OK, I'm an idiot, or so I am told!! First post here.

[jostenmeat]

Yikes!! I have to admit -- you used quite a bit of abreviations that just flew right over my head. I had to google them to really appreciate your reply.

Thanks for googling before asking. However, if you can't find the correct translation, please feel free to ask.

Room size is 22ft front to back. 35 ft in width. 14 feet from front of TV (seating area). This is the basement so I have a set of stairs (opening) leading to the first floor to the right of the TV. 1 large couch, 1 chair, TV is now on an entertainment center. Not sure what you meant when you said I could mount the TV and put up a screen. Also have workout equipment, and a large wood stove in this room. But here's where it gets tricky:

I agree with mazer on room size. Id start with something like an SVS Ultra 13. I use a JL sub that is a lot smaller in volume if space if a big issue. They cost more and I bet they give it up a bit in the extension and/or output. However, they make a serious sub. The smaller size may give you easier placement options in the future. Then again, selling an SVS Ultra is probably not very hard to do at all.

Just FYI, setting up the room so that its length-wise rather than width-wise is desirable for audio. Like I said though, Im definitely more forgiving of HT audio setup than a music setup. Im sure it can sound good enough as is to make your jaw drop.

Not sure what you meant when you said I could mount the TV and put up a screen.

Here are some pics of rmk's setup (and those are JL F113s up front as the subs):

A couple of more pics I posted recently (not mine btw):

FWIW, a basement is a perfect place for a PJ. At 14' my personal preference would be no smaller than 133". FWIW. Use this as a starting guideline:

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

 

[mike c]

Never searched on what THD means but is it better that the number be high like 0.09 or is lower better, such as 0.05?

THD is Total Harmonic Distortion. keyword being distortion, so you want as little of that as possible.

so a lower number is better.

edit: mazer beat me to it.

 

[mazersteven]

edit: mazer beat me to it.

That is why your still "Looking for a Job at AH". And I "Should be Listened to". LOL

 

[Adam]

That is why your still "Looking for a Job at AH". And I "Should be Listened to". LOL

Hee, hee!

Oh, wait. He already has a job at AH.

 

[rsd22]

How do you all reply to only a portion of an orginal post, so you only see a sentence rather than a book?

 

[Adam]

How do you all reply to only a portion of an orginal post, so you only see a sentence rather than a book?

The notation that causes text to be quoted is in the brackets: []. You can delete portions of the text within the quoted sections if you want. You can also put in multiple quotes.

That might be too vague. If it is, just let us know.

 

[randy98ss]

BRAVO...on going back in to that Tweeter store and putting him in his place. I live in Bel Air and would like the chance to go in the store and "taunt him a second time".

If buying locally from a store is a must, I know a sales guy from a Tweeter in Columbia MD, that has treated me very well, and on a couple of occasions has told me not to buy something, that I do not need it. Kinda rare from a salesguy that works on total commision.

I dont have as much experience in all the technical stuff as the rest of these guys, but 5k for a receiver seems absolutely rediculous.

 

[mazersteven]

but 5k for a receiver seems absolutely rediculous.

My receiver was $4K.

 

[poutanen]

It seems like my advice here may be against the grain, but here's my $.02, do what you will with it....

I would spend a greater portion of the money on the receiver to start (instead of a $500 receiver and $2000 speakers (5), I'd buy a $1500 receiver and a pair of $1000 front speakers). Then you can build on that in the future...

Too many times have I bought something that suited my needs at the time, without thinking about the long term goal. The receiver should be the cornerstone of your system, and getting one with the connectivity, features, and quality that your system may need 3 years from now is how I wish I had bought my first system...

For what it's worth, I place a lot of value on the receiver having at least 6-ch pre-outs. The RX-V663 does come with the pre-outs. While many other $500 range receivers do not.

If I were spending $6k on a system right now, I'd buy either an RX-V1800 or 3800, and spend the rest on speakers. And I would buy speakers with enough headroom that you can use external amps at some point in the future.

My system has grown to the point where I'm using 3 amps (1 more to come soon) to power the system on top of the receiver, and that may not be for everybody, but having the OPTION to go that route is pretty valuable if you ask me.

Hope this helps,

Aaron

p.s. I hear what you're saying about shops, I suggest doing all your research online, and calling around to places once you've made an educated guess as to what it is you want.

 

[rsd22]

Hi Aaron, Silly question, but I'm full of questions of this nature. Why would I need to add an amplifier to what would be a new receiver?

I went back and forth, and back again on the reciver thing. I liked the 663, liked the 1018 (for extra hdmi), and then liked the Elite 94 (especially since this now sells for $999 at BB) for the future. I thought that the 94 was the best receiver that would afford me future "growth" but what the hell do I know. I'm pretty much startaing from scratch here.

I'll be honest -- I don't know alot about the 1800 or 3800, but will give each a look.

What type of consideration should I give to upgrading my power conditioner? I bought a Panamax for $99 when I got my TV. I'm now learning that what I have is an entry level and others offer greater support for my components.

Doug

 

[gus6464]

A yamaha 663 with an Emotiva XPA-5 would be my choice for electronics because then you would have no problems powering any speaker. Since your speaker budget is in the $4000 range, a lot of speakers at that level are harder to drive than cheaper ones. Some examples are the speakers from Dynaudio, Totem, and even Paradigm.

With that chunk of change btw I recommend you check out the Paradigm Studio 60 or 40 for the fronts, the matching center, and Studio 20 rears. For sub Take a look at the PB13 Ultra or if you need something smaller the new HSU ULS-15. Or you always go with something like dual PB12's used in conjunction with a behringer feedback destroyer to get good output in your big room.

 

[mazersteven]

Before you get to involved with what receiver you'll need. My recommendation would be to select your main L/R speakers first. I wouldn't even think about a receiver right now.

 

[Adam]

Here's my philosophy behind the receiver recommendations that I made earlier - buy the least expensive receiver that has all of the features that you want now and for the next couple of years. This is assuming that you aren't looking at the $5k class of receivers, but rather the $500 to $1k class. Why? Because technology keeps getting better and cheaper. Surround sound formats change, connections change (composite video went to s-video, which went to component video, which went to HDMI, which will go to something else), and so forth.

I spent $1k on a receiver back in late 1997, and really stretched my budget to do it. Oh, baby...it was the stuff. The first Dolby Digital receiver at or under $1k. I was cutting edge and sooo happy...for a very short while. Fast forward six months from then. DTS. Hmmm, what's that? A surround sound format that my receiver can't play, and my receiver didn't have multi-channel inputs (no one talked about them at the time). Prices plummeted, and then newer formats came out. That was the last "cutting edge" receiver that I plan on ever buying.

You don't need to be in that type of position, though. The $400 class of receivers has the latest surround sound decoders and the latest connections. I say get one of those, be happy, and if you want to upgrade in the future, get one of the $400 receivers at that time. Then, you've spent less than you would on a "future proof" receiver today, and let's face it - none of them is future proof. They aren't really even two-years-from-now proof, IMO. $400 is just an example amount, but I hope that my reasoning came across.

 

[rsd22]

Came across loud and clear, and more importantly -- made all the sense in the world

 

[rsd22]

Before you get to involved with what receiver you'll need. My recommendation would be to select your main L/R speakers first. I wouldn't even think about a receiver right now.

Are you saying that if I was looking at a 663 vs. say the 1018 or 94, I should look to different speakers that fit the receiver?

 

[mazersteven]

Are you saying that if I was looking at a 663 vs. say the 1018 or 94, I should look to different speakers that fit the receiver?

What I'm saying is IMO it's harder to find the right speakers for you. Then to find the right amplification for those speakers.

 

[rnatalli]

Like others have already said, choose speakers first as they impact sound the most. Audition as many as possible. Take your time and have fun and allocate about 60-70% of your budget towards them. Once you have that down, you can worry about electronics. I do like the Yammie 663 and Emotiva XPA-5 suggestion. That combo will push just about anything.

 

[jamie2112]

I think you should get the receiver that suits your needs. All of the ones you listed will sound the same, its your speakers that define your sound. I would recommend listening to as many as you can with your own material. I would still recommend Yamaha VX series ,the 863 is a great unit as well for under $1000.

 

[aberkowitz]

Like others have already said, choose speakers first as they impact sound the most. Audition as many as possible. Take your time and have fun and allocate about 60-70% of your budget towards them. Once you have that down, you can worry about electronics. I do like the Yammie 663 and Emotiva XPA-5 suggestion. That combo will push just about anything.

One of the most important things about auditioning speakers is making sure you have proper reference material. Find movies & music that you personally enjoy. While all of us can come up with great recommendations, use your own judgment b/c only your ear can tell what you like. Don't count on a store having the "right" material for you.

 

[poutanen]

Hi Aaron, Silly question, but I'm full of questions of this nature. Why would I need to add an amplifier to what would be a new receiver?

Doug

Hey Doug, this is just my own opinion of course, based on my own typical usage, but I wanted lots of headroom in a system. Most of the time I listen to my system at pedestrian levels, but every once in a while I like to shut all the windows in the house, sit back, close my eyes, and crank it...

For the overall volume levels I like, I wouldn't be able to get a receiver for what I paid for the Yamaha and my amps:

Yamaha RX-V1500 - $750
Behringer A500 - $200 x 2 (mains)
Denon POA-5200 - $200 used (running one channel at 4 ohms for my centre)

So I'm talking about $1350 to get (advertised) 500w to my mains, 200w to my centres, and the Yamaha runs my surrounds and my zone-2 speakers.

My point is this: I had no idea I was going to get this far into it when I started really buying stuff 6-7 years ago, and since then I've gone through 3 receivers. I picked up the RX-V1500 about 2.5 yr ago, and I'm still in love with the thing... because I am not limited in how much power I can put down, if I choose. The only thing it doesn't have is HDMI (which of couse the 663, RX-V1800, and 3800 all have), but unless I'm on glue, I'm getting 1080p out of the PS3 via component cables, 1080i out of the HD cable box via component, and my projector has no problem receiving and decoding signals in all standard formats (480i/480p/720p/1080i/1080p) through component cables. So I don't see why I would need HDMI now or in the future.

I agree that speakers are VERY important, and that most any good receiver at regular listening levels will be as transparent as the next, but ensure that what you buy doesn't limit your connectivity.