Really Boring Stuff Only III: Resurrection

Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
What amps and DAC's are you two talking about? I haven't had gear lust for a while. And what's the hold up?
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
What amps and DAC's are you two talking about? I haven't had gear lust for a while. And what's the hold up?
A headphone amp from Kickstarter. Now that I have my Sennheisers, I kind of wish that I had gotten one. Kind of.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
A headphone amp from Kickstarter. Now that I have my Sennheisers, I kind of wish that I had gotten one. Kind of.
We'll have to let you know how awesome they are and how badly you missed out if they ever ship :p
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I finally figured out how to properly assemble those damn compression connectors w/ 100% reliability. I used up the last of the rg-6 connectors on my sub cable repair and i'M MAKING A BUNCH OF CUSTOM LENGTH RG-59 (yes, I was screaming that). The RG-59 was scavenged from work. It's got a 95% copper braid. Very flexible. I use to think it was bare copper coated steel center conductor but now I think it's solid copper.

I've been watching nature shows and Family Guy while listening to the blues. It makes more sense.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
A mirror? That's so 90's, dude. I use a WiFi camera and my phone.
Oh yeah, those smartphone flash lights do work pretty good. Sh!t, I think I need a smart phone now that my gps died. I actually do carry a flashlight in my lunch cooler/European Man Shoulder Bag. It's the first one I've had that was killer.

I think I'm going to cut up some hard salami. Diet schmiet.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I finally figured out how to properly assemble those damn compression connectors w/ 100% reliability. I used up the last of the rg-6 connectors on my sub cable repair and i'M MAKING A BUNCH OF CUSTOM LENGTH RG-59 (yes, I was screaming that).
What compression tool do you use? What kind of problems did you have? And what finally worked?

I've always talked myself out of buying one of those compression tools because I was afraid the learning curve would be slow & expensive.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
What compression tool do you use? What kind of problems did you have? And what finally worked?

I've always talked myself out of buying one of those compression tools because I was afraid the learning curve would be slow & expensive.
The tool and the stripper were my best purchases ever. I was having trouble figuring out just how much center conductor to strip and then the issue of what to peel off the dielectric and what to leave on was sort of problematic. Finally inserting the cable into the connector is a two part deal. You get the dielectric lined up and started only to stop where the center conductor meets its hole. That's a much tighter shot. You need to stop and poke around until you feel it go past the hard stops and then finish pushing it in until you're (it's killing me not to say balls deep) in to a depth of 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 inches that you had in your infinite wisdom and foresight marked on the cable with masking tape.

Note: When you are trying to insert the center conductor in it's hole, listen. If you miss the hole and collapse the wire on itself, like kink it, you can hear that. Success has a sound and a feel. It's not rocket science but you have to pay attention. Oh yeah, the stripper sometimes wraps a lone copper strand from the braid tightly around the center conductor so glasses and magnifying glasses help.

The Belden rg-59 I scavenged is about 50 bucks for 30 feet. Its95% copper braid is good enough for analog audio. Straight rg-6 with whatever BJC says for foil and braid is best for digital audio and video. Quadshield is a waste of effort and needlessly stiff. What's cool is that the connectors are available at HD.

Initially you lay out some cash but when you need cables you got cables. World class cables. Custom lengths made on site ... we bad. The connectors fit well too. None 'o that death grip sh!t.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
The tool and the stripper were my best purchases ever.
Did you buy the tool & stripper separately ($47.36), or get the kit with case for $99.90?

The kit seems kind of pricey, and it includes some connectors I might use and others I won't, like those BNC bits. The case might be nice because it holds all those separate pieces. I can loose that kind of stuff if they aren't all together in one box.

I looked up the PE prices of the connectors. The F connectors are $0.75 each and $0.68 if you buy 10-99. The RCA connectors are much more, $1.75 for 10-99 for RG-59. And even more for RG-6, $2.25 for 10-99. That's enough to make me stop. Why are the RCA connectors so much more than the F connectors? Are the HD prices better?

I'm beginning to remember why I talked myself out of this before. I don't rearrange things like you do. Once I install something it stays there. If I do need a different cable, I buy it already terminated. And I don't find unused spools of RG-59 lying around where I work :rolleyes:.
 
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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Did you buy the tool & stripper separately ($47.36), or get the kit with case for $99.90?

The kit seems kind of pricey, and it includes some connectors I might use and others I won't, like those BNC bits. The case might be nice because it holds all those separate pieces. I can loose that kind of stuff if they aren't all together in one box.

I looked up the PE prices of the connectors. The F connectors are $0.75 each and $0.68 if you buy 10-99. The RCA connectors are much more, $1.75 for 10-99 for RG-59. And even more for RG-6, $2.25 for 10-99. That's enough to make me stop. Why are the RCA connectors so much more than the F connectors? Are the HD prices better?

I'm beginning to remember why I talked myself out of this before. I don't rearrange things like you do. Once I install something it stays there. If I do need a different cable, I buy it already terminated. And I don't find unused spools of RG-59 lying around where I work :rolleyes:.
Actually the RG-59 wasn't an unused spool. It was strung out above an acoustical ceiling on a demolition job. I pulled that sh!t down on break and spooled it up. I had to work for that one. I did buy a 500 foot spool of quad once and I used it! It took years but it got used. I figure the connectors are 2 bucks a pop give or take. F connectors are just a hole for the cable to pop through. An RCA connector has more to it.

HD doesn't charge shipping obviously. I don't recommend the kit. Just get what you need as you need it. I set up my sister's first system with those tools and basically re-coaxed a private customers house so the tools and 500' of quad did get used. I also gave myself 4 subwoofer locations in the living room of which I'm using 2.

I'm not going to be changing stuff up much anymore but I re-introduced an EQ that I repaired to the living room system. It's only for the subs but a couple of custom lengths allowed me to route my cables around the door opening for that uber clean custom look like you see in magazines ... j/k, it's still not that slick ... but it's still pretty slick ... and the wires are flexible. I love not having extra wire to deal with.

I just got it all dialed in with like 3 EQ settings. #3 is the custom individually adjusted voodoo setting. It sounds good but the true test: Guantalamera.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I'll have to keep this in mind. I may or may not get it. And I'll have to remember your comments about learning to do it right.
  • You have to figure out how much center conductor to strip.
  • And remember how to insert the cable into the connector – a two part deal.
  • And then this quote…
You get the dielectric lined up and started only to stop where the center conductor meets its hole. That's a much tighter shot. You need to stop and poke around until you feel it go past the hard stops and then finish pushing it in until you're balls deep, a depth of 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 inches.
1-1/8 to 1-1/4 inches is THAT DEEP? I don't seem to need masking tape for that.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I'll have to keep this in mind. I may or may not get it. And I'll have to remember your comments about learning to do it right.
  • You have to figure out how much center conductor to strip.
  • And remember how to insert the cable into the connector – a two part deal.
  • And then this quote…
1-1/8 to 1-1/4 inches is THAT DEEP? I don't seem to need masking tape for that.
On the cable you need it to know when you're all in. You don't really want to twirl the connector needlessly. You have to turn it a little as you initially start the dielectric on its way and again when you search out the center conductor pin hole. After compression you can check for snugness but don't torque it like you want to break it.

Remember crying over the last analog connection from your Blu-ray player? I bet $100 would have gotten you most of the way there on that whole wire job. More work but the flexibility afforded by custom lengths has saved me countless trouble. I also use to have a 500' spool of 14/4 in wall speaker cable. An automatic wire stripper just goes with the turf ... where was I going with this?

I'm growing a mustache.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Remember crying over the last analog connection from your Blu-ray player? I bet $100 would have gotten you most of the way there on that whole wire job. More work but the flexibility afforded by custom lengths has saved me countless trouble. I also use to have a 500' spool of 14/4 in wall speaker cable. An automatic wire stripper just goes with the turf ... where was I going with this?
I eventually bought two sets of 8' long component video cable. I think they cost $20 each. That did the trick. The old ones were 6' long and were just ½" too short.

It's hard to stop being a cheapskate.
I'm growing a mustache.
You should update your avatar.
Moustache.png
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Just remember I have a miniDSP 2x8 lying around that was originally for the NaO Note II RS project. Today is a good day.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I eventually bought two sets of 8' long component video cable. I think they cost $20 each. That did the trick.
I'm lucky that I normally have rear access. I tried plugging an optical connector in without pulling out the armoire in ManTown and I nearly wept. My knees were screaming. My hands were holding a flashlight, a mirror and the cable while I craned my head over to see through the correct part of my progressive lenses. About 30 seconds of that and I dropped the flaslight onto the other optical connector unplugging it and then finally landing in the nest of loosely fitted HDMI connectors. That was kind of good because I didn't want anything at all to work in the system except maybe fm. F^%&.

When I tried running the 7 channel amp in the living room system I had bought 3 sets of fat 16' Monster component video cable to save myself the hassle but that was for outside the cabinet. Inside the cabinet it is much harder to accommodate stiff wire so that's where the DIY option can make life easier.

My subwoofer experience in general: The pee-pee subs in the living room when dialed in do add LF extension. My EQ has an RTA so I can see the LF info that I'm not hearing, like <25 Hz. I tried taming each subs individual peaks and I lowered the output on the sub which is supper nearfield for the 'B' listening position. The surround by the 'B' listening position is also down like 3 or 4 db from reference due to that same super nearfield condition. Can you tell I'm starting to think I'm cool?

Okay, now I'm bored too. Knee guy appointment at 8:45 AM. I'm going to have him look at my shoulder.
 
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