OK, already.......It's for a 65' boat!

[Luna]

We are off to the Stones concert in Seattle on the 14 of Aug./19 and the wife insists that we need a new Home Theatre and 2 Channel system on board before we go. " I'll do my best" I said,..........I know nothing about this stuff! But I do agree with her.

I do know this:
- I can fit a 50" flat screen in the Salon on the existing lift, out of the existing cabinet. The old 50" Dell power hog plasma just has to go !! I can no longer tolerate the power consumption. A new lcd TV draws about 1/3 rd the power.
- The TV sits diagonally across and near the corner of a 15' by 15' room. Far from ideal I gather, but it is what it is.
- A new Blu-Ray/DVD player is a must. The existing one, a JVC from 2005 owes me nothing.
- I don"t know whether 5.2 or 7.2 or any other .2 is required. I do know that the room can be loud while underway as you are sitting on top of 2 -800 hp Caterpillars.
- There are 4 - 6" diameter speakers in the ceiling that the previous owner installed that I know work, but have not run in 5 years. I am fully prepared to put a new centre channel and bookshelf speakers in this room. Likely more.

On the 2 Channel side, (If that is what it is called) the wife really likes her Rock and Roll, but I won't allow too loud of music on board, at rest, unless there are no boats within a mile, (which is not uncommon) so I would like some nice crisp sound that can be turned up if allowed.

I need to provide 2 Channel sound to 3 distinct areas, each about 15' by 15' by 8'

- The same Salon that the Home Theatre is in. (Think of it as a small Living room.)
- The Cockpit, its like a balcony to the Salon, that is separated by a sliding glass door.
- The Flybridge, it's one floor up and it needs, in this room, it's own method of turning the volume down for this room only,
as I navigate (drive the boat) from this area and I need to control the volume while driving. ( By the way my Phone is just that, a phone, nothing else. I hope you want be too disappointed but I won't be following you on Facebook, Instagram, Etc. Etc. A wired volume control therefore would be nice.)
-I need to acquire speakers for each of these areas.

Further, small is always good on a boat (not price but size) so keep that in mind in any responses, should I be lucky enough to garner any.

I have looked at the Marantz NR1710 & the Yamaha RX-S602 on this site and have no clue as to whether or not they will do what I (or the wife) needs. Perhaps an amp is required? Here I need your help.

Finally, I am fully prepared to pay for any good advice, but it has to be just that. Good. Trust me here, you won't be disappointed. I need a complete system, half measures won't do. I also expect to buy the goods from this site as I typically don't shop Amazon.

I will do the installation, that without a doubt I can do. I specialize in running wires. Selecting components in this instance, I'm useless.

Thats enough for a first ever (on any site) post.

Thanks in advance.

Thomas

 

[TLS Guy]

We are off to the Stones concert in Seattle on the 14 of Aug./19 and the wife insists that we need a new Home Theatre and 2 Channel system on board before we go. " I'll do my best" I said,..........I know nothing about this stuff! But I do agree with her.

I do know this:
- I can fit a 50" flat screen in the Salon on the existing lift, out of the existing cabinet. The old 50" Dell power hog plasma just has to go !! I can no longer tolerate the power consumption. A new lcd TV draws about 1/3 rd the power.
- The TV sits diagonally across and near the corner of a 15' by 15' room. Far from ideal I gather, but it is what it is.
- A new Blu-Ray/DVD player is a must. The existing one, a JVC from 2005 owes me nothing.
- I don"t know whether 5.2 or 7.2 or any other .2 is required. I do know that the room can be loud while underway as you are sitting on top of 2 -800 hp Caterpillars.
- There are 4 - 6" diameter speakers in the ceiling that the previous owner installed that I know work, but have not run in 5 years. I am fully prepared to put a new centre channel and bookshelf speakers in this room. Likely more.

On the 2 Channel side, (If that is what it is called) the wife really likes her Rock and Roll, but I won't allow too loud of music on board, at rest, unless there are no boats within a mile, (which is not uncommon) so I would like some nice crisp sound that can be turned up if allowed.

I need to provide 2 Channel sound to 3 distinct areas, each about 15' by 15' by 8'

- The same Salon that the Home Theatre is in. (Think of it as a small Living room.)
- The Cockpit, its like a balcony to the Salon, that is separated by a sliding glass door.
- The Flybridge, it's one floor up and it needs, in this room, it's own method of turning the volume down for this room only,
as I navigate (drive the boat) from this area and I need to control the volume while driving. ( By the way my Phone is just that, a phone, nothing else. I hope you want be too disappointed but I won't be following you on Facebook, Instagram, Etc. Etc. A wired volume control therefore would be nice.)
-I need to acquire speakers for each of these areas.

Further, small is always good on a boat (not price but size) so keep that in mind in any responses, should I be lucky enough to garner any.

I have looked at the Marantz NR1710 & the Yamaha RX-S602 on this site and have no clue as to whether or not they will do what I (or the wife) needs. Perhaps an amp is required? Here I need your help.

Finally, I am fully prepared to pay for any good advice, but it has to be just that. Good. Trust me here, you won't be disappointed. I need a complete system, half measures won't do. I also expect to buy the goods from this site as I typically don't shop Amazon.

I will do the installation, that without a doubt I can do. I specialize in running wires. Selecting components in this instance, I'm useless.

Thats enough for a first ever (on any site) post.

Thanks in advance.

Thomas

I don't think on this forum there is anyone with the knowledge and experience to help you.

This is a really tough project. Audio I think I could do, but an AV system above two 800 HP diesels in a 65' boat on the Pacific ocean is something that may not even be possible.

Domestic equipment is not really practical. It needs to be designed for a harsh marine environment or you will waste your money.

First off you are not on the grid. You will have a generator with output, waveform and smoothing that is not known to us, and would have to be tested and analysed.
The marine environment is harsh with the salt water air. Then an even bigger problem is vibration of the engines and the pounding of the sea. A 65' boat powered by 1600 HP in the Pacific ocean is going the give the gear a pounding to put is mildly. Domestic equipment will not last five minutes, but blow up fast.

So you are going to need equipment that is built from aircraft grade components at least.

I have done a search on the question you pose, and this type of equipment is around to an extent.

I have to tell you that you absolutely need the help of a specialist marine integrator for what you are planning.

It seems you are on the West Coast at least within sea range of Seattle. The only outfit that I can find that might take on your project is Definitive.

I have looked at others, there is a large outfit in the UK that will go anywhere in the world but I suspect for a very high price.

One thing that I have noticed is that these outfits do not have projects in boats as small as yours. Their work is in boats largely in the 120 to 150 ft class.

Unfortunately this may well be for practical reasons.

So you need professional advice first to see if your project as described is even practical and feasible.

I would get in touch with Definitive. Any advice any of us here would give, would be worthless.

 

[BMXTRIX]

While it is great that you can run wires to speaker locations, I think that you are going to want to look into marine grade speakers which can handle a bit more of the atmosphere they will be exposed to.

If the main area is a surround area, then I would be looking into a Marantz surround receiver as long as it can be placed in a location with good air control. If multiple zones of audio are still needed with remote source selection and volume control, then I would look into a control system like Crestron. Working with the right programmer, it can allow for a few pieces and remote setup and very high reliability. Cost can be a fair bit for the gear, but for basic stereo audio distribution of a few sources, you can actually get into the hardware for not a lot of cash and the equipment is regularly used in larger boats.

You will need to find a good location for the equipment and should be using a pull-out Middle Atlantic Rack with proper ventilation. I can't emphasize this enough as many times the electronics are stuffed into a cabinet without any airflow and people wonder why the equipment fails.

It will need at least 20" of width, and about the same in height and about 22"-26" for the gear at a minimum for proper overall design. Wiring is straightforward enough, or should be. 14/4 cabling to all speaker pairs, and 14/2 within the main surround area along with RG6 for the subwoofer. I would likely buy the good Belden cable to help fight RF noise in such a tight electrical environment for subwoofer location(s).

 

[highfigh]

We are off to the Stones concert in Seattle on the 14 of Aug./19 and the wife insists that we need a new Home Theatre and 2 Channel system on board before we go. " I'll do my best" I said,..........I know nothing about this stuff! But I do agree with her.

I do know this:
- I can fit a 50" flat screen in the Salon on the existing lift, out of the existing cabinet. The old 50" Dell power hog plasma just has to go !! I can no longer tolerate the power consumption. A new lcd TV draws about 1/3 rd the power.
- The TV sits diagonally across and near the corner of a 15' by 15' room. Far from ideal I gather, but it is what it is.
- A new Blu-Ray/DVD player is a must. The existing one, a JVC from 2005 owes me nothing.
- I don"t know whether 5.2 or 7.2 or any other .2 is required. I do know that the room can be loud while underway as you are sitting on top of 2 -800 hp Caterpillars.
- There are 4 - 6" diameter speakers in the ceiling that the previous owner installed that I know work, but have not run in 5 years. I am fully prepared to put a new centre channel and bookshelf speakers in this room. Likely more.

On the 2 Channel side, (If that is what it is called) the wife really likes her Rock and Roll, but I won't allow too loud of music on board, at rest, unless there are no boats within a mile, (which is not uncommon) so I would like some nice crisp sound that can be turned up if allowed.

I need to provide 2 Channel sound to 3 distinct areas, each about 15' by 15' by 8'

- The same Salon that the Home Theatre is in. (Think of it as a small Living room.)
- The Cockpit, its like a balcony to the Salon, that is separated by a sliding glass door.
- The Flybridge, it's one floor up and it needs, in this room, it's own method of turning the volume down for this room only,
as I navigate (drive the boat) from this area and I need to control the volume while driving. ( By the way my Phone is just that, a phone, nothing else. I hope you want be too disappointed but I won't be following you on Facebook, Instagram, Etc. Etc. A wired volume control therefore would be nice.)
-I need to acquire speakers for each of these areas.

Further, small is always good on a boat (not price but size) so keep that in mind in any responses, should I be lucky enough to garner any.

I have looked at the Marantz NR1710 & the Yamaha RX-S602 on this site and have no clue as to whether or not they will do what I (or the wife) needs. Perhaps an amp is required? Here I need your help.

Finally, I am fully prepared to pay for any good advice, but it has to be just that. Good. Trust me here, you won't be disappointed. I need a complete system, half measures won't do. I also expect to buy the goods from this site as I typically don't shop Amazon.

I will do the installation, that without a doubt I can do. I specialize in running wires. Selecting components in this instance, I'm useless.

Thats enough for a first ever (on any site) post.

Thanks in advance.

Thomas

This isn't for a Sunseeker Predator, is it?

I just did one last month and it originally had some kind of car stereo in a cabinet near the sliding doors between the cockpit and Salon- that had been replaced by a Bose Lifestyle 48 and the little speakers that go with it- contrary to my usual opinion, it didn't sound as bad as I would have expected but i was still pretty weak. It also had Bose SA2 power amps, one dedicated for the Cockpit speakers and one for the rooftop speakers and each had its own remote control. It also had a Fusion BT receiver and DirecTV HR24 satellite receiver.

I replaced the Lifestyle receiver (which needed their video enhancer to allow HDMI to work) with a Marantz SR-1710 and each of the Bose SA2 amplifiers with Denon HEOS Amp units, which all communicate through the HEOS app, with independent control over each zone. I left the dinky Bose speakers but before I replaced anything, I used my RTA app to find a rough frequency range for them, so I could dial in the Marantz crossover. I replaced the Bose sub with an 8" model from Episode, then raised the crossover frequency to 240Hz on the Marantz and to the maximum on the sub, which shows 250Hz. I set the sub level to about the middle of the range and it immediately sounded better than the Bose (partially due to the Bose equalization) and after a bit of EQ, it was decent. With those speakers, it will never be amazing, but it's really not terrible. The Marantz also has Bluetooth, so the Fusion BT receiver came out, too. I'll be taking music from the boat owner's Request music server and saving it to a thumb drive this week (hopefully) so he can plug it into the Marantz AVR and use the USB as a source in HEOS. We're not using a cellular modem for the router, but as long as they use their cellular data for Pandora, Spotify or whatever they send from their phones, they don't need it. HEOS only needs a local network to operate. You could use the Yamaha with MusicCast in the same way and either use the amplified model of MusicCast (WXA-50) or the WXC-50 unamplified model if you need more power. IMO, HEOS and MusicCast sound better than Sonos.

So far, I have heard nothing about noise in the AV system and saw no noise bars on the screens.

 

[highfigh]

I don't think on this forum there is anyone with the knowledge and experience to help you.

This is a really tough project. Audio I think I could do, but an AV system above two 800 HP diesels in a 65' boat on the Pacific ocean is something that may not even be possible.

Domestic equipment is not really practical. It needs to be designed for a harsh marine environment or you will waste your money.

First off you are not on the grid. You will have a generator with output, waveform and smoothing that is not known to us, and would have to be tested and analysed.
The marine environment is harsh with the salt water air. Then an even bigger problem is vibration of the engines and the pounding of the sea. A 65' boat powered by 1600 HP in the Pacific ocean is going the give the gear a pounding to put is mildly. Domestic equipment will not last five minutes, but blow up fast.

So you are going to need equipment that is built from aircraft grade components at least.

I have done a search on the question you pose, and this type of equipment is around to an extent.

I have to tell you that you absolutely need the help of a specialist marine integrator for what you are planning.

It seems you are on the West Coast at least within sea range of Seattle. The only outfit that I can find that might take on your project is Definitive.

I have looked at others, there is a large outfit in the UK that will go anywhere in the world but I suspect for a very high price.

One thing that I have noticed is that these outfits do not have projects in boats as small as yours. Their work is in boats largely in the 120 to 150 ft class.

Unfortunately this may well be for practical reasons.

So you need professional advice first to see if your project as described is even practical and feasible.

I would get in touch with Definitive. Any advice any of us here would give, would be worthless.

The Sunseeker I described in my last post was docked in Florida for years and the Bose system didn't have any problems with that (other than affecting the aluminum brackets for the dinky Bose speakers)- it's not an open boat, it has heat & air conditioning. The generators used in these are usually oversized and capable of powering delicate electronics without sending them to meet their maker- I don't know when the Bose was installed, but it was made in 2004 and was still working as of last month. I don't know how much time that yacht spent away from port, but when they're not on the water, the AC runs because shore power is included in dockage fees. Due to the long reboot time when switching from shore power to ship's power, I installed a UPS on the AVR, Satellite receiver, router and both HEOS units. None of the five TVs or the four satellite receivers in the berths has one, but the H15 sat receivers use a computer-style power supply- the TVs are Samsung and all operate on AC, some of which was installed by a company in Michigan, owned and operated by someone who's an Electrical Engineer- marine electrical is all they do.

 

[KEW]

The Sunseeker I described in my last post was docked in Florida for years and the Bose system didn't have any problems with that (other than affecting the aluminum brackets for the dinky Bose speakers)- it's not an open boat, it has heat & air conditioning. The generators used in these are usually oversized and capable of powering delicate electronics without sending them to meet their maker- I don't know when the Bose was installed, but it was made in 2004 and was still working as of last month. I don't know how much time that yacht spent away from port, but when they're not on the water, the AC runs because shore power is included in dockage fees. Due to the long reboot time when switching from shore power to ship's power, I installed a UPS on the AVR, Satellite receiver, router and both HEOS units. None of the five TVs or the four satellite receivers in the berths has one, but the H15 sat receivers use a computer-style power supply- the TVs are Samsung and all operate on AC, some of which was installed by a company in Michigan, owned and operated by someone who's an Electrical Engineer- marine electrical is all they do.

Sounds like an interesting and fun project!

 

[highfigh]

I don't think on this forum there is anyone with the knowledge and experience to help you.

This is a really tough project. Audio I think I could do, but an AV system above two 800 HP diesels in a 65' boat on the Pacific ocean is something that may not even be possible.

Domestic equipment is not really practical. It needs to be designed for a harsh marine environment or you will waste your money.

First off you are not on the grid. You will have a generator with output, waveform and smoothing that is not known to us, and would have to be tested and analysed.
The marine environment is harsh with the salt water air. Then an even bigger problem is vibration of the engines and the pounding of the sea. A 65' boat powered by 1600 HP in the Pacific ocean is going the give the gear a pounding to put is mildly. Domestic equipment will not last five minutes, but blow up fast.

So you are going to need equipment that is built from aircraft grade components at least.

I have done a search on the question you pose, and this type of equipment is around to an extent.

I have to tell you that you absolutely need the help of a specialist marine integrator for what you are planning.

It seems you are on the West Coast at least within sea range of Seattle. The only outfit that I can find that might take on your project is Definitive.

I have looked at others, there is a large outfit in the UK that will go anywhere in the world but I suspect for a very high price.

One thing that I have noticed is that these outfits do not have projects in boats as small as yours. Their work is in boats largely in the 120 to 150 ft class.

Unfortunately this may well be for practical reasons.

So you need professional advice first to see if your project as described is even practical and feasible.

I would get in touch with Definitive. Any advice any of us here would give, would be worthless.

I am a member of a forum for custom integrators and one of the other members works for a company that installs AV in yachts & super yachts- they use Marantz, HEOS and several other consumer brands because the sound quality is very good and they hold up in this use, but again, the boats aren't open to the elements for most of the time in the way a smaller boat would be. The outdoor speakers on the one I described are all JL Audio, made for the marine environment.

Owners of yachts like these know that their electronics will have a finite life- the benefits of aviation grade components isn't necessary and if something fails, they may understand that it's not the end of the world unless it fails AND burns. I used Planet Waves shielded cable for the subwoofer feed and I heard no noises from any power near it-the area behind the TV lift is large and has lots of AC power outlets, with space for cooling.

 

[Luna]

Thanks for all of the replies to date. My comments are as follows:

The notion that " Domestic equipment will not last 5 minutes, but blow up fast." is simply absurd based on the fact that domestic equipment in the form of tvs, dvd players, sat. receivers, speakers and game consoles have been on board for a minimum of 10 years, with no failures. Typically the difference between Marine rated components and Domestic components are a conformal coating on the boards and a brighter display. In this instance with the exception of the outside speakers, I'm quite sure Domestic equipment will be fine.

Thanks for the lead on Crestron, I will pursue them further. The Mid. Alt. Rack won't work due to space and I acknowledge to need for cooling and the cabling recommendation.

No, not a Sunseeker, it's a Tollycraft.
The boat however is likely very similar as it to is not an open boat, has A/C and heat, various pieces of A/V equipment, full size domestic appliances, 2 generators (8 & 20 Kw.) etc. etc.
I to do not experience any corrosion or vibration effects to any of the electronics on board. The boat is warm and dry and when not in use floats inside a boathouse, no sun, rain, or snow and has never froze.
The long delay in switching from shore to gen. set power likely exist to protect the gen. set from 2 things, the large but brief loads associated with a bunch of motors ( refrigeration, A/C compressors, and pumps) all restarting at the same time and voltage transients from the motors or lighting. On my boat the contactors are delayed 2 seconds.
If the boat has an inverter that also powers the A/V system it should turn on and provide 120 V power in about 25 ms (1/40 of a cycle)of the power loss and power the loads during the 2 second power transfer delay. I know mine does and nothing currently drops out. With the inverter (which is really just a large UPS, mine total 7 Kva) the need for an additional UPS to solve the transfer delay issue escapes me. Perhaps the A/V system is not on an inverter protected circuit or the inverter was simply off when you did your work. I turn my inverters off when I leave the boat for more than a few days as I prefer to, in the event of a long power loss, replace the spoilage in the fridge rather than run the house batteries down to 10.5 volts running the 2 fridges.
I also agree that as long as it does not burn replacing this type of equipment every 10 years is not unacceptable.

The existing space on board will only allow for a Slimeline (4" tall) AVR. To me the Marantz NR1710 seems the best of the few available. On this unit, after a bit of study, I still have a few questions.

1.) I expect to put in a 5.1 system, likely using 3 RSL CG23's, 2-CG3's and a 10s. I'm hoping that will be acceptable for the home theatre, even with only 50 W per channel. In 2 channel mode, I'm assuming only the L & R speakers are driven (can someone confirm this !!) and here I may need to provide more power, the speakers are rated to 125W.
Can this NR1710 be connected to an amp.? If so ,were does this amp connect on the NR1710? If not, an I stuck?

2.) The NR1710 has what they call Multi-Room zones, of which they say there are 2. My understanding here is that this could be used to drive 2 speakers in another room and then, 2 more speakers in yet another room.Is this right? (The speakers would be wired as I'm not up to speed on all this wireless stuff, although from what I see most of the wireless stuff still needs an AC source, so is it really wireless?) The other questions are: Which of the 7 available channels drive these 2 speakers? Marantz says the Multi-Room speaker terminals are"assignable". Does this mean I can pick any of the 7 channels and have all 3 sets of speakers receive the same output from the receiver, all at the same time? Can I add an amp to these channels? If so, where does it hook up?

3.) If I can add an amp. which one would accomplish the above?

4.) If I can"t add an amp, can someone advise on a Slimeline AVR that is compatible with an amp. and can do most if not all of the above?

5.) RSL advises to (if settable) use the 8 ohm setting on the receiver. I don't think the NR1710 is settable.
That being said is there a material downside if some of the speakers are 8 ohm while others are 6 ohm?
Marine rated speakers are typically 6 or 4 ohm.

Again thank for all the current and future replies.

 

[-Jim-]

This sounds like a great project, but don't expect in house type results. The issue you have is the predetermined environment of the Main Salon, Flying Bridge, etc. It not only constrains the equipment selection, but will greatly affect it's overall performance. A buddy of mine bought a new 42 Foot Cabo some years ago and I convinced him to install Satellite TV on it with a 32 inch LED TV. It must be close to a decade later, and it still works fine. Like mentioned by others it has heat / AC, and there are no power conditioning issues.

The Cabo installed 5.1 system was a Bose Lifestyle system that made us both cringe, but when you're fishing for world class salmon in the North Pacific, you make due. His boat has twin 700 HP MAN Turbo Diesels but we rarely ran the system with the boat moving under power. I can only remember one time when we were catching Halibut & Salmon and a Football game was on that we wanted to see, and the odd breakfast when we watched the morning news.

I do almost all of his electrical, and computer work. And that includes navigation. The Bose unit does malfunction periodically and he talks about a possible replacement. Personally I'd go in another direction. But in your case, without knowing the specific geography that you have & what you are willing to mount where, it's tough to offer really good advice.

Good Luck with the project.

 

[highfigh]

Thanks for all of the replies to date. My comments are as follows:

The notion that " Domestic equipment will not last 5 minutes, but blow up fast." is simply absurd based on the fact that domestic equipment in the form of tvs, dvd players, sat. receivers, speakers and game consoles have been on board for a minimum of 10 years, with no failures. Typically the difference between Marine rated components and Domestic components are a conformal coating on the boards and a brighter display. In this instance with the exception of the outside speakers, I'm quite sure Domestic equipment will be fine.

Thanks for the lead on Crestron, I will pursue them further. The Mid. Alt. Rack won't work due to space and I acknowledge to need for cooling and the cabling recommendation.

No, not a Sunseeker, it's a Tollycraft.
The boat however is likely very similar as it to is not an open boat, has A/C and heat, various pieces of A/V equipment, full size domestic appliances, 2 generators (8 & 20 Kw.) etc. etc.
I to do not experience any corrosion or vibration effects to any of the electronics on board. The boat is warm and dry and when not in use floats inside a boathouse, no sun, rain, or snow and has never froze.
The long delay in switching from shore to gen. set power likely exist to protect the gen. set from 2 things, the large but brief loads associated with a bunch of motors ( refrigeration, A/C compressors, and pumps) all restarting at the same time and voltage transients from the motors or lighting. On my boat the contactors are delayed 2 seconds.
If the boat has an inverter that also powers the A/V system it should turn on and provide 120 V power in about 25 ms (1/40 of a cycle)of the power loss and power the loads during the 2 second power transfer delay. I know mine does and nothing currently drops out. With the inverter (which is really just a large UPS, mine total 7 Kva) the need for an additional UPS to solve the transfer delay issue escapes me. Perhaps the A/V system is not on an inverter protected circuit or the inverter was simply off when you did your work. I turn my inverters off when I leave the boat for more than a few days as I prefer to, in the event of a long power loss, replace the spoilage in the fridge rather than run the house batteries down to 10.5 volts running the 2 fridges.
I also agree that as long as it does not burn replacing this type of equipment every 10 years is not unacceptable.

The existing space on board will only allow for a Slimeline (4" tall) AVR. To me the Marantz NR1710 seems the best of the few available. On this unit, after a bit of study, I still have a few questions.

1.) I expect to put in a 5.1 system, likely using 3 RSL CG23's, 2-CG3's and a 10s. I'm hoping that will be acceptable for the home theatre, even with only 50 W per channel. In 2 channel mode, I'm assuming only the L & R speakers are driven (can someone confirm this !!) and here I may need to provide more power, the speakers are rated to 125W.
Can this NR1710 be connected to an amp.? If so ,were does this amp connect on the NR1710? If not, an I stuck?

2.) The NR1710 has what they call Multi-Room zones, of which they say there are 2. My understanding here is that this could be used to drive 2 speakers in another room and then, 2 more speakers in yet another room.Is this right? (The speakers would be wired as I'm not up to speed on all this wireless stuff, although from what I see most of the wireless stuff still needs an AC source, so is it really wireless?) The other questions are: Which of the 7 available channels drive these 2 speakers? Marantz says the Multi-Room speaker terminals are"assignable". Does this mean I can pick any of the 7 channels and have all 3 sets of speakers receive the same output from the receiver, all at the same time? Can I add an amp to these channels? If so, where does it hook up?

3.) If I can add an amp. which one would accomplish the above?

4.) If I can"t add an amp, can someone advise on a Slimeline AVR that is compatible with an amp. and can do most if not all of the above?

5.) RSL advises to (if settable) use the 8 ohm setting on the receiver. I don't think the NR1710 is settable.
That being said is there a material downside if some of the speakers are 8 ohm while others are 6 ohm?
Marine rated speakers are typically 6 or 4 ohm.

Again thank for all the current and future replies.

The UPS is to ensure that no long delays occur, more as a courtesy than anything else- if it annoys me, it will surely annoy the boat owner and I have been doing this kind of work for them since 2006, so I know what annoys them.

The Marantz has a pair of RCA outputs to feed an amplifier for Zone 2- you can use two channels when the surround will include 5.1 but not both, AFAIK.

Are you using marine speakers in the salon? If not, I wouldn't worry much about the impedance unless you'll be driving them hard all day, every day and preventing the AVR from cooling. The 8 vs 4 Ohm setting is purely a UL thing to be used for testing, not general use.

 

[highfigh]

This sounds like a great project, but don't expect in house type results. The issue you have is the predetermined environment of the Main Salon, Flying Bridge, etc. It not only constrains the equipment selection, but will greatly affect it's overall performance. A buddy of mine bought a new 42 Foot Cabo some years ago and I convinced him to install Satellite TV on it with a 32 inch LED TV. It must be close to a decade later, and it still works fine. Like mentioned by others it has heat / AC, and there are no power conditioning issues.

The Cabo installed 5.1 system was a Bose Lifestyle system that made us both cringe, but when you're fishing for world class salmon in the North Pacific, you make due. His boat has twin 700 HP MAN Turbo Diesels but we rarely ran the system with the boat moving under power. I can only remember one time when we were catching Halibut & Salmon and a Football game was on that we wanted to see, and the odd breakfast when we watched the morning news.

The boat owner I mentioned had a previous boat and before I did any work on it, it had a Samsung TV mounted to the radar arch. They liked to leave the canvas top up, so it was never really exposed to rain and that TV was probably close to ten years old when he sold it this Spring. It's amazing stereo units that are similar or the same as car stereos survive as long as they do in boats when they're only behind a cheap plastic cover that may be left open and certainly don't seal well. Even without the conformal coating, I have seen them last 15-20 years. Weather-sealed terminals in most boats? Not a chance!

 

[Luna]

The majority of the feedback seems to agree that Domestic equipment is fine for the HT system that resides in the Salon. This is consistent with my experience. The cockpit and flybridge areas that are subjected to water will be fitted with Marine rated speakers. This is now settled in my mind. Thanks.

My comments on the new UPS simply revolved around the fact that you likely already had one (and a much better one to boot) on board. Adding another piece of equipment also brings with it the consequences that result when it fails. Regardless, the owner is happy, lets move on. (BTW 25 ms is 1.5 cycles, not 1/40 of a cycle as previously stated. The existing equipment still doesn't care it just keeps working)

I am still unclear as to my questions regarding the amplification abilities of this system.

Is there anyone on the forum that could enlighten me on this aspect of the NR1710 AVR?

 

[lovinthehd]

Thanks for all of the replies to date. My comments are as follows:

The notion that " Domestic equipment will not last 5 minutes, but blow up fast." is simply absurd based on the fact that domestic equipment in the form of tvs, dvd players, sat. receivers, speakers and game consoles have been on board for a minimum of 10 years, with no failures. Typically the difference between Marine rated components and Domestic components are a conformal coating on the boards and a brighter display. In this instance with the exception of the outside speakers, I'm quite sure Domestic equipment will be fine.

Thanks for the lead on Crestron, I will pursue them further. The Mid. Alt. Rack won't work due to space and I acknowledge to need for cooling and the cabling recommendation.

No, not a Sunseeker, it's a Tollycraft.
The boat however is likely very similar as it to is not an open boat, has A/C and heat, various pieces of A/V equipment, full size domestic appliances, 2 generators (8 & 20 Kw.) etc. etc.
I to do not experience any corrosion or vibration effects to any of the electronics on board. The boat is warm and dry and when not in use floats inside a boathouse, no sun, rain, or snow and has never froze.
The long delay in switching from shore to gen. set power likely exist to protect the gen. set from 2 things, the large but brief loads associated with a bunch of motors ( refrigeration, A/C compressors, and pumps) all restarting at the same time and voltage transients from the motors or lighting. On my boat the contactors are delayed 2 seconds.
If the boat has an inverter that also powers the A/V system it should turn on and provide 120 V power in about 25 ms (1/40 of a cycle)of the power loss and power the loads during the 2 second power transfer delay. I know mine does and nothing currently drops out. With the inverter (which is really just a large UPS, mine total 7 Kva) the need for an additional UPS to solve the transfer delay issue escapes me. Perhaps the A/V system is not on an inverter protected circuit or the inverter was simply off when you did your work. I turn my inverters off when I leave the boat for more than a few days as I prefer to, in the event of a long power loss, replace the spoilage in the fridge rather than run the house batteries down to 10.5 volts running the 2 fridges.
I also agree that as long as it does not burn replacing this type of equipment every 10 years is not unacceptable.

The existing space on board will only allow for a Slimeline (4" tall) AVR. To me the Marantz NR1710 seems the best of the few available. On this unit, after a bit of study, I still have a few questions.

1.) I expect to put in a 5.1 system, likely using 3 RSL CG23's, 2-CG3's and a 10s. I'm hoping that will be acceptable for the home theatre, even with only 50 W per channel. In 2 channel mode, I'm assuming only the L & R speakers are driven (can someone confirm this !!) and here I may need to provide more power, the speakers are rated to 125W.
Can this NR1710 be connected to an amp.? If so ,were does this amp connect on the NR1710? If not, an I stuck?

2.) The NR1710 has what they call Multi-Room zones, of which they say there are 2. My understanding here is that this could be used to drive 2 speakers in another room and then, 2 more speakers in yet another room.Is this right? (The speakers would be wired as I'm not up to speed on all this wireless stuff, although from what I see most of the wireless stuff still needs an AC source, so is it really wireless?) The other questions are: Which of the 7 available channels drive these 2 speakers? Marantz says the Multi-Room speaker terminals are"assignable". Does this mean I can pick any of the 7 channels and have all 3 sets of speakers receive the same output from the receiver, all at the same time? Can I add an amp to these channels? If so, where does it hook up?

3.) If I can add an amp. which one would accomplish the above?

4.) If I can"t add an amp, can someone advise on a Slimeline AVR that is compatible with an amp. and can do most if not all of the above?

5.) RSL advises to (if settable) use the 8 ohm setting on the receiver. I don't think the NR1710 is settable.
That being said is there a material downside if some of the speakers are 8 ohm while others are 6 ohm?
Marine rated speakers are typically 6 or 4 ohm.

Again thank for all the current and future replies.

1/ The 1710 has pre-outs for an external amp on the L/R channel and appears also for zone 2 (as well as two subs). Max speaker wattage ratings are good for limits but doesn't mean you need that much power. Use an spl calculator with your particular speakers' sensitivity and the distance you'll be from them to help determine your power needs.

2/ That's how zones generally work, not sure if Marantz is mixing zones with Heos (their wireless music brand), could only find a spec sheet rather than the manual in a brief look. The manual should detail what you can do.

3/ There are a variety of amps from a variety of vendors for a wide range of prices. I'd use something like a Crown XLS amp.

4/ Marantz' slimline series is the only one I can think of in an avr. The Outlaw 976 pre-pro is 4-5/8" high but then you need more space for amps as it doesn't have any of its own.

5/ You're fine on mixing impedance, try this article on the setting https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/impedance-selector-switch-1