Turbo TA build thread

ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Were do you live? This will be a fun drive. I think I should drive it, lets face it, I am a better driver than you.
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
OK it has been a few weeks now, may as well have an update! We took one weekend off, and had some slow weekends in there, but we got after it full force yesterday and knocked out a lot of work. We will start with 5-14, all we really got accomplished was measuring for push rods, and mocking up the turbo.




I made a new Oil feel line for the turbo, and got started on a new drain for it as well. That was really all we got done that entire weekend :(

Next up was the weekend of the 28th, where we got some parts in but not a ton of work done again.

Here are the axles back from being shortened 3" each by Moser
\

We plugged the holes for the knock sensors (we won’t be running them anymore) and installed the valley cover. Also (no pics) installed the push rods and buttoned up the motor. You can also see the -12 adapters for running the remote water pump installed on the front of the motor.


Quick shot of the motor all ready to go, rockers, valve covers, intake manifold, fuel rails, etc. are all torqued for the final time.


Just a quick shot of the garage before we burned all the boxes.


I also whipped up a mount for the line lock which you can see on the master cylinder in this pic along with most of the parts needed for the brake lines (from Jerry Bickle race cars)


Modified the stock throttle cable bracket
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Here are a few pics of the Aluminum trans cross member that Eric at Midwest Chassis made for us.






We also got the rear end back in the car with the axles in and the brakes mounted, I didn’t bother taking any pics though.

Now we are up to yesterday where we knocked out some major work. We will start with running the new fuel lines. I spent a while making up some lines, then dove under the car and had at it. Here is the start of it all.


Nothing to exciting to say here, so I will just throw up some pics






Left a little loop so that we can get the fuel filter on and off without too much hassle.


This is where we stopped with the fuel lines for now, until we get the motor in


Chris was inside the car working on the wiring when he wasn’t busy under the car helping me run the lines. Once we both finished up we put the dash back in for the first time.
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
We did not realize how close the dash was going to be to the shifter, but we lucked out and it clears just fine. Another 1/2 of an inch though and we would not be so happy.

Played with how to lay out the gauges


Here is the adapter plate for the manual master


We ended up taking the dash back out so that we could get the shifter all wrapped up. Had to install and wire the neutral safety switch and the reverse light switch. We also had to install and route the shifter cable while we were at it, then reinstall the cover and the grip. After that we put the dash back in for the last time, also trimmed and installed the passenger a-pillar cover. After that we fixed the broken driver side window and re-installed the driver door panel. I didn’t get pictures of any of this, because it was 3am by this time and I wanted to take a shower and pass out. So as you can see progress is being made, but it hasn’t been to interesting to post. We are closing in on finishing the car though, so the next few weekends should be busy. As always thanks for looking!

Sean
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Interesting that you are running the 255 pump. All the turbo Honda guys run the same one. How much fuel can that thing supply? Also, what are the detailed specs on the engine (Compression, Rev range, Boost, etc etc). I see dual valve springs and am curious as to how high it will be revving.

SheepStar
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Interesting that you are running the 255 pump. All the turbo Honda guys run the same one. How much fuel can that thing supply? Also, what are the detailed specs on the engine (Compression, Rev range, Boost, etc etc). I see dual valve springs and am curious as to how high it will be revving.

SheepStar
We are running dual 255 pumps, should be good to about 1000 WHP. I never remember what the compression is, somewhere around 9.5:1 (9.2:1 comes to mind). I believe we are going to rev it to ~7000 RPM, boost will be as high as it needs to be ;) , but probably lower than you think. For example on the old motor we only ran about 6 PSI and made ~500-550 WHP. The dual valve springs have less to do with RPM and more to do with boost/lift. On the old set up we actualy held the valves open under low boost (6-7 PSI) when we had it on the dyno.

Sean
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Progress continues slowly but surely. We have been knocking out more small tedious things, just plugging away for the last couple of weeks. Some of the bigger things that have been done include the dash being mounted in for the last time. Also Chris trimmed the dash pad to fit around the cage and we got that installed as well





It doesn't look very exciting, but it is a major part finally done. Chris also made a support for the passenger side of the dash, since it wanted to sag without the heavy factory cross bar. He has also been cleaning up the wiring, and adding what we need for various things. There is still more to be done but we are waiting on some terminals, and other supplies. Once the wiring is done then we need to mount the harness, and install the seats and its is done.

Next comes the rear wheels! Once the decision was made to narrow the rear end it was just a matter of picking the right backspace for the wheels which turned out awesome.



And next to the Mickey Thompson 275/60 drag radials (28x10.5)


The reason the front runners were off was because we needed to pop the tires off and tighten the valve stems (I forgot to do this when I mounted them the first time around). Here you can see Chris in my bosses garage trying to figure out how the hell these go together.


Luckily inside this garage is this...


And this...


So in no time we have the wheels mounted and balanced (one of the rears only needed 1oz!) Here is the end result


Chris had to do some massaging to the driver wheel well (other than cutting out the bump stops which we did a while back) to get the 28's to fit, but it was worth it in the end.


 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
(The hatch is open in this pic)




In this one you can see that the gas tank is back in (another big piece of the puzzle that is done) and the trans cooler (minus fan) mounted. We installed it in the back for a couple of reasons, but mainly packaging. There is a lot in the front of the car, we didn't need to add more.


After changing the rear wheel studs to some longer ones (3") we loaded the car up on the trailer. since it was storming real bad out, we just parked it all in the garage :D


And still had plenty of room for the cars!


And yes that is a boat in the back too! So for anyone counting, there is a 17' bass boat, a 20' car hauler with the TA on it, a Jetta, and a Corolla, plus the riding mower, huge snow blower, work bench, three tool boxes, etc etc etc. It was a little tight in there to say the least. But it is very nice to have this much space available.

The reason the car is on the trailer is brakes. We were going to attack these ourselves (they really aren't that hard) but we found out that we would need at least one flare tool (37*) and probably a better 45* double wall flare tool. Once you buy the two flare tools, and the couple of fittings and extra line we needed the cost was equal to having a local hot rod shop bend them up for us. So today we drove it down the road 15min and dropped it off, we should get it back by the weekend. Once we get it back we can finally put the motor in! We wanted it out for the brakes so it wouldn't be in the way.

Well that is all for now, thanks for looking!

Sean
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Well just a quick update this week, mostly because I didn't get a lot of pictures. As I said last week, we dropped the car off at Hot Rods by Huber in Stillman Valley to get the brake lines done, and we picked it up Friday afternoon. Apparently our idea of having the lines done was a good one. They had problems flaring the stainless line even with a very expensive Snap-On Hydraulic tool! Here is a couple of shitty pics of the front lines under the hood. I don't know why they all turned out like crap, but you get the idea anyway.







Thats all that is worth posting right now. When we get the car up in the air and get the wheels off I will have a couple more (and they wont suck).

Now that the brake lines are in, we can move on to the real wokr....putting in the motor! If you have never installed a motor in a 4th gen F-body, let me tell you it is a pain in the ***. It took muscle, sweat, a load leveler, some jacks, some cutting, and brain power to get that SOB in. I had my camera in the house over night and it fogged up when I brought it outside, so the pics don't start until part way through the process.

Here you can see where we cut the center of the cowl out to give the motor and the leveler clearance to go backward. Unfortunately that only got us so far, and the chains on the back were touching the windshield. So we put the back of the motor on a jack and un-did the rear chains.


Then we moved the leveler all the way forward so that the back of it would go up over the windshield (and give us some more room with the hoist).


With the motor on the jack we were able to go back far enough to line the mounts up with the saddles, but we couldn't lower the motor (since we had to take the handle off of the jack to get it under the car). So then we had to jack the car up to the motor and muscle it the rest of the way. But after not to long it was in the car and off the hoist!!!




Here you can see the solid mounts from Midwest Chassis, and the jack in the background


Once the motor was in the car we began the planning stages for the rest of the work we need to do. We have a lot to package in the car, and not so much room. Once we laid out how/where we were going to put the battery, the water pump, the catch can, and the regulator we started to plumb the fuel system from the back. Here you can see the lines feeding the back of the rails, we are actually going to change the fittings from the straights to 90's so the line isn't bent so tight. You can also see the fuel pressure regulator mounted and the return line ready to be terminated.


Here you can see where the -8 comes from the filter into the "Y" and splits to two -6's to feed the rails. It is in this location for a couple of reasons but mostly so we can get at it easily.


That is as far as we got while I was still taking pictures. At that point we started to plumb the rails to the regulator and needed to install the alternator to see how it would affect the routing of lines. Well it turns out that caused a couple of problems. The first, and most obvious one, was the clearance on the passenger side rail. Because of its position we will need to change the hose end for that side (if you are keeping track we have needed to change quite a few fittings from what we planned without the car in front of us). The second problem brings up back to the water pump, again. The alternator bracket that we have used a piece that bolted on to a part of the factory water pump (as far as we can tell). As you all know the factory water pump is long gone, and so is the factory replacement electric (because of the alternator ironical enough), so out comes the welder to fix that problem. After staring at it for a while, and trying my hardest to convince Chris to just get rid of the alternator all together and go to a 16v system he finally came up with a solution. Ill have pictures of it later, but basically it is a piece of flat stock that bolts to two existing holes in the head, and then two braces that come up to support the lower part of the bracket. It was easy enough to make, and it solved the problem.

That is all for now, but we should be only a couple of weekends worth of work from getting this thing running again! Thanks for looking!


Sean
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Well boys and girls, we got back after it this weekend and got some work done! After taking the holiday weekend off we spent Friday night, and all day Saturday working on the car. We started out by finally mounting the water pump. We had actually decided where we wanted it a couple of weeks ago, but I was hesitant on welding in the bracket "just in case". Well Friday came around and I said **** it! I double checked everything, cleaned up the metal and welded it in. Once that was done I started to make the lower radiator hose which was a -16 from the pump to the radiator. Thats when Chris said, "Are we sure it will clear the turbo?", to which I replied "Of course it will, it should be no where near it!". Well wouldn't you know it, the turbo was in the way of the planned routing. No big deal, just cut some metal out of the way, flip the fittings around and run the line around the frame rail in the area behind the bumper.

Here is the line I whipped up...


And here is the final product with the pump mounted and just the -16 run.


Here it is with the harness back in place.


Next up was the transmission, which as you could imagine was not something I could take pictures of during the process. It did go relatively smooth however so that was good. Started by throwing a quart of trans fluid in the converter.


Then we put the TCI flex plate in (no pictures), put the converter in the trans making sure we properly engaged the pump (no pictures), and got ready to put the trans in. This was not as bad as we thought, but we planned well and took our time. Everything lined up the way it was supposed to the very first time and just fell into place. The hardest part of the whole process was installing the trans blanket. Also for anyone wondering we installed the dipstick AFTER the trans was in!!

Here it is all bolted in! The pan is going to be replaced, we didn't realize how beat up it was until it was installed.


Here you can see the Midwest Chassis Aluminum cross member, and poly mount. I am also planning on re-routing the shifter cable so just ignore that :)


You can also see the 3.5" aluminum PST drive shaft in that picture. It is a VERY nice piece, but we did have some trouble getting the rear u-joint installed. Also we had to drop the drive shaft safety loop in order to get it in, but its in :D


After I muscled the drive shaft in, Chris rough adjusted the front coil overs for height.

Once the car is done and running it will get a full on adjustment and alignment.
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
While he labored away on that, I took on the easy tasks of final mounting the trans cooler and fan, and also the radiator overflow. Here you can see the radiator overflow, also mounted in the back of the car.


And the drain valve coming out of the bottom of the car.


Again the reason for mounting it in the rear of the car was two fold, firstly for space and second for safety. Since we only have 4 bolt heads there is a good chance we will push water sooner or later, so if we push enough to overflow the overflow I would much rather have it come out behind the rear tires.

Lastly here you can see the trans cooler with fan all done and ready to be plumbed. I started on one line, but we needed clamps and more -6 for the second line so its not finished yet.


That is all for this week, it was really the last large project that needed to get done. We have plenty of plumbing and wiring yet to do, and the never ending wait for the fuel fittings (ordered 4 months ago) continues. So barring us getting the last of the fuel fittings we should be firing it up in the next couple of weeks. Well as always thanks for looking!!

Sean
 
KASR

KASR

Full Audioholic
What's the stall on your torque converter? That things gonna be BAD TO THE BONE!
I had a 99 TA that I used to race. Love them LS1 engines!!!
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
What's the stall on your torque converter? That things gonna be BAD TO THE BONE!
I had a 99 TA that I used to race. Love them LS1 engines!!!
The stall is ~4400 RPM, it was spec'ed for us by PTC. It is actually a TH400 converter for a LS1, so no hokey adapters to make it all work.

Lets see your TA! I like LS1's just fine, but I like the LSX better :D

Sean
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Another weekend of work has come and gone. I started this weekend changing out the trans pan for the new B&M Aluminum pan. Here is a quick pic.


Unfortunately when I changed the pan I tried to reroute the shifter cable because it was sticking last weekend. After spending a good amount of time on it I thought I had figured out that the problem was where the cable came out of the car. The thought was that the hole wasn't big enough and it was putting stress on the cable. I decided to just wait till Chris could help look at it on Saturday. We opened up the hole, and it did nothing to help the problem, the shifter still sticks when going into third. So we have to call B&M on Monday and see what they say.

Then I started to plumb the trans cooler lines, and found out that the new piece of line was going to be short!!! Instead of undoing the work I already did, and buying a new piece (which would have left us a spare 10' piece that we would likely never use. we decided to use a -6 to -6 fitting and just have a short piece splice in. Once that decision was made, Chris jumped under the car and finished routing and terminating the rest of the cooler lines. Here you can see the coupling just above the fuel filter, and the finished lines.




We were basically done with under the car at that point, so we decided to just attack under the hood. Nothing real exciting here, just redid the fuel rail feed lines, the fuel rail return lines, the main return line, radiator lines, breathers etc. Installed the manifolds, the crossover, had the turbo on and off (need new bolts), just basically put everything together!




That is all for this weekend, we are starting to get very close to startup. We measured for plug wires this weekend, so if they come in by next weekend we should be firing it up! If not then it will be the following weekend. Thanks as always for looking!

Sean
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Sweet build man. I was at the local strip on Friday, and loved the turbo V8s. 5 liters running 8 seconds. My friends Turbo D series civics ran steady 11.5s. Hopefully videos in the near future?


SheepStar
 
Serj22

Serj22

Full Audioholic
Well, that video was just an LS1 starting, Which is always great to hear, but where's the video of the "turbo Ls1" starting? That's what I'm ecxited to see, dump that snail shell and manifold on there and start it up again.
 
Rowdy S13

Rowdy S13

Audioholic Chief
Well, that video was just an LS1 starting, Which is always great to hear, but where's the video of the "turbo Ls1" starting? That's what I'm ecxited to see, dump that snail shell and manifold on there and start it up again.
Its not an LS1, and the turbo was on but the intercooler pipe wasnt hooked up for two reasons. First there is no reason when we just wanted to start it and heat cycle it. Second I need to extend the pipe since we no longer have a MAF. Trust me, the car was kinda "temped in" just to start it, there is much more to come. We are going to pull the harness off and remove all the junk we dont need. Actually mount the coil packs, install all of the intercooler piping, wire the water pump and so on and so on. We are a couple weeks away from being "finished" with the car, and then another week or two to get it on the track!

Sean
 

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