You'll notice that it doesn't give any detailed information on programming the DSP. So where did you learn to program that DSP, I wonder?
Did you at least follow the advice to not boost anything more than 6 dB?
Did you notice that it never once mentions running Audyssey on top of miniDSP?
I'm glad you chimed in, because it is your room that allows to me say with confidence, flat doesn't necessarily sound accurate. I offered to help you personally with the exact filters for your room, based on the knowledge I gained from this book, to tune your room. You are fortunate enough to have a dedicated space, so unlike Pogre and I, you've only got a few modes to deal with. But apparently that was too much, because you disregarded what I gave you, took the methods for programming the DSP and created bloated, booming bass. I've heard it. Some frequencies rang through just fine, but particularly the low notes of movie LFE content were felt far more than they were heard. I think the knowledge in this book would give you the tools to achieve far better sound. Why would anyone argue with that?
And I'm still here offering to help you, and anyone! But just like with Pogre, I am going to continue asking that you swap the time you've spent debating me on the validity of methods recommended from a book, and actually try them. You both have literally spent more time debating me than it would take to use a tape measure and divide that value in to 1131.
Again, all I've done is offer to help based on knowledge gained from a book! But that help requires you to answer the very specific questions I've asked, previously. Want to try something different? Share your measurements and EQ inputs.
“You'll notice that it doesn't give any detailed information on programming the DSP.”
1. Properly position all of your subwoofers for best performance. Also consider seating locations and how you can move them to help achieve this goal. This is known as positional EQ.
2. Get all of your subs playing the same bass signal (mono LFE + summed bass from all channels set to small in your receiver's bass management).
3. Route the subwoofer outputs of your AV receiver into a device like mDSP 2x4 to manipulate level, delay, PEQ function, etc.
4. Using your measurement system, be sure to adjust delay, level, phase, crossover points, etc to get all of your subs playing well together by minimizing acoustical cancellations and getting the smoothest frequency response possible for all of your seats. Start initially with the two most important seats, then expand outward to all of your seats as you hone in the response.
Note: Measure all subs + main L/R speakers in mono from 10Hz to 200Hz for each seat.
5. Once you've got all of your subs properly integrated, use EQ to flatten peaks and boost sparingly (never more than +6dB) to fix dips. If boosting doesn't fix a dip, don't do it!
Perhaps this isn’t detailed enough in your opinion. Tell
@gene. While you’re at it tell Dr. Toole who proofread this article, and since it’s so important, ask him why he didn’t demand to include measuring every nook and cranny of your room as a crucial step, before he signed off?
“Did you at least follow the advice to not boost anything more than 6 dB?”
LMAO… so in one breath you’re critical that it didn’t give
any programming advice, and now you’re bringing up said advice in a vain attempt to make a point. The advice as given was not to use more than 6 dB of boost to fix a dip. I actually gave no boost to fix any dips. I actually attribute this to reading the Mark Seaton list which you flippantly disregarded.
“Did you notice that it never once mentions running Audyssey on top of miniDSP?”
So what? I ran Audyssey on top of it, it took no more than 15 minutes, and liked what it did. I never DEMAND anyone run Audyssey if they don’t like it, but for me it did nothing to hurt any of my goals, or the stated goals in this article. I wouldn’t crap in anyone’s cherrios if they didn’t run Audyssey.
“I'm glad you chimed in, because it is your room that allows to me say with confidence, flat doesn't necessarily sound accurate.”
LMAO… Again, you’ve made another incorrect assumption to support your bias. My set up, as you heard,
did not measure flat.
“I offered to help you personally with the exact filters for your room; based on the knowledge I gained from this book, to tune your room. You are fortunate enough to have a dedicated space, so unlike Pogre and I, you've only got a few modes to deal with.”
Beyond the filters you provided, I thought additional adjustments made it more appealing FOR ME.
“But apparently that was too much, because you disregarded what I gave you, took the methods for programming the DSP and created bloated, booming bass. I've heard it. Some frequencies rang through just fine, but particularly the low notes of movie LFE content were felt far more than they were heard.”
Again, I liked this tactile effect too, but turning down the bass is simple. It’s worth mentioning that you never said, “Hey Grant, do you like the bass where it’s at, my taste would be lower, let’s turn it down a bit and see what it sounds like.” No, IMO you were too punch drunk on your own Dunning-Kruger kick with your lay opinions from Dr. Toole’s book to give a damn.
“I think the knowledge in this book would give you the tools to achieve far better sound. Why would anyone argue with that?”
Spoiler alert: You’re not the only one who’s read it. Does Dr. Toole like it that you promote his book like a Scientologist would promote Dianetics, by L. Ron Hubbard? I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m debating your interpretation and application of said material. Nowhere in this Dr. Toole approved article does it DEMAND measuring every nook and cranny of your room and a bunch of other stuff which you DEMAND be done.
I believe
@gene gives a better, more detailed, and far, far more concise illustration of how to properly apply DSP subwoofer correction.
