Speaker Polish

[snappy_snoopy]

hi,
Has anyone around here ever used a wood polish to clean and spruce up their speakers ??

If so any suggestions, i at the moment just got a linseed oil and hopefully that will do the trick but before i embark i wanted some outside input on the idea.

Thanks in advance for all replies

 

[mudrummer99]

Never used anything on speakers, but I usually use Linseed oil on just about anything that is wood.

Mike

 

[unreal.freak]

ive always used this on my cabinets http://www.colgate.com/app/MurphyOilSoap/US/EN/Products.cwsp

it is probably made from linseed oil

Peace,
Tommy

 

[jostenmeat]

Interesting question. I use auto swirl remover, NOT polish, on my instruments, and that includes french polish finishes that are known to be ultra delicate. I know it sounds crazy, but it does the same thing that the little specialty rip off bottles do at hi-end music stores, AFAIK. I'm still on the same bottle after who knows how many years.

I swore* I recently saw some audio company recommend Formby's lemon oil, but I can't remember which company that was. I've used this product on fingerboards and fretboards, but would never use it on my instruments' "body".

I'm sure the speaker makers here know what to use.

 

[Alex2507]

What does the manual say? I'm gonna guess they might suggest a damp cloth at the very most.
My girl loves vinegar & water. (Don't even ... )

For problem area's on varnished doors I have used Formsbee Wood Polish or Cleaner or something. Home Depot has it and it's green. I would definitely NOT put oil on a finish UNTIL I found out what that finish was and how oil would react with it. I have seen a book called Understanding Wood Finishes that goes into all that. I think some polishes like Pledge have silicone in them and that's the kiss of death if you ask me.

 

[snappy_snoopy]

ive always used this on my cabinets http://www.colgate.com/app/MurphyOilSoap/US/EN/Products.cwsp

it is probably made from linseed oil

Peace,
Tommy

thanks for that, any further recommendations are welcome

 

[Adam]

My girl loves vinegar & water.

Ahhh, the freshness of spring.

(Don't even ... )

Oh, please. It's Saturday night. I was there before I even read those two words (and I'm guessing that I wasn't the only one).


EDIT: To Snappy, are these speakers that are valuable to you? If not, it can't hurt to try. For what it's worth, I use mineral oil on the wood handles on my kitchen knives.

 

[Alex2507]

Ahhh, the freshness of spring..

It's more like a tossed salad.

Oh, please. It's Saturday night. I was there before I even read those two words (and I'm guessing that I wasn't the only one). .

You're a genleman, as always.

EDIT: To Snappy, are these speakers that are valuable to you? If not, it can't hurt to try. For what it's worth, I use mineral oil on the wood handles on my kitchen knives.

There is a special oil for cutting boards though.

 

[snappy_snoopy]

Ahhh, the freshness of spring.


Oh, please. It's Saturday night. I was there before I even read those two words (and I'm guessing that I wasn't the only one).


EDIT: To Snappy, are these speakers that are valuable to you? If not, it can't hurt to try. For what it's worth, I use mineral oil on the wood handles on my kitchen knives.

well i am going to be using the linseed on my other furniture and was thinking "why not on speaker cabinets too", just wondering what the experts are using out there, but i guess you dont really do anything so neither will I.

I am mainly concerned with everything turning to custard and getting a splotchy speaker cabinet. These are for my main floor standing speakers i was refering too in this case and i dont really want them ruined so they do mean alot to me in short.

 

[armaraas]

I believe Aperion recommends Murphy Oil Soap for their wood veneers.
Of course that doesn't necessarily mean it's good for all speaker finishes.

 

[Alex2507]

I figure that the wood is sealed and finished. Why put anything on there that would leave a residue? You just want to take dust off, right? Maybe some fingerprints?

 

[jostenmeat]

There is a special oil for cutting boards though.

Didn't know that. I should get me some, as I use 4 of em.

I am mainly concerned with everything turning to custard and getting a splotchy speaker cabinet. These are for my main floor standing speakers i was refering too in this case and i dont really want them ruined so they do mean alot to me in short.

Whatever you choose, its generally recommended to try a dab in a very hidden spot. Try the bottom. FWIW, I've been using the auto swirl remover for years on very fine instruments, including on a violin that is well over two centuries old. I got this tip from a fine luthier local to me. Its in fact what he uses.

 

[snappy_snoopy]

I figure that the wood is sealed and finished. Why put anything on there that would leave a residue? You just want to take dust off, right? Maybe some fingerprints?

Yes you are right it is more for dirt and grim build up that i would be removing, i dont want to be damaging the finish, currently the veneer is non glossy just rose wood from a Wharfedale diamond 9.5 floor standing speaker. My others are not as exposed so dont see much of the dusty goodness this world has to offer.

 

[Tod]

A few oils and what they do:

Mineral Oil - non-drying oil, soaks into wood. Good for things like knives and cutting boards as mentioned.

Danish, Tung Oil - Drying oils. They're the ones that make oil-soaked rags light on fire. When exposed to air, they oxidize, harden, and become no longer oily. They're some of the common ones used for wood finish.

Linseed Oil - used as a part of the above two with additives, but comes in different flavors. Boiled drys faster. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing that unboiled, which I've used as paint thinner, is more likely to damage other finishes and stuff. Check which one you have.

And definitely check on a hidden spot first, and probably wait a few days. Are you going to spot-finish them or do the whole thing? Very small spots shouldn't be too visible if something happens, but doing the whole thing would at least look consistent. Also, oil finishes are hand-rubbed. Apply, let soak ~30 minutes, then rub off with a dry rag. Mineral oil just soaks in and stays there, so doesn't get the nice hand-rubbed appearance.

Two other notes - I'm assuming these are speakers with real wood finish? Vinyl would probably melt. Also, oil finishes are generally not glossy much at all. If you want a glossy or semi-gloss finish, some oil-based polyurethane finish can be mixed in depending on how much you need. Oil has an advantage in that it soaks in, which the poly doesn't. The poly dries faster though and can be shiny (if you like that sort of thing), so mixing can provide a bit of both.

There are many other options to be found for people's special wood finish recipes. One involves melting some beeswax and mixing it with some danish and mineral oils or something. The beeswax I think helps a little with long-term waterproofing as well as adding another sort of glow to the finish.


*edit - saw you replied while typing the above.

 

[Tod]

If it is just dust removal, I'd recommend against it. These oils set up between application and removal, and dust tends to get stuck into the oils and won't wipe off. I'd be afraid you might make it worse. However, if you can remove the dust and wanted to refinish the oils should be safe with real wood, non-glossy veneer.

What you might try is a tack cloth. They're designed for post-sanding, prefinishing wood treatment. Like $3 for a pack of them. They're just sticky rags that pick up all dust and stuff off a surface without leaving a residue. Following that, any finish should be safer.

 

[snappy_snoopy]

A few oils and what they do:

*edit - saw you replied while typing the above.

Lol this is sounding like a dangerous process where alot can go wrong maybe i just stick to good old water and a cloth

 

[Tod]

Well, depends on exactly what you need.

One thing about mineral oil that is good for your situation I didn't think of before is that it doesn't dry, just soaks in and not all that fast at that. For cleaning, it would be maybe the safest bet. It would take off any grease, fingerprints, and stuff like that and could be wiped clean easily and shouldn't do any damage. Still, check it in a safe spot...

 

[unreal.freak]

There is a special oil for cutting boards though.

Ive always used vegetable oils on my cutting boards. Have you ever tried it. Post up a link for what you are using i may give it a look.


Thanks,
Tommy

 

[Alex2507]

Ive always used vegetable oils on my cutting boards. Have you ever tried it. Post up a link for what you are using i may give it a look.


Thanks,
Tommy

I use those white plastic cutting boards so there is no need for any kind of treatment. The book I mentioned Understanding Wood Finishes covered it. I think you could find something appropriate in a wood specialty store like Wood Crafters. I'm not to sure about vegetable oil either because it's organic. Another interesting tid bit is that you can shelac wooden bowls but you have to mix your own shelac using booze. IIRC 190 proof Everclear would work. Regular denatured alcohol has been poisoned so that we can't get drunk without paying a booze tax but you can shelac doors with it as you won't be eating off of them.

 

[cbraver]

I'm one of those people that falls in love with speakers and never sells them. So, I have all kinds of relatively old speakers. I've never needed to use anything other than a damp cloth.

For cleaning dust out of where the driver mounts and such, just use some compressed air... lightly. Spray the can a few times to make sure there isn't any moisture and hold it only as close as you need to. I'd recommend not using standard compressed air line pressures (like if you work at a shop that has air lines), but if you use an air compressor instead of a can, put a diffusor on the end of some kind to raise the static pressure and lower the air velocity.