DIY subwoofer question...yes another one...

fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I've seen a lot of people use PL because it has expansion properties. That is it enables someone to be sloppy on their joinery.

Bottom line is accurate cuts and dado's simply need Tightbond original or some other same type wood glue.
True, some do. However, it will work the equally as well as wood glue. Some find it easier to work with. I would recommend trying each and seeing which the OP prefers.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Either can be used. PL is expensive and I don't think needed. My Statements at 128 lbs per are dado and Tightbond only.
 
N

Nestor

Senior Audioholic
I've seen a lot of people use PL because it has expansion properties. That is it enables someone to be sloppy on their joinery.

Bottom line is accurate cuts and dado's simply need Tightbond original or some other same type wood glue.
As with anything, it depends on the application. On smaller, simple builds where the joints are accessible, wood glue will suffice, and caulking can be used later if need be.

On larger, more complex builds where joinery may be inaccessible after assembly, PL all but guarantees an airtight joint.

Both cases are assuming accurate cuts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
As with anything, it depends on the application. On smaller, simple builds where the joints are accessible, wood glue will suffice, and caulking can be used later if need be.

On larger, more complex builds where joinery may be inaccessible after assembly, PL all but guarantees an airtight joint.
If I were building a big folded horn sub I would certainly use PL or like adhesive. You only get one shot with those monsters :)
 
ARES24

ARES24

Full Audioholic
Sloppy cuts.... take some pride in your work!!!

I find PL, at least the versions I have used, to be more difficult to work with. It also doesn't stain at all where as some glues will. In a small line between pieces glue can be made to 'disappear' in the staining process.
I haven't used the water soluble kind before that would make clean up a lot easier. Any mistakes would require careful sanding otherwise.
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
Just to clarify...
I will be using titebond II, and dado joints...the cabinet will be strong as hell....over engineered as much as possible...
I did not know there would be such a debate between Titebond and PL...
I am almost done with the woodworking projects needed to allow me to build the subwoofers...which was 1 full size platform bed out of redwood..DONE....1 queen size platform bed out of cherry...will be done by sunday...1 coffee table out of quarter sawn white oak...will be done by sunday...
Should be starting the cabinet build this weekend...
YES...i will take pics and post them...
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Just to clarify...
I will be using titebond II, and dado joints...the cabinet will be strong as hell....over engineered as much as possible...
I did not know there would be such a debate between Titebond and PL...
I am almost done with the woodworking projects needed to allow me to build the subwoofers...which was 1 full size platform bed out of redwood..DONE....1 queen size platform bed out of cherry...will be done by sunday...1 coffee table out of quarter sawn white oak...will be done by sunday...
Should be starting the cabinet build this weekend...
YES...i will take pics and post them...
I think ultimately it comes down to personal preference. I know folks that actually prefer PL as crazy as that might sound to a Titebond loyalist.
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
OK...
progress pics...
Started the build this weekend...
Got the Baltic birch cut down and all of the cabinet pieces cut...
Cut all of the dado's....
got all of the internal braces cut and the baffles cut out...
Test fitted the 1260's and the fit is spot on...
cut out the flush baffle also...
Tomorrow is time to start gluing up the cabinets...
Now i just need to figure out how to upload smaller pics...the ones I have are too large...
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
Really look forward to hooking them up for the first time...
 
ARES24

ARES24

Full Audioholic
When I did my sub I 'tested' it before doing the finish. It was a bad idea, it took me almost a month to take the driver back out to start painting :confused::D
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
Finished putting them together this evening...
Now i just need to figure out how to set up the Crown XLS1500 amp...
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jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Nice builds. Make sure you polly-fill'd them about 3lbs each.
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
I am very pleased with the end result...
They sound awesome...
They are very solid...
The have no vibration at all on the cabinet...
I can see how this could become habit forming....
The idea of well next time i will try this and it will be even better than these....!!!
Next time i would use furniture cabinet grade plywood, not baltic birch, and hide the plywood edge...
Thanks for all of you help....
 
R

rspacher

Audioholic Intern
Nice builds. Make sure you polly-fill'd them about 3lbs each.
I put in about 1.5 lbs in each one...

Need help trying to pin down some amp hum...
I have tried all the usual stuff disconnecting the TV/satelite dish cable /power...
The amp hum is coming through the other speakers, not the sub...at least as far as i can tell...
The hum only occurs when i connect the Crown XLS1500 to the receiver, using the SUB1 and SUB2 out plugs...
I plug them in the channel 1 and channel 2 inputs on the crown amp...
it hums when either one of them is connected...
The hum disappears when these are not connected...
 
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