Why not subs with outboard amps?

[MrBoat]

Yeah, I rely more on my max volume setting in the avr than setting a limit on my sub amps, and more on my own use of the master volume control. I rarely get it to the clipping point these days. I'm the only one who uses my gear, too.

I agree. Like anything else it becomes second nature soon enough. I end up taking it for granted that I have a separate sub amp until dialing in a new driver. It's nice to not have to think about plate amps when perusing different sub designs. The plate amp is where I always had trouble, budget wise, not wanting to compensate much there, but the price to performance level was often a catch or an off compromise.

 

[lovinthehd]

I agree. Like anything else it becomes second nature soon enough. I end up taking it for granted that I have a separate sub amp until dialing in a new driver. It's nice to not have to think about plate amps when perusing different sub designs. The plate amp is where I always had trouble, budget wise, not wanting to compensate much there, but the price to performance level was often a catch or an off compromise.

Agree on the performance aspect of the usual offerings in a plate amp plus I've had a few fail. A SpeakerPower plate amp would be fine, but still would rather have their rack amp if I'm going to spend that much.

 

[sterling shoote]

I purchased my sub back in 1986, a passive JBL B-380. I only had a stereo system at that time, although I was using a multi-channel preamp with sub output, which made integration of the sub easy. I originally powered the sub with a Sony TA-N55ES in bridged mode for about 300 watts to the sub. That was not enough power to prevent clipping on some music. Clipping, the sub sounded like a sledge hammer whacking a steel pylon. I thereafter hooked up a Sony TA-N80ES in bridged mode for 560 watts to the sub. That was enough power to prevent clipping to this day. Interestingly enough, the manual for the B-380 suggested 600 watts to it. So, what's the point? Active subs are just easier to get up and running and generally cost less than an equivalent passive sub which will require the purchase of an appropriate amp. The appropriate amp is what's not guaranteed, while the active sub most assuredly

has an amp that's perfectly matched to the speakers power needs.

 

[everettT]

I purchased my sub back in 1986, a passive JBL B-380. I only had a stereo system at that time, although I was using a multi-channel preamp with sub output, which made integration of the sub easy. I originally powered the sub with a Sony TA-N55ES in bridged mode for about 300 watts to the sub. That was not enough power to prevent clipping on some music. Clipping, the sub sounded like a sledge hammer whacking a steel pylon. I thereafter hooked up a Sony TA-N80ES in bridged mode for 560 watts to the sub. That was enough power to prevent clipping to this day. Interestingly enough, the manual for the B-380 suggested 600 watts to it. So, what's the point? Active subs are just easier to get up and running and generally cost less than an equivalent passive sub which will require the purchase of an appropriate amp. The appropriate amp is what's not guaranteed, while the active sub most assuredlyView attachment 24096 has an amp that's perfectly matched to the speakers power needs.

External amps in theory last long due to less heat build up, recently offer more features, and can run multiple subs off of one. As for wattage, when your buying 1kw a channel it usually isnt never an issue.

 

[Winkleswizard]

Having built more than a few subwoofers, initially I went the plate amp route. Primarily because they were cost effective and simple. I still have 2 older Daytons and never had any reliability issues with them. However, I did find one rattled pretty bad as I tested it long after I built it. I have also built boxes that have buzzed badly and more bracing was only ever able to dampen somewhat!

Now that I have more design experience, I avoid adding anything to a cabinet that might buzz or develop a buzz. When we are talking low frequencies at decent amplitudes, I have found that parts can vibrate or loosen and vibrate and you would not have known without testing with a frequency generator. While cabinets can be tricky, bolts, port tubes and drivers themselves can buzz at unexpected frequencies (hint: not just really low ones).

I also like the modularity that can be attained with separate parts for the cabinet. I can attain better cabinet integrity and get to optimize the amplifiers and electronic crossovers. While amps have mainly been a cost improvement, the advent cost effective dsp technology has made designing crossovers easier and allows tweaking of the design from the model or to fit room acoustics. I admit my approach has commercial challenges for most of the market, but suspect will some aspects adopted eventually.

I think it is noteworthy that the Apple Homepod attempts to adjust to its location. I expect that we will see more intelligence driven into speakers in the future. While I love to optimize my electronics, most of my family and friends just want it to be easy to use and sound “pretty” good...

Ww