Hey guys, I am replacing a fluorescent overhead kitchen light that quit working.
I assume the ballast went out, but I was kind of looking for an excuse to replace it anyway.
When I apply a multimeter, I get ~36VAC when both of the wall switches are off!
I do get 0V when the circuit breaker is off and 122.5V when the wall switch is on.
So the question is what would cause there to be 36VAC when the wall switches are off?
Is this likely to be the source of failure of the old light fixture (I did try replacing the bulbs, but no luck)?
The new light fixture I plan to install is an Artika Skylight ultra thin LED panel, FWIW. It allows for a dimmable controller, although that will come later if at all. However, I am concerned that 36V may be enough to run the light at a lower level (which would not be a big problem as it would probably make a good night light ... as long as it is safe)!
My house is ~16 years old.
Georgia - Atl. metro area has not invested in hiring more building inspectors as Atlanta has boomed over the past several decades, so don't assume things were done right during construction. If it worked initially, that is all a builder is worried about, the inspection is pretty much a "drive-by".
I have experienced this once before in an older house (50+ years with screw in fuses at the panel), but I did not worry about it after an electrician said it is not uncommon with older homes and if it was him, he would not mess with it Salesforce Cloud Partners Manchester
. I was replacing overhead light with Ceiling Fan/Light.
As far as my own competence, I am a dude with a Black & Decker Complete Guide to Home Wiring book, but do not see a "Troubleshooting" section. I did successfully install a 240V sub-panel when I got a 240V Powermatic lathe, so I'm good pretty at following directions!