Stupid question about preamp, and amps?

H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
Ok just explain to me this thing real quick. There is a ground loop issue. The fact that I hooked up an external amp says to me that it's between the new amp and old receiver. That is the only new piece of equipment. So assume it's between the amp and receiver right? I mean the Samsung Blu Ray player or PS4 wouldn't cause this right? So if between the amp and receiver what needs to be done other than a product like Hum X? That's all that could fix it no? Also I'm gonna add a real processor in the next 5 months or so. You think this will still be an issue then?

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Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
If I understand correctly it could be any one of the components in your system. That's why Peng suggested reconnecting your inputs on The back of your avr, one at a time until the hum is isolated.
Assuming yours a ground potential related issue, you should try to isolate the culprit first. Try the following steps.

0. As Pogre suggested, lower the HCA 1205's gain and report back the effect.
1. Separate the AVR from the HCA 1205A power amp completely, electrically and physically.
2. Plug in the power amp to a dedicated wall outlet that has nothing else connected to it.
3. Hook up the 2 front main speakers to the HCA 1205S's output binding posts.
4. Turn on the power amp and hear if you still get the buzz/hum.

If the buzz/hum is gone or substantially reduced, continue to the next step.

5. Reconnect the preouts of the AVR to the power amp but leave all inputs disconnected.
6. Again, listen for buzz and/or hums.

If all is still good, then reconnect the inputs, but only one at a time, and each time listen for buzz/hum. The one that triggers the buzz/hum is the culprit.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
If I understand correctly it could be any one of the components in your system. That's why Peng suggested reconnecting your inputs on Tha back of your avr, one at a time until the hum is isolated.
Yeah I'll try that. I hate this stuff. Parasound suggested doing the same thing. I hate having to connect and reconnect and all that stuff.

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Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Yeah I'll try that. I hate this stuff. Parasound suggested doing the same thing. I hate having to connect and reconnect and all that stuff.

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Yeah, mine is a bit of a pain to get at for that stuff too, but hey, it doesn't cost a cent.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Ok just explain to me this thing real quick. There is a ground loop issue. The fact that I hooked up an external amp says to me that it's between the new amp and old receiver. That is the only new piece of equipment. So assume it's between the amp and receiver right? I mean the Samsung Blu Ray player or PS4 wouldn't cause this right? So if between the amp and receiver what needs to be done other than a product like Hum X? That's all that could fix it no? Also I'm gonna add a real processor in the next 5 months or so. You think this will still be an issue then?

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This thread is getting long so I guess you missed my response in post#111 regarding the Hum X you linked in post#107.


Again, that Hum X device is only rated for 6A. Your semi monster amp can draw much more than that, so you should not use that device. If you can find something like the Hum X but rated 15A or higher than go for it.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
This thread is getting long so I guess you missed my response in post#111 regarding the Hum X you linked in post#107.


Again, that Hum X device is only rated for 6A. Your semi monster amp can draw much more than that, so you should not use that device. If you can find something like the Hum X but rated 15A or higher than go for it.
Yeah I did read that. That's why I said use something like that. I'm sure there are other products like that, that can handle the amp.

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P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Yeah I did read that. That's why I said use something like that. I'm sure there are other products like that, that can handle the amp.

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If I find anything I'll let you know. For now, ADTG's advice on the GFCI is solid in terms of safety.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
If I find anything I'll let you know. For now, ADTG's advice on the GFCI is solid in terms of safety.
Question. If the ground is the issue and I use a cheater plug with a gfci would that then complete the ground again causing the hum to come back?

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H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
If the processor has a grounded chassis with a real 3 prong power socket and cord then he may not have the same problem, not a sure bet though.
The two processors I'm looking at have 3 prong real deal heavy duty power cords.

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P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Yes. I think it would be the same problem.
If the processor has a grounded chassis with a real 3 prong power socket and cord then he may not have the same problem, but real 3 prong power socket/cord are rare. I paid a fortune for my AV-8801 that still came with 2 prong.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
If the processor has a grounded chassis with a real 3 prong power socket and cord then he may not have the same problem, but real 3 prong power socket/cord are rare. I paid a fortune for my AV-8801 that still came with 2 prong.
Yeah, I think my $7,500 AVP-A1HDCI pre-pro has a 2-prong cord.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Yeah, I think my $7,500 AVP-A1HDCI pre-pro has a 2-prong cord.
The two processors I'm looking at have 3 prong real deal heavy duty power cords.

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That Emo looks like it has 3 prongs but we shouldn't be buying a propro because of that. ADTG's $7,500 prepro that is highly rated by Gene (I think he owns one) of Audioholics doesn't have 3 prongs. In your case though, the 3 prong could end up being a good feature as it may work with the Parasound without the humming issue. There is no guarantee but my educated guess is that the chance is better than one that does not have the chassis grounded to the 3rd pin. In any case, you picked the MC700 right from the beginning, so go for it, though I think the Outlaw 976 is worth waiting for.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
That Emo looks like it has 3 prongs but we shouldn't be buying a propro because of that. ADTG's $7,500 prepro that is highly rated by Gene (I think he owns one) of Audioholics doesn't have 3 prongs. In your case though, the 3 prong could end up being a good feature as it may work with the Parasound without the humming issue. There is no guarantee but my educated guess is that the chance is better than one that does not have the chassis grounded to the 3rd pin. In any case, you picked the MC700 right from the beginning, so go for it, though I think the Outlaw 976 is worth waiting for.
I keep going back and forth between these two processors. One day I lean Emotiva, the next Outlaw. At this moment I'm leaning Outlaw Model 976. It looks beefier inside with a better power supply. That is just from my untrained eyes though.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I keep going back and forth between these two processors. One day I lean Emotiva, the next Outlaw. At this moment I'm leaning Outlaw Model 976. It looks beefier inside with a better power supply. That is just from my untrained eyes though.
I would definitely go with the 976. Mainly for curiosity, did you, or could you find out which DAC will be used in the 976? The one in the Emo doesn't have the best specs, though I am in the most DAC sounds the same camp if implemented well.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
I would definitely go with the 976. Mainly for curiosity, did you, or could you find out which DAC will be used in the 976? The one in the Emo doesn't have the best specs, though I am in the most DAC sounds the same camp if implemented well.
Yeah I agree with all of that. Good question about the DAC, I will ask Outlaw. That is a great question.

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H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
Hey guys I did some tweaking today with speaker placement, just kinda tightened things up a bit. I then ran YPAO, and it set the crossover at 60 Hz instead of the 80 Hz it used to with the Yamaha amp. Is that because of the new amp and what it does? I changed it to 80 Hz anyway just because most feel that's best.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Hey guys I did some tweaking today with speaker placement, just kinda tightened things up a bit. I then ran YPAO, and it set the crossover at 60 Hz instead of the 80 Hz it used to with the Yamaha amp. Is that because of the new amp and what it does? I changed it to 80 Hz anyway just because most feel that's best.
More likely a change in speaker placement and the effects of the room. It just looks for an in-room f3 response (at least I belive YPAO is similar to Audyssey in that respect)....and usually it is okay to raise a crossover but not lower it....
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Hey guys I did some tweaking today with speaker placement, just kinda tightened things up a bit. I then ran YPAO, and it set the crossover at 60 Hz instead of the 80 Hz it used to with the Yamaha amp. Is that because of the new amp and what it does? I changed it to 80 Hz anyway just because most feel that's best.
Some of us may set the XO a little higher (mine is set to 120Hz), but 80 Hz is the usual consensus for XO.
 
H

Hetfield

Audioholic Samurai
Some of us may set the XO a little higher (mine is set to 120Hz), but 80 Hz is the usual consensus for XO.
Yeah with Def Tech SM 65 and SM 55 speakers I think 80 Hz is right. 60 possibly but I tried that and I like 80 Hz better.

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