Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
is there a difference in performance if the dual voice coil model is used?
 
J

jamie2112

Banned
I ended up buying the wrong ones but they work anywhooo. I got the dual voice coils instead of the single DUHHHH:eek: Next build I was going to try TC speakers...
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I ended up buying the wrong ones but they work anywhooo. I got the dual voice coils instead of the single DUHHHH:eek: Next build I was going to try TC speakers...
Considering what you already have, if you hope for any notable increase in performance(and here it will be increased SPL without loss of linearity), and you go TC, it's really only worth it go with at least TC3000 (same as AudioPulse AXIS) or better, like UltraLMS(well, slightly better than TC3000). Or, go with JL Audio W7; equivalent quality to these high end TC units.

Too bad you missed it; last week the 12" AP AXIS was half price on Parts Express!

-Chris
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I ended up buying the wrong ones but they work anywhooo. I got the dual voice coils instead of the single DUHHHH:eek: Next build I was going to try TC speakers...
You are lucky they are very close in parameters to the single voice coil units. :)

But for people reading this: you should use the single voice coil versions unless you happen to already have the DVC. They cabinet was designed for these, and will be slightly closer to the intended response characteristics using the version called for originally.

-Chris
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
My HT room is also my kids play room which means curious fingers poking cones in :| I'd like to do the build with a grill without adding another front panel to recess the driver so I was thinking I could cut a large 2" ring out of the 3/4 wood and glue it to the backside of the front panel. Then I would cut the front panel hole large enough to recess the driver and still have 3/4 or more wood depth to mount the sub. My question is I'll be displacing some volume with a 3/4 x 2" ring so is it critical that volume is adjusted for to maintain the clean, linear performance that everyone is talking about? I'll also be mounting the sub onto the ring, will that create unwanted resonance or should the ring be strong enough?

Hopefully I've explained myself well enough to not leave everyone scratching their heads, I tend to do that sometimes.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
My HT room is also my kids play room which means curious fingers poking cones in :
Poke the cone in? The Kappa Perfect has one of the thickest/stiffest cones I have seen used on a subwoofer. They would have to use a hammer to damage the cones, I imagine, not fingers/hands.
| I'd like to do the build with a grill without adding another front panel to recess the driver so I was thinking I could cut a large 2" ring out of the 3/4 wood and glue it to the backside of the front panel. Then I would cut the front panel hole large enough to recess the driver and still have 3/4 or more wood depth to mount the sub. My question is I'll be displacing some volume with a 3/4 x 2" ring so is it critical that volume is adjusted for to maintain the clean, linear performance that everyone is talking about? I'll also be mounting the sub onto the ring, will that create unwanted resonance or should the ring be strong enough?
It won't hurt anything. If you do not adjust the volume for this small difference, the effect will be so small, as to be irrelevant.

The high density dampening that has been specified in the build thread is important, however. It provides for maximum effect of dampening internal mechanical noise(s) and breached lower mid-range frequencies that go past the crossover and would otherwise reflect/resonate in the cabinet.

-Chris
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
Poke the cone in? The Kappa Perfect has one of the thickest/stiffest cones I have seen used on a subwoofer. They would have to use a hammer to damage the cones, I imagine, not fingers/hands.
Either way, I'm sure they could find some way to stick a barbie leg through the surround or something.

The high density dampening that has been specified in the build thread is important, however. It provides for maximum effect of dampening internal mechanical noise(s) and breached lower mid-range frequencies that go past the crossover and would otherwise reflect/resonate in the cabinet.

-Chris
I have some rockboard 60 which is 6 lb mineral board left over from my latest bookshelf build, I was planning on using that, making the 4" thick panels as recommended.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I would highly suggest the grille with the Kappa drivers & kids. My experience with the drivers (especially the original Kappas) is that the cone dents fairly easy. They are rigid & strong for their intended application, but for curious fingers, they can be dented.
 
Guiria

Guiria

Senior Audioholic
There reaches a point in ones life where you need to ask yourself "Are you in, or are you in?"

Just pulled the trigger on one 12VQ, wish me luck.

And Happy New Years.
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
There reaches a point in ones life where you need to ask yourself "Are you in, or are you in?"

Just pulled the trigger on one 12VQ, wish me luck.

And Happy New Years.
curious where you pulled the trigger? authorized dealer or otherwise?
 
T2T

T2T

Senior Audioholic
There reaches a point in ones life where you need to ask yourself "Are you in, or are you in?"

Just pulled the trigger on one 12VQ, wish me luck.

And Happy New Years.
I hear you. I'm *almost* in. :) Actually, I have a line on a slightly used 12VQ that I should be picking up on Sunday. Though, I think my cabinet construction might have to wait a few months ... the average temp is about 40 - 45 for my area, but still a lil' cold for some serious woodworking.

Congrats on your purchase. I'll be interested in following your progress.

Happy New Year! :)
 
A

armstrr

Junior Audioholic
just curious if the designers of this sub have ever looked at....

the Tempest-X (15")driver or the Shiva-X (12")?

From the reading i have done, it seams people can get very passionate about drivers and specific designs, so as a preamble, i'm not trying to start anything by asking about the Tempest. I like, and appreciate the time, effort and testing that has gone into the 12vq in this thread...it is that that is leading me towards this build.

With that said, what do the authors and others in the know think about the tempest-x (or Shiva. it can be had for little more than the 12vq (when it is in stock). from my understanding it has a very low distortion motor and HUGE excursion (27mm compared to the 12vq's 17mm) I don't pretend to understand what all the paramaters related to a sub's performance means, but excursion....i get.

so what are your thoughts, and thanks for sharing and enlightening a newb.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
the Tempest-X (15")driver or the Shiva-X (12")?

From the reading i have done, it seams people can get very passionate about drivers and specific designs, so as a preamble, i'm not trying to start anything by asking about the Tempest. I like, and appreciate the time, effort and testing that has gone into the 12vq in this thread...it is that that is leading me towards this build.

With that said, what do the authors and others in the know think about the tempest-x (or Shiva. it can be had for little more than the 12vq (when it is in stock). from my understanding it has a very low distortion motor and HUGE excursion (27mm compared to the 12vq's 17mm) I don't pretend to understand what all the paramaters related to a sub's performance means, but excursion....i get.

so what are your thoughts, and thanks for sharing and enlightening a newb.
What is really nice about the XBL2 enabled drivers such as the two you have mentioned (besides obvious linearity) is their relatively smooth inductace curve over the usable bandwidth, and low inductance/power compression. While they do not equal the W7/ upper end TC Sounds drivers for power compression they are still solid performers. The big issue that arises with them though is they tend to be best used in sealed or infinite baffle applications. Ported enclosures seem to get rather large (above 7ft^3) with them too.

When they are primarily designed for sealed and infinite baffle alignments, large excursion is very much needed/appreciated.

In essence, they are hardly as versatile as the Infinity, the JL W6v2, W7 or even TC Sounds drivers.

For an inexpensive sealed application, they may be worth a look.
 
J

jboogie

Junior Audioholic
Could someone post the specs they input into WinIsd Alpha for the mid Q? I have tried several times and it is just not working properly. (I built this box, and it sounds great, now I am playing with making my own design for dual woofers.)

Thanks guys!
 
F

fredk

Audioholic General
At the bottom of this article there are T/S parameters for all three tunings.

What is the Xmax on this driver? For some reason I had it as 15mm, but the article above shows 17mm.
 
G

Gladstone

Audiophyte
Is there anything wrong with using infinity kappa perfect 12.1? I already have one.
* 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
* aluminum cone with high-roll butyl-rubber surround
* massive cast-aluminum basket
* suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
* power range: 75-350 watts RMS (1,400 watts peak power)
* frequency response: 18-200 Hz
* sensitivity: 96 dB
* top mount depth: 6-1/8"
* sealed box volume: 1.0 cu. ft.
* ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
* Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2, 3

Should I just buy the newer version? I plan to start building the cabinet tomorrow.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
At the bottom of this article there are T/S parameters for all three tunings.

What is the Xmax on this driver? For some reason I had it as 15mm, but the article above shows 17mm.
Well Fred, the x-max given in the article was determined by Vance Dickason's analysis/measurement of the driver, testing it's physical movement while monitoring linearity on special testing equipment. If he says it has a linear stroke of 17mm, then you can count on it. BTW, Vance is a rather famous loudspeaker engineer that has designed speaker systems for many companies; he was also author of one of the best loudspeaker design books: The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. The Perfect is no average quality subwoofer. There is more to a speaker than it's physical rated x-max(which actually tells you nothing about motor linearity,etc.) which is what most people look at among other simple things.

-Chris
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Is there anything wrong with using infinity kappa perfect 12.1? I already have one.
* 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
* aluminum cone with high-roll butyl-rubber surround
* massive cast-aluminum basket
* suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
* power range: 75-350 watts RMS (1,400 watts peak power)
* frequency response: 18-200 Hz
* sensitivity: 96 dB
* top mount depth: 6-1/8"
* sealed box volume: 1.0 cu. ft.
* ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
* Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2, 3

Should I just buy the newer version? I plan to start building the cabinet tomorrow.
To be safe, I recommend the VQ, if you want to be guaranteed the superb performance using avaserfi's cabinet design.

-Chris
 

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