Need a sub for under $300.

AlphaWolf

AlphaWolf

Junior Audioholic
I currently have a Polk PSW-111 sub, and it is disappointing at best. I previously auditioned a boston acoustics XB4 that could really shake my room with the explosions in V for Vendetta, but this PSW-111 one can do no such thing without turning the volume way up. I would go back to that XB4 but sadly it doesn't seem to be available in my area anymore, so I am looking for an alternative.

I only want to buy B&M, and the SVS/HSU subs are beyond my price range anyways. Does anybody have any good recommendations?

I have found that Fry's electronics offers the Velodyne VX-10 for $149, but that is only half the price of what they sell the PSW-111 for so I am a bit hesitant in that I am not sure if it can do what I am expecting.
 
R

rnatalli

Audioholic Ninja
The HSU STF-1 ($254) or av123 x-sub ($199). If you can stretch to $350, the HSU STF-2 is worth it. You could try for a b-stock STF-2 this Wednesday which will probably be around $300.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
I agree with all of those; That is what I would be looking at in your price range.
 
R

rnatalli

Audioholic Ninja
Having owned a Dayton sub, I can say that they make good HT and budget subs. However, the difference between it and my 2 HSU's is night and day, especially in regards to music and build quality. How large is the room it's going into?
 
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AlphaWolf

AlphaWolf

Junior Audioholic
The HSU STF-1 ($254) or av123 x-sub ($199). If you can stretch to $350, the HSU STF-2 is worth it. You could try for a b-stock STF-2 this Wednesday which will probably be around $300.
Problem with this though is I want to buy local. I like being able to try the hardware without being liable for the high costs in shipping these.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Having owned a Dayton sub, I can say that they make good HT and budget subs. However, the difference between it and my 2 HSU's is night and day, especially in regards to music and build quality. How large is the room it's going into?
Which Dayton sub did you own?
 
R

rnatalli

Audioholic Ninja
Which Dayton sub did you own?
The Sub-100. I've never heard the Titanic models so can't comment on those. The Sub-100 was a great HT sub and it could hit some lows, but it felt a bit like a one-note wonder to me. My HSU's both go lower and sound more musical; even the STF-1 which has a smaller 8" woofer and isn't spec'd down to where the Dayton can hit, but we all know about published specs. My Dayton also revealed more port noise than the HSU's. For the money, Dayton's are tough to beat, but for sound quality, SVS and HSU are king. It probably doesn't matter in this case as Alphawolf mentioned he wants to buy locally.
 
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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
The Sub-100. I've never heard the Titanic models so can't comment on those. The Sub-100 was a great HT sub and it could hit some lows, but it felt a bit like a one-note wonder to me. My HSU's both go lower and sound more musical; even the STF-1 which has a smaller 8" woofer and isn't spec'd down to where the Dayton can hit, but we all know about published specs. My Dayton also revealed more port noise than the HSU's. For the money, Dayton's are tough to beat, but for sound quality, SVS and HSU are king. It probably doesn't matter in this case as Alphawolf mentioned he wants to buy locally.
Your statement was a pretty broad generalization stating that "the difference is night a day" between Dayton and HSU. :) In your situation comparing a $126.00 subwoofer with a $299.00-$399.00 sub is a bit unfair. Of course there will be discrepencies. I would put a Titanic kit up against a Hsu most any day of the week as they are more evenly matched. I would put a well designed/built custom DIY enclosure up against any Hsu or SVS using the Titanic mkIII woofer, and I own an SVS PB-12 Ultra. :)


In any case you should be a bit more specific as to what model you used for comparison rather than blanket statement about Dayton. It would benefit the original poster more. Cheers.
 
R

rnatalli

Audioholic Ninja
In any case you should be a bit more specific as to what model you used for comparison rather than blanket statement about Dayton. It would benefit the original poster more. Cheers.
I was specific; I said "my" Dayton :p Kidding aside, you're right that I should have included the model number.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
The BIC H100 is a Dr. HSU designed 12" sub for under $300 shipped. I have two friends that own them and they are killer for the money. Also look at the ED A2-250 for $300 shipped.

Good luck
 
Soundman

Soundman

Audioholic Field Marshall
I currently have a Polk PSW-111 sub, and it is disappointing at best. I previously auditioned a boston acoustics XB4 that could really shake my room with the explosions in V for Vendetta, but this PSW-111 one can do no such thing without turning the volume way up. I would go back to that XB4 but sadly it doesn't seem to be available in my area anymore, so I am looking for an alternative.

I only want to buy B&M, and the SVS/HSU subs are beyond my price range anyways. Does anybody have any good recommendations?

I have found that Fry's electronics offers the Velodyne VX-10 for $149, but that is only half the price of what they sell the PSW-111 for so I am a bit hesitant in that I am not sure if it can do what I am expecting.
Was the size of your room ever mentioned? If your goal is to feel the impact, a $300 sub might not give you the performance you're looking for if it's a larger room. It's always best to have a little headroom when purchasing a sub. If your room is fairly small this may not be an issue, but if it's a decent size room, you may want to save up, if necessary, to make sure you don't regret your purchase. Personally, I would look at the SVS PB10-NSD. That sub has excellent performance for the money. I know, at around $400.00, that's a little outside your budget, but if you check the B-stock, you may find one a bit cheaper. I believe you also mentioned buying locally, so you can return. But if you buy a good solid sub, like say an SVS or HSU, you will have no reason to return it. In fact, after you hear it, you'll probably want another one. ;)
 
AlphaWolf

AlphaWolf

Junior Audioholic
Sorry I forgot to mention the size of my room. It is a 10x12 room with wood flooring.

I actually did manage to find another Boston Acoustics XB4 at circuit city, open box, and used a $40 off coupon bringing down the price to $160. Trying the sub again with my current mains right now, and so far it sounds decent just like it did with the previous mains I tried it with. A few reviews can be found here:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Customer-reviews-for-Boston-Acoustics-10-Front-Firing-Subwoofer/sem/rpsm/oid/159479/rpem/ccd/productDetailReview.do#tabs

Plus there are a few on these forums that have tried them and had comments along the same lines. I am not an expert at listening or critiquing subs, but what I notice so far is that this sub can shake the room without making any of those weird port noises. Especially in games like oblivion where if you hold your shield up when somebody strikes you, you can actually "feel" the impact.

There is however one nagging concern. Namely, that this sub doesn't go below 35hz at normal listening levels. My understanding is that human hearing can usually go down to 20hz. Would this mean I am missing much for the listening habits mentioned in my signature?
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
There is however one nagging concern. Namely, that this sub doesn't go below 35hz at normal listening levels. My understanding is that human hearing can usually go down to 20hz. Would this mean I am missing much for the listening habits mentioned in my signature?
You bet, because even though you can't hear below 20Hz, you can feel way below.:eek:
Also, seeing as how music is not the main concern, I would recommend using the sub that will go the lowest.
It is my belief that extreme LF is not as important for music. I find that a sub tuned to 25-28Hz LF is best for music.
 
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AlphaWolf

AlphaWolf

Junior Audioholic
Don't you have to have extra equipment to calibrate those sub kits?
 
AlphaWolf

AlphaWolf

Junior Audioholic
You bet, because even though you can't hear below 20Hz, you can feel way below.:eek:
Also, seeing as how music is not the main concern, I would recommend using the sub that will go the lowest.
It is my belief that extreme LF is not as important for music. I find that a sub tuned to 25-28Hz LF is best for music.
Hmm...one other thing though, I am already thinking about getting a buttkicker gamer and mounting it to the chair. Its frequency response goes well down to something like 12hz. So everything between 12hz and 35hz would just be rumble effect and no sound. Isn't this basically what I would get out of something like e.g. an x-sub anyways? Or would I actually be able to hear anything below 35hz at normal listening volumes?
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
Hmm...one other thing though, I am already thinking about getting a buttkicker gamer and mounting it to the chair. Its frequency response goes well down to something like 12hz. So everything between 12hz and 35hz would just be rumble effect and no sound. Isn't this basically what I would get out of something like e.g. an x-sub anyways? Or would I actually be able to hear anything below 35hz at normal listening volumes?
You can hear all the way to 20Hz. That's 15 below 35 last time I checked. And, while you can't hear below 20Hz, feeling it adds to the enjoyment. And, I would go as far to say that feeling it is perceived in the hearing. It is sond pressure on the ear drum.
 

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