Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

G

Gladstone

Audiophyte
Alright. Ill just ebay it and purchase the vq. Going to take me a few weeks to complete it.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
anybody try building a kicker L7 square set up i would love to see that.
To my knowledge, the Kicker product is not very linear. It is pretty much a SPL producer and not well suited to hi-fi applications such as this. If it's just for home theater use and not music, I imagine the L7 would be fine. Also, if you keep the volume level relatively low in music use, it would sound fine, as you could keep the motor within it's linear stroke, which I presume is very short.

-Chris
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
To my knowledge, the Kicker product is not very linear. It is pretty much a SPL producer and not well suited to hi-fi applications such as this. If it's just for home theater use and not music, I imagine the L7 would be fine. Also, if you keep the volume level relatively low in music use, it would sound fine, as you could keep the motor within it's linear stroke, which I presume is very short.

-Chris
I also agree with this assessment. The linear range on that device is assummed to be minimal doe to nothing speacial in terms of motor design.
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
Has anyone taken the time to draw up the cut list on a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood? If so would you mind sharing? I haven't sat down to figure out if I need to buy one or two sheets for one sub.
 
J

jamie2112

Banned
I can say that this build sounds amazing with no eq at all. I will also say that adding the DCX as recommended makes the sub sound 110% better. Andrew has designed a killer sub. I would recommend this build to anyone not wanting to pay for an overpriced sub that won't do what this does....
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
The program worked well, I've attached the layout mainly to show that you need more than one 4x8 sheet of wood to make this build.

**Follow the cut list diagram at your own risk. I make no claim of it being the optimal arrangement to cut your wood** :)
 

Attachments

A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
The program worked well, I've attached the layout mainly to show that you need more than one 4x8 sheet of wood to make this build.

**Follow the cut list diagram at your own risk. I make no claim of it being the optimal arrangement to cut your wood** :)
alternatively, i'm sure it would be fairly easy to get by with one sheet and make the braces found on the 2nd sheet out of scrap hardwood like the OP did with oak.
 
T2T

T2T

Senior Audioholic
alternatively, i'm sure it would be fairly easy to get by with one sheet and make the braces found on the 2nd sheet out of scrap hardwood like the OP did with oak.
I totally agree. No since in buying a 2nd piece of birch, just to use 15% of it. Well, that is unless you plan on making more than one sub cabinet.
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
and for those who don't like manhandling full sheets, most lowes/home depots will do 2 cuts for free per sheet. this will make it easier to cut at home, not to mention transport. looking at the diagram, there are a couple of good cut points to get the home center to do.
 
Djizasse

Djizasse

Senior Audioholic
Exactly, it's easy to align the panels so that one cut at the middle will cut a lot of panels.
 
T2T

T2T

Senior Audioholic
My (used) Kappa VQ arrived today. The UPS "shipping" weight is over 26 Lbs. in the original box. Since it was used, the Mid-Q pole piece had been previously installed - yet, the price was right.

I won't be building the proper cabinet until April or so - when things warm up a bit outside and in the garage. For the time being, I mounted the driver in a 2.75 cu. ft. cabinet that I had with (2) 4" x 16" ports and a 200 watt plate amplifier.

I ran though some quick calibrations to get the sub even with my mains. In a word ... SICK is the only thing that comes to mind. One should have a license to own this driver. Yup, it's that amazing. Now, I just have to line up a source for some good birch plywood for the spring. :)
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
My (used) Kappa VQ arrived today. The UPS "shipping" weight is over 26 Lbs. in the original box. Since it was used, the Mid-Q pole piece had been previously installed - yet, the price was right.

I won't be building the proper cabinet until April or so - when things warm up a bit outside and in the garage. For the time being, I mounted the driver in a 2.75 cu. ft. cabinet that I had with (2) 4" x 16" ports and a 200 watt plate amplifier.

I ran though some quick calibrations to get the sub even with my mains. In a word ... SICK is the only thing that comes to mind. One should have a license to own this driver. Yup, it's that amazing. Now, I just have to line up a source for some good birch plywood for the spring. :)
i'm curious what the "right" price for a used driver like this would be including shipping?

can i assume they would be fairly difficult to damage since their power handling is so high? I found a guy who has a few of these used, but i was a little leary about a used car sub...are my fears unfounded and is there an easy way to inspect for damage before and/or after shipment?

if anyone would consider a used one, (single voice coil model as spec'ed here) i might have an extra 1 or 2 if i go used since this guy has 4 for sale used in a car setup).
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
alternatively, i'm sure it would be fairly easy to get by with one sheet and make the braces found on the 2nd sheet out of scrap hardwood like the OP did with oak.
If you have scrap hardwood lying around then sure, all I have lying around is MDF.

I'm actually having my pieces cut at a cabinet maker's shop and I'm only buying the wood that I use so it ends up being about 15 dollars more money than if I went to Lowes and bought 2 full sheets of hardwood ply. I'm buying Birch plywood, void free, from the cabinet maker.

I can borrow the tools, table saw, circular saw, etc and cut things myself but at 15 bucks more to have my wood precut on a CNC router...it was a no brainer.
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
What gauge wire is required for Sub to terminals

How heavy duty does the wire need to be running from the sub to the terminals on the box? I have some Belden cable that has three individually shielded 16 gauge runs braided through it. I may use that if 3 16 gauge runs per terminal will work.
 
J

jamie2112

Banned
I would recommend 12awg wire. Attach it firmly so it does not cause any vibration inside the cabinet. I stapled mine in and wire tied them....
 
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