Tripp Lite Isolation Transformer

[keenan]

I don't even know if any of the HT mfrs make x-overs. I only know the pro stuff. Behringer (not recommended) at the low end, dBx and Rane (decent) in the middle, and Ashly (very nice) toward the top. I'm pretty sure all these have balanced ins and outs, though, so you'll at least have to do some cable adapting from RCA to 1/4" or XLR. Ideally you'd use a transformer like the Aphex 124A to step up to +4 Bal and back down to -10 RCA.

Now the snag: You want to send one L/R pair out and return 2 pairs. Can the Denon route 2 extra internal paths the way you've done the 1 with Zone2?

As far a disabling the internal passives, that's a good question. Pro speakers don't usually have those jumpers on the outside, and with 1/4" jacks, they can have mechanical switches internally break connections when cables are plugged in. Might want to ring up Klipsch asking about the correct way to do this - I don't want to speculate on how their speakers are wired.

Thanks for the names, and I should have been more clear, I am not bi-amping the 3805, only using it as a pre-pro other than side/rear surrounds and center. The 4 of the 5 speakers I use for MCh are currently each powered by Parasound A23's. They are bridgable 2ch amps. If the cost of admission is reasonable I was going to look into using them on the fronts in a bi-amp configuration. It sounds good now, but it can always sound better, right?

Jim

 

[djoxygen]

To all bi-amping:

Had a good discussion with a friend (who used to be my partner in recording studio) over the weekend about this stunt y'all are trying.

His thoughts paraphrased:

1) If you're amplifying the full range of frequencies upstream of the crossover (in this case the passive one inside the speaker box) the crossover is dissipating at least some of the amp's energy. (How much is math that's beyond us.) Bottom line: You're not getting the full 120+120 w.p.c. that you're hoping for out of this.

2) If you want to biamp the correct and complete way (active x-over) you'll almost certainly need to open up your speaker cabinet and bypass the internal crossover - there's no way to have the x-over auto-bypassed as with pro speaker cabinets. If you don't do this, you'll at the very least have a pronounced dip in FR if the crossover frequencies are the same between active and passive. If they're not set the same, you'll have very little energy in the frequency range between the two crossover frequencies.

3) Since there's a very small amount of consumer interest in biamping, there's little incentive for speaker mfrs to design easily bypassed passive cross-overs and for electronics mfrs to make active crossovers for use in HT systems.

(I'm cross-posting this in the "Bi-Amping the Denon 3805" thread as well, which is probably a better place for this discussion.)

 

[Jason Coleman]

DJOxygen-

I don't really think that anybody was expecting to get a full 240 watts (120 wpc x 2) through bi-amping. First of all, the Denon can't put out 120 wpc. Secondly, it's a no-brainer that you won't get the full 120 wpc (even if they were there) to both the highs and the lows.

This being said...this so-called "stunt" (I only quote it because this is how you have referred to this process twice that I've seen) has made a drastic improvement in my system and many others' as well. While we aren't doubling our power to our mains, we are increasing the power to each section and we are able to adjust the amount via the Zone 2 volume level which is actually a pretty damn cool option that you wouldn't normally have in a traditional setup. The bottom line is this...the bi-amping is a decent way to get some additional power out of the 3805 in a 5.1 setup...you can balance the sound out as you like with precise control over the low vs. high levels...the process only takes a pair of cables and about 10 minutes to do...etc. Is it "true bi-amping?" No. Do I really care when it makes such a noticeable improvement to my setup? No, again.

I'm not trying to be defensive, I'm just suggesting that you at least try it or see it done before passing such sweeping judgment. Maybe peek around at other forums and see what they have to say. Not many people at Audioholics seem to have tried it.

Jason

 

[W4ZOO]

Triplite LC1800

I have a trip lite lc1800, an older model that has three levels of high Frequency noise suppression, 50db, 70db and 85db.

Each level has two outlets on the back. Is there any reason I would not want to use the 85db for everything?

Curently I have a Z-9 1kwatts and my Denon 3910 45watts pluged into this.

I will have a Monster HTS5100 that I will be putting inline next week(No Moster bashing).

I asssume I will put the LC1800 Via my dedicated 120 20A circut then the HTS 5100. And every thing else into the HTS 5100/


Thanks


Ken





http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2833