$15000 budget for 7 speakers and separates

[RichB]

I thought Class A amps are much clearer and more appropriate for tweeter/midrange but not necessarily for woofer where you don't need that much of clarity. Right?

Class-A amps can show less intermodulation distortion but the question remains is this audible?
Personally, I am not sure. Well built amps should sound the same.
ATI are well built amps.

You can watch the AH video on the subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZUCoK4qyls

If you want more class-a bias, there are Parasound amps and deals can be found...
AVScience has them a discount but there are other sources as well.

- Rich

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I understand that I shouldn't drive the drivers more than the manufacturer power ratings when it comes to active amping and that is my concern with the woofer connected to AT3007. But what if I reduced the dB gain on the active crossover? will that protect it or reduce the wattage going to it? If yes, do you know how much dB gain should I reduce?

I was thinking if I'm going to go with Class AB for Tweeters + Mids, I was going for 1 AT1804 4ch amp instead of ordering 2 amps. And to reduce the wattage going to those drivers, by reducing the dB gain, will that work? If yes, do you know how much dB should I reduce?

What did XTZ recommend for power amp range?

Most active 10" woofers can probably handle 180-250W of power. So the AT3000 amp should be okay for the woofers.

I would just keep the internal speaker passive XO for the midrange and tweeter and actively power only the woofers.

 

[uaeproz]

I would just keep the internal speaker passive XO for the midrange and tweeter and actively power only the woofers.

That is exactly what XTZ recommended.


However, I would still need another amp if I will go this way. Yet, I want to experiment with full active amping. What are your thoughts about having 1 AT6004 instead of two amps?

 

[uaeproz]

Class-A amps can show less intermodulation distortion but the question remains is this audible?
Personally, I am not sure. Well built amps should sound the same.
ATI are well built amps.

You can watch the AH video on the subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZUCoK4qyls

If you want more class-a bias, there are Parasound amps and deals can be found...
AVScience has them a discount but there are other sources as well.

- Rich

Thanks Rich!

I'll go for Class AB and probably from ATI. I just need to determine which one. I'm inclined toward 1 AT6004 4ch amp instead of having 2 stereo amps.

Any one knows what dB level on the crossover should I set it at? in order to reduce the wattage to protect the drivers? Any formula?

 

[walter duque]

Yeah, the word "active" can be misleading.

Like Rich says, "Active" refers to the crossover or "system. An "active" speaker does not need to have an amp inside it. For example, the Linkwitz Orion is an active speaker, but both the crossover and amps are external (each speaker requires 4 external amps).

A "powered" loudspeaker does in fact have at least one internal amp. But NOT all "powered" speakers are 100% active.

For example, some "powered" speakers have one amp just for the active woofer, but the midrange and tweeter are passive.

Confusing as hell, isn't it?

I knew that, I don't know what I was thinking. I guess running a hotel kitchen and posting just don't mix.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

That is exactly what XTZ recommended.

However, I would still need another amp if I will go this way. Yet, I want to experiment with full active amping. What are your thoughts about having 1 AT6004 instead of two amps?

You mean one AT1804 amp? I think it should be okay as long as you don't try to play over 95dB from 4m distance.

 

[walter duque]

You mean one AT1804 amp? I think it should be okay as long as you don't try to play over 95dB from 4m distance.

95db max. for that kind of investment seems a little low, don't you think?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

95db max. for that kind of investment seems a little low, don't you think?

Well, I was just airing on the safe side - at least initially to start off. Probably don't want to start them off at 110dB right off the bat. I don't know what the max output is for those speakers - probably a lot more. But for me, 95dB from 4 meters distance is very loud. My ears couldn't take more than that without hurting.

 

[uaeproz]

You mean one AT1804 amp? I think it should be okay as long as you don't try to play over 95dB from 4m distance.

Yeah, I meant AT1804

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Yeah, I meant AT1804

The Linkwitz Orion active can handle 180-200WPC for each driver. In fact, one of the amps they recommend most is the ATI AT1800 series. So I think the AT1804 should be good.

 

[uaeproz]

The Linkwitz Orion active can handle 180-200WPC for each driver. In fact, one of the amps they recommend most is the ATI AT1800 series. So I think the AT1804 should be good.

The mid is rated 120w RMS & tweeter is rated 80w RMS but this amp is producing 180w RMS, will that be safe?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

The mid is rated 120w RMS & tweeter is rated 80w RMS but this amp is producing 180w RMS, will that be safe?

Really, as long as you don't go crazy on the volume, I think it is safe.

When the Orion came out, Linkwitz recommended the AT6012 (60W). But soon after, he said the AT1800 amps would be okay.

 

[walter duque]

Why would you get speakers where you always have to be on the edge of damaging them? My last center was rated at 220 watts max, I hit that center with 1000 watts and never had a problem, and I do listen to my system at insane volumes at times.

 

[uaeproz]

Really, as long as you don't go crazy on the volume, I think it is safe.

When the Orion came out, Linkwitz recommended the AT6012 (60W). But soon after, he said the AT1800 amps would be okay.

Why would you get speakers where you always have to be on the edge of damaging them? My last center was rated at 220 watts max, I hit that center with 1000 watts and never problem and I do listen to my system at insane volumes at times.

Those speakers were "active" amped?

 

[crossedover]

The mid is rated 120w RMS & tweeter is rated 80w RMS but this amp is producing 180w RMS, will that be safe?

Your kinda over thinking this. If you feed the tweeters 80w continuously you would be slightly over a 100dbs at 15 feet. That's loud in the upper frequencies. Most program material will not call for that kind of taxing load.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Why would you get speakers where you always have to be on the edge of damaging them? My last center was rated at 220 watts max, I hit that center with 1000 watts and never problem and I do listen to my system at insane volumes at times.

One drawback to having active speakers.

That is why XTZ recommended that he just actively power the woofers (which can hamdle a lot more power) and just leave the tweeter and midrange passive.

That's why most speakers are passive. It's safer. Of course, some people still damage their passive speakers for whatever reasons.

 

[RichB]

One drawback to having active speakers.
That's why most speakers are passive. It's safer. Of course, some people still damage their passive speakers for whatever reasons.

Hey, that was not my fault, it was the midrange design I tell you

- Rich

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Those speakers were "active" amped?

The Orion are Actively quad-amped. That is why Linkwitz recommended only 60WPC (AT6012) at first. But then people complained 60W seemed too low. So then Linkwitz gave in and said 180W (AT1800) was okay, but no more than that!

But Walter's speakers (using 1000W amp) are PASSIVE.

My new RBH SX-T2/R towers will be Passive for the Midrange drivers and Tweeters, but Active for the Woofers. I don't really see the advantages to having active midrange and tweeter since they don't require that much power.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Hey, that was not my fault, it was the midrange design I tell you

- Rich

And that's why I said "for whatever reasons".

Sometimes it is just not your fault.

That's why most active speakers and subwoofers either have their own amps internally or come with their own specific amps! Manufacturers don't want people damaging the active drivers with various amps.

If all speakers were active and did not come with internal amps, there would be a lot more people blowing speakers, especially if they used 1000W amps.

 

[uaeproz]

Your kinda over thinking this. If you feed the tweeters 80w continuously you would be slightly over a 100dbs at 15 feet. That's loud in the upper frequencies. Most program material will not call for that kind of taxing load.

Is there any way to avoid overloading the tweeters? some sort of way or perhaps a device to tune/limit the wattage going to the tweeters?