Which Appliances Consume Electricity When Turned OFF?

Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Adding all appliances and gadgets used at home might surprise you. Here is some interesting info which I found and desired to share for the benefit of some of us:
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Easy enough to find out- use a Kill-A-Watt. I bought one at Harbor Freight but they're sold by others. Shouldn't be more than $30.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
It's not necessary to purchase a Kill-A-Watt as someone doesn't have to know how much an appliance consumes. Unplugging cell phone and PC chargers that still consume power when not in use, so is the situation with appliances left in standby mode.

For example, I've just replaced the supplied manual thermostat in my apartment living room with a digital one. I should be starting saving on heating energy consumption from now on.
 
Last edited:
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
It's not necessary to purchase a Kill-A-Watt as someone doesn't have to know how much an appliance consumes. Unplugging cell phone and PC chargers that still consume power when not in use, so is the situation with appliances left in standby mode.

For example, I've just replaced the supplied manual thermostat in my apartment living room with a digital one. I should be starting saving on heating energy consumption from now on.
You need something like a Kill-A -Watt if you want data to use for planning energy use. Anyone can unplug everything but there's no quick way to see consumption. I bought mine so I could see how much energy my electric oil radiator heater uses over time- there's no way to do it, otherwise. The reason I use the electric heater is due to the fact that WE Energies has jacked our energy rates so much, but gas increased far more than electric so it makes sense to use electric. Turns out that my 1500W electric heater's low setting uses 600W, but it only turns on for about 10-15 minutes/hour- that costs far less than the natural gas used and I left the Kill-A-Watt connected during the coldest week this Winter- it used 50KWh, which means the cost was less than nine bucks. The gas heat was turned down, but it was still comfortable and it operated far less than if I had only used gas.

At this point, I set the nighttime temperature to 66 and if it's very cold, I turn the electric heater on in my bedroom and set it to low, with the dial on 3. Bedroom is a good temperature for me to sleep and I don't really care if the rest of the house is colder unless I need to get up for some reason and then, I can turn the heat on beforehand. Once it cycles, I turn it down again.

Yeah, go with the idea that you'll be saving money with the new thermostat- I have those and they have a very narrow tolerance for temperature change, which makes the furnace cycle very frequently and that's not good. You'll need to adjust the temperature offset, too- if your thermostat's location is in a warmer or colder location than where you spend most of your time, it won't cycle correctly. I'n going to buy a cheap digital thermometer or try my IR thermometer to see if that matches the reading on my thermostat and adjust accordingly.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
So many items are not "off" but rather standby....
That's another reason I bought the Kill-A-Watt- it shows Volts, Amps, Watts/VA, Hz/PF, KWH and hours. It doesn't store the info when it's unplugged, though.

I used it when I powered my guitar amp after servicing it, too- I had built a current limiter to prevent self-immolation in case something were to go wrong on first power and I was able to see that the limiter dropped the line voltage to 110VAC, which is what was available when the amp was made, rather than 120VAC+, as it is now. That 9% represents an increase of 39VDC in one part of the power supply in that amplifier and since it's collectible, I want to keep it in the correct ballpark.
 

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Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
You need something like a Kill-A -Watt if you want data to use for planning energy use. Anyone can unplug everything but there's no quick way to see consumption. I bought mine so I could see how much energy my electric oil radiator heater uses over time- there's no way to do it, otherwise. The reason I use the electric heater is due to the fact that WE Energies has jacked our energy rates so much, but gas increased far more than electric so it makes sense to use electric. Turns out that my 1500W electric heater's low setting uses 600W, but it only turns on for about 10-15 minutes/hour- that costs far less than the natural gas used and I left the Kill-A-Watt connected during the coldest week this Winter- it used 50KWh, which means the cost was less than nine bucks. The gas heat was turned down, but it was still comfortable and it operated far less than if I had only used gas.

At this point, I set the nighttime temperature to 66 and if it's very cold, I turn the electric heater on in my bedroom and set it to low, with the dial on 3. Bedroom is a good temperature for me to sleep and I don't really care if the rest of the house is colder unless I need to get up for some reason and then, I can turn the heat on beforehand. Once it cycles, I turn it down again.

Yeah, go with the idea that you'll be saving money with the new thermostat- I have those and they have a very narrow tolerance for temperature change, which makes the furnace cycle very frequently and that's not good. You'll need to adjust the temperature offset, too- if your thermostat's location is in a warmer or colder location than where you spend most of your time, it won't cycle correctly. I'n going to buy a cheap digital thermometer or try my IR thermometer to see if that matches the reading on my thermostat and adjust accordingly.
The digital thermostat that I bought, a Honeywell RLV4300, is connected to a baseboard heater. It's standard cycle period is 15 seconds which is suitable for baseboard elements, but it can be switched to a 5 minute cycle for a fan operated furnace.

By the way, I also have a Kill-A-Watt gadget.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
The digital thermostat that I bought, a Honeywell RLV4300, is connected to a baseboard heater. It's standard cycle period is 15 seconds which is suitable for baseboard elements, but it can be switched to a 5 minute cycle for a fan operated furnace.

By the way, I also have a Kill-A-Watt gadget.
Gadget? I thought it was a gizmo.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Thingie is the correct technical term according to my grandparents....
I don't think I heard that word before 2000- maybe I was sheltered, but gizmo, gadget, whatchamacalit, thingamabob, doo-dad, 'that thing- you know......' were common
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
I'm partial to Thingamajigger, but I could be biased on account of having young kids around.
I also saw significant bill savings after I installed the Ecobee thermostat and set it for conservative savings.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I'm partial to Thingamajigger, but I could be biased on account of having young kids around.
I also saw significant bill savings after I installed the Ecobee thermostat and set it for conservative savings.
Is it the Woke model?
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Also, this is one of the better smart plugs that also monitor power usage:
It also has an existing excellent HomeAssistant integration
I bought Feit smart plugs (not sure why they call an outlet a plug) and they're ten bucks each. Connectivity isn't always painless but they work well. I started with theirs by buying some smart dimmers at Costco and they have worked well enough that I added a smart light bulb, a floodlight camera and an indoor ball camera. I like being able to automate the lighting without breaking the bank. I have a Lutron Caseta dimmer, but it only works with their Pico remote if the hub isn't used and I didn't want to pay Lutron prices, even though I can buy them from distributors.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
It's not necessary to purchase a Kill-A-Watt as someone doesn't have to know how much an appliance consumes. Unplugging cell phone and PC chargers that still consume power when not in use, so is the situation with appliances left in standby mode.

For example, I've just replaced the supplied manual thermostat in my apartment living room with a digital one. I should be starting saving on heating energy consumption from now on.
You just don't know as your heating needs change from day to day compared to your historical usage. Phone chargers are electronic instead of a small transformers of the past chargers. Only think on is that tiny led that is on. Perhaps 1/10Watt or less, 2.4W a day?
Now, your modem and router is on 24/7. Mine used about 30W/hr. each. But, lots depend on it being on 24/7.
Change all lighting to LED even if they were fluorescent.
 
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