Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

[lsiberian]

What is the recommended hole size for this front? For the plate wires.

 

[armstrr]

DAMN!!

i just opened the box of my two supposed 12dvqs. they are 12.1 's!!!!!

so am i screwed or will these work closely. i'm building 2, so i won't need to push them hard. if they will totally not work, i can push paypal to refund my money and get the right ones....its just more time.

man, is that ebay seller going to get an earful.

 

[lsiberian]

DAMN!!

i just opened the box of my two supposed 12dvqs. they are 12.1 's!!!!!

so am i screwed or will these work closely. i'm building 2, so i won't need to push them hard. if they will totally not work, i can push paypal to refund my money and get the right ones....its just more time.

man, is that ebay seller going to get an earful.

Those will work fine in that enclosure they are very similar. That's what I'm building mine with.

FYI the DVQ isn't the right sub either.

 

[alexwakelin]

FYI the DVQ isn't the right sub either.

There are no less then 4 kappa perfect 12 drivers, correct?

Perfect 12
Perfect 12.1
Perfect 12 VQ
Perfect 12 DVQ

Can be a bit confusing.

 

[lsiberian]

There are no less then 4 kappa perfect 12 drivers, correct?

Perfect 12
Perfect 12.1
Perfect 12 VQ
Perfect 12 DVQ

Can be a bit confusing.

I think any of them would work just fine in that enclosure.

The box was designed for the Perfect 12 VQ

Just looking at some differences and found that the 12.1 is very similar. Some differences to note. It has a higher sensitivity rating and a little lower wattage rating. It's frequency response is from 18 to 150. So maybe the really low stuff has a bit better response.

the Perfect 12.1(which I am using for my build as a cheaper alternative) tends to be much cheaper and has a very similar response. I would suspect their are very few differences. I think they all use CMMD. The magnet may have very slight differences, but the response I would expect to be nearly the same. Either way the Perfect 12.1s in that box would probably smoke anything commercial under 1000 dollars. So don't worry you will still probably get an amazing response. Especially with 2 subs. Just make sure you get a Behringer EP2500 and DCX2496. Also make sure you build the cabinets out of 3/4" birch.

I suggest not making a big fuss out of it. Especially if you paid only 120 for it(the price of a 12.1 these days.)

I hope that helps. I'm building the same sub and using the drivers you bought. I don't think it's a big deal. There may be minute differences between the two but both look almost the same.

 

[alexwakelin]

I suggest not making a big fuss out of it. Especially if you paid only 120 for it(the price of a 12.1 these days.)

I paid $120 for TWO 12.1's

 

[lsiberian]

I paid $120 for TWO 12.1's

lol you made out like a bandit quit complaining!

I would be hush hush with the seller. He could have gotten more.

the vq's cost about 180 each. Consider it a 240 you can spend on something else.

 

[jamie2112]

I paid $120 for TWO 12.1's

Holy moly thats a good deal.......

 

[WmAx]

DAMN!!

i just opened the box of my two supposed 12dvqs. they are 12.1 's!!!!!

so am i screwed or will these work closely. i'm building 2, so i won't need to push them hard. if they will totally not work, i can push paypal to refund my money and get the right ones....its just more time.

man, is that ebay seller going to get an earful.

They should work fine, but the 12VQ *may* have improved linearity, but I am not sure. I have some 10.1 Perfect units on my computer speaker 3 way stereo monitors, and they go very loud and clean/transparent. The 650x 2 watt (EP2500) amplifier I am using to drive them clips well before I can push the woofers to their limit. The *.1 was the predecessor to the Perfect VQ. the .1 is cheaper now because it is a non-current/discontinued product. When it was new/current, it retailed for more $$$ than the VQ. The .1 has an aluminum cone. The VQ has a magnesium cone. The Perfect has a fixed motor system that is almost exactly the value of the VQ with the mid Q insert. The VQ has the variable motor system.

As with any ported system driven with high power, be certain to use the recommended subsonic filter to prevent large signals under port tuning from the driver. This is especially critical for HT use.

-Chris

 

[armstrr]

the seller is being reasonable and will allow me to relist them on ebay and ship them out for him. if anyone is interested in two 12.1 s for about the same price as one 12VQ, pm asap before i list them.

 

[avaserfi]

For the price you got them I would keep the 12.1s they should work well enough in the enclosure to be worth the savings IMO.

 

[lsiberian]

the seller is being reasonable and will allow me to relist them on ebay and ship them out for him. if anyone is interested in two 12.1 s for about the same price as one 12VQ, pm asap before i list them.

Stick with what you have. Unless you are just rolling in the funds.

You got 2 of those things for the street price of one of those. It may actually be a better driver. I suggest trying it out first. Then if you are dissapointed go for the other. That sub has a little lower frequency bottom than the VQ according to specs from Infinity. So in theory you might get better low end response. Practically even with that different driver you will blow away any commercial sub under 1000 dollars.

I suggest you take your extra cash and put it towards something else.

 

[armstrr]

rolling in funds? hardly. but i do want to get what i paid for. i ended up stumbling upon and securing a couple of 12vqs for a great price within minutes of finding that i had been sent the wrong drivers. maybe i should build 4 and do some head to head testing???!!!!

the good thing is i can use the boxes from the 12vqs to ship out the 12.1s.

I got the recommended birch ply yesterday as well as some rubber feet. i won an auction for some M&K binding posts. now to bug the OP for some OC705....

 

[lsiberian]

You can use 8lb rock wool too.

 

[armstrr]

i built the port/bracing assembly today. i should have used my pocket hole jig, but i was impatient and just glued it and used a finish nailer to hold things together till the glue sets.

in case anyone follows my advice and has lowes/hd cut your sheets down, leave your self some room to square things up. the panel saw at lowes was off quite a bit. Use a square to check the corners and always use a square corner to work off the table saw fence. it sounds obvious, but the out of square amount is not noticeable with the eye...until you are trying to fit things together. at that point it is too late.

i also found out about 95% through my cutting that the birch ply i got was neither 3/4" and not 5/8"...she was 11/16". The plan dimentions only work perfectly for 3/4" material.

i'm going to make some local calls for insulation tomorrow. i see a pretty huge spread between 703 and 705. so, 703 definitely won't do for this build and i should get the 705 or 8lb rockwool, right?

 

[lsiberian]

i built the port/bracing assembly today. i should have used my pocket hole jig, but i was impatient and just glued it and used a finish nailer to hold things together till the glue sets.

in case anyone follows my advice and has lowes/hd cut your sheets down, leave your self some room to square things up. the panel saw at lowes was off quite a bit. Use a square to check the corners and always use a square corner to work off the table saw fence. it sounds obvious, but the out of square amount is not noticeable with the eye...until you are trying to fit things together. at that point it is too late.

i also found out about 95% through my cutting that the birch ply i got was neither 3/4" and not 5/8"...she was 11/16". The plan dimentions only work perfectly for 3/4" material.

i'm going to make some local calls for insulation tomorrow. i see a pretty huge spread between 703 and 705. so, 703 definitely won't do for this build and i should get the 705 or 8lb rockwool, right?

Yes you should always make sure sides are round. But if you have a router you can clean up edges.

You should use 705 or 8lb mineral wool made by the rock wool company. SPI should have some mineral wool. Not sure the cost difference. I also suggest a Great Gamma down the road for a pad for the subs.

The difference between 3/4" and 11/16" isn't huge so you should be fine as long as you got birch ply.

 

[armstrr]

its 10 ply birch (plus the veneer): very nice to work with. I'll rout sand the port edges round.

i should also mention i mad the small brace about 3/4" narrower than spec'ed since i have read that in some builds the driver is butt up against the insulation.

 

[armstrr]

found some Fibres FBX 1280. it is 2" thick and comes in 2'x4' sheets. I "think" this is 8lb/cf. it is listed on bob golds page. does this compare favorably to OC 705. I can compare the specs, but i'm not sure exactly what coeficients are important.

Did I mention i can get this for.....free? it happens to be made in my home town...funny what you find in your own back yard. i might have to make some diy accoustic panels!!

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

http://www.glasscellisofab.com/sheets/mineral/data_sheets/INDUSTRIAL BOARD 1240, 1260, 1210, 1212.pdf

 

[armstrr]

i'm feeling like an insecure, high maintenance girlfriend . perhaps i'll be a man and start my own build thread!

 

[armstrr]

The F-mods are only 12 db/octave slope which I don't think is steep enough. If the roll off of the enclosure is already 24 db/octave is another 12 db/octave sufficient?

If you buy 2 F-mods with their F-mod attenuator you get a 24 db slope but it doubles the filter frequency so I'd be rolling off at 40 Hz (no thanks).

I sent an email off to Harrison Labs to see what they say about an 18 Hz filter 4th or 5th order.

so did you end up using the fmod? i got an email from them and at 20hz they are only -3db. is that sufficient?