Pro Amplifier recommendations

[Soundman]

Originally Posted by Soundman
That JTR is some power hog!

Correction: the sensitivity of my mains are actually 91.5db, center is 89db, and surrounds are 87db, so average sensitivity is 89.2, not that it matters much.

Wouldn't a less sensitive speaker be the power hog because it requires more power to achieve the same output? A ten db difference in sensitivity takes ten times the power for the same output.

You are corerect about your power output specs. When I refered to the JTR'S being power hogs, it's because the recommended power for them is 1000 watts! I don't own those speakers. My speakers don't require anywhere near that kind of power. I was throwing around the idea of getting a Yamaha 700wpc x2 amp, or maybe 2 of them. So even though my main's are a bit more sensitive then say my surrounds, that kind of power is more then sufficient to drive any of the speakers in my setup. That's all I meant.

 

[Soundman]

My speakers are of my own design. I no longer use commercial speakers.

My listening room is roughly 15' wide x 14x deep by 7-7.5' high. But my listening room is also decked out with a very large amount of acoustical control treatments to obtain ideal acoustics for my speaker set up. So, the room may tend to need more power to reach a subjective SPL as compared to a normal untreated room, at least this is my suspicion.

I use a P2500S for the tweeters. A P3500S for the mid-ranges. A P3500S for the woofers. When I get my new main speakers completed - I will 2 x Behringer EP2500 to power the woofers. The 2nd P3500S will then be used on the midbass drivers instead of woofers.

-Chris

Thanks Chris,
I didn't realize you had designed your own speakers. I was just curious. I'll just have to see how it sounds with what I have. I do plan to treat the room eventually, so that is one reason why having the extra power will be a benefit, so I won't have to worry about it later on. I may not need as much treatment though b/c my room is more rectangular in shape, but I suppose it's impossible to know. It's just going to take a little trial and error on my part. This is a work in progress so it may take me a while to get there. I haven't moved into the new house yet, but I'm doing all the research now and getting what I need so that once we get moved in, I'll have everything ready and can set up as much as I can right then.

 

[vgmbpty]

...If the user will pay 300-350 though, I recommend the Yamaha P2500S instead of the Crown, for this approx. 200 watt range.

-Chris

I want to power my front 3 speakers (8 Ohms, 92Db) and was almost sold on 2 Yamaha P3500s, until this caught my eye: http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=DCM2004L

What I like:
- Its just one amp (4 channels), instead of the two Yamahas
- Its class D output topology: Only 10 pounds, should run fresh, damping factor (http://www.carvinguitars.com/poweramps/topology.php )
- Power: 300W X 4/8 Ohms
- $529 for the 4 channels, compared to Yamaha which is about $529 x 2 amps to get the 4 channels

What I don't like:
- Speakon/RCA phono output terminals (Was hoping for banana outputs)

What worries me about buying it:
- Channel cross talk?
- Sound quality

Does anybody have opinions or experiences with this new DMC L series? Your comments will be much appreciated.

 

[GranteedEV]

You are corerect about your power output specs. When I refered to the JTR'S being power hogs, it's because the recommended power for them is 1000 watts! I don't own those speakers. My speakers don't require anywhere near that kind of power. I was throwing around the idea of getting a Yamaha 700wpc x2 amp, or maybe 2 of them. So even though my main's are a bit more sensitive then say my surrounds, that kind of power is more then sufficient to drive any of the speakers in my setup. That's all I meant.

JTRs can be driven to reference levels easily

The difference is, they can also be driven to like 115+db cleanly... which is deafening.

Most speakers would have their voice coils melt and their sound would totally distort in those high wattage high SPL scenarios.

They don`t "require" 1000 watts, they can take 1000 watts. That's not a power hog... that's a speaker that can go very, VERY loud if you want it to.

 

[KEW]

While this isn't the same amp, it is pretty close. See post #15 if the link doesn't take you to that one.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=695702&highlight=carvin#post695702

 

[WaynePflughaupt]

Does anybody have opinions or experiences with this new DMC L series? Your comments will be much appreciated.

I’ve been using a 1540L for several months now, for my subwoofers. No complaints. Probably way more ampifier than I needed; don’t think I’ve ever seen the 40% LED’s light (the next ones above the “Signal” LEDs). There is some fan noise, so that may be a concern if your seating is close to the equipment rack. We can barely hear it @10 ft. away, and only then when the system is muted.

I’m also using a 200L in my bass guitar rack. That one had one channel DOA. Called Carvin and they immediately mailed me a replacement.

What I don't like:
- Speakon/RCA phono output terminals (Was hoping for banana outputs)

Well, it is a pro amp after all, and Speakons are what pro users want. With a crowded 4-channel rear panel, the bananas were expendable.

BTW, “RCA phono output terminals?” Umm, no. The jacks will take 1/4” phone plugs in addition to Speakons. The Speakons may be a challenge with large-gauge flat zip-cord speaker wire, but you can get heavy duty 1/4" plugs with oversized barrels that will take 12 ga. zip.

What worries me about buying it:
- Channel cross talk?
- Sound quality

Carvin has a generous return policy. You’re only out the return shipping to try it out.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[vgmbpty]

BTW, “RCA phono output terminals?” Umm, no. The jacks will take 1/4” phone plugs in addition to Speakons. The Speakons may be a challenge with large-gauge flat zip-cord speaker wire, but you can get heavy duty 1/4" plugs with oversized barrels that will take 12 ga. zip.

You are right, I meant Speakon/1/4

You also nailed it on the wire, as I have a 200 feet spool of flat wire (Not sure if its #10 or #12, to be polite, some oriental specs must be taken with a grain of salt). I hate soldering so I would like to try the Speakon solder-less connectors if its not a flat out mistake. I already figured out the Neutriks are better quality and I need a 2 pole version, but still not sure if I would need a NL2FX or NL2FC or else?

-------
PD: I have read several of your posts and I usually end up learning something new. BTW, nice contest and price now running on the Shack...too bad I'm new to HT forums...

 

[vgmbpty]

...I have a 200 feet spool of flat wire (Not sure if its #10 or #12....

As a side note, I took the time to measure the wire and do some math. It took a little inventiveness as I had no gauge available. It was advertised as a #10 but its actually a #12, which is what I wanted, LOL.

Modest doubt is called the beacon of the wise.

 

[WaynePflughaupt]

Thanks for the kind words, vgm.

I have my doubts that the NL2FC will work with flat cable (can’t comment on the NL2FX; can’t find much of anything on it). The problem is that the Speakons have a chuck-type cable clamp that’s an integral part of the connector, and it’s designed for a round cable (which is the type most used in pro audio).

What you might do is rig up a crude 1/4” or Speakon to banana adapter. Get a heavy-duty pro speaker cable like this and cut the wire off except for a 6-8” tail. You could strip back the insulation from the tail and crimp some ring lugs on the two wire leads. The ring lugs could be securely bolted to a binding post. From there, you could connect your flat speaker wire to the binding posts using bare wire or standard banana plugs.

Alternately, you could start with a pro speaker cable with Speakons on both ends, but they seem to be way more expensive than heavy duty cables with 1/4" plugs.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[vgmbpty]

Alternately, you could start with a pro speaker cable with Speakons on both ends, but they seem to be way more expensive...

Hmmm, these might be the ticket for me

Reviews are not bad for the 30 ft version here.

What is not to like? 50 ft, 12AWG (Let's see...), JR has them for $15.30 (will get two 25' from each) and free shipping.... I just have to cut them in half, and install the banana plugs I have at the other end

 

[KEW]

Please see the comments on frequency response in the review of a high end Class D amp linked below:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/amplifiers/axiom-audio-a1400-8/a1400-8-measurements

Almost all Pro Amps seem to be Class D. Obviously they are fine for subs and mid-range, but is this a reason to stay away from them for full range duties?

Certain models of the Behringer and Yamaha pro amps have been consistently recommended as alternatives to conventional hi-fi amps. Should we rethink this?

 

[WaynePflughaupt]

Hmmm, these might be the ticket for me

What is not to like? 50 ft, 12AWG (Let's see...), JR has them for $15.30 (will get two 25' from each) and free shipping.... I just have to cut them in half, and install the banana plugs I have at the other end

LOL – The reason I came up with that adapter rig was because I assume most people wouldn’t want the typical fat, ugly black professional-grade speaker cables draped across the living room floor.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[vgmbpty]

Lets just say that in this room there is no room for the Mrs input...

 

[poutanen]

Certain models of the Behringer and Yamaha pro amps have been consistently recommended as alternatives to conventional hi-fi amps. Should we rethink this?

Not sure about the other models, but I'm pretty sure the Behringer A500 is a class AB...

I believe the Yamaha P series are also Class AB amps...

 

[KEW]

Not sure about the other models, but I'm pretty sure the Behringer A500 is a class AB...

I believe the Yamaha P series are also Class AB amps...

The Yamaha has the rails and the efficiency (and weight) of a Class D amp. They call it "EEEngine technology".

However, it doesn't look like a concern (assuming that 1.5dB isn't at 12kHz!).

Frequency Response RL=8Ω, Po=1W, 20Hz - 50kHz is +0dB, -1.5dB

http://www.yamahaproaudio.com/downloads/data_sheets/power_amps/P_Series_datasheet.pdf

 

[JerryLove]

I believe the Yamaha P series are also Class AB amps...

Class H amp.