single svs pb2000 or dual svs pb1000's?

everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
Hey, on THAT note...I just found out I CAN order the HSU's to Canada. I'd just have to pay the exchange and duty...but would a VTF-3 MK5 be a better fit than an SVS PB2000 pro? I THINK they'd end up being pretty close in overall price
I'd probably do the HSU for the larger driver, the SVS is great and over built, in a good way. I think you would have to move up to the 3000 series to get similar performance.
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Field Marshall
VMPS-TIII

VMPS-TIII

Full Audioholic
If your handy, building them gets you real performance to cost ratio.
The tech built into the HSU at $799 is hard to duplicate even if you build it yourself. It won't include the amp or the multiport tuning, the grill or the beautiful finish of the HSU. I'm happy to build my own cabinet when a better solution doesn't exist or if I can save $500 or more and have the same or better sound quality. In my opinion, neither of those parameters will be met with a kit.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
The tech built into the HSU at $799 is hard to duplicate even if you build it yourself. It won't include the amp or the multiport tuning, the grill or the beautiful finish of the HSU. I'm happy to build my own cabinet when a better solution doesn't exist or if I can save $500 or more and have the same or better sound quality. In my opinion, neither of those parameters will be met with a kit.
I like the HSU FWIW. You can build multi port tunning (I dont need it personally) if needed. Can veneer and finish better than anything they offer (again if needed). The amp is easy for me as I use minidsp and external amps.

Just a large example. This driver and an inukedsp amp would be $600, wood $70, veneer $60
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Field Marshall
Already checked that out. Dont know if that will be enough
With your size requirements, I'd take a sealed 15" ultimax over a ported 10" any day of the week. Throw in a minidsp and I'm fairly certain you will blow 2 10's out of the water.

The only Hsu that meets your wife's size requirements is the ULS 15 MK2, and I'd consider that if you don't want to build it yourself. Partsexpress also has a more expensive 15" option that fits your requirements with dual passive radiators.

https://www.parts-express.com/passive-dayton-audio-reference-15-with-dual-passive-radiator-subwoofer-kit--300-7156
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
Here is the Zaph model of the 15" Dayton RS without the EQ. Going with an external amp with dsp and room gain you would a killer unit, especially with duals.

This is/was John's personal subwoofer.



Resizer_15969508330300.jpg
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Ninja
I like the HSU FWIW. You can build multi port tunning (I dont need it personally) if needed. Can veneer and finish better than anything they offer (again if needed). The amp is easy for me as I use minidsp and external amps.

Just a large example. This driver and an inukedsp amp would be $600, wood $70, veneer $60
But that 18" sub won't be working like a real infrasonic driver in a 3 cf sealed box with an F3 at 40 Hz. The 15" Ultimax driver would provide an F3 of 35 Hz in same volume box which should be more acceptable for most music and movie soundtracks. For the room size, at least two such subs would have to be used.

For driving the pair with both voice coils on each unit connected in series, the Crown XLS 2002 could be used and it should be plugged into a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
But that 18" sub won't be working like a real infrasonic driver in a 3 cf sealed box with an F3 at 40 Hz. The 15" Ultimax driver would provide an F3 of 35 Hz in same volume box which should be more acceptable for most music and movie soundtracks. For the room size, at least two such subs would have to be used.

For driving the pair with both voice coils on each unit connected in series, the Crown XLS 2002 could be used and it should be plugged into a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
I was just throwing examples out and they all would need dsp/eq to get into the teens with the sealed boxes and hit a price point. I had John's plot handy just to show what the response looked like. The ultmax is suited for sealed and the rs favors ported.

The 18" I mentioned would have been for a larger ported box compare it to the HSU.
 
B

Border411

Audioholic Intern
But that 18" sub won't be working like a real infrasonic driver in a 3 cf sealed box with an F3 at 40 Hz. The 15" Ultimax driver would provide an F3 of 35 Hz in same volume box which should be more acceptable for most music and movie soundtracks. For the room size, at least two such subs would have to be used.

For driving the pair with both voice coils on each unit connected in series, the Crown XLS 2002 could be used and it should be plugged into a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
While I had thought about a dedicated circuit, I dismissed it as no one had brought it up. I should have added that before I did the finish work in the remodel. DOH!
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Field Marshall
Most of these links are out of stock.
Yeah, their sub kits go in and out of stock quite frequently due to their popularity.

FWIW, mine was out of stock when I ordered it and it shipped within 2 days of when they said it would be back in stock.
 
VMPS-TIII

VMPS-TIII

Full Audioholic
Yeah, their sub kits go in and out of stock quite frequently due to their popularity.

FWIW, mine was out of stock when I ordered it and it shipped within 2 days of when they said it would be back in stock.
From what I'm reading the kits leave out binding posts, speaker screws, wire, crossover (if needed), and you need to buy wood clamps (for glueing). One person said he used 12 clamps. By the time you buy all these items and tools you could easy have purchased a finished sub. Sounds like this is for someone who enjoys woodworking and plans to do more of it?
 
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LtDanNewLegs

LtDanNewLegs

Audioholic Intern
I'll be honest, the idea DOES intrigue me, but if I were to do that I'd go right for the big 18" one and not look back. I think you'd be able to setup a pretty good looking unit there for just over $1000 and you can't find a decent 18" sub for that price.


My only concern is just HOW good it is across the board...does it just THUMP real big, or is it smooth and controlled when you need it to be? That's where I'd be most concerned about dropping that $1000+...but I'd still be willing to look into it more for sure.

In Canada, I just can't get easy access to this stuff.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
From what I'm reading the kits leave out binding posts, speaker screws, wire, crossover (if needed), and you need to buy wood clamps (for glueing). On person said he used 12 clamps. By the time you buy all these items and tools you could easy have purchased a finished sub. Sounds like this is for someone who enjoys woodworking and plans to do more of it?
Many of us have the tools in general and there are ways to assemble a lot of the kits without them. I use a nail gun to hold panels in place when I don't want to use as many clamps. There have been people that use painters tape and a weight.

The real question is why wouldn't you want an excuse to buy more tools :D ?
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
I'll be honest, the idea DOES intrigue me, but if I were to do that I'd go right for the big 18" one and not look back. I think you'd be able to setup a pretty good looking unit there for just over $1000 and you can't find a decent 18" sub for that price.


My only concern is just HOW good it is across the board...does it just THUMP real big, or is it smooth and controlled when you need it to be? That's where I'd be most concerned about dropping that $1000+...but I'd still be willing to look into it more for sure.

In Canada, I just can't get easy access to this stuff.
Mark Seaton uses the ultimax driver in his most popular unit.
I'd think you could do it for under 1k, no problem and use a transform to achieve the low end goal. The Linkwitz Transform is a good and well documented one.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Ninja
I'll be honest, the idea DOES intrigue me, but if I were to do that I'd go right for the big 18" one and not look back. I think you'd be able to setup a pretty good looking unit there for just over $1000 and you can't find a decent 18" sub for that price.


My only concern is just HOW good it is across the board...does it just THUMP real big, or is it smooth and controlled when you need it to be? That's where I'd be most concerned about dropping that $1000+...but I'd still be willing to look into it more for sure.

In Canada, I just can't get easy access to this stuff.
You can order from Canada. But Parts-Express have outrageous shipping charges for Canada. Once, they charged me over $35 for mailing a tiny software peripheral device to Montreal.
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Field Marshall
From what I'm reading the kits leave out binding posts, speaker screws, wire, crossover (if needed), and you need to buy wood clamps (for glueing). One person said he used 12 clamps. By the time you buy all these items and tools you could easy have purchased a finished sub. Sounds like this is for someone who enjoys woodworking and plans to do more of it?
I get it, you're looking for any excuse to not go this route. I mean honestly, how many of us here, on an audio forum no less, don't have extra speaker wire laying around to use? That's one of the more pointless cons you could bring up. You need at best a few feet for the connection in the box. I've got dozens of feet of speaker wire to spare. Leaving out binding posts lets the purchaser decide how they want to connect the sub, some people use speakon connections because they're using pro amps, and others just use regular binding posts, etc etc. Besides that, for a couple more bucks you can buy all those things from PE. DIY isn't for everyone, but if you're interested in it, it's a good kit with good performance especially for the size. Someone who enjoys woodworking would probably just buy the driver and make their own box instead of ordering a pre-cut one.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
Flac can be a variety of formats losslessly encoded was the point...it doesn't indicate a particular "quality"
Right. You convert a crappy quality MP3 file to a Flac file then what you have is a crappy quality Flac file. It's going to sound the same.
 

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