How do you read AV grades?

[killdozzer]

Is 200$ top graded speaker better than a 400$ 4stars/gradeB/call-it-what-you-want/next to the best in the line speaker?

I remember reading The Wirecutter and finding one priceless piece of information, (it was about home theatre movie screens) they said that you should buy the silver screen for 200$ and if you wanted a significant improvement over that screen you’ll find yourself spending 1400/1500$.

Now, this is all I need however scarce info like these are. I appreciate The Wirecutter and take their articles seriously. They really go the distance (take couple of dozens of products, decide on the methodology and on what it is that you’re looking for/testing they test rigorously ad only then do they recommend).

Imagine if you have a couple of dollars to spend on speakers alone. Someone tells you: you should audition these because these are the best 200$ speakers by many of the leading ‘audio pundits’. So you, of course, take them for testing. But you actually have more than 200$, you could even double that money. You find some 400$ top rated speakers, but not where you live, so the price goes up and brake the budget. However, in your hometown you can find speakers that most people in the business grade as second to best or not quite, lacking just some small details. Do you consider them?

IMPORTANT: I know most of you will say: bring them home where you will use them, listen, buy the ones that sounded best to you. BUT, this is a question on how you read ratings in general. And I am asking this to make my life easier. I can’t really audition 25 speakers, it is not that easy.

You see how great that Wirecutter info was; this product works better than almost all other products until the 1400$ limit.

(it is about the QAcoustics. I know they're not that big in USA, but they manage to amaze almost everyone who hears them while looking at the price tag)

 

[slipperybidness]

Is 200$ top graded speaker better than a 400$ 4stars/gradeB/call-it-what-you-want/next to the best in the line speaker?

I remember reading The Wirecutter and finding one priceless piece of information, (it was about home theatre movie screens) they said that you should buy the silver screen for 200$ and if you wanted a significant improvement over that screen you’ll find yourself spending 1400/1500$.

Now, this is all I need however scarce info like these are. I appreciate The Wirecutter and take their articles seriously. They really go the distance (take couple of dozens of products, decide on the methodology and on what it is that you’re looking for/testing they test rigorously ad only then do they recommend).

Imagine if you have a couple of dollars to spend on speakers alone. Someone tells you: you should audition these because these are the best 200$ speakers by many of the leading ‘audio pundits’. So you, of course, take them for testing. But you actually have more than 200$, you could even double that money. You find some 400$ top rated speakers, but not where you live, so the price goes up and brake the budget. However, in your hometown you can find speakers that most people in the business grade as second to best or not quite, lacking just some small details. Do you consider them?

IMPORTANT: I know most of you will say: bring them home where you will use them, listen, buy the ones that sounded best to you. BUT, this is a question on how you read ratings in general. And I am asking this to make my life easier. I can’t really audition 25 speakers, it is not that easy.

You see how great that Wirecutter info was; this product works better than almost all other products until the 1400$ limit.

(it is about the QAcoustics. I know they're not that big in USA, but they manage to amaze almost everyone who hears them while looking at the price tag)

In this hobby and many other hobbies, price often has nothing to do with performance!

Once you hit a certain threshold of quality, then any little improvement costs big $.

 

[tyhjaarpa]

It is impossible to know what speaker suits you best by reading reviews as every one prefers different things. How ever you can read reviews to get some idea how they should perform. But looking on values is like looking on paint cans instead of paintings.

 

[Swerd]

Is 200$ top graded speaker better than a 400$ 4stars/gradeB/call-it-what-you-want/next to the best in the line speaker?

Review ratings, 4 stars, 3 stars, etc., are meaningless. They say more about the reviewers experience, or lack of experience, than anything else. It all depends on the reviewers prior listening habits and the gear he has gotten used to. There is no common criteria among paid reviewers for rating performance of audio gear.

Price ranges for speakers are useful in this one sense. If you are shopping for $400/pair speakers, don't seriously compare them to $200 speakers or $800 speakers. Of course, its OK to listen to other price ranges if you aren't sure what price range you intend to focus on, but once you pick a price range, stick to it.

 

[herbu]

Is 200$ top graded speaker better than a 400$ 4stars/gradeB/call-it-what-you-want/next to the best in the line speaker?

You've hit on a tough question, and one with which many, (most), of us have dealt.

1. Yes, there is absolutely a "point of diminishing return" on speakers, and all other stuff. At the low end of the prices you can get a big improvement for a little more money. But as the prices get higher, it takes more and more money for a small improvement.

2. Sound is subjective. Everyone hears it differently, has their own preference and it cannot be measured. It is because of tone or timbre. Think about it this way... A piano, violin, guitar and trumpet can all play the same note, yet they sound quite different. Speakers are like that. Equipment can measure how accurately they play the note, but not which one sounds better.

So yes, the best answer is always to listen to all speakers and decide which ones you like the best. But that's not possible. Even listening to just the top recommended 2 or 3 can be quite difficult. So what to do?

This was my approach. I'm a common audio guy. I don't tune pianos for a living. I don't play first chair violin in an orchestra. I listen to all, (most), kinds of music. So I started reading forums about audio & speakers. I found patterns. There are speakers most people like, and speakers most people dislike.

Among the speakers most people like, it's easy to find people who prefer any one over any other one. And it's easy to find arguments over which is better. But even in those arguments, people still agree both are good.

I picked my budget and narrowed to speakers within that budget, and I looked for one particular thing. Could I find more than one opinion that a speaker was "bad"? Meaning, even if some people preferred a different speaker, did those people think my prospect was a lousy speaker?

That's my suggestion to you. Pick a budget. Read reviews AND common forum members opinions. Find speakers in your budget that nobody says are bad, even if some may prefer something else. Then, if you can actually listen to one or more within that list, do it. If not, consider shipping cost, warranty, return policy and customer service reputation. Pick one, and enjoy.

One last note. If your example is accurate and indeed $200 is your ballpark budget, you're very fortunate. There is one speaker for $200/pair that I think everyone agrees is the top choice. You can see it here: http://philharmonicaudio.com/aa.html

 

[Swerd]

herbu – excellent answer to the OP's question. Overall, I like it.

Because I have been wearing an "editor's hat" too much these past weeks, and because I've had my Saturday morning cups of coffee, I feel the need to 'improve' your answers, just a bit . Consider them suggestions rather than corrections.

Your point about diminishing returns as price increases is right. The only problem is that people have various different amounts of money to spend in their audio budgets. There is no single price point at which diminishing returns kicks in for everyone. Combine that with the widely varying preferences among people in speaker sound quality, and you quickly get confusion. The easy part is knowing how much money you want to spend. The hard part is recognizing what your own sound quality preferences are, and what prices get you there.

A much easier answer is to tell EVERYONE to stay calm and buy Philharmonic 3 speakers. The rest is easy.

 

[herbu]

There is no single price point at which diminishing returns kicks in for everyone.

Completely agree. In fact, that price point can be dynamic for the same person. As one's budget grows, so does his perspective on what is "worth it".

Killdozzer, all this simply means there is not an answer... there is a process. As your budget grows, you repeat the process with more money. And a good time was had by all!!!

 

[agarwalro]

Is 200$ top graded speaker better than a 400$ 4stars/gradeB/call-it-what-you-want/next to the best in the line speaker?

In addition to the excellent comments above, I'd like to point out that one can find the optimal value at every price point.

Some things are required for a good speaker. Robust drivers, correctly implemented crossover for said drivers, inert cabinet. Cost makes designers and manufactures compromise among these and additional considerations like aesthetics, advertising and distribution costs and the all all important, profit margin.

A good speaker will have the correct compromises, for example, no point having splendiferous bubinga wood veneer in a $1000 bookshelf. Instead, budget more on the drivers and crossover.

For example, the Philharmonic Audio AA Monitor play well beyond $200, Pioneer Andrew Jones FS-52 are considered excellent value speakers, Ascend Sierra 1, 2 bookshelf, Salk Sound Soundsscape speakers are highly regarded. The commonality among them: Correct compromise for the price point.

 

[killdozzer]

I really enjoyed all of your answers and yet gave likes to only a few. I hope no one minds, I did this only because I tried hard to move away from “whatever works for you”, but I still got a lot of answers in this fashion.

“Whatever works for you” leaves you with only one choice - to listen to all the speakers in the world no matter how bad they may be because you might like them. Of course I am over exaggerating here to portray the issue.

I am trying to narrow down the amount of work I need to do, not because I wouldn’t enjoy listening to a lot of speakers, but because it is very hard to get 25 brands bring their speakers at your doorstep for you to hear how they sound.

I agree very much on the tone/timbre aspect, but I still think a lot of rules apply to all instruments and speakers, as agarwalro said; bracing, drivers, cabinet construction, distortions etc. And this is what I’m interested in.

One more thing you might dislike is: I would rather take an advice from an experienced reviewer than believe in my choice alone. And here’s why; what if I’m SIMPLY use to listening to speakers with i.e. problems with “roll-off” at certain frequencies which are also lacking some hardly noticeable frequencies (at the end of the specter), so I think it’s fine, but if only I took an experienced HI FI expert’s word and bought something else I might discover a whole lot of pleasure of listening.

I could rule speakers out one by one on my own trough a VERY long period of time, or I might take 5 - 10 recommendations from “life-time experience” reviewers and choose among those. It’s not as if I’m going to buy the first thing someone at Hi Fi Choice magazine mentions. I can still pick and choose all that tone/timbre among good speakers rather than getting lost in nuances I know nothing about.

Think of it this way: you can’t really hear something MISSING unless you’ve heard it somewhere else. Imagine trying to choose the speakers with a CD that you’ve never heard before. This is what can happen to a novice, I might not know a speaker is lacking something and would like to be advised on such faults.

Once again: you see now how good is the, a fore mentioned advice from The Wirecutter saying: this product outperforms the competition even at a much higher price.

Or when you hear a person who unscrewed a 1000 speakers in his life saying; I’ve never seen such firm bracing or cabinet construction at this price range.

You won’t buy it immediately, of course, but you would be crazy not to audition the product. I’m not that easily persuaded, that’s probably why I feel comfortable in asking for advice, I’ll still pick what I like. I’ll just pick among the recommended stuff.

It’s the difference in whether it’s there to hear it and whether you like what you hear. I want it to be there (a good performance) and then I’ll pick one (and in the end it’ll even have to look good, I’m like that).

 

[killdozzer]

Philharmonic Audio AA Monitor play well beyond $200

Thanks for this man! Now, don't let this annoy you, but tell me, exactly how well beyond 200$ do they play? Are they better than KEF LS50? Do they reach at least as far as a 600$ B&W 685 (you may even think they are better than these)?

I usually stick to what I buy and this is why I am preparing like this is a marriage. I would hate to see I spent i.e. 400$ for something that a 200$ product would give me.

I actually think that "best buy" is a universal standard. Rather then finding it in every price range, I look for one where quality and price are the furthest. So, even if I had a 1000$ for speakers, I would gladly buy the 700$ ones if they are a better buy. I'm not going for the highest amount I can spend simply because the more that's left, the more I have for, I don't know, DAC, stands, pricier turntable cartridge and so on.

Thanks!

 

[herbu]

I might take 5 - 10 recommendations from “life-time experience” reviewers and choose among those.

One key thing to look for. You'll see a lot of, "I like this one better than that one". In every case, it is just that one person's opinion. But if you look for, "I don't like that one", it may help.

I would only add speakers to your list for which you can't find anybody reliable who says, "I don't like that one". At least you'll know your list is all good, and simply a matter of preference.

And no matter how much research you do, and what your criteria is, you'll never be able to quantify or evaluate personal preference. But you can assure getting something every agrees is good.

If the AAs are in your budget, search this forum and read everything you can find about them. For $200/pair, you might be surprised. I am seriously considering replacing the 4x $1k/each towers I use for surrounds with them.

 

[agarwalro]

Thanks for this man! Now, don't let this annoy you, but tell me, exactly how well beyond 200$ do they play? Are they better than KEF LS50? Do they reach at least as far as a 600$ B&W 685 (you may even think they are better than these)?

Hardly annoying, quite the opposite. This question is where things get less cut and dry.

Going by a highly unscientific comparison of the AA to Sierra 2, all I can say is, the AA distort at lower volumes, but, play deeper bass. Nether of these observations is an epiphany, rather, obvious based off drivers and cabinet construction. My X4000 is in repair. When I get it back, I'll be comparing the AA + Yamaha to Sierra 2 + Denon. Talk about David vs Goliath .

Good speakers designs that are built correctly, seem to sound similar with differences revealing the compromises in one or other. To make any comparison one needs the speakers side by side, at minimum, with a reasonable amount of biases controlled. So, one does not need to go full ABX-DBT to compare two $500 speakers, but, a good source and recording, level matching amps and a quick switching mechanism are required. I like how Kurt compared several bookshelf speakers earlier. Two identical receivers in Pure Direct mode one to each pair. A simple mute button on the remote enabled the quick switching between the two receivers and I'm effect, speakers. Pure genius!

I usually stick to what I buy and this is why I am preparing like this is a marriage. I would hate to see I spent i.e. 400$ for something that a 200$ product would give me.

Yeah, I'm like that too. Once I buy, in the absence of glaring issues, the bought item is for keeps. I research obsessively before buying anything. Sometimes it gives me analysis paralysis and I still get buyers remorse. Yet, that's me .

I actually think that "best buy" is a universal standard. Rather then finding it in every price range, I look for one where quality and price are the furthest. So, even if I had a 1000$ for speakers, I would gladly buy the 700$ ones if they are a better buy. I'm not going for the highest amount I can spend simply because the more that's left, the more I have for, I don't know, DAC, stands, pricier turntable cartridge and so on.

The higher cost is better philosophy has been used very effectively by snake oil peddlers. I'd rather buy a $1500 speaker with aluminium foil tweeters than a $5k power cable with pixy dust that'll make the midrange decadent chocolaty smooth.

 

[killdozzer]

I would only add speakers to your list for which you can't find anybody reliable who says, "I don't like that one". At least you'll know your list is all good, and simply a matter of preference.

If the AAs are in your budget, search this forum and read everything you can find about them. For $200/pair, you might be surprised. I am seriously considering replacing the 4x $1k/each towers I use for surrounds with them.

Aaa, this is the stuff! I am about to make a huge leap from very cheap audio system to a solid entry level. So what I want is to be sure that speakers performs well… technically so to speak… And then I’ll just listen to what I like and that will be it. I don’t want to be misled by my (perhaps) poor listening habits only to be sorry later on.


That was exactly why I asked about a 5star 200$ vs. 4star 400$ or 600$ pair of speakers. I see a lot of listeners from all walks of life tend to rate equipment in regards to what it cost. I have an excellent example of this; one amplifier got poor grades all around because it costs a lot. The same construction for less money got excellent reviews. (And this is the real case, it is the same construction, it is the same brand using same components in two units one of which is a sort of “anniversary edition” so it is a bit more glamorous but same heart for a lot more money.) And the same construction for more money got terrible reviews. But this would mean that if you manage to find the anniversary edition at lower price you got yourself an excellent deal, which is a bit crazy. Where did all the faults go? Right?


So the fact was that this unit actually underperformed for the money asked, but wasn’t bad at all if you find it 30% off.

 

[killdozzer]

To make any comparison one needs the speakers side by side, at minimum, with a reasonable amount of biases controlled.

Yeah, this is the case! And if you're not able to do that, you find yourself looking for someone who did it already (for himself or some magazine or whatever). You're looking for someone to tell you; "OK, not saying which I like best but these are performing perfectly for a 600$ speaker and you go and choose what you enjoy best, they have no great flaws".

To answer your question, AA's are in my budget, but they don't sell where I live. And this was one more reason to ask this. Not everything is available. So sometime it's the choice between 5star QAcoustics new 3020 and not quite 5star Tannoy Mercury V1-i.

Thanks man!

 

[Swerd]

You said, “I usually stick to what I buy and this is why I am preparing like this is a marriage.” I guess this challenged me to respond.

In loudspeaker preference, as in spouse selection, most of us aren’t born knowing what we like. I understand your general concern, you want to find a more rational method for speaker selection than “to listen to all the speakers in the world no matter how bad they may be because you might like them”.

You first have to understand what you like and what you don’t like. Do you like bass heavy sounding speakers, highly detailed even delicate sounding speakers, or something in between? Consider this a broad spectrum, and those descriptions are only several points on it. The only way I know how to determine this is to listen to enough speakers. You’ll quickly learn what you don’t like, and you’ll more slowly arrive at what you can live with for a long time.

I can’t tell you what you’ll like. After all, it takes all kinds to fill the freeway, and that’s why there are so many different speakers in the market. But I can tell you what I like, what features I look for in a speaker, and what price ranges deliver it:

• Flat frequency response over most of the audio range is desirable. Exaggerated bass or bright treble may sound attractive at first, but I know I won’t like it over the long run. Many speakers feature this and their frequency response curve looks like a smile. It helps these speakers sound different from their competition in the store, but in the long run, it makes for a poor marriage.
  
  In addition to flat frequency response directly in front of a speaker (on-axis), a good sounding speaker must disperse sound in as wide an angle as possible (off-axis), while maintaining a flat frequency response. This fills a room, and in stereo, is largely responsible for creating realistic sound images of musicians who seem to be located outside of the speaker cabinets.
  
  
• Contrary to what most people think, the midrange is the most important. If a speaker fails at reproducing the human voice with clear realism, it fails at all midrange tones. Our ears are most sensitive to changes in sound across voice recognition range – most of the midrange. Listen to music with single voices, piano, or unamplified guitar. All of us should be familiar with how they should sound, natural and clear. They should not sound “recessed” as if the midrange can’t keep up with the loud bass. It also shouldn’t sound “etched” as if it had detail over and above reality. It shouldn’t sound exaggerated or too much in your face, like nasal, “shouty”, or brassy.
  
  In speakers with a flat frequency response, the midrange should be as flat as possible from about 250 to 5000 Hz. There should be no peaks, plateaus, or valleys.
  
  
• Many bookshelf speakers can deliver an honest bass response down as low as about 50 Hz. Larger floor standing models, can go lower, down as low as 35 Hz. To go lower, you will pay much higher prices.
  
  Bass can be honest or exaggerated depending on how the bass driver(s) and cabinet are tuned. Listen on FM radio (if you can) for a male announcer’s voice. Does it sound natural, or too bassy or boomy? That is a sign of a speaker with exaggerated bass, where the cabinet is deliberately tuned to produce elevated bass in the range of 70-120 Hz. If you see a frequency response curve, this region will have a rather large hump in the response.
  
  Most speakers designed with exaggerated bass have a total cabinet Q, (Qtc) of 1.0 or higher. (Q is a mathematically derived ratio that describes a roll-off slope.) This can deliver greater bass from a smaller cabinet or from a less potent woofer, but you still pay a price for it. Bass from a single note will linger if Q is 1.0 or higher. After a note is hit, it continues for a while before it stops – it rings like a bell. In most rock music with repetitive bass guitar, this isn’t always noticeable. But it does muddy up the bass and lower midrange. In other types of music, it is readily heard, and usually objectionable. Many car audio systems do this. If Q is less than 1, about 0.7, this ringing is nearly absent, and if Q is 0.5, it’s not present at all. In these low Q speakers, bass is well-damped and has a characteristic sound often called “dry” or “lean”. I haven’t heard high Q bass called “wet” sounding, but it has been called “fat”. I’d rather call it muddy.
  
  I would guess that more people are used to hearing high Q bass in speakers than any other single feature. When they first hear a speaker with well-damped non-muddy sounding bass, many think the speaker lacks bass, or that it sounds too bright. Depending on what you have previously gotten used to hearing, it can take some time to adjust to it. Once you do, going back to a speaker with high Q sounds like a muddy mess.
  
  
• Treble is more difficult to discuss because you never listen to just a tweeter. The most important thing about any tweeter is that it must be smoothly integrated with the woofer or midrange by the crossover. Just how well that succeeds or fails is what distinguishes a well-designed crossover from a poor one. I could go on quite a bit on this topic. But if you think of it as an extension of the midrange, you won’t go wrong. It should sound natural and not call itself to your attention. It’s alright if a trumpet sounds brassy, but not if it sounds sibilant, glassy, or brittle.
  
  
• Bottom line. I find that bookshelf speakers in the price range of $800 to $1200 per pair can deliver flat frequency response, as well as the other features I described above. Most of these are made by small speaker makers and sold Internet Direct. I can highly recommend speakers made by Philharmonic Audio, Salk, and Ascend Audio. There are others that I am less familiar with but are well regarded, like SVS, EMP, or NHT. I would stay away from the highly advertised brands sold in retail stores, such as the B&W 600 or CM series (their 800 series is very good and very expensive) or Paradigm. KEF, such as the LS50, seems to be pretty good. You will pay a higher price for these brands because of the retail store/distributor mark up. In lower price ranges, there are a few notable good performers, such as the Affordable Accuracy speakers sold by Philharmonic Audio. But at those lower prices you will give up something that may or may not matter to you individually.
  
  For floor standing models, I personally find that speakers in $2000 per pair and higher price range deliver flat frequency response as well. Again, I recommend the same ID makers as above.

Like I said at the start, this is what I like. Your mileage may vary .

 

[agarwalro]

That was exactly why I asked about a 5star 200$ vs. 4star 400$ or 600$ pair of speakers. I see a lot of listeners from all walks of life tend to rate equipment in regards to what it cost. I have an excellent example of this; one amplifier got poor grades all around because it costs a lot. The same construction for less money got excellent reviews. (And this is the real case, it is the same construction, it is the same brand using same components in two units one of which is a sort of “anniversary edition” so it is a bit more glamorous but same heart for a lot more money.) And the same construction for more money got terrible reviews. But this would mean that if you manage to find the anniversary edition at lower price you got yourself an excellent deal, which is a bit crazy. Where did all the faults go? Right?

You have to remember that as price goes up, the expectation go up. At some point, the cost goes up exponentially for incremental gains, aka. "law of diminishing returns". This is why taking about value without a price is meaningless.

I'm a fool to expect AA will outperform the Sierra 2 as a package or ignorant if I genuinely believe it. Yet, without even doing a direct comparison I can tell you, there is no way the S2 give me a 7x bump in sound. Wtf is a 7x bump in sound compared to AA anyway?

To answer your question, AA's are in my budget, but they don't sell where I live. And this was one more reason to ask this. Not everything is available.

Where are you located what which brands to you have available?

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

All great points above, but I hope I can , maybe a bit crudely, but simplify it a bit.
This is based on my own experiences, reading tons of audio info and years of hanging out here on these forums:

Based on extensive Harman research - most people prefer speakers which measured flat or neutral.

Beyond that - due to age related loss hearing most people naturally lose sensitivity to higher frequencies and may subjectively prefer speaker which makes emthasis on high frequencies - some may call it too bright, others seem to like them a lot. It's easy to know this for fact - just visit ear doctor and have your ears tested first

So if you can't audition every speaker in the world - start with speakers in your budget which measure closest to flat - while completely disregard so called rating and scores.

To my point some of my (and not just me by far) favorite speakers are very accurate. I never heard speaker as good as Salk SS8 - please do look at it's measurement.

Remember - flat is accurate, not boring. Your music choices could be boring , not your speaker

I know I am way oversimplifying some things, but I think most agree that this could be good starting point.

p.s: Reading measurement could be tricky as many vendors play games with their graphs - I think AH has few good articles which will help you read them easier, and not get easily fooled.

 

[shadyJ]

You said, “I usually stick to what I buy and this is why I am preparing like this is a marriage.” I guess this challenged me to respond....

Epic post Swerd! the OP ought to send you a check for that (or at least a small donation to a charity of your choice). One thing I would add is I think many times speakers get unfairly criticized for 'faults' of the recording. Recordings can make bass boomy, treble harsh, and mids recessed. The only way to fairly judge a speaker is to demo music you are intimately familiar with in a reasonably good or at least well-known room, or A/B speakers back to back, or look at a comprehensive set of measurements. For this reason I think trying to judge a speaker from a brief demo with a recording that isn't well-known to the listener in a room that the speaker hasn't been integrated with is absurd, unless the problem with the speaker is obvious.

 

[Swerd]

Based on extensive Harman research - most people prefer speakers which measured flat or neutral.

Remember - flat is accurate, not boring. Your music choices could be boring , not your speaker

I've known DIY builders who struggled with this. They made a speaker with a flat on-axis FR curve, but it sounded bad – like all the life was sucked out of its sound. The off-axis FR had large dips in the upper midrange. It is easier said than done to design a crossover that has a flat frequency response both on- and off-axis.

Epic post Swerd! the OP ought to send you a check for that (or at least a small donation to a charity of your choice).

The only way to fairly judge a speaker is to demo music you are intimately familiar with in a reasonably good or at least well-known room, or A/B speakers back to back

Very important point. I think I meant to mention using familiar demo music, but forgot it as I wrote my epic.

I am my own favorite charity . The OP, or any other appreciative reader, can send a check made out to the Swerd Benevolent Speaker Upgrade Fund. The goal, depending on how many appreciative readers there are , is a Salk Veracity ST or HT2-TL.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

I've known DIY builders who struggled with this. They made a speaker with a flat on-axis FR curve, but it sounded bad – like all the life was sucked out of its sound. The off-axis FR had large dips in the upper midrange. It is easier said than done to design a crossover that has a flat frequency response both on- and off-axis.

Yes, good point. Let me adjust previous statement - flat on both on axis and off - or as much as possible and as much as your budget allows