ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Ok, I am going to do this build for certain.

I am going to need a lot of help along the way, not with design or equipment, all of that is under control. I need help gathering the "building tools".

As many of you know, I am not that handy but I want to be. My plan is to gather the tools I need and do a couple of test runs, by building subs out of cheaper wood, until I work my way up to the 13 ply Birch.

So throw a list of tools at me so I can start gathering them up. I have a jigsaw and a hammer right now. Father in law has everything in the world but I don't know what I need to grab when I go out there.
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
I'm no wood worker but I would start with a table saw, clamps, electric drill with screw bit attachment, a square and an electric sander.

And a broom. You will definitely need a broom and a shop vac.
 
adwilk

adwilk

Audioholic Ninja
Dave's list looks pretty good. Probably also need a router with some kind of circle jig. Glue perhaps as well. Dont know if that counts as a tool. First Aid kit.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
The work top of the garage cabinets was the first thing I have really cut. It turned out pretty darn nice and straight. I just used a skill saw and clamped a 2x4 to it as a saw guide.

I think my stain job turned out pretty good too.


 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
First aide kit for sure.

What kind of circle jig?

Dave's list looks pretty good. Probably also need a router with some kind of circle jig. Glue perhaps as well. Dont know if that counts as a tool. First Aid kit.
 
adwilk

adwilk

Audioholic Ninja
The work top of the garage cabinets was the first thing I have really cut. It turned out pretty darn nice and straight. I just used a skill saw and clamped a 2x4 to it as a saw guide.

I think my stain job turned out pretty good too.


That looks pretty darn good to me... Lots of sanding? Urethane?
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Oh and BTW, none of this has wife approval. I am just going to "strap 'em on" and do it!
 
adwilk

adwilk

Audioholic Ninja
Honestly, there's nothing wrong with wanting to do a couple "mock ups" first, but if you take your time, I think you get right down to business. If you can measure twice and cut in a straight line (you proved that with the counter) I'd just get after it. You've obviously got the skills necessary to finish the thing. Are you gonna miter the corners or overlap them? That is of course the technical term.. lol.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
See now, that's the kind of stuff I don't know. What is the difference and what's best?
Are you gonna miter the corners or overlap them? That is of course the technical term.. lol.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
You don't want to miter anything here. For just one build you can get away with a circular saw and a guide. Andrew linked a 'how to make a guide' page for Alexwaklin or lsiberian or somebody. It works great. You could skip the table saw. Using a 2x4 as a guide will not be good enough.

I would find somebody to that works in a cabinet shop and hire them to come around on Saturdays and instruct me. I've been around this stuff all my life and I really am a firm believer in having a teacher.

I gotta go see about a mic stand. More later you maniac. :)
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Ok, I am going to do this build for certain.

I am going to need a lot of help along the way, not with design or equipment, all of that is under control. I need help gathering the "building tools".

As many of you know, I am not that handy but I want to be. My plan is to gather the tools I need and do a couple of test runs, by building subs out of cheaper wood, until I work my way up to the 13 ply Birch.

So throw a list of tools at me so I can start gathering them up. I have a jigsaw and a hammer right now. Father in law has everything in the world but I don't know what I need to grab when I go out there.
You can borrow my router with a jasper jig attachment for the hole.

Just let me know. I have no issue letting you use my tools.

What you need in order of greatest importance

Glue
Clamps
Router
Drill

Saw
Guide

Shop Vac and DC attachments for all your tools

I also suggest an orbital sander. If you need a tool fast texas tool traders has very good deals.

If you can wait. CPO-Bosch sells recons for a good deal.

For bits get the best you can. Having a bit break is dangerous.

I suggest a spiral downcut bit. This will help hold the piece in place.

I use Dow Blue Stryrofoam for a cutting surface.

Make sure you get a high tooth carbide tipped blade. I do suggest you get a nice saw. I wish I had gotten a bigger blade saw because of all the nice features on the step up. Let me know if you need help. I learned a lot from my work.

FYI you can get lowe's to cut the stuff for you with a pull down saw. However they aren't hugely accurate.

But with a sub as long as the boards match in size a variance isn't important.

When I apply titebond. I put it on both parts of the joint. allow it to dry for a minute or 2 so it doesn't drip. Then I use cheap gloves and a damp paper towel to place clamp and clean excess glue off the sides.

I'm tossing a lot out here. But If you have any questions or want to borrow my jig just let me know.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
See now, that's the kind of stuff I don't know. What is the difference and what's best?
Wmax says to just use a butt joint. But if you want to finish the cabinets it may be better to miter the exterior.

To do this you make your saw cut at 45 degrees. Honestly I'm not comfortable doing this on cabinet grade ply. I think the potential for blade burnout and kickback is too high. Safety first IMO.

I'm a busy person, but would be glad to help where I can. I do agree with Alex that getting a pro to show you is a good idea. I'm too poor for that option so I sacrifice my fingers instead.:)

Safety first. Safety Always. Remember when sawing ply to move fast.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
You don't want to miter anything here. For just one build you can get away with a circular saw and a guide. Andrew linked a 'how to make a guide' page for Alexwaklin or lsiberian or somebody. It works great. You could skip the table saw. Using a 2x4 as a guide will not be good enough.

I would find somebody to that works in a cabinet shop and hire them to come around on Saturdays and instruct me. I've been around this stuff all my life and I really am a firm believer in having a teacher.

I gotta go see about a mic stand. More later you maniac. :)
Was for me.:D

It's a great thing to do.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
FYI I just modeled your sub in a ported box. And it can get to 90db even at sub 10hz. The extension capabilities of this driver are the best I've seen.

I honestly can't believe your going to do this. This endeavor in my mind is beyond normal audiophile aspiration and is like a dream subwoofer design. This is gonna be crazy.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
FYI I just modeled your sub in a ported box. And it can get to 90db even at sub 10hz. The extension capabilities of this driver are the best I've seen.

I honestly can't believe your going to do this. This endeavor in my mind is beyond normal audiophile aspiration and is like a dream subwoofer design. This is gonna be crazy.
In addition to the modeled behavior, this is an extremely linear motor/suspension system with massive power handling capabilities. There is a reason this driver's regular price is not far from $1k each. Note that P-Dawg said this thing, in a sealed cabinet, pressurized his 8000 cubic foot room to 116dB! That's with an underpowered amp. The driver can take more then 2x the power he is feeding it at the moment.

I own two of these 15" AXIS drivers and will be using them in my new 4 way mains when they finally get built. :)

-Chris
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
One of my friends use to be a cabinet maker (I kind of forgot he did that) He is in the corporate world now but I bet he wouldn't mind helping me. I picked up his bar tap the other night and it was 168 bucks so he kind of owes me.

lsiberian, I may have to take you up on the router loan.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I won't be under powered with the ported design will I?

That's with an underpowered amp. The driver can take more then 2x the power he is feeding it at the moment.

-Chris
 

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