Bass trapping below 80hz, practical or not?

Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Have a sub 1200 i borrowed that im going to use as a second sub. Using sine waves with the suns level matched to the 1500 shows its equally as capable of extenxing flat to 25hz as the 1500, so i will only lose about 3hz extension.

Im going to try placing the subs in the back left corners, and running the lcr channels full range and enabling main+lfe with an xover of 60hz. My fronts do just fine at 32hz 105dB, and the center is capable of 107dB @50hz. Since the problem is 50hz to begin with, this should behave as a pseudo quad sub setup. There's little content below 40hz mixed into the 5/7 channels in movies, so they should handle it just fine.

The response is flatter when running full range, and measuing the subs with the front l/r vs the sub alone. Eventually im planning on replacing the 250C with a third 160m' which will allow me to run the entire lcr as full range without any content loss.

I did find out the the denon will split the lfe channel across all 5 speakers if they're set to full range and no sub. Makes me wonder how a subless 5.0.2 setup with something like 5 rp280fs would perform lol. 10 8" drivers have a surfave area of 500 inches, which is comparable to 3 15" subs.

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highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Have a sub 1200 i borrowed that im going to use as a second sub. Using sine waves with the suns level matched to the 1500 shows its equally as capable of extenxing flat to 25hz as the 1500, so i will only lose about 3hz extension.

Im going to try placing the subs in the back left corners, and running the lcr channels full range and enabling main+lfe with an xover of 60hz. My fronts do just fine at 32hz 105dB, and the center is capable of 107dB @50hz. Since the problem is 50hz to begin with, this should behave as a pseudo quad sub setup. There's little content below 40hz mixed into the 5/7 channels in movies, so they should handle it just fine.

The response is flatter when running full range, and measuing the subs with the front l/r vs the sub alone. Eventually im planning on replacing the 250C with a third 160m' which will allow me to run the entire lcr as full range without any content loss.

I did find out the the denon will split the lfe channel across all 5 speakers if they're set to full range and no sub. Makes me wonder how a subless 5.0.2 setup with something like 5 rp280fs would perform lol. 10 8" drivers have a surfave area of 500 inches, which is comparable to 3 15" subs.

Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk
It's not just surface area, it's about displacement, which means the excursion of the 8" drivers needs to match the total from the larger woofers.

Also, have you tried limiting the center channel's response to >50Hz? There's no dialog in the <60 region, so it shouldn't hurt anything.

Regardless of where the subs go, it's still an almost square room, so the modes will contribute unless they're attenuated. According to the room mode calculator in the link I provided, the 50Hz mode is excited anywhere across the front and back walls, the 46.8 mode is excited anywhere across the side walls. Have you moved the sub(s) away from the walls?
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
It's not just surface area, it's about displacement, which means the excursion of the 8" drivers needs to match the total from the larger woofers.

Also, have you tried limiting the center channel's response to >50Hz? There's no dialog in the <60 region, so it shouldn't hurt anything.

Regardless of where the subs go, it's still an almost square room, so the modes will contribute unless they're attenuated. According to the room mode calculator in the link I provided, the 50Hz mode is excited anywhere across the front and back walls, the 46.8 mode is excited anywhere across the side walls. Have you moved the sub(s) away from the walls?
I don't necessarily need the modes to not be excited, audyssey will take care of that, i just want a more even bass response. I might try moving it out from the wall, though my wife will probably insist i move it back lol.

The one place it might be able to sit out from the wall would be at the front wall at the midpoint, about 3 1/2 feet into the room. Where would an ideal spot be?

Also the center measures faily flat in the bass. No point crossing it higher. I know many here are rigidly stuck on an 80hz xover point but I've never had good blending with an xover greater than 60hz. In my experience the lower the xover the better the sub integrates, considering my front l/r are easily capable of a full 105dB @40hz, and the center and surrounds are capable of 105dB @50hz, there's no reason to cross them over higher if i can acheive a flat response via EQ across each channel.

Also, a center speaker reproduces far more than just dialog. Over 60 percent of the effects anchored to the screen are mixed into the center, and i almost always listen to music upmixed with DSU or other upmixing algorithms, with no center spread. I personally find a real center beats a phantom center no matter the content, and most non audio people ive demoed it to agree a hard center for music sounds more natural.

As for matching excursion, lets assume a single speaker is capable of 105dB at 30hz without distortion, each channel adds an additional 3dB, which gives a combined headroom of 117dB, plenty to handle both the LFE and the regular bass.

With LFE+main, the bass at and below the xover is attentuated in the speakers 3dB, and in the sub 3dB, in order to properly match, this affords greater headroom in the speakers as well.

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Johnny2Bad

Johnny2Bad

Audioholic Chief
Bass Traps can mitigate standing waves to a certain extent. They are not particularly easy to implement, they tend to be rather large, and you should have an honest talk with yourself (and think of others who might share the space) as to exactly what extent you are willing to go as far as changing the decor and layout.

Although it's not particularly relevant to low frequency only room treatment, in my experience people tend to add additional room treatments once they start exploring it. Loudspeaker designers and manufacturers for home HiFi will taylor the sonics to work in typical residential settings.

A fully treated room is more the province of the studio monitor. It can lead to changing your speakers entirely, and into a different class of component. I'm not trying to discourage you, far from it. Room treatments are useful if implemented well. But keep in mind you don't really want an anechoic chamber for a listening room, because relatively few speakers are made to sound best in one.

You should take care that you are not entering the world of "band-aids". If you start out with speakers that sound best without any treatment, you will probably like the result better than if you "go down the rabbit hole" fixing something that should already be mostly fixed. If applicable, maybe investing in subs better suited to your situation should be considered; after all effective bass traps are not free.

It's hard to be more specific; even if you supply a good description it's still almost impossible to know what the low frequencies actually sound like in a room you aren't in. I wish you well, though.

I recommend checking out Dennis Foley's YouTube lectures, a visit to his company's website and forum, and take him up on his free analysis.

https://www.acousticfields.com
 
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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Bass Traps can mitigate standing waves to a certain extent. They are not particularly easy to implement, they tend to be rather large, and you should have an honest talk with yourself (and think of others who might share the space) as to exactly what extent you are willing to go as far as changing the decor and layout.

Although it's not particularly relevant to low frequency only room treatment, in my experience people tend to add additional room treatments once they start exploring it. Loudspeaker designers and manufacturers for home HiFi will taylor the sonics to work in typical residential settings.

A fully treated room is more the province of the studio monitor. It can lead to changing your speakers entirely, and into a different class of component. I'm not trying to discourage you, far from it. Room treatments are useful if implemented well. But keep in mind you don't really want an anechoic chamber for a listening room, because relatively few speakers are made to sound best in one.
The timbre of my speakers doesn't really change treated vs untreated due to fairly well controlled directivity, but small room slap echo and very short early reflection delay times in smaller rooms really do nothing but screw up the imaging and sound stage in my experience.

I've had the chance to listen to my own speakers in a highly reverberant room that is larger, has many non parallel sufaces, and a high ceiling, and they sound great in there. In my tiny bedroom, untreated reflections sound like crap. The room isn't heavily treated, I've got two 12"x12" (creating a 24x12" panel) on the left and right lateral first reflection points, two more about 3' in front, and a 24x24 inch area of absorption on the ceiling first reflection point. That's more than enough absorption to fix the problem.

You are correct though, a completely dead room sounds awful.

The physics involved with the size of bass traps necessary to have an effect on very low frequencies such as 50hz would take up so much space in the room it'd be impractical.

It's hard to be more specific; even if you supply a good description it's still almost impossible to know what the low frequencies actually sound like in a room you aren't in. I wish you well, though.
That's what the measurement graphs are for basically 50hz is way too loud and rings on and on.

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highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I don't necessarily need the modes to not be excited, audyssey will take care of that, i just want a more even bass response. I might try moving it out from the wall, though my wife will probably insist i move it back lol.

The one place it might be able to sit out from the wall would be at the front wall at the midpoint, about 3 1/2 feet into the room. Where would an ideal spot be?

Also the center measures faily flat in the bass. No point crossing it higher. I know many here are rigidly stuck on an 80hz xover point but I've never had good blending with an xover greater than 60hz. In my experience the lower the xover the better the sub integrates, considering my front l/r are easily capable of a full 105dB @40hz, and the center and surrounds are capable of 105dB @50hz, there's no reason to cross them over higher if i can acheive a flat response via EQ across each channel.

Also, a center speaker reproduces far more than just dialog. Over 60 percent of the effects anchored to the screen are mixed into the center, and i almost always listen to music upmixed with DSU or other upmixing algorithms, with no center spread. I personally find a real center beats a phantom center no matter the content, and most non audio people ive demoed it to agree a hard center for music sounds more natural.

As for matching excursion, lets assume a single speaker is capable of 105dB at 30hz without distortion, each channel adds an additional 3dB, which gives a combined headroom of 117dB, plenty to handle both the LFE and the regular bass.

With LFE+main, the bass at and below the xover is attentuated in the speakers 3dB, and in the sub 3dB, in order to properly match, this affords greater headroom in the speakers as well.

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Are you treating the walls to absorb the first reflections?

Your first comment doesn't work. You're familiar with sympathetic vibrations, right? It takes little energy to get them going and it's hard to stop them- this is the same thing- the air really wants to vibrate at these frequencies in that room because of the dimensions. It's no different from a vibrating string- the mass, length and tension determine the pitch of the fundamental and the distance between parallel surfaces determines the resonant frequency.

Audyssey does NOT take care of modes in a way that allows for the best sound. It can only subtract from the output at those peaks and anything else it does, which might include changing the distance setting, will cause other issues.

The ideal spots for speakers tend to be away from the center of walls or the floor- that provides symmetrical stimulation and you don't want that.

The center is already crossed at what, 60Hz? The crossover slope isn't infinite, so you still get output at 50Hz and the other nearby mode, at 46.8Hz- that's close enough to cause this to become difficult to manage.

You can have a large number of small drivers producing 30Hz, but they'll never provide the same feeling you get from larger drivers at the same frequency unless the smaller ones have been grouped together. You need to think of a moving cone as the head of a piston.

I would stop thinking in terms of headroom and more about the dynamics of the air moving in the room. High SPL in a small room causes even more problems and if you're expecting Audyssey to dampen harmonic vibrations, you'll never cure this. The room needs to be somewhat inert- having specific frequencies that can be easily excited means they'll ring like a drum head if you don't dampen them. Equalization can't fix everything.

Blow across the mouth of a bottle- it really wants to produce one frequency and the only way the frequency can be changed is by changing the internal volume of the bottle as long as the velocity of the air doesn't change.

If you have/download a tone generator and do a frequency sweep between about 20Hz and 200Hz, without using your subs- look at an RTA screen while this is going through the problem frequencies and watch the amplitude increase, even if the output doesn't- THAT won't be solved with simple equalization. The relationship between the sound source and the reflective/absorptive surfaces is where the solution lies, as well as the room's dimensions. That's the reason it's necessary to determine the percentage of treated surfaces when treating a room.
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Okay, i have taken a measument using a calibrated omnimic of the front R speaker without audyssey enabled. It looks like it's pretty much flat above 80hz, perhaps a minidsp on the sub or multiple subs only and an 80hz xover would solve the problem?


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everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Okay, i have taken a measument using a calibrated omnimic of the front R speaker without audyssey enabled. It looks like it's pretty much flat above 80hz, perhaps a minidsp on the sub or multiple subs only and an 80hz xover would solve the problem?


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1/6 smoothing will make a lot of things look good. Also the spl is too low to get the correct measurements to evaluate. I liked your thought of DIY sub /s , not that
the Dayton sub series is horrible, but your limiting yourself with a budget sub, if you can do it.
 
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KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
1/3 smoothing will make a lot of things look good. Also the spl is too low to get the correct measurements to evaluate. I liked your thought of DIY sub /s , not that
the Dayton sub series is horrible, but your limiting yourself with a budget sub, if you can do it.
For the record, the chart is labeled as 1/6 smoothing (unless you know better).
What level of smoothing would you recommend? 1/12?
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
For the record, the chart is labeled as 1/6 smoothing (unless you know better).
What level of smoothing would you recommend? 1/12?
Just mistyped thanks. When dealing with the sub I go un filtered so that rew gets raw data to output to the minidsp. If wanting to know room interactions with subs, I'd look at waterfall plots instead of response curves, Otherwise 1/16
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
1/6 smoothing will make a lot of things look good. Also the spl is too low to get the correct measurements to evaluate. I liked your thought of DIY sub /s , not that
the Dayton sub series is horrible, but your limiting yourself with a budget sub, if you can do it.
If PE ever gets the ultimax drivers back in stock...

Also i am still having the issues with audyssey causing a 12dB rolloff on the highs that is absent without it, even using the flat curve. Even tried out a different mic, same problem.

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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Measurements of the sub in the right rear corner, with lfe+main enabled and an 80hz xover.

Looks like lfe+main simply adds a 5dB low end shelf, which isn't a bad thing. Still rolling off at about 33hz. Might try applying a shelf filter.

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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Measurements of the sub by itself, the sub with an 80hz xover, and a quick Iir filter dsp correction


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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
80hz xover at the front t of the room and lfe+main. Much smoother bass across the whole room with lfe +main enabled. No dsp applied.


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everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Are you using hdmi from computer to avr? If so take sub, then left, and then right and overlay. Also check your spl levels. First graph you posted was good, thanks. Also waterfall plot.
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Thd of front right speaker @40hz 100dB


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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Are you using hdmi from computer to avr? If so take sub, then left, and then right and overlay. Also check your spl levels. First graph you posted was good, thanks. Also waterfall plot.
What do you mean?

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everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
What do you mean?

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If your connected from the computer to the avr with hdmi you can measure individual channels, then overlay will show each component (speakers) in relation to the others with ease. Waterfall plot will give you time domain for sub, which is important to understanding the rooms interaction.
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Last Pic is a 1m windowed response of the rp 160m


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Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Here's the step response of the 160m just for fun. Looks like klipsch managed to time align the speakers.


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