Yamaha RX-V6A/TSR-700 views?

[snakeeyes]

I asked Yamaha about the controller app and was sent some information as well as this pic. View attachment 42652

When I open Musiccast app, I’m not seeing that black controller area for my RXA2060, so must be specific to newer models. (Assuming you see it on yours...)

 

[snakeeyes]

I will say the Tidal experience through the MusicCast app is better than on the Onkyo Controller app as artist and album pics are present while searching for them and not just during playback as it is so with the Onkyo. I just want the option to use the physical remote control for music streaming if I am sitting in front of the system and not be forced to use a Smart device. I can do this with the Onkyo but not with the Yamaha save for Spotify.

Maybe the goal is no physical remote? LOL . I saw some Vizio TVs that only have phone apps for remotes.

 

[Trebdp83]

Yeah, I see where they want everything to go. Make people pay more for less product and have them spend on expensive internet service and smart devices. They started with the omission of manuals.

 

[Trebdp83]

So, in MusicCast, try any music app. Play a track. Now, while playing track go to the bottom right corner of the smart phone screen and touch the sound settings icon. The sound settings will come up. Scroll down the list. The remote control function is hiding second from the bottom of the list. Is it there for you?

 

[snakeeyes]

So, in MusicCast, try any music app. Play a track. Now, while playing track go to the bottom right corner of the smart phone screen and touch the sound settings icon. The sound settings will come up. Scroll down the list. The remote control function is hiding second from the bottom of the list. Is it there for you?

Yes that worked. I had no idea that was even there....

 

[Trebdp83]

Joy!

 

[snakeeyes]

Joy!

The other remote app is better but a lot of the same functionality is now integrated on Musiccast app but it is hidden where I would not expect it to be. LOL

 

[Ted M]

Purchased this TSR700 at Costco last November 28, 2020. Was doing great until today, December 7, 2020, when the HDMI output totally went dead. Verified HDMI cables, TV, and Firestick for problems but all were ok except the AVR itself. The unit is hooked up to a Panamax MR4000 power conditioner, so voltage spikes could not have been the cause. The unit even has an Aircom S10 cooling system so overheating could not have been an issue likewise. Also, I have noticed (when it was operational) that it took a long time to detect the WIFI signal. Thus I had no option but to use USB for the update. Also noticed that when switching to different settings (straight, pure direct, enhancer and surround decode) it intermittently will display the NOT AVAILABLE message until you turn off the unit on back on again. Is this normal? Returning this unit back. Could this unit just be a fluke or the entire line have problems. Not just the banding issue.

 

[snakeeyes]

Purchased this TSR700 at Costco last November 28, 2020. Was doing great until today, December 7, 2020, when the HDMI output totally went dead. Verified HDMI cables, TV, and Firestick for problems but all were ok except the AVR itself. The unit is hooked up to a Panamax MR4000 power conditioner, so voltage spikes could not have been the cause. The unit even has an Aircom S10 cooling system so overheating could not have been an issue likewise. Also, I have noticed (when it was operational) that it took a long time to detect the WIFI signal. Thus I had no option but to use USB for the update. Also noticed that when switching to different settings (straight, pure direct, enhancer and surround decode) it intermittently will display the NOT AVAILABLE message until you turn off the unit on back on again. Is this normal? Returning this unit back. Could this unit just be a fluke or the entire line have problems. Not just the banding issue.

As far as the WiFi, might be worth trying to hard wire Ethernet to router and see if stabilizes or not.

I have a different older Yamaha RXA2060 but I like to wire my Ethernet to my home router. I also have Firestick 4K and that is also wired to my home router and hdmi to the Yamaha.

For another room I run a cat5e from my router in the other room (across garage) to a cheap linksys switch and wire devices to that switch. RXA770 and Firestick 4K.

For my bedroom I do run WiFi on Yamaha RXV681 and Firestick 4K. It’s been stable but I did get a larger WiFi router than my original one a couple years ago when I set it up.

 

[Trebdp83]

Purchased this TSR700 at Costco last November 28, 2020. Was doing great until today, December 7, 2020, when the HDMI output totally went dead. Verified HDMI cables, TV, and Firestick for problems but all were ok except the AVR itself. The unit is hooked up to a Panamax MR4000 power conditioner, so voltage spikes could not have been the cause. The unit even has an Aircom S10 cooling system so overheating could not have been an issue likewise. Also, I have noticed (when it was operational) that it took a long time to detect the WIFI signal. Thus I had no option but to use USB for the update. Also noticed that when switching to different settings (straight, pure direct, enhancer and surround decode) it intermittently will display the NOT AVAILABLE message until you turn off the unit on back on again. Is this normal? Returning this unit back. Could this unit just be a fluke or the entire line have problems. Not just the banding issue.

Costco has a great return policy. Just take it back in the box with all of the accessories. Make sure to register it with Yamaha and give Yamaha support feedback before doing so. Any information they get about issues with the new models can only help them in trying to fix them. For whatever reason, my TSR-700 was a dog before and after the bug fix firmware update and I returned it to Costco. The RX-V6A improved dramatically after the firmware update. That has been my personal experience and results will vary.

 

[XenoChron]

Quick question on this TSR700/V6A. Can you run the full bass through the front speakers and the sub? When I set front to large I get no sub output so of course as small it does use sub but cross over then pulls the bass from fronts as it should. Can I or should I want it to use both?

Seems I recall everything should be set small but if you’ve got good bass output from fronts wouldn’t it make sense to keep it there as well or just skip it and let the sub do all the work?


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[Trebdp83]

You can tinker with it. You can keep the fronts small and lower the crossover to 40hz and see how you like it. It may or may not mesh well with the sub and you can adjust the LPF of the sub as well. 80hz with a 120hz LPF works well for many but it’s not a rule.

 

[snakeeyes]

Quick question on this TSR700/V6A. Can you run the full bass through the front speakers and the sub? When I set front to large I get no sub output so of course as small it does use sub but cross over then pulls the bass from fronts as it should. Can I or should I want it to use both?

Seems I recall everything should be set small but if you’ve got good bass output from fronts wouldn’t it make sense to keep it there as well or just skip it and let the sub do all the work?


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The manual pdf should be on the Yamaha website for your specific model but I’m pretty sure you need to set the main speakers to small and set to 80hz or 90hz or 100hz. I see you have an SVS sub so you have a good sub. Let it do the work. What are the main speakers?

The Yamahas don’t support bass “both”. They did have that setting back 15 years ago. My 2003 had that. . My 2016 Yamaha doesn’t.

 

[XenoChron]

The both option was what I was wondering about and doesn’t seem to do it but probably not necessary sounds like. I do have the crossover set to 80.

I have a set of Elac Debut 2.0 6.5 towers and the PC-2000 pro and they sound good together particular at louder listening levels. I didn’t realize how bad my old speakers were in the upper ranges until I heard the Elacs. My old ones though has dual 8 woofers and really seemed to do well with the bass but don’t hold a candle to the SVS sub.

I picked up a pair of Klipsch RP-8000F’s to compare to the Elac towers. They were on sale and easy to return so figured I’d give them a test run. They came tonight but I won’t get a chance to try them side-by-side until this weekend. Hopefully they are OK and not damaged as UPS thought I was OK to deliver them tonight in a snow storm in the back of an open pick up (seriously I’m not kidding). Boxes were wet and punctured and torn so I am documenting everything including the unboxing just in case. If bad I’ll have to drive them down to my local BB and return.

I know they are more money and supposedly better but very curious how they compare with the sub in the picture vs as standalone towers. My gut tells me the difference in price won’t be warranted if I’m not using then low end capabilities of the Klipsch but we will see. Guess I wanted to prove to myself what the difference is.

On a side note, I watched Tenet last night which was the first real new movie since COVID struck and was sorely disappointed with the dialog and vocals in it. I’ve not had this trouble with other movies and I tried the dialog lift setting but it didn’t seem to help much. Is this just a poorly done mix or am I missing something perhaps with my setup? I was steaming it and didn’t realize until today neither Apple TV of Vudu seem to have an Atmos mix. I can’t try my UHD disc until Christmas to compare. unfortunately the audio in this movie had dialog that reminded me of watching another Nolan movie and trying to understand Band in Batman. It was that bad. I had to turn subtitles on in parts.


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[XenoChron]

You can tinker with it. You can keep the fronts small and lower the crossover to 40hz and see how you like it. It may or may not mesh well with the sub and you can adjust the LPF of the sub as well. 80hz with a 120hz LPF works well for many but it’s not a rule.

Your talking about the LPF on the sub? Doesn’t the 80hz crossovers stop the signals above that negating the LPF? Sounds like I misunderstand how that works.


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[XenoChron]

Oops that was BANE in Batman. No bands in there that I recall.


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[Trebdp83]

Unfortunately, there is only the 5.1 DTS HD MASTER AUDIO track on disc for Tenet. It’s crazy loud and though the bass and effects can be fun, it does nothing for dialogue intelligibility.

 

[XenoChron]

I’d personal like to take the guy who mixed it and kick his rear end. It’s atrocious but it does workout the sub.

Glad it isn’t just me though.

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[snakeeyes]

The both option was what I was wondering about and doesn’t seem to do it but probably not necessary sounds like. I do have the crossover set to 80.

I have a set of Elac Debut 2.0 6.5 towers and the PC-2000 pro and they sound good together particular at louder listening levels. I didn’t realize how bad my old speakers were in the upper ranges until I heard the Elacs. My old ones though has dual 8 woofers and really seemed to do well with the bass but don’t hold a candle to the SVS sub.

I picked up a pair of Klipsch RP-8000F’s to compare to the Elac towers. They were on sale and easy to return so figured I’d give them a test run. They came tonight but I won’t get a chance to try them side-by-side until this weekend. Hopefully they are OK and not damaged as UPS thought I was OK to deliver them tonight in a snow storm in the back of an open pick up (seriously I’m not kidding). Boxes were wet and punctured and torn so I am documenting everything including the unboxing just in case. If bad I’ll have to drive them down to my local BB and return.

I know they are more money and supposedly better but very curious how they compare with the sub in the picture vs as standalone towers. My gut tells me the difference in price won’t be warranted if I’m not using then low end capabilities of the Klipsch but we will see. Guess I wanted to prove to myself what the difference is.

On a side note, I watched Tenet last night which was the first real new movie since COVID struck and was sorely disappointed with the dialog and vocals in it. I’ve not had this trouble with other movies and I tried the dialog lift setting but it didn’t seem to help much. Is this just a poorly done mix or am I missing something perhaps with my setup? I was steaming it and didn’t realize until today neither Apple TV of Vudu seem to have an Atmos mix. I can’t try my UHD disc until Christmas to compare. unfortunately the audio in this movie had dialog that reminded me of watching another Nolan movie and trying to understand Band in Batman. It was that bad. I had to turn subtitles on in parts.


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You might just walk through all the crossover settings for the mains. That SVS won’t distort at even 120hz. Try 80 thru 120 and get an idea of what it means in terms of letting the sub do some of that work.

What’s the center speaker? Speech from movies will come from the center speaker. A lot of people skimp on the center but it’s an important speaker.

 

[mazersteven]

Totally different speakers