speaker wiring for dummies

R

rabbit_ears

Audioholic Intern
I read the article on series/parallel wiring in the sticky section and huh? i'm a chemical engineer not electrical and i was lost right after ohm's law. my dilema is i'm running in ceiling speakers in my kitchen/dining area. total area is 10x33'. it's really just for ambient noise i don't anticipate we'll be rockin' out in the kitchen. however it may get turned up a bit in the summer when we're on the deck with windows open. that said i was thinking of just going with two speakers splitting the room in thirds but because each speaker would then be 11' apart should i go with dual voice coils? or should i go with more speakers? I will be running whatever i put in with the second zone of an Onkyo TX-SR705 receiver. my second question is how do i run the wires to dual coil speakers and/or more than one pair of them? please keep explanations as simple as possible for my simple brain to comprehend. Thanks.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Many of the other guys here will probably be able to better help you if you are looking to select a particular brand of speaker, but maybe I can help you with your connection question in series vs. parallel.

For a typical receiver, hooking speakers up in parallel is generally not a good idea. What this does is effectively drops the impedance of the overall load as follows:

Where Z = Impedance
Where Ztotal = total impedance
Where Z1 = Speaker 1, Z2 = Speaker 2 and so on...

When you place any load, whether resistive or inductive (as in speakers) in parallel, you are effectively reducing the load (impedance) by half of the rated impedance load of one speaker (if wiring two in parallel, with the same rated impedance), or by the equation below, if using more:

Ztotal =
_____________1__________
1/Z1 + 1/Z2 + 1/Z3 + etc...

In Series Ztotal is simply Z1+Z2+Z3+....

So for the above, if you are wiring 3 speakers in parallel (each rated for 8 ohms), the end total impedance the receiver would see is around 2.6 ohms.

It series, for 3 8 ohm speakers, the total load would be 24 ohms.

Why is lower impedance bad?

This is where Ohm's Law comes in. Ohms law states that there is a linear relationship between a circuits source voltage, current and resistance (impedance).

This relationship is described as E = IR (or Z for impedance)

Where E = Voltage
Where I = Current
Where R(Z) = aforementioned resistance or impedance

Therefore with a lower load such as 2.6 ohms, for a rated voltage, this means that the current in this circuit would have to increase.

I'm not sure of the voltage in a given speaker circuit so I'll assume 15 volts.

Therefore to solve for the current: I = 15/2.6 ohms which is 5.76A current
(This is the parallel scenario)

In perspective - a single 8 ohm connection would yield I = 15/8 ohms = 1.88A current.

This means more current is being supplied by your amplifier, which could lead to some very undesirable outcomes (in the way of burning something up).

As I understand it, many modern receivers have built-in protection circuits that will cut off this scenario before damage occurs, but it's still not something you would want to do.

Also, keep in mind that a speakers impedance will vary over frequency - so the above numbers are based off of nominal rated impedance specs.

For ambient music; not sure if this is ideal for you; it would be better to put together a 70 Volt distributed sound system, then you can wire several speakers together off the same home-run, and achieve background mono characteristics. This gets into the rated power of an amplifier that can provide this sort of output - the combined power of the speakers should not be less than the amplifer can produce. Many in-ceiling speakesr (contractor series) I have worked with in the past have wattage taps built in to satisfy a wide variety of circumstances and scenarios.

I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion about the electrical side of things.

There are a lot of extremely knowledgeable people that use this site. You will get your questions answered by some of the best.
 
Last edited:
R

rabbit_ears

Audioholic Intern
dumb it up some more

now not only am i an audio/electrical moron but i can't figure out how to edit my own post so i have to post a reply.
Thanks Halon for your response, that part of the wiring i understand (except the 70V distributed sound system).
After my original post i thought about using two single voice coil in-ceiling speaker on either end of the room and a dual coil for the middle to provide the second half of the stereo sound for each mono speaker at opposing ends of the room.
Is this feasible? or is it a dumb idea? if it is possible how would i wire it?
should i look for 4 ohm speakers and wire them in series to net 8 ohm on each channel?
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
You two are getting way to crazy.

Just run impedance volume controls or an impedance speaker selector box off of zone two.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
You two are getting way to crazy.

Just run impedance volume controls or an impedance speaker selector box off of zone two.
Well I do agree with Greg wholeheartedly - you want to keep this as simple as possible; I just wanted to hopefully shed some light on the relationship between wiring (series vs. parallel) that covers any electrical circuit, not just audio, since you expressed some confusion.

I have a strong background in electrical and electronics, and a mediocre (at best) dabble in A/V. I use my electronics knowledge and experience to gain more understanding of how the latter works, but guys like Greg will be able to offer the simplest solutions for any given scenario.

I installed dozens of distributed sounds systems before, so that's why that came to mind so quickly. It's probably a bit overkill for what you're wanting to do, however.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Hey I've got to shine where I can. I'm 4 posts from becoming a full fledged audioholic by this site's criteria, but I'm still basically a newbie in training on audio compared to some of you guys. :D
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I dont know much; I just listen to the guys on here and then go buy stuff...
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Bikes, cars, SUVs, LCD, plasma, DLP, AVR, amp, PS3, speakers, credenza and a buch of wire is what I have bought since finding this site one year ago. If I had of just not been surfing the web that day I would have saved the $71,000 you guys made me spend!
define stuff!! :p;)
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Bikes, cars, SUVs, LCD, plasma, DLP, AVR, amp, PS3, speakers, credenza and a buch of wire is what I have bought since finding this site one year ago. If I had of just not been surfing the web that day I would have saved the $71,000 you guys made me spend!
Ha! Do you think I could use this as an excuse to my wife? That THEY made me spend all that money? LOL... :D
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
You two are getting way to crazy.

Just run impedance volume controls or an impedance speaker selector box off of zone two.

This is the BEST way to go about it. I would do 4 speakers (two pairs) with an impedance matching volume control or impedance matching switching unit. It will make your quest much simpler. More speakers increases overall system efficiency. Every time suface area is doubled you increase output by 3db. If power is in turn doubled you get another 3db increase.

What are the room's dimensions?
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Well it did and didnt work for me; she got the SUV because I got all the HT stuff...

My original goal was to get something a tad better than the HTIB i was using.
Ha! Do you think I could use this as an excuse to my wife? That THEY made me spend all that money? LOL... :D
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
My original goal was to get something a tad better than the HTIB i was using.
That's exactly what started me on this quest. I knew it was crappy while I had it (the HTIB), but I never put much into it, knowing I wouldn't get much out of it. But it up and died on me one day, and suddenly I had to get out there and start getting serious. :)
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
This is the BEST way to go about it. I would do 4 speakers (two pairs) with an impedance matching volume control or impedance matching switching unit. It will make your quest much simpler. More speakers increases overall system efficiency. Every time suface area is doubled you increase output by 3db. If power is in turn doubled you get another 3db increase.

What are the room's dimensions?
Something like this perhaps?

http://www.smarthome.com/97257902.html
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Yep, there are days when I miss a simple HTIB but not many...
That's exactly what started me on this quest. I knew it was crappy while I had it (the HTIB), but I never put much into it, knowing I wouldn't get much out of it. But it up and died on me one day, and suddenly I had to get out there and start getting serious. :)
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
You know, I believe this thread has inspired me to do something similar in my own house. I don't really need the sound anywhere else at this point, but it sounds like a fun little project to take up on a weekend or something.

Just another thing for the wife to shake her head about... (sigh). :rolleyes:
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I was going to do a 3rd zone in the bedroom to go with the 50" plasma in there but now I think I will just put a cheap AVR and some in-ceilings in there.
You know, I believe this thread has inspired me to do something similar in my own house. I don't really need the sound anywhere else at this point, but it sounds like a fun little project to take up on a weekend or something.

Just another thing for the wife to shake her head about... (sigh). :rolleyes:
 
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