Question about hooking a 2 subs to a box (Car Audio)

R

RecLodossWar

Audioholic Intern
i meant with both subs. Im not trying to anger you im just upset about this.
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
I can understand.
I am not angry.
I am trying to help you.
That amp is designed to run mids & tweets. Not near enough power for those subs.
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
You can get another amp like that one, and put one for each sub.
 
R

RecLodossWar

Audioholic Intern
ok, so bridging one amp at 4ohm load will sound better then 2 subs series at 8ohm load? IF I should only bridge one, should I screw on the other sub top the box so it is sealed tight with no air coming out? The box is designed for 2.
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
Bridging one 4ohm sub will get it 120watts.
Series two 4ohm subs will get the 30 watts each.

Can you smell what I'm cooking?
 
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R

RecLodossWar

Audioholic Intern
ok thanks for your help I seriously apreciate it. So now for the other question, should I screw on the other sub onto the sub (NOT connected) so no air comes out of the other hole? The box is designed for 2 subs. or will it damage it?
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
You can run one, and let the other sub be passive(installed in the hole) for the moment. Then, either get a new amp with MUCH more power, or add an identical amp for the other sub.

You really need to have 8ohm subs when you plan to run two.

You need 4ohm subs when you plan to run one.

Either way, you bridge a 4ohm load on an amp, and the amp sees a 2ohm load.

Your box should have a divider in btw the subs. Each chamber should be a sealed unit. If not, your box is a POS. :(
 
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mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....Zumbo, my hat is off to you, Sir....I have learned....I'm on the computer at my daughter's, haha....this one's got hold of me, haha again....so bridging two seperate sections of a stereo amp follows the laws of parallel, huh?....Rec, as per hole closing, the woofer not powered will act as a passive radiator....that's a good thing....the bad thing is you won't be able to hear two woofers in your box being powered soon....what Zumbo has said is the truth....you're light in the pants bad on power....but let's reflect back to that red line on the graph of watts to achieved decibels....it goes straight up right at the last....10 watts rms fed to an efficient 16 ohm Klipsch Cornerhorn has bugs packing after a quick townhall meeting....as taught by Zumbo, now wiring the two speakers in series would present an ohm load of 8?....no, 4, because you're using a strapped amp.....or, you could use the amp in stereo and hear two powered in your box....but strapping brings the punching low end....the grilled chicken is ready....no, you tin-eared heatherns don't get none....believe I've got the 7 channel figured out...parallel the mids to the rears instead to get the most bass but you'll lose a little sweetness from the mids and the ohm load presented to the two non-strapped amp sections would be 2....just try it for a quick test....the amp sections would not overheat for surely at least 5 minutes with it cranked.....no more tonight....leave me alone....go away, this is my chicken.....
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
......or, Rec, use the amp stereo and cross the wires to one woofer for a push/pull effect....beats passive radiator for sure....I just noticed from Zomby's last one your box is not seperated....you don't want two woofers firing against each other....back in an hour.....
 
M

markw

Audioholic Overlord
Bridging and paralleling two 4 ohm speakers = trouble.

First off, when bridging two channels of a stereo amp, it "sees" the impedance of the speaker load as one half of what it is rated at.

In an ideal situation, the bridged amp will see one 8 ohm speaker as four ohms.

It would see one 4 ohm speaker as two ohms.

Two 4 ohm speakers connected in parallel would producr an effective impedance of two ohms on a non-bridged amp, and this is pushing any amp, believe me.

Those same paralled 4 ohm speakers would be seen by a bridged amp as a one ohm load. If you DO try this at least have some marshmallows and long sticks ready so it won't be a total loss.

Final answer. Connect the two speakers in series for an 8 ohm load as shown in your little diagram and bridge your amp which would act like it is seeing a 4 ohm load and should be happy as a clam at high tide.. Actually, I this would be the way I would go. While the power will be a little low for seismic lows, you'll have something to live with and it won't cause any damage.

Sometimes, ya gotta live with wacha got, or, put another way, sometimes you can't get ther from here.

BTW.. .you're not using enclosures that were designed for a car, are you? ...big mistake. It takes a different design for a home sub than for a car sub, unless your listening room has thesame square footage as an automobile. Well, some larger closets might qualify.

...and I still want some of what the Muleskinner is having... :rolleyes:
 
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mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....Mark, the price just went up, haha....hey, I'm into this....well, Rec, I just went back to your original post that started this thread....you've got two woofers that surely are rated to take some decent watts....you've got what is probably a stereo amp that is somehow rated around a thousand watts....you may need to run at least a 12 guage wire directly from your positive battery post to power the amp....you've got what I call a Bumpbox that has no porting that belongs in the trunk for max effect....yeah, no porting, like a Klipsch Heresy....buddy, your woofers are now in the spotlight with no porting, trust me....let's keep it simple....don't strap the amp....Y the signal like Mark said and wire the two woofers stereo, left and right, with plus and minus wires NOT crossed just like normal, even though you're inputting a mono Y'd signal....or, if you have stereo right and left inputs to input, that will work nicely too....out for the night....
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....(Mark)....(this is mule)....(just got home)....(yes, you were totally correct)....(I would strap the varmint too)....(but that brings a different wiring from the terminal posts that is strange indeed to all)....(he'll love it)....(right up until that thermal cutout, haha).....
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Actually Zumbo, the amp "sees" a 2 ohm mono load. It cannot make 2 ohms 1 ohm. 2 ohms mono is the equivalent to 1 ohm stereo for a 2 channel amplifier. Just as 4 ohms mono is like 2 ohms stereo. Check power specs on most amps and you will find this to be correct. :)


zumbo said:
If you bridge two 4ohm subs, the amp will see a 1ohm load. This is why you buy 8ohm subs when you plan to run two.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
"2 ohms mono is the equivalent to 1 ohm stereo for a 2 channel amplifier. Just as 4 ohms mono is like 2 ohms stereo"


.....Annunaki, can you break this down a little further?....I'm trying to relate all this to one amp section whether it be one side of a stereo amp or a strapping of two sections to act as a mono amp.....
 
R

RecLodossWar

Audioholic Intern
I hooked it up to one sub and it freakin pounds! you've been all very helpful, especially zumbo. ONE more question. What's the CHEAPEST amp I can get that can handle both subs? Is there a specific one thats on sale that you can recommend? thanks. American/Canadian only please. :)
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
mulester7 said:
"2 ohms mono is the equivalent to 1 ohm stereo for a 2 channel amplifier. Just as 4 ohms mono is like 2 ohms stereo"


.....Annunaki, can you break this down a little further?....I'm trying to relate all this to one amp section whether it be one side of a stereo amp or a strapping of two sections to act as a mono amp.....

What would you like broken down? That only applies to two channel bridgeable amplifiers. One 2 ohm speaker with the amp bridged (mono) is like having one 1 ohm speaker on each channel...
 
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