Properties of Speakers

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
Dear all

I've been thinking (I do that a lot :rolleyes: ) about speakers, their cabinets, drivers and crossovers, and have a few questions I'd like to put 'out there'. Im not looking to build my own speakers; I'm just curious about the parameters which lead folk to make speaker cabinets and drivers of the form that we commonly see.

1. I can understand why drivers are circular (as opposed to square etc. ;)), but why are they conical? Why not flat?

2. Since we don't see flat circular drivers, presumably the driver must be conical. This being the case, does the angle of slope of cone make a difference? If so, how do speaker/driver manufacturers decide what it should be? Most drivers for example are relatively shallow cones.

3. What about the central part of the driver? Excepting KEF's proprietory Uni-Q system of placing the tweeter in the centre of a midrange driver, is there a need for the central piece? Is it essentially a 'dust-cap'? If not, again, how does the speaker/driver manufacturer decide how big to make it? I would imagine for example that the larger the central piece was, the stiffer it would make the conical portion (good), albeit 'eating-up' a greater area of it (bad).

4. Whether there is or isn't a need for the central piece, how does the speaker/driver manufacturer decide on what form it should take? Monitor Audio drivers usually have an acute rocket-head-shaped central section, but many other manufacturers just have a flat disc. Is Monitor Audio's design purely for aesthetics?

5. Then there's the speaker cabinet/enclosure. Obviously when a driver moves it creates an opposite back-wave. In ported speaker designs, I believe that this is deliberately utilised to give the speaker, a small bookshelf for example, extra bass extension. Ideally though, I believe that ported designs aren't what one would want since although ports are 'tuned', the flow of air is still uncontrolled, hence the reason better speakers use 'passive radiators' which move in tandem with the actual drivers to try and negate the air-flow in, necessarily, a sealed cabinet enclosure. Is this true?

6. With room acoustics, a cube is the worst shape of room followed by a square-in-plan shape. So why are so many speaker cabinets made square-in-plan? Wouldn't the ideal speaker cabinet's dimensions all be dissimilar? If so, why don't we see more of this? Would it really be so difficult/expensive?

7. What about speaker cabinet edges/corners? Again, with room acoustics, all frequencies tend to find their way into the corners (hence the reason for placing bass-traps there), so why do we make the vast majority of speaker cabinets with straight edges and right-angled corners? Why not curved sides? Purely due to the expense of manufacturing?

8. What about speaker crossovers? Am I correct in saying that a normal crossover in a speaker consists of a small circuit board to divert frequencies from x to y up to the tweeter, and y to z down to the woofer etc etc? If so, what differentiates a typical crossover from a "Hard wired audiophile grade crossover" found in high-end speakers? Does the latter make a huge difference?

Well, that'll do me for the moment! :)

Regards
 
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Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
I'll give someone these a whack.

1. There are flat drivers. But they are usually subwoofer drivers. I think they are conical for better sound dispersion.

2. I think the cones are at certain angle which works best to dispers the sound waves. If the agnle was sharper, the driver would be deeper.

3. The dust cap covers the voice coil, keeps dust of it, I guess. The size depends on the size of the voice coil.

4. I have only seen bullet phase plugs.

5. Next.

6. Probly expense.

7. Cost again...

8. Not touching that with a 40 foot poll. :rolleyes:

Sheep
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
Sheep said:
I think the cones are at certain angle which works best to dispers the sound waves. If the agnle was sharper, the driver would be deeper.
So this implies that all drivers' conical sections are at the same angle. True?

Sheep said:
The dust cap covers the voice coil, keeps dust of it, I guess. The size depends on the size of the voice coil.

I have only seen bullet phase plugs.
So the central portion does nothing at all? In that case, Monitor Audio's 'bullet'-shaped piece must just be for looks?

Sheep said:
Not touching that with a 40 foot poll. :rolleyes:
Hehehe! Chicken! :)

Regards
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
1. It's about strength. Since the voice coil is located in the center of the driver, all of the force that moves the cone in and out comes from the center of the driver. If the driver was totally flat, then then it would flex like a drum head when you pushed on it and you would get distorted sound with all kinds of extra harmonics and such. Ideally, a flat surface would be great (as it has the greatest radiating area), but cannot be feasible due to the strength of the materials used. So a cone shape must be used. A cone has more rigidity in the direction the voice coil moves it and thus is less susceptable to flexing and distorting the sound (remember, the goal of a transducer is to create pistonic motion). The steeper the angle of the cone, the greater the rigidty, but the surface area that will actually push area is decreased. Some driver designers, like JL Audio (and others) use a W-Cone type design, where the voice coil is attched to a steep "W" shaped device wigh rigidity which is then affixed to a mostly flat inverted dome that actually interacts with the air to produce sound.

2.See #1.

3. The driver design you're talking about is called a "coaxial" driver. The two drivers share the same central axis about which they disperse sound. In one sense, this is a great design because it creates a nearly perfect "point source" type of sound production, where all of the sounds come from one point in space. However, because of the comprimises that must be made to affix the tweeter in such a position, the best sound is not always achieved ("Best Sound" being low distortion, etc, as well as a completely subjective though by me...Miklorsmith I know you love your Zu speakers).

The size of the hole in the middle of most speakers is dictated by the size of the voice coil. Most smaller drivers have a 1" to 1.5" voice coil, and thus the size of the dust cap is sized appropriately. Subwoofers often have a larger voice coil (3"+) to increase the power handlings as well as the strength of the voice coil. The size is also larger so all of the force is not concentrated in a very small area in the center of a 12" cone, but rather a more moderately sized area. Many designers often use inverted dust caps to utilize the maximum radiating area on the driver.

4. I'm not sure how driver designers decide on the dust cap/phase plug design. For reference a phase plug is the "rocket shaped" thing you're talking about. A phase plug (a true phase plug that is, not something that is an immitation and only looks pretty) is actually decoupled from the driver cone. This allows for air to enter the voice coil and cool the coils and magnets and increase power handling/endurance. The phase plug will also help guide the sound waves emited from the driver surrounding it.

5. Yes, many expensive speakers use a passive radiator/sealed enclosure design because the performance is more controlled. Of course, like you said, there are some drawbacks to the design, being bass extension, sound output (in dB), and efficiency.

6. I would think so, yes. And I don't know why more designers don't opt for this. I think it's more about cost.

7. Definitely about expese. B&W uses a design like this in their Model Nautilus speakers (beautiful, I must say), but then again, they cost around $80k/pr.

8. The components used in the crossovers are of varying quality. When you pay for a nicer speaker, the crossovers are made with parts of higher tolerances, and are often matched pairs so your speakers sound identical. High quality crossovers also utilize parts with higher power handling, or expensive, difficult to execute designs. Take Vandersteen for instance, their crossovers are all phase-correct/1st order designs. The benefit of this design means that the sound from all the drivers reaches your ears at the same time, all in phase. The bad part is that the rolloff is only 6dB per octave, which means drivers must be carefully selected because they have to operate outside of the normal range of their class (tweeters playing mids, etc).
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
The phase plug is connected to the motor structure. It hepls disapate heat, and makes the cone lighter by not having a dust cap.

No, but the drivers may need a certain angle for strength, and sound. Even flat drivres still have a little indent on the back side.
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
jaxvon said:
It's about strength...If the driver was totally flat, then it would flex like a drum head when you pushed on it...
Ah yes, I should've thought of that.

jaxvon said:
B&W uses a design like this in their Model Nautilus speakers (beautiful, I must say)
I agree. Aren't they just stunning?

jaxvon said:
When you pay for a nicer speaker, the crossovers are made with parts of higher tolerances, and are often matched pairs so your speakers sound identical.
My speakers don't sound identical?

jaxvon said:
Take Vandersteen for instance, their crossovers are all phase-correct/1st order designs. The benefit of this design means that the sound from all the drivers reaches your ears at the same time, all in phase.
Is this the same as when I hear someone peak of 'time-aligned'? Wouldn't all drivers need to be time-aligned as a matter of course?

Also, it seems pretty daft to me that more manufacturers don't curve their cabinets. I mean, apart from looking better (opinion of course) and (surely) having a higher WAF, the additional cost to a, lets face it, mass produced speaker would be minimal I would have thought. Besides, even though it may be more expensive, folk would be prepared to spend more. The two negate each other.


Regards
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
Buckle-meister said:
My speakers don't sound identical?
Probably not if you measured them. I'm talking about super tight tolerances that are often more a matter of esoteric marketing.

Buckle-meister said:
Is this the same as when I hear someone peak of 'time-aligned'? Wouldn't all drivers need to be time-aligned as a matter of course?
Yes and yes. Dunlavy was another manufacturer that did this.

Buckle-meister said:
Also, it seems pretty daft to me that more manufacturers don't curve their cabinets. I mean, apart from looking better (opinion of course) and (surely) having a higher WAF, the additional cost to a, lets face it, mass produced speaker would be minimal I would have thought. Besides, even though it may be more expensive, folk would be prepared to spend more. The two negate each other.
Indeed. AV123 is the only manfacturer of "reasonably priced" speakers that I know of that offers curved cabinetry.

Some pictures!

Dunlavy:



Vandersteen:

 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
jaxvon said:
Yes and yes. Dunlavy was another manufacturer that did this.
You have me confused. You say that all drivers are time-aligned as a matter of course, yet you also say "Dunlavy also do this..." as if only few (high-end?) manufacturers do it. :confused:

jaxvon said:
AV123 is the only manfacturer of "reasonably priced" speakers that I know of that offers curved cabinetry.
Ah well, I guess it depends on one's definition of "reasonably priced"! :D

jaxvon said:
Some pictures!
I don't see anything out of the ordinary about the Dunlavys. :confused: I'd also tend to say that the Vandersteens were still angular rather than curved, albeit multi-faceted.

Regards
 
MacManNM

MacManNM

Banned
Good job Jax. This is a good thread. Well illustrated answers. Now, get to your homework!:p
 
nibhaz

nibhaz

Audioholic Chief
Actually, all of the speakers in B&W's 800 range of speakers have curved cabinets. Whether or not these are considered affordable is a personal matter. Some snippets of B&W's speaker design philosophy can be found here. If you order the free DVD you'll find a wealth speaker design philosophy in lay terms, but of course you'll have to shift through some marketing BS.
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
More questions

Here's a few more for y'all:

1. Is the role of a passive radiator to negate the back-wave from the actual drivers, or simply to try and control the air movement within a speaker's cabinet?

2. As a passive radiator moves in conjunction with the actual driver to work on the air flow within a speaker's cabinet, isn't the passive radiator's back-wave, i.e what is coming out of the speaker, going to cause sound of it's own? It's a vibrating object after all. In other words, you're looking into the cabinet and trying to regulate the air flow inside, but forgetting about the air you are shifting behind you outside the cabinet!

3. What's the consensus on my previous question 8?: Would a "Hard wired audiophile grade crossover" found in high-end speakers make a huge difference to the speakers sound quality, or is the quality of loudspeakers mostly in the makeup of the drivers themselves?

4. Is rolloff a physical property of a driver? I thought the speaker designer decided on how smoothly or sharply the transferral from one driver to another (through use of the crossover) would be. Is this incorrect?

5. Are all drivers in all speakers 'time-aligned' as a matter of course, or is this something found only on more expensive speakers? If the latter, just how much of an improvement would this make?

Regards
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
Just for reference, it's spelled "ya'll". Keep in mind that "ya'll" is singular. The plural of "ya'll" is "all ya'll" :D

1. The purpose of a passive radiator is to utilize the negative movement [negative meaning in the direction towards the back of the speaker] of the main driver in producing sound. A port can also be used to do this, but problems arise with things like port noise. A passive radiator design will be able to produce higher SPL than a sealed enclosure or infinite baffle design with the same driver and amplifier, but still not to the same extent a vented enclosure can.

2. Yes, but that's the purpose! A passive radiator (for this example, positioned in line with the active driver but on the opposite side of the speaker cabinet) will create somewhat of a dipole effect, where it moves out from the cabinet when the other driver movies in, and vice versa. It is essentially an extension of the active driver. In a design like the BIC DV-84 speaker, with two active drivers and two passive radiators all placed on the front of the cabinet, the idea is to increase the SPL and bass response without porting the speaker. Keep in mind that a passive radiator design does attenuate bass response and decrease sensitivity, but not to the same degree that a totally sealed enclosure would.

On a side note, many people often prefer the sound of sealed enclosures or those with passive radiators because they feel the sound is subjectively "tighter", "punchier", and "more defined". I have nothing concrete to back up these statements, but I thought I'd throw them out there as food for thought.

3. Loudspeaker quality [in a traditional boxed enclosure with conical drivers] is divided between the cabinet design, driver design, and crossover design. Any of the three elements can greatly influence the sound, for better or for worse depending on the design.

Cabinets are generally designed to be inert as possible [this is of course dedicated by budget]. An inert design will stop the influences of resonance within the cabinet and thusly allow for lower distortion and more linear movement of the driver elements. Some designers, however (such as Sonus Faber and Boesendorfer) design speaker cabinets with real wood like one would design a musical instrument. Real wood, unlike MDF, has specific resonant properties that, when excited, will add harmonics to the sound that will often color it in a pleasing way [this indicates the presence of even-order harmonics].

A good driver design will have linear motion, fast transient response, and low distortion. No matter how high the quality of the other parts, a bad driver will yield "sloppy" [think Bose trying to do midbass and bass], distorted sound. When pushed with some higher power, the driver might bottom out, or start to resonate.

A proper crossover design is also integral in creating a quality loudspeaker with cohesive, low distortion sound. The crossover determines what frequencies are sent to which driver and can also alter the phase of the incoming electrical signals. An improperly designed crossover will result in poor driver integration and/or over-emphasis of certain frequencies. For instance, trying to send a 2kHz signal to a tweeter that is only flat down to 8kHz will yield bad results because it is being asked to reproduce a signal 2 octaves below its optimum operating range. The crossover controls this.

Using high quality components in a crossover is also important. When a passive crossover design is implemented (the kind one sees in almost every loudspeaker), the components must have a high-power handling to allow for uncompressed playback. The components must have a fine tolerance so the impedance doesn't vary too much and the function of the crossover doesn't change with use. The capacitors, inductors, resistors, and other devices used can determine the difference between a good design and a great design.

This does not mean that they need to use Vishray resistors, Black Gate capacitors, silver wire, and WBT silver solder with WBT terminations on the input board. If this is what you're getting at, then the idea that special "audio-grade" components are better is often BS. Vishray resistors are very high quality with tolerances, but this is why they work well in high-end designs. An example of this is the difference in the S/N ratio of 9dB or better when used in the RE Designs LPNA 150 monoblock.

4. The rolloff in speaker designs is determined by the crossover (as you rightly thought). However, a driver will have a frequency response, notated as one of the T/S parameters. This response dictates where the rolloff starts when a crossover is being designed. Take for instance the response chart for the Dayton 6" Reference Woofer:



http://www.partexpress.com/pdf/295-362g.pdf

5. No, this is a design choice that is often found in higher-priced speakers like Vandersteens, Dunlavys, Wilsons, and others. The design is a two part effort. First is the positioning of the drivers in the cabinet to allow for proper dispersion and in-phase radiation, and second, the crossover design. I know for a fact that Dunlavy and Vandersteen use a first-order crossover design that preserves electrical phase as it routes signals. Many people feel that this produces a very "complete" and "musical" sound. The downside is that a first-order crossover can only roll off frequencies at 6dB/octave, which means that the drivers used in such a design must have a wide usable bandwidth in order to accomodate signals that they do not usually encounter.


Keep the good questions coming, Robbie!
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
jaxvon said:
Just for reference, it's spelled "ya'll". Keep in mind that "ya'll" is singular. The plural of "ya'll" is "all ya'll" :D
Truly? I was under the impression that it was an abbreviation for "you all", hence "y'all".

jaxvon said:
...Robbie!
:mad: :mad: :mad:

BM or Buckle-meister please.

Regards
 
malvado78

malvado78

Full Audioholic
Great thread!

This is one of the most informative threads I have ever read. I suggest it be Stickied somewhere. Maybe in the DIY. "Explainations of speakers designs"

Good job Jax. I would give you Chicklets all over the place but it won't let me because I've given yousome recently.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Buckle,

Most of what you are asking and more is answered in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook Vol 6 in depth.

When you pay for a nicer speaker, the crossovers are made with parts of higher tolerances, and are often matched pairs so your speakers sound identical.
Drivers have tolerances too. The tweeters in my speakers come with their printed response curves and are selected to be as close to a matched pair as possible. The mids have good enough quality that they don't need to be matched. Crossover quality (components) does give you more driver control, but I wouldn't say it is going to make a huge difference in a well designed x-over once you reach a certain level of x-over component; meaning they should be of quality, but the most expensive components won't necessarily make a poor design or poor driver combination a good sounding speaker.

Time alignment can be done with the crossover as well, though companies that do a stepped baffle are also opting for a less complicated crossover, which is a good thing in my book. The spacing of the drivers, centerline to centerline is CRITICAL as well to minimize interactions at the crossover point(s).

Also, it seems pretty daft to me that more manufacturers don't curve their cabinets. I mean, apart from looking better (opinion of course) and (surely) having a higher WAF, the additional cost to a, lets face it, mass produced speaker would be minimal I would have thought.
The best shape, generally speaking, was found to be cylindrical with the driver perpendicular to the cylinder - very difficult to build. Guess what was second best? A FLAT, rectangular surface.

The phase plug is to break up reflections within the cone area. Sound leaves the cone surface and strikes the opposite side causing distortion - the closer to the center, the more it occurs. There are also parabolic curved drivers vs straight cone, though I don't know the implication of that on sound quality off hand.

A passive radiator does add to the overall output of the speaker. It keeps a sealed system, while allowing the primary driver to "think" it is in a larger enclosure.

YES, crossover plays a VERY key role in how good a speaker sounds, but exactly how is rather complicated.

My 902s use a 6dB/octave x-over, and they are quite musical. :)
 
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mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....simply, a crossover chops, with rolloff of varying factors, the frequency signal sent to a specific speaker element, so the speaker element won't be required to attempt to reproduce extremes, and lose sound quality, or produce raspiness....with a three-way speaker enclosure, an internal three-way crossover chops the signal to the midrange element on both ends, high and low, with the top of the woofer being chopped, and the bottom of the tweeter being chopped.....



Crossover

The crossover splits up the frequency spectrum into pieces, which are then handed over to various speaker drivers. A crossover is necessary in a speaker because one driver cannot efficiently handle all sound reproduction tasks across the entire audible spectrum (the sounds distinguishable by the human ear – from around 20 Hz to 20 kHz).

A two-way crossover, for instance, may split the frequency spectrum into a frequency band from 20 Hz to 2 kHz and from 2kHz to 20 kHz. The woofer section of the speaker would then reproduce the section from 20 Hz to 2 kHz while the tweeter took over above 2 kHz. This scenario works essentially the same for all crossovers, however, there are two specific types of crossovers – active and passive.

Active crossovers are adjustable and require power (normally an AC power source from a wall outlet) to operate while passive crossovers are not adjustable (by the user, the factory can set the crossover but cannot change the setting without changing the crossover) and do not require power to operate.

http://www.audiovideo101.com/dictionary/dictionary.asp?dictionaryid=117&term=Crossover
 
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j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
They do the same thing, except one is powered and the other is not. The active x-over is variable for each crossover point as well, and may offer a number of parameters to tailor the x-over to the particular design and drivers.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
Buckle-meister said:
What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

Regards
.....Buckle, I don't think there's an advantage or disadvantage to either, but simply a matter of what is required....with an active crossover, like a Paradigm X-30, a Behringer 2496, or the crossover in a powered sub, AC is required, but then again, I'm not for sure the crossover in a sub requires AC in any way, and the AC to a sub is probably only to power the amp section, I don't know for sure as I've never had a powered sub....the crossover in a speaker enclosure is considered passive, as it requires no AC and accepts wattage in an inductance form, and yes, you can put both ends of the speaker wire to a speaker in your mouth and turn up the gain and continue to smile, feeling nothing....other comments, please....Gene?.....
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
j_garcia said:
The active x-over is variable for each crossover point as well, and may offer a number of parameters to tailor the x-over to the particular design and drivers.
.....excellent.....
 
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