Tony Cardenas

Tony Cardenas

Junior Audioholic
Does it make any difference to use a Y connector with a Sub? My understanding is it is a mono connection so it shouldn't matter?

Does it matter which input you choose if not (Left or Right)? Again, probably dumb question but I guess its better to ask.

Thanks for the insights.
Tony C.



Sub-input.jpeg
 
Mark E. Long

Mark E. Long

Full Audioholic
If it’s an older sub without a low frequency input I’d use a y cable to use both sides of the sub amp and I’d turn that crossover up a lot unless you got huge mains . Some older subs you could just use the left usually but this doesn’t seem to marked as so . There’s many on here that knows more than me tho .
 
Tony Cardenas

Tony Cardenas

Junior Audioholic
Thanks Mark - much appreciated. I'll leave the cable as is. I moved the sub crossover all the way down just from other advice I was given (wanting to let the sub handle all low end and the mains everything else). The mains aren't big by any stretch (in-wall Polk 265-RTs - L / R / and C) though. Hopefully I will be upgrading to a larger sub
 
Mark E. Long

Mark E. Long

Full Audioholic
Thanks Mark - much appreciated. I'll leave the cable as is. I moved the sub crossover all the way down just from other advice I was given (wanting to let the sub handle all low end and the mains everything else). The mains aren't big by any stretch (in-wall Polk 265-RTs - L / R / and C) though. Hopefully I will be upgrading to a larger sub
Always a good idea to let the sub handle the lows experiment with it try setting it at 120 and setting the avr to 80 and see how it goes . I’ve not much experience with inwalls Iam sure there’s fellas on here that do .
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
They're L/R mostly for older units that had L/R preouts, and let the sub sum it to mono. Some would designate one of the inputs for "LFE" which would bypass the sub's own low pass filter (and if the sub doesn't have that merely crank the low pass filter on the sub to max value to get it out of the way so it doesn't combine with the low pass filter the avr will provide). If your pre-out level is unusually weak you might get a bit more gain by using both L/R inputs on the sub.
 
Tony Cardenas

Tony Cardenas

Junior Audioholic
They're L/R mostly for older units that had L/R preouts, and let the sub sum it to mono. Some would designate one of the inputs for "LFE" which would bypass the sub's own low pass filter (and if the sub doesn't have that merely crank the low pass filter on the sub to max value to get it out of the way so it doesn't combine with the low pass filter the avr will provide). If your pre-out level is unusually weak you might get a bit more gain by using both L/R inputs on the sub.
Thanks lovinthehd - appreciate the info - I have a much better understanding of things now for sure.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Warlord
They're L/R mostly for older units that had L/R preouts, and let the sub sum it to mono. Some would designate one of the inputs for "LFE" which would bypass the sub's own low pass filter (and if the sub doesn't have that merely crank the low pass filter on the sub to max value to get it out of the way so it doesn't combine with the low pass filter the avr will provide). If your pre-out level is unusually weak you might get a bit more gain by using both L/R inputs on the sub.
Just to add here, I noticed on the sub a switch for “internal crossoverl” or “direct”
Seems like direct would be the “LFE” input using the AVR’s crossover. Since the built in low pass/crossover is bottomed at 40 I’d say that’s fine, but since Tony mentioned the speakers not being bass capable that might be a problem if he uses that switched over to the internal one.
@Tony Cardenas that was for you too. Just too lazy to do another post lol.
 
Mark E. Long

Mark E. Long

Full Audioholic
Just to add here, I noticed on the sub a switch for “internal crossoverl” or “direct”
Seems like direct would be the “LFE” input using the AVR’s crossover. Since the built in low pass/crossover is bottomed at 40 I’d say that’s fine, but since Tony mentioned the speakers not being bass capable that might be a problem if he uses that switched over to the internal one.
@Tony Cardenas that was for you too. Just too lazy to do another post lol.
After looking at the pic again I noticed that switch too and was wondering the same .
 
Tony Cardenas

Tony Cardenas

Junior Audioholic
Just to add here, I noticed on the sub a switch for “internal crossoverl” or “direct”
Seems like direct would be the “LFE” input using the AVR’s crossover. Since the built in low pass/crossover is bottomed at 40 I’d say that’s fine, but since Tony mentioned the speakers not being bass capable that might be a problem if he uses that switched over to the internal one.
@Tony Cardenas that was for you too. Just too lazy to do another post lol.
Thanks William - that was my hope leaving it set to Direct (letting the AVR work all settings) vs the sub. Its always sounded reasonable 'good' as a sub but then again I don't have much to base that off of. Hopefully keeping the crossovers on all the speakers at 80Hz and letting the sub work the low end is the way to go. Ideally I'll get a better/more powerful sub in the future.

Do you think I'd be better served going with a higher priced (larger) single sub or 2 smaller subs?

Of course - if money was no object - I guess 2 high-quality subs would be ideal? The AVR has 2 sub outputs so I'm guessing it has the brains to work out setting up 2 using Audyssey? Man I"m learning that this (home theater/audio bug) bites hard. I really want to upgrade this sub.
 
Mark E. Long

Mark E. Long

Full Audioholic
Thanks William - that was my hope leaving it set to Direct (letting the AVR work all settings) vs the sub. Its always sounded reasonable 'good' as a sub but then again I don't have much to base that off of. Hopefully keeping the crossovers on all the speakers at 80Hz and letting the sub work the low end is the way to go. Ideally I'll get a better/more powerful sub in the future.

Do you think I'd be better served going with a higher priced (larger) single sub or 2 smaller subs?

Of course - if money was no object - I guess 2 high-quality subs would be ideal? The AVR has 2 sub outputs so I'm guessing it has the brains to work out setting up 2 using Audyssey? Man I"m learning that this (home theater/audio bug) bites hard. I really want to upgrade this sub.
Iam wanting to replace my two aging jbl subs myself Iam leaning towards two Monolith 12’s thx subs but if I had the room I’d go for the 15’s they all review very good lots to ponder .
 
Tony Cardenas

Tony Cardenas

Junior Audioholic
Nice. I have those on my list of options. I can't imagine how awesome 2 would sound.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
LOL also didn't notice the direct/internal switch. That should be closer to the low pass filter adjustment IMO. I think "direct" is a better description than "LFE", but mostly you see it called "LFE".

Just what make/model of sub are we looking at?
 
mazersteven

mazersteven

Audioholic Warlord
Do you think I'd be better served going with a higher priced (larger) single sub or 2 smaller subs?

Of course - if money was no object - I guess 2 high-quality subs would be ideal? The AVR has 2 sub outputs so I'm guessing it has the brains to work out setting up 2 using Audyssey? Man I"m learning that this (home theater/audio bug) bites hard. I really want to upgrade this sub.
Stop being a Wuss. Get Two

 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Your Denon 3700 does have the ability to set level/delay separately for two subs. Duals are a good way to go over a single IMO.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Warlord
Thanks William - that was my hope leaving it set to Direct (letting the AVR work all settings) vs the sub. Its always sounded reasonable 'good' as a sub but then again I don't have much to base that off of. Hopefully keeping the crossovers on all the speakers at 80Hz and letting the sub work the low end is the way to go. Ideally I'll get a better/more powerful sub in the future.

Do you think I'd be better served going with a higher priced (larger) single sub or 2 smaller subs?

Of course - if money was no object - I guess 2 high-quality subs would be ideal? The AVR has 2 sub outputs so I'm guessing it has the brains to work out setting up 2 using Audyssey? Man I"m learning that this (home theater/audio bug) bites hard. I really want to upgrade this sub.
This is always an interesting discussion. One great, or two midrange subs.
My philosophy is buy the absolute best one you can now. Then plan on saving for a second one as soon as you can. A lot of ink has been dedicated to single vs multiple subs. I, like most here believe in multiple subs. I currently use three, and two in another system. Two singles in other rooms. All that’s to say, while I believe in multiples, I don’t think you have to go all in at once. Obviously that’s the ideal, but imo bass is an investment, and sometimes investments take a while.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
This is always an interesting discussion. One great, or two midrange subs.
My philosophy is buy the absolute best one you can now. Then plan on saving for a second one as soon as you can. A lot of ink has been dedicated to single vs multiple subs. I, like most here believe in multiple subs. I currently use three, and two in another system. Two singles in other rooms. All that’s to say, while I believe in multiples, I don’t think you have to go all in at once. Obviously that’s the ideal, but imo bass is an investment, and sometimes investments take a while.
I might add when first getting "into" subs it seemed so expensive, and the idea of multiple high dollar subs just seemed ridiculous.....until you get there (altho not necessarily with high dollar, but rather high performance....diy can go a long ways in that regard).
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic General
Subs are like balls or tits. One big one will get the job done, but nothin’ beats a nice pair.:p
 

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