receiver for studio monitors

[eggyhustles]

Hello all..a pal of mine is getting into music production and is set on buying a pair of Mackie HR824 studio monitors..they are self powered but he also wants a small 8 or 10 inch sub to help in the bass area so we assume a reciever is needed? the reciever will run via rca to 3.5 plug to his home pc ...budget is 300-350 specs are as followed..


HR824 - Specifications
Enclosure Materials and Construction
3/4-inch (19mm) thick MDF construction with 1-inch (25.4mm) thick MDF front panel with radiused edges to minimize diffraction.
Proprietary exponential wave guide for controlled, wide dispersion from high-frequency driver.
Internal "H" brace adds to cabinet stiffness.
Open cell adiabatic "foam fill" acoustic damping material absorbs internal reflections, preventing delayed sound coloration.
Flush-mount connector system allows monitor to be placed against a wall without need for connector clearance.
Transducers
Low-frequency driver

8.75-inch (222mm) die-cast magnesium frame, mineral-filled polypropylene cone, oversized magnet structure, and over 16mm cone excursion.
High-frequency driver

1-inch (25.4mm) viscous edge-damped aluminum dome with ferrofluid-cooled voice coil.
Passive Radiator

6-inch x 12-inch (152mm x 305mm) elliptical flat cone composed of aluminum honeycomb/phenolic with variable thickness filleted edge neoprene surround, mass-loaded, acoustic insulated.
Crossover Section
Crossover Type

Modified Linkwitz-Riley, 24 dB/octave @ 1800Hz
Sensitivity

0 dBu nominal
Input Impedance

20k ohm, balanced bridging
Compressor

Independent high and low frequency overload detection
Equalization
Acoustic Space Equalization (at 40Hz)

A = -4dB / B = -2dB / C = flat
Roll Off EQ

-3 dB@37Hz, 2nd order transitional high-pass filter
-3 dB@47Hz, 4th order Chebyshev high-pass filter
-3 dB@80Hz, 4th order Butterworth high-pass filter
High Freq. EQ

± 2 dB @ 10kHz, shelving
Acoustic Section
Free Field Frequency Response

±1.5 dB, 39Hz to 20kHz
Lower cutoff frequency

-3 dB @ 37Hz
Upper cutoff frequency

-3 dB @ 22kHz
Sound Pressure Level at 1 meter, -7.5dBu into balanced input

100dB SPL @ 1m
Maximum peak SPL per pair

120dB SPL @ 1m
Maximum short term SPL on axis, half space 80Hz to 2.5kHz

111 dB SPL @ 1m
Residual noise (maximum gain, 600 ohms source, 20Hz-20kHz bandwidth)

< 8dB SPL @ 1m
Low-frequency amplifier:
Rated power output

150 watts, 4 ohm load
Burst power output:

350 watts
Distortion

THD


< 0.035%

SMPTE IMD


< 0.035%

DIM 100


< 0.035%
Slew Rate

> 35V/µs
Signal-to-Noise Ratio

> 102 dB, referenced to 150 watts into 4 ohms
High-frequency amplifier:
Rated power output

100 watts, 6 ohm load
Burst power output

210 watts
Distortion THD

< 0.035%
SMPTE IMD

< 0.035%
DIM 100

< 0.035%
Slew Rate

> 35V/µs
Signal-to-Noise Ratio

> 102 dB, referenced to 100 watts into 6 ohms
General
Power Consumption

135 watts with musical program, loud mix
18 watts quiescent (idle)

8 watts in Standby mode
AC Dropout Voltage

120V AC versions


80V AC

240V AC versions


160V AC
Weight

32.5 lb. (14.77 kg)

all feedback is appreciated..

 

[TLS Guy]

Hello all..a pal of mine is getting into music production and is set on buying a pair of Mackie HR824 studio monitors..they are self powered but he also wants a small 8 or 10 inch sub to help in the bass area so we assume a reciever is needed? the reciever will run via rca to 3.5 plug to his home pc ...budget is 300-350 specs are as followed..


HR824 - Specifications
Enclosure Materials and Construction
3/4-inch (19mm) thick MDF construction with 1-inch (25.4mm) thick MDF front panel with radiused edges to minimize diffraction.
Proprietary exponential wave guide for controlled, wide dispersion from high-frequency driver.
Internal "H" brace adds to cabinet stiffness.
Open cell adiabatic "foam fill" acoustic damping material absorbs internal reflections, preventing delayed sound coloration.
Flush-mount connector system allows monitor to be placed against a wall without need for connector clearance.
Transducers
Low-frequency driver

8.75-inch (222mm) die-cast magnesium frame, mineral-filled polypropylene cone, oversized magnet structure, and over 16mm cone excursion.
High-frequency driver

1-inch (25.4mm) viscous edge-damped aluminum dome with ferrofluid-cooled voice coil.
Passive Radiator

6-inch x 12-inch (152mm x 305mm) elliptical flat cone composed of aluminum honeycomb/phenolic with variable thickness filleted edge neoprene surround, mass-loaded, acoustic insulated.
Crossover Section
Crossover Type

Modified Linkwitz-Riley, 24 dB/octave @ 1800Hz
Sensitivity

0 dBu nominal
Input Impedance

20k ohm, balanced bridging
Compressor

Independent high and low frequency overload detection
Equalization
Acoustic Space Equalization (at 40Hz)

A = -4dB / B = -2dB / C = flat
Roll Off EQ

-3 dB@37Hz, 2nd order transitional high-pass filter
-3 dB@47Hz, 4th order Chebyshev high-pass filter
-3 dB@80Hz, 4th order Butterworth high-pass filter
High Freq. EQ

± 2 dB @ 10kHz, shelving
Acoustic Section
Free Field Frequency Response

±1.5 dB, 39Hz to 20kHz
Lower cutoff frequency

-3 dB @ 37Hz
Upper cutoff frequency

-3 dB @ 22kHz
Sound Pressure Level at 1 meter, -7.5dBu into balanced input

100dB SPL @ 1m
Maximum peak SPL per pair

120dB SPL @ 1m
Maximum short term SPL on axis, half space 80Hz to 2.5kHz

111 dB SPL @ 1m
Residual noise (maximum gain, 600 ohms source, 20Hz-20kHz bandwidth)

< 8dB SPL @ 1m
Low-frequency amplifier:
Rated power output

150 watts, 4 ohm load
Burst power output:

350 watts
Distortion

THD


< 0.035%

SMPTE IMD


< 0.035%

DIM 100


< 0.035%
Slew Rate

> 35V/µs
Signal-to-Noise Ratio

> 102 dB, referenced to 150 watts into 4 ohms
High-frequency amplifier:
Rated power output

100 watts, 6 ohm load
Burst power output

210 watts
Distortion THD

< 0.035%
SMPTE IMD

< 0.035%
DIM 100

< 0.035%
Slew Rate

> 35V/µs
Signal-to-Noise Ratio

> 102 dB, referenced to 100 watts into 6 ohms
General
Power Consumption

135 watts with musical program, loud mix
18 watts quiescent (idle)

8 watts in Standby mode
AC Dropout Voltage

120V AC versions


80V AC

240V AC versions


160V AC
Weight

32.5 lb. (14.77 kg)

all feedback is appreciated..

His best solution is an AV preamp, as the Mackie speakers are powered. He can use a receiver but the amps will be unused and idle. If he does use a receiver he will have to get one with pre outs.

 

[eggyhustles]

Thanks..can you recommend a AV preamp?

 

[TLS Guy]

Thanks..can you recommend a AV preamp?

Is this just for audio, or is he going to want video capability?

 

[jostenmeat]

Here are the current used classifieds on Audiogon for solid state preamps, limited to budget of $350.

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/srch_fs.pl?PRIC=1&PMIN=&PMAX=350&CTGSK=preatran&submit=Go

Outside of using a full blown multi channel receiver, there are indeed integrated amps that have sub output. I think of Arcam, NAD, Outlaw... yea, they're all outside of budget, and as TLS has pointed out, will have an amp section that is unused.

I would opt to get a sub with speaker level inputs/outputs to access its internal x-over/bass mgmt. That way you don't need a sub output on pre/integrated/receiver, and simply get a 2-ch pre.

 

[jostenmeat]

Here are the current used classifieds on Audiogon for solid state preamps, limited to budget of $350.

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/srch_fs.pl?PRIC=1&PMIN=&PMAX=350&CTGSK=preatran&submit=Go

Outside of using a full blown multi channel receiver, there are indeed integrated amps that have sub output. I think of Arcam, NAD, Outlaw... yea, they're all outside of budget, and as TLS has pointed out, will have an amp section that is unused.

I would opt to get a sub with speaker level inputs/outputs to access its internal x-over/bass mgmt. That way you don't need a sub output on pre/integrated/receiver, and simply get a 2-ch pre.

I just realized that I assumed those speakers have speaker level inputs. Perhaps they do not. Hmmmm.... then, yes, you'll need a receiver/integrated/preamp with sub output. oops.

edit: and of course I return to the computer as I realize preamps don't have speaker level output either. sheesh*

anyways... I always thought the Outlaw looked pretty cool. Pretty packed for the money, albeit double the OP's budget.
http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/rr2150.html

 

[eggyhustles]

Is this just for audio, or is he going to want video capability?

Just for audio..

Here are the current used classifieds on Audiogon for solid state preamps, limited to budget of $350.

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/srch_fs.pl?PRIC=1&PMIN=&PMAX=350&CTGSK=preatran&submit=Go

Outside of using a full blown multi channel receiver, there are indeed integrated amps that have sub output. I think of Arcam, NAD, Outlaw... yea, they're all outside of budget, and as TLS has pointed out, will have an amp section that is unused.

I would opt to get a sub with speaker level inputs/outputs to access its internal x-over/bass mgmt. That way you don't need a sub output on pre/integrated/receiver, and simply get a 2-ch pre.

is it possible to get both with a budget of 550-600?

 

[TLS Guy]

Just for audio..



is it possible to get both with a budget of 550-600?

This preamp or one like it should be fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hafler-A-series915-PreAmplifier_W0QQitemZ250267502869QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250267502869&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318#ebayphotohosting

Now take the output of the preamp to an electronic crossover like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Pyle-PYX-3X-Electronic-Crossover-Network_W0QQitemZ170238955958QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170238955958&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

Set the crossover to 80 Hz and connect the high pass outputs to the powered speakers.

Sum the low pass outputs and connect them to the LFE inout of a powered sub.

That should work well and you should come out on budget.

 

[WmAx]

This preamp or one like it should be fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hafler-A-series915-PreAmplifier_W0QQitemZ250267502869QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250267502869&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318#ebayphotohosting

Now take the output of the preamp to an electronic crossover like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Pyle-PYX-3X-Electronic-Crossover-Network_W0QQitemZ170238955958QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170238955958&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

Set the crossover to 80 Hz and connect the high pass outputs to the powered speakers.

Sum the low pass outputs and connect them to the LFE inout of a powered sub.

That should work well and you should come out on budget.

The Behringer CX2310 crossover is likely a far superior designed/built unit for comparable price. Just a heads up.

-Chris

 

[TLS Guy]

The Behringer CX2310 crossover is likely a far superior designed/built unit for comparable price. Just a heads up.

-Chris

I agree the Behringer will be a better unit, I was just giving you an example of how to hook it together. I was already on eBay to see what cost effective preamps were available.

Hopefully you have the idea of what sort of hookup you need.

 

[eggyhustles]

Ok im familiar with what i need..now can someone recommend something? im not too familiar with brands on home audio

edit..how is this combo

preamp
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=248-484

crossover
http://cgi.ebay.com/Behringer-CX2310-SUPER-X-PRO-Crossover_W0QQitemZ230264967339QQihZ013QQcategoryZ23792QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

sub
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-635

 

[eggyhustles]

Bumpppppp.

 

[WmAx]

The crossover is fine. You will feed the source signal to the CX2310 with XLRs then feed out the high pass from the CX to the Mackie monitors and then low pass from the cx to the subwoofer. You will need an XLR to RCA adapter or you can solder up a custom cable to conver the CX XLR balanced out to a regular unbalanced RCA to feed the sub. The sub is fine also - that is one of the most highly regarded super-budget subs that you linked. As for the pre-amp - I would recommend looking elsewhere. IME, Pyle has made very low quality, noisy/hissy equipment with dishonest specs. While I make my basis on Pyle equipment from years ago, perhaps it is now different. Unless you have 1st hand experience with their recent gear and can verify it is of good performance, I would avoid it.

A used Hafler or Adcom pre-amp from eBay is your best bet for high quality pre-amplification for cheap. You will have to use a RCA to XLR adapter once again, to feed the CX crossover.

-Chris

 

[eggyhustles]

The crossover is fine. You will feed the source signal to the CX2310 with XLRs then feed out the high pass from the CX to the Mackie monitors and then low pass from the cx to the subwoofer. You will need an XLR to RCA adapter or you can solder up a custom cable to conver the CX XLR balanced out to a regular unbalanced RCA to feed the sub. The sub is fine also - that is one of the most highly regarded super-budget subs that you linked. As for the pre-amp - I would recommend looking elsewhere. IME, Pyle has made very low quality, noisy/hissy equipment with dishonest specs. While I make my basis on Pyle equipment from years ago, perhaps it is now different. Unless you have 1st hand experience with their recent gear and can verify it is of good performance, I would avoid it.

A used Hafler or Adcom pre-amp from eBay is your best bet for high quality pre-amplification for cheap. You will have to use a RCA to XLR adapter once again, to feed the CX crossover.

-Chris

Thanks..couldn't really find much hafler and adcom products on ebay..how is the Sony ES TA E2000ESD ?

 

[Djizasse]

I guess a Mackie HRS120 is out of the question

I'll probably not going to help much, but seing your friend invest in a pair of Mackie HR824, a highly regarded semi-professional music production speakers, it seems he's taking this seriously (and/or has money to spend). I don't know how much do they cost in the USA, but in my side of the pond I see them in the 1500-2000USD range. Not exactly pocket change.

With 600 bucks I would not get a subwoofer. I would get an equaliser to put those monitors with a neutral response in your friend's studio and treat the studio acoustics with bass traps and "stuff" like that.
Then I would get used to the Mackies, learn how they sound and how the mixes translate to other systems. I would even use a pair of computer speakers to A/B my mixes. I think this is the right path to a good music production studio.

Djizasse
ps - The "I" is not me, it's just a better version of myself. The real me, instead of treating my home studio and getting an equalizer, is building a subwoofer to feel the explosions

 

[fmw]

You might be able to connect the source to the speakers directly as long as they have enough output to drive the amps in the speakers. However dealing with volume changes (and other things) will be fussy.

Since you have powered monitors I would seriously recommend using a mixer or a mic preamp as a preamp for them. That's what the pros do. You can buy a small 4 channel rack mixer for $150 or so. A two channel microphone preamp that has line inputs (most of them do) could serve you as well. You can get these for less than $100. The mixer will provide more inputs in case you want to connect something other than a single CD player or computer sound card.

If you want full home audio A/V, then you need to get an A/V receiver with preamp outputs. You would connect those outputs to the speakers.

 

[WmAx]

Thanks..couldn't really find much hafler and adcom products on ebay..how is the Sony ES TA E2000ESD ?

Sony's 'ES' gear is very high quality.

As for Adcom; there are usually lots of amplifiers and pre-amplifiers up for auction, as is the case now. Check it out: http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=adcom

-Chris

 

[eggyhustles]

Ok guys..i'm still a newb when it comes to this home audio stuff and im getting different opinions from everyone so bare with me..i do wanna note that the audio will be coming from a pc..fed through this soundcard..HT OMEGA CLARO Plus+ 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Sound Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003

if you think i can find a better or similar card for cheaper..plz let me know..

i've got it down to this preamp..


Adcom GTP-860 preamp/processor
http://cgi.ebay.com/Adcom-GTP-860-preamp-processor_W0QQitemZ270255016392QQihZ017QQcategoryZ12050QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

good? bad? terrible?

what else do i need? crossover? mixer? i'm lost

 

[WmAx]

Ok guys..i'm still a newb when it comes to this home audio stuff and im getting different opinions from everyone so bare with me..i do wanna note that the audio will be coming from a pc..fed through this soundcard..HT OMEGA CLARO Plus+ 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Sound Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003

if you think i can find a better or similar card for cheaper..plz let me know..

i've got it down to this preamp..


Adcom GTP-860 preamp/processor
http://cgi.ebay.com/Adcom-GTP-860-preamp-processor_W0QQitemZ270255016392QQihZ017QQcategoryZ12050QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

good? bad? terrible?

what else do i need? crossover? mixer? i'm lost

Well, TLS Guy and myself have already outlined the basic needs.

As for the preamp you linked, this seems like a mis-placed priority. It would be better to buy a better active crossover and get a cheaper pre-amp, than to the get the more expensive pre-amp. Check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Adcom-GTP-450-Tuner-Preamp_W0QQitemZ190236836653QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190236836653&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

This would be perfect(as long as you don't need a remote control). Now, take the savings and get a Behringer DCX2496, which is a sophisticated and precision tool that will allow for superior crossover ability and response corrections that would not be possible with the more simple active crossovers. The CX2310 was suggested earlier because of it's low cost and transparent performance; but it does not have near the versatility and power of the DCX2496. BTW, please buy your pro gear from a high reputable pro retailer like zzounds.com that will rapidly replace items if defective(usually send out a replacement before you even send the old one back, IME) and offer outstanding customer service.

-Chris

 

[eggyhustles]

Well, TLS Guy and myself have already outlined the basic needs.

As for the preamp you linked, this seems like a mis-placed priority. It would be better to buy a better active crossover and get a cheaper pre-amp, than to the get the more expensive pre-amp. Check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Adcom-GTP-450-Tuner-Preamp_W0QQitemZ190236836653QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190236836653&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

This would be perfect(as long as you don't need a remote control). Now, take the savings and get a Behringer DCX2496, which is a sophisticated and precision tool that will allow for superior crossover ability and response corrections that would not be possible with the more simple active crossovers. The CX2310 was suggested earlier because of it's low cost and transparent performance; but it does not have near the versatility and power of the DCX2496. BTW, please buy your pro gear from a high reputable pro retailer like zzounds.com that will rapidly replace items if defective(usually send out a replacement before you even send the old one back, IME) and offer outstanding customer service.

-Chris

Wonderful..so the behringer dcx, the adcom gtp, and the dayton sub are a go..any specific wiring i may need? from what i read it will go 3.5 plug(from soundcard) to xlrs input(on the dcx).. output highpass xlr from the dcx to the mackies and and xlr to rca lowpass to the sub? if im right where does the preamp come in?