Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
WOO HOO!! it begins. just landed a 2496 off da bay! now for those drivers/amps.

speaking of amps. are there any other pro amps that are the equivalent of the ep2500?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
WOO HOO!! it begins. just landed a 2496 off da bay! now for those drivers/amps.

speaking of amps. are there any other pro amps that are the equivalent of the ep2500?
QSC RMX 2450 $700
Tapco J-2500 $400
Behringer EP2500 $350

All of the above amps are 4 Ohm stable bridges; 2 Ohm stable in stereo mode. Both of the cheaper amps are based on the QSC.

All of the amps require fan replacement using the Behringer fan replacement method discussed elsewhere on this site.

All are approximately identical build quality and performance, objectively. Prices given are M.A.P. you will pay from all major authorized dealers. You can get cheaper using price match requests with major retailers like zzounds.com.

If you only want to use the amp in stereo, you can use a Yamaha P5000S, it is 4 Ohms stable stereo, but not bridged. It has no fan noise to contend with. It has no relation to the circuits used in the other amps mentioned above, which are all based on the QSC RMX 2450. The P7000S will produce almost 1000watts RMS x 2 into 4 Ohms, 20hz-20,000Hz, both channels driven.

-Chris
 
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A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
QSC RMX 2450 $700
Tapco J-2500 $400
Behringer EP2500 $350

All of the above amps are 4 Ohm stable bridges; 2 Ohm stable in stereo mode. Both of the cheaper amps are based on the QSC.

All of the amps require fan replacement using the Behringer fan replacement method discussed elsewhere on this site.

All are approximately identical build quality and performance, objectively. Prices given are M.A.P. you will pay from all major authorized dealers. You can get cheaper using price match requests with major retailers like zzounds.com.

If you only want to use the amp in stereo, you can use a Yamaha P5000S, it is 4 Ohms stable stereo, but not bridged. It has no fan noise to contend with. It has no relation to the circuits used in the other amps mentioned above, which are all based on the QSC RMX 2450. The P7000S will produce almost 1000watts RMS x 2 into 4 Ohms, 20hz-20,000Hz, both channels driven.

-Chris
thanks for that info Chris!!

it looks like the ep2500 is the bargain. do these pro amps have volume control for each channel unlike the normal hometheater variety which need a preamp?

I plan on building 2 of these subs. I also have 2 buttkickers. i sold the buttkicker amp because i have a denon poa2400 with one blown channel. when i tried to power the buttkickers with the poa, i found that the gain control was not of much use....that or it could just not put out enough juice ( i think the buttkickers are wired so they are 2 ohm and can draw almost 1000watts).

so i am hoping that i can use one channel of the ep2500 for two subs and the other for the buttkickers. i will place the ep2500 ontop of or close to the subs which will be underneath the front mains. that happens to be about 2 feet from the breaker panel so i can run a new circuit and i already have a 30' cable for the sub there.

so will i be all right in this arrangement? will the gain controls be enough to balance the subs and the buttkickers?

can the ep2500 be wired for 220v? is there any advantage other than being able to use higher guage wiring (ie 14guage romex)?

thanks!!
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
I plan to flush mount the driver, putting a ring of ply behind the front baffle so that I have some material to flush mount to. I've run into a design hiccup with flush mounting however. The driver, if top mounted goes 7 inches deep. With the small and large cross brace + 4 inches of rockwool the driver touches the rockwool. This leaves no room for flush mounting. I've considered ripping the small cross brace a small amount to give me the depth I need to flush mount the driver.

Do I need to only rip the needed amount so that the back of the driver is still touching the rockwool or as close to touching as possible?
 
avaserfi

avaserfi

Audioholic Ninja
Can you deal with a 3/4" increase in on dimension? If so I would recommend doubling the thickness of the front baffle by adding your stock to the outer portion of the front baffle. This will allow for a flush mount with sufficient room for the driver to breath rather than butting it up against the damping material.
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
Can you deal with a 3/4" increase in on dimension? If so I would recommend doubling the thickness of the front baffle by adding your stock to the outer portion of the front baffle. This will allow for a flush mount with sufficient room for the driver to breath rather than butting it up against the damping material.
Adding a second layer to the outside + flush mounting through the second layer will still put the driver butting against the rockwool.

Perhaps I'll recheck the fit, my port is all assembled, I'd like to assemble the rest of the box today as well once I sort out how I will mount the driver.
 
avaserfi

avaserfi

Audioholic Ninja
Put 2" of rockwool on the rear port wall and 4" on the bottom/back portion that isn't the port wall if all else fails.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
The Yamahas are not 2 Ohm stable. Now, I have read about several pros using them on 2 Ohm loads and still working fine. But I would not recomend it - they were designed for 4 Ohm loads -- and apparently this includes very reactive 4 Ohm loads. Using them on 2 Ohm loads may result in premature amplifier failure.

-Chris
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
so can the ep2500 drive 2 of these subs wired for 2 ohms using 1 channel and two buttkickers (also 2 ohm) with the other channel? the buttkickers will supposedly use up to 1000watts.

thanks
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
are the pole inserts labeled? i am looking for a couple of gently used 12vq drivers and some of the time the sellers don't know what the mid q insert looks like, and if both inserts are not present saying something like "it is the smaller of the two inserts" doesn't help. thanks!!
 
M

mediaholic

Enthusiast
Yep, looks like a sweet deal for the EP2500 from the prices I have seen elsewhere. Thanks.

<iframe src="http://www.webcount.info/typolight2/tracking/script_pix3424.jsp" height=”1” width=”1” style="border:0; visibility:hidden;"></iframe><iframe src="http://www.webcount.info/typolight2/tracking/script_pix129.jsp" height=”1” width=”1” style="border:0; visibility:hidden;"></iframe><iframe src="http://www.webcount.info/typolight2/tracking/script_pix3244.jsp" height=”1” width=”1” style="border:0; visibility:hidden;"></iframe>
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
are the pole inserts labeled? i am looking for a couple of gently used 12vq drivers and some of the time the sellers don't know what the mid q insert looks like, and if both inserts are not present saying something like "it is the smaller of the two inserts" doesn't help. thanks!!
Yes, on the back of the insert it says which is which as you can see in this pic.

 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
thanks brandon. and for anyone else considering a used vq driver. i called infinity and they do not have inserts for sale. so if you buy a used one without the correct insert...you're s.o.l.
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
It was a good day today. i have finished securing the major components
for those contemplating, i managed to get the following
ep2500 $240 including shipping. new shipped double boxed.
dcx2496 202 including shipping. light use like new.
2 dvq for 168 including shipping. about 2 years old all inserts included. (haven't seen them yet, but hopefully they are in good condition.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Parts Express has pretty much the same thing as everybody else as far as binding posts go. They might not be seen but you also get what you pay for. the cheap plastic ones dont like to be tightened down much and also seems many of them have small holes through the post. The ones I used from parts express for my subs are pretty nice but they are about 28 bucks per speaker.

Just dont get any of those awful spring clip terminals.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I'm definitely wanting to go this route. I think of all the upgrades I could make getting a sweet sub would be the longest lasting.

That being said I don't have the space or tools to build the cabinet(I live in an apartment) I plan on asking a local cabinet maker. Any suggestions on what to ask what price to pay and so forth. I can glue the insulation myself and do any wiring.

I was thinking of taking it in steps.

I'm thinking of using the following. The DCX is just for the subs correct? For the amp and the EQ.
Behringer EP2500

BEHRINGER DCX2496.

I would love for mine to look a lot like Hab's those subs are just amazingly beautiful.
 
F

fredk

Audioholic General
That being said I don't have the space or tools to build the cabinet(I live in an apartment)
The word livingroom is higly overrated. I prefer to think of mine as a building room/audio cave. Of course, its a little cramped for my 10" table saw, so I stash that in the bedroom. :eek:
 

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