As someone who spent 12 years in a professional woodshop on a high level of production I can add that every thing you say is true . 3\/4 of the battle with wood working is proper calibration of the tools you have table saws are a problem for most people to get right out of the box they will all cut but 90% don’t cut true most don’t know or know how to calabrate a saw or any tools like big saws , planers ,table shapers . Actually being the tune up guy in this shop was a cool job we had very close tolerances on production lathes we had 3 thousandths to play with over on diameters and boring holes on table saws it was 0 . We had our own drying kilns , sawmill and imported some really cool wood and expensive wood and we used some veneer on some jobs too most of our finishing was done by spray and them guys knew what they were doing but none of it was quick .\n\n\nAnd even at .003" tolerance, a machinist would say that was like working in the Stone Age, with clubs and crude hand tools. For that matter, just a change in humidity in an uncontrolled-environment shop can mean that the cuts\/routs made one day will make the parts impossible to assemble the next day (been there). \n\nI thought my planer and jointer were set pretty well until I re-installed the knives after sharpening. Iset the height on both and my test cuts were much smoother than before and it wasn't a matter of sharpness, it was a matter of being more patient the second time. I occasionally measure from fence to blade on my table saw, but that's rare- I set the fence, make the cuts and if I measure the parts, even that's fairly rare- it doesn't go out of adjustment because I'm the only one using my machines, but I did take the time to make sure the table was set properly WRT the blade & trunnions and the fence is set correctly WRT the blade. My bandsaw wasn't expensive and I added a riser block- after seeing the method of setting the fence for resawing, I can cut 1\/16" thick veneers in many species without runout. Setup is critical.