please help me determine the right box and port length

[CajunLB]

I have a 7 cubic foot box that I can enlarge to any size up to 12 and 1/2 cubic foot. The box has a 6-in round port already installed. I would like some of you experts to find the right size box and please let me know how long that 6-inch round Port needs to be. I have tried asking if you people that know how to use the bass box builder but they have not gotten back to me yet and I know a lot of you like you experiment with different size boxes and ports for different drivers. I would love to know what the proper size box and 6 inch round ports would be. I am looking between the 14 Hertz and 18 Hertz tuning. I have a 16 Hertz high pass filter already on my amp so I figured 14 to 16 Hertz would work good for the high pass filter that I have. I have a 2400 cubic foot room and I listen between negative 10 and negative 15 on my volume dial. All movies no music. Thank you for your time and let me know if you need any more details. Thanks

 

[CajunLB]

I have a 7 cubic foot box that I can enlarge to any size up to 12 and 1/2 cubic foot. The box has a 6-in round port already installed. I would like some of you experts to find the right size box and please let me know how long that 6-inch round Port needs to be. I have tried asking if you people that know how to use the bass box builder but they have not gotten back to me yet and I know a lot of you like you experiment with different size boxes and ports for different drivers. I would love to know what the proper size box and 6 inch round ports would be. I am looking between the 14 Hertz and 18 Hertz tuning. I have a 16 Hertz high pass filter already on my amp so I figured 14 to 16 Hertz would work good for the high pass filter that I have. I have a 2400 cubic foot room and I listen between negative 10 and negative 15 on my volume dial. All movies no music. Thank you for your time and let me know if you need any more details. Thanks

Please include charts so that I can see what the different configurations look like.

 

[Verdinut]

Please include charts so that I can see what the different configurations look like.

You don't seem to know much about speakers and speaker enclosure building principles. First of all, the tuning of a box should not be based on any type of amplifier, but rather on the subwoofer that you put into it. The size and tuning frequency of the enclosure have to depend on the Thiele/Small parameters of the driver. By choosing a specific tuning frequency which is not compatible with the specs of the sub you install, you will never get satisfactory results.

We have no details on the driver which you have. Maybe, you could get additional info from the store where you bought it, or from the manufacturer. Finally, I would suggest that you read a few books on loudspeakers and cabinet construction to help you understand the operation of speakers and their interactions with various enclosures. One such book is "Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System" by David B. Weems.

 

[TLS Guy]

This is not the way it works. You do not tune a box. You can not pull a tuning frequency out of the air. You take a driver and then find the optimum box and tuning frequency for the driver. So your request is impossible to answer. In short your question is garbage.

 

[Gmoney]

@CajunLB ,
I forgot to text AGTG about this my bad bro.
But with that said, TLSGUY and Verdinut gave solid advice.

 

[CajunLB]

The driver is a Dayton Ultimax that I am trying to find the right box and port length for.@tlsguy maybe you should give me a list of information needed before calling someone's post garbage. If you don't have anything to constructive to say maybe you should keep your old grumpy mouth shut.

 

[trochetier]

There are several free soft wares that can help. You will need to input the electrical and mechanical specs for the driver, it is likely on the parts express web site.

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Hope this helps. DIY is always fun you can simulate the sub response/s before actually building it. Good luck

 

[highfigh]

The driver is a Dayton Ultimax that I am trying to find the right box and port length for.@tlsguy maybe you should give me a list of information needed before calling someone's post garbage. If you don't have anything to constructive to say maybe you should keep your old grumpy mouth shut.

Look on the web page for the driver on the Parts Express site- they have info for box size on the page and they use the same program for modeling TLS Guy uses/used. Their tech support people can help but 14-16Hz isn't a reasonable expectation for your room. A huge box isn't the way to get good bass- as TLS posted, the driver determines the box. You need to post the woofer size, too.

 

[CajunLB]

I have a 15' Dayton Ultimax subwoofer driver.
I was given a seven cubic foot box that I can make larger to accommodate the size box that I would need for the driver to be turned to 16hz . The box already has a 6-in round port. I just need to know the optimal box size and length of port. @TLS Guy no comment is needed from you if you can't or don't want to help.

 

[CajunLB]

Parts express shows and 11.1 cubic foot box. I have no problem making the box that big, but how long would the 6 inch port need to be for 16hz f3 ?

 

[Verdinut]

I have a 15' Dayton Ultimax subwoofer driver.
I was given a seven cubic foot box that I can make larger to accommodate the size box that I would need for the driver to be turned to 16hz . The box already has a 6-in round port. I just need to know the optimal box size and length of port. @TLS Guy no comment is needed from you if you can't or don't want to help.

Why don't you verify on Parts-Express website? You should find answers to some of your questions. P-E usually post enclosure size and port dimensions. If they haven't specified for a 6" pipe, then you just contact them and they should be pleased to help you with the proper info.

 

[Gmoney]

The driver is a Dayton Ultimax that I am trying to find the right box and port length for.@tlsguy maybe you should give me a list of information needed before calling someone's post garbage. If you don't have anything to constructive to say maybe you should keep your old grumpy mouth shut.

lolo... @CajunLB..

 

[TLS Guy]

I have a 15' Dayton Ultimax subwoofer driver.
I was given a seven cubic foot box that I can make larger to accommodate the size box that I would need for the driver to be turned to 16hz . The box already has a 6-in round port. I just need to know the optimal box size and length of port. @TLS Guy no comment is needed from you if you can't or don't want to help.

So now you are getting "all Mouth and Trousers." A 6" port will not work. It does not have enough area. If you use a 6" port it will chuff like "Puffing Billy". I have done a the calculation and you can get by with 6" tube, 16.29 long. The port is dampened a bit, but the velocity is just acceptable.

 

[Verdinut]

So now you are getting "all Mouth and Trousers." A 6" port will not work. It does not have enough area. If you use a 6" port it will chuff like "Puffing Billy".

It might chuff but it might not. As you know, it all depends on how loud he would be driving it. I have been using 15" woofers and subs using two 4" ducts on each one and never heard chuffing noises.
Altec Lansing have released many cabinets using two 4" pipes on 15" woofers, and 604 Studio monitors also with small ports. Nobody ever complained about chuffing noise with them. Of course, for a subwoofer having to handle infrasonic frequencies which require increased cone displacement, there is a possibility of chuffing but it depends.

Also, what would be the noise produced by chuffing compared to the loud sound which a sub is producing. I suspect that in a lot of instances, it might not easily be noticeable.

 

[trochetier]

I did a quick calculation for a sealed box design using AJ sealed software I had in my computer. The sealed box size for a 0.7qts (maximally flat response) is 6.5cu.ft, about 12dB down at 15Hz. The box you have I think is just right for a sealed design, if you block off the port hole. Sealed design will not suffer the chuffing that someone mentioned. Perhaps a DSP sub amp like link would help flatten the lower frequencies to where you like it.

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