduction. Just a lil low end fill but tight n accurate. I was thinking about a tower but I am limited with space.
I was thinking a good 8 inch sub but dunno what are my options.

An 8 inch driver IMO cannot be considered as a sub because it cannot displace enough air to be efficient below 30 Hz. A real sub should be able to provide a response down to at least 25 Hz at -3dB. For acceptable and efficient sub performance, you need at least one 12" driver or two 10" drivers in a ported cabinet. Vented cabinets need more volume to perform adequately however.
On the other hand, with a sealed box, provided that you have a subwoofer that can handle a lot of power, without distorting, you can EQ it if you have an amplifier capable of supplying the clean needed power.

FIY, if the 8 inch supposedly sub is installed in a sealed box, you won't usually be able to get as much low frequency performance as you would get with decent towers.

 

[Verdinut]

I dont think I can make that unless I can buy it at a store or online and doesn't look ugly

If you want to spend a few hundred bucks, you should be able to get nicely cut granite or marble slabs from distributors who sell that sort of stuff.

 

[sholling]

Wow! That looks like a task. Condo is well made but I am not looking for earth shattering bass reproduction. Just a lil low end fill but tight n accurate. I was thinking about a tower but I am limited with space.
I was thinking a good 8 inch sub but dunno what are my options.

I'd call SVS and give them your requirements, limitations, and room dimensions, including that you are in a condo and have them size you a sub.

Isolation pads do not prevent bass from shaking walls and floors but they can help. They are cheap and easy to make or you can buy an Auralex Subdude for $50-100US on Amazon depending on the size. I'd wait and see if you need one before speeding the money.

 

[shadyJ]

As a matter of fact, the isolation pad should consist of a concrete, granite or marble slab, a heavy material that doesn't vibrate.

I don't see how this would work. A very stiff, dense material would simply transmit the mechanical energy. I don't see how a rock slab would make any difference whatsoever. Isolation pads are soft because they absorb the mechanical energy and turn it into heat. They damp the vibrations.

 

[aim1861]

An 8 inch driver IMO cannot be considered as a sub because it cannot displace enough air to be efficient below 30 Hz. A real sub should be able to provide a response down to at least 25 Hz at -3dB. For acceptable and efficient sub performance, you need at least one 12" driver or two 10" drivers in a ported cabinet. Vented cabinets need more volume to perform adequately however.
On the other hand, with a sealed box, provided that you have a subwoofer that can handle a lot of power, without distorting, you can EQ it if you have an amplifier capable of supplying the clean needed power.

FIY, if the 8 inch supposedly sub is installed in a sealed box, you won't usually be able to get as much low frequency performance as you would get with decent towers.

Almost 10 years back I had a logitech Z5500 THX certified 5.1 HTIB that had a ported 180 watts 8 inch sub and I think bass was sufficient for me then. I understand some movie's soundtrack go really down to 16-18 hz but I am willing to compromise a lil bit on that front and I dont even want to feel the rumble and chest pounding thumps.

Just looking to add a little dimension to music and movies which my KEFs are not able to handle well, at low volumes these are passable at best.

 

[aim1861]

I don't see how this would work. A very stiff, dense material would simply transmit the mechanical energy. I don't see how a rock slab would make any difference whatsoever. Isolation pads are soft because they absorb the mechanical energy and turn it into heat. They damp the vibrations.

Thank goodness, I checked auralex and those were not made of stones

How are the KEF Kube10 are in your opinion?
http://ca.kef.com/kube12b-kube10b-kube8b-subwoofers

Polk HTS10
https://www.polkaudio.com/products/hts10

 

[shadyJ]

I am guessing the Kef Kube10 is probably a bit more powerful than the Polk. It has a 300 watt amp vs the Polk's 100 watt amp. I can only speculate as to their respective performance though, there aren't any test measurements anywhere that I know of.

 

[KenM10759]

I own a KEF Kube 10b. It's used in my 10'x12' office, augmenting my KEF LS50 desktop stereo pair.

I had bought it very slightly used for 2/3rds the price they sell for new here in the US, so I was taking a risk. As it turns out, I love it. The performance shocks me, and in this room it sounds better than my SVS SB2000 because the DSP switch on it gives me options I don't get with the SVS. No regrets, only praise for this unit.

 

[Verdinut]

I don't see how this would work. A very stiff, dense material would simply transmit the mechanical energy. I don't see how a rock slab would make any difference whatsoever. Isolation pads are soft because they absorb the mechanical energy and turn it into heat. They damp the vibrations.

I took my info from the book entitled "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook -7th Edition" by Vance Dickason. On page 115 in this book, Vance clearly specifies that heavy stone or marble platforms simply don't vibrate in any fashion and cannot transmit vibration to the floor.

 

[shadyJ]

I took my info from the book entitled "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook -7th Edition" by Vance Dickason. On page 115 in this book, Vance clearly specifies that heavy stone or marble platforms simply don't vibrate in any fashion and cannot transmit vibration to the floor.

I have the 6th edition, I will have to look that up to see his source for that. It doesn't make much sense to me.

 

[lovinthehd]

I'd think a thick enough slab with enough mass could be effective. A pain to deal with, but effective. Rubber feet are much easier

 

[aim1861]

I am guessing the Kef Kube10 is probably a bit more powerful than the Polk. It has a 300 watt amp vs the Polk's 100 watt amp. I can only speculate as to their respective performance though, there aren't any test measurements anywhere that I know of.

Polk HTS 10 is (CAD 265) and KEF KUBE10 (CAD 600) do you think its worth buying Kef or buy SVS SB1000 instead?

 

[aim1861]

I own a KEF Kube 10b. It's used in my 10'x12' office, augmenting my KEF LS50 desktop stereo pair.

I had bought it very slightly used for 2/3rds the price they sell for new here in the US, so I was taking a risk. As it turns out, I love it. The performance shocks me, and in this room it sounds better than my SVS SB2000 because the DSP switch on it gives me options I don't get with the SVS. No regrets, only praise for this unit.

Do you use it for music or movies? How much you paid for it if you dont mind me asking?

What are some key differences you observed between SB2000 and KUBE10? My room is 12x20x8 ft. do you think it'll perform similarly?