How to remove this plate amp?

[PENG]

I have a stupid question.. Any help will be appreciated.

I wanted to remove the Bash amp yesterday, but after removing all the perimeter screws, in fact even all the screws, it would not come out. I have not tried to ply it yet because it would have made major scratch marks for sure.

I even removed the driver so that I could twist my arm up and gave the stupid thing a couple bangs from the inside, it still wouldn't come loose at all. Am I supposed to try some sort of jacking screw?

Thanks.

 

[everettT]

Can you remove the power plug completely to get some pull through it. The seal used around cutout sets pretty good after usage. I removed my audio input plate on my Epiks, which was close the top corner, and pulled from there.

 

[TLS Guy]

I have a stupid question.. Any help will be appreciated.

View attachment 22409

I wanted to remove the Bash amp yesterday, but after removing all the perimeter screws, in fact even all the screws, it would not come out. I have not tried to ply it yet because it would have made major scratch marks for sure.

I even removed the driver so that I could twist my arm up and gave the stupid thing a couple bangs from the inside, it still wouldn't come loose at all. Am I supposed to try some sort of jacking screw?

Thanks.

I suspect there is a gasket between the amp and the enclosure. Often these deteriorate over time and turn to "glue". I would get a brush and soak the outside rim with alcohol and keep it wet for at least 20 minutes. Then try and remove the amp. Alcohol will denature anything sticky and not take the finish off hopefully. Also the set up will not reharden. Acetone or other ketones, will almost certainly take the finish off and will reharden like glue if allowed to dry.

You might have to use a bit of persuasion even so. You might have to put a piece of timber in through the speaker opening and on the front of the amp case if it has a complete case, and hit the wood with a soft hammer. I like the type of soft hammer that is packed inside with small steel balls. You get better more gentle impact with those.

Even then you might have to pry it out. I would use a putty spreader.

 

[Irvrobinson]

Even then you might have to pry it out. I would use a putty spreader.

If you have to pry it out, PENG, I would recommend nylon tools used in the automotive repair field, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Removal-Ubegood-Premium-Molding-Fastener/dp/B073SP73K6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506439887&sr=8-5&keywords=nylon+pry+tools

Most auto parts stores seem to carry them now.

 

[lovinthehd]

Curious, why are you taking the sub apart?

 

[PENG]

I suspect there is a gasket between the amp and the enclosure. Often these deteriorate over time and turn to "glue". I would get a brush and soak the outside rim with alcohol and keep it wet for at least 20 minutes. Then try and remove the amp. Alcohol will denature anything sticky and not take the finish off hopefully. Also the set up will not reharden. Acetone or other ketones, will almost certainly take the finish off and will reharden like glue if allowed to dry.

You might have to use a bit of persuasion even so. You might have to put a piece of timber in through the speaker opening and on the front of the amp case if it has a complete case, and hit the wood with a soft hammer. I like the type of soft hammer that is packed inside with small steel balls. You get better more gentle impact with those.

Even then you might have to pry it out. I would use a putty spreader.

Glue, did cross my mind, a melted gasket may do just that, thanks.

 

[PENG]

If you have to pry it out, PENG, I would recommend nylon tools used in the automotive repair field, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Removal-Ubegood-Premium-Molding-Fastener/dp/B073SP73K6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506439887&sr=8-5&keywords=nylon+pry+tools

Most auto parts stores seem to carry them now.

Thanks for the idea, I may try that if I can find something today. The gap around the perimeter is very narrow so wish me luck..

 

[PENG]

Curious, why are you taking the sub apart?

It has been making quiet rattling/hissing noise for months since the auto on/off had failed. Yesterday it stopped making sound, but started working again after I tried to open it up, still has that noise. I want to see if there is anything obvious and repairable. If not, I will replace the amp.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Replace the amp?

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new subwoofer to me.

This time, buy a passive subwoofer.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Yep. ADTG said it.

 

[KEW]

I would put the inner screws back in place before "persuading it". It is a safe bet that they hold on a sub board that may cause damage if it "falls" off of the plate.

@TLS Guy , rare indeed that I can help you with wording, but (shot filled) "dead-blow hammer" is what you wanted.

 

[TLS Guy]

I would put the inner screws back in place before "persuading it". It is a safe bet that they hold on a sub board that may cause damage if it "falls" off of the plate.

@TLS Guy , rare indeed that I can help you with wording, but (shot filled) "dead-blow hammer" is what you wanted.

Nice to know the correct nomenclature! I have had mine for years and years. It is a very useful tool. You can get very controlled "persuasion" with those.

I think if PENG can really get the alcohol to seep under the rim, it will come out without damaging persuasion.

 

[PENG]

Replace the amp?

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new subwoofer to me.

This time, buy a passive subwoofer.

A few one will cost a lot more, I can buy the amp from Gentec, the owner, or ex owner of Klipsch, Jamo and Energy. Anyway now that it is sort of working again I may leave it till weekend when I have more time.

Before I buy a new one I would try a jack hammer on it first.

 

[KEW]

A few one will cost a lot more, I can buy the amp from Gentec, the owner, or ex owner of Klipsch, Jamo and Energy. Anyway now that it is sort of working again I may leave it till weekend when I have more time.

Before I buy a new one I would try a jack hammer on it first.

Curious, have you gotten pricing on it (or even better, is there a link to replacement amps)?
I have a couple of ESW-C8's. No problems yet, but it is always good to know my options.

 

[PENG]

Curious, have you gotten pricing on it (or even better, is there a link to replacement amps)?
I have a couple of ESW-C8's. No problems yet, but it is always good to know my options.

Yes, I called Gentec in Makham Ontario, was told around C$180. He said he still had several in stock, new ones.

Here's the Warranty link

Call (905) 513-7733 and ask for Fernando, Repair and Parts Dept.

There was a used one for $200 recently at the canuckaudiomart, but was sold in no time. A new one is not cheap, here's an example:

http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/core/view_BigProduct.cfm?PID=1485

 

[PENG]

I would like to thank everyone who responded, what a great forum! @TLG Guy was right on about the gasket, it was compressed to the point I could see it acted like glue.

After a good night sleep, I decided to give it another quick trial. I remove the binding post caps to exposed the holes, then I put a good size hex key through them, 2 holes at a time to ply the plate loose. On the 3rd ply it popped right out. By the way, I tried hammering it with a rubber mallet before and it didn't work no matter how hard I bang it. It might have helped the hex key step though.

I may be the only one who has such stupid problem but I thought it wouldn't hurt sharing the trick that worked in this case, without the risk of scratching the shiny black finish.

 

[panteragstk]

I would like to thank everyone who responded, what a great forum! @TLG Guy was right on about the gasket, it was compressed to the point I could see it acted like glue.

After a good night sleep, I decided to give it another quick trial. I remove the binding post caps to exposed the holes, then I put a good size hex key through them, 2 holes at a time to ply the plate loose. On the 3rd ply it popped right out. By the way, I tried hammering it with a rubber mallet before and it didn't work no matter how hard I bang it. It might have helped the hex key step though.

I may be the only one who has such stupid problem but I thought it wouldn't hurt sharing the trick that worked in this case, without the risk of scratching the shiny black finish.

You see anything wrong with it? Or are you just going to get a new amp?

 

[PENG]

You see anything wrong with it? Or are you just going to get a new amp?

I don't see any signs of trouble and won't waste time to troubleshoot blindly. For $180 I am going to pick up the amp this Friday. I hope they stock the LED status indicator too because that doesn't seem to work now after I had it removed and re-installed a couple times, may have kill it with reverse polarity.

 

[lovinthehd]

Must be a significantly better sub than the basic Energy 8" I got with my Take set, least of all the subs I've had by a long shot....didn't even bother hooking up a spare amp when it failed earlier this year, but mine wasnt the V8 version....but if I did replace the amp I'd probably not do a plate amp either, just get more of the same later more than likely.

 

[PENG]

Must be a significantly better sub than the basic Energy 8" I got with my Take set, least of all the subs I've had by a long shot....didn't even bother hooking up a spare amp when it failed earlier this year, but mine wasnt the V8 version....but if I did replace the amp I'd probably not do a plate amp either, just get more of the same later more than likely.

The "V" represents Veritas I suppose, that should match the quality standard of the Energy Veritas line, not the Veritas since Klipsch took ownership though. The older Veritas are comparable to Paradigm's Signature series and the PSB synchrony series, all Canadian stuff.

I checked the LED status indicator today and it looks fine, so it must be just the amp, that is totally dead again after I had it out and back in. Funny, the first time I took it out and put it back, it came back to life, yet when I did it again the second it went back to death. There is no loose connections or anything that I can see.. Even when it was working it was making weird but quiet noise, so it's got to go regardless.