Motorcycle turn signal wiring project question

[Squishman]

Unless it is marked for LED use it won't work and you will be wasting your time.

The variable flashers work the same way as the non variable. It still is the current through the bi-metallic strip that causes it to flash. The variable control just alters the tension on the strip. So more tension faster flash, less tension slower.

You really need to keep the ingredients for this meal down to the minimum. Simplicity is your friend on this one, so don't make it complicated.

It does say its an led flasher.

 

[TLS Guy]

It does say its an led flasher.

Then if you wire it correctly it will work.

 

[Squishman]

I got waylayed a tad bit on the turn signal project. I didn't like were my exhaust was bracketed to the footpeg mount. I made a strap to re-locate it. Had to cut the mounting tab down a little to pass by the footpeg mount and drill a new hole for the strap. The exhaust is SS, so I wasn't sure how hard that it going to be to cut, but it worked out swimmingly. But here's a couple shots of the turn signals. Haven't wired anything yet. I did try my neutral switch on the new speedo and that works.

 

[Squishman]

Here are better shots show how they are mounted in case anyone care to know.

 

[Squishman]

I started wiring the turn signals this afternoon and the diode for the turn signal light on the speedo arrived today too. So I was wondering how do I donnect the two inputs of that diode? If I use the attached diagram, would I connect them to the pin 87 wire on each relay? Or from the switch L & R ?
edit: Or I to simplify my question: wires from switch or positive wires to lights?

 

[Squishman]

Oh yeah. It has to the the positive wires to the lights. Otherwise, it wouldn't flash on the speedo indicator.

 

[Squishman]

I am getting so close to being able to ride my new (to me) bike. More than likely I will ride it on Saturday. So far, I have only ridden it once and that was when I test rode it. The turn signal project is almost done. I spent an hour or so today after work running and crimping wires. There were no left or right handlebar controls, so I got those. Well, the left. The right (start, engine kill) is on the way. There is no harness to plug into. The left wiring colors were not correct, so I had to take it apart just to see what colors went to what (turn signals, horn, headlight bright). Tieing it all into my new speedo. The right controls, I will add in later. He has a turn-key starter, like a car. I will be putting that back on the right contols along with the kill switch. I bought mirrors too. He had one, just to keep it legal I suppose, but I do not like that mirror.
I had to get a die to chase some threads on a footpeg mount that doubled as an exhaust mount. I changed the mount and I am quite happy with how that turned out. I had to cut and drill the SS exhaust mount tab. That project went swimmingly. I have only started the engine once so far after I installed the db killer. (I acually have two db killers, fore and aft inside the slip-on muffler. I will be checking my plugs, I do not know if that makes it run richer. Hope not.

 

[Squishman]

Then if you wire it correctly it will work.

After wiring everything, I was feeling pretty confident, but it's not flashing. I'll double check my wiring. But if it seems all correct, I am wondering if the cheap Chinese flasher is bad. If that is the culprit, do you recommend I get a 2 pin or 3 pin? I would likely try to get one locally. I was hoping to have it done by the weekend.

 

[TLS Guy]

After wiring everything, I was feeling pretty confident, but it's not flashing. I'll double check my wiring. But if it seems all correct, I am wondering if the cheap Chinese flasher is bad. If that is the culprit, do you recommend I get a 2 pin or 3 pin? I would likely try to get one locally. I was hoping to have it done by the weekend.

My hunch is that it because it is a variable flasher. The first thing I would do is make sure all your ground connections are good. Test them all carefully with a meter.
I would feel inclined to use a three pin flasher. Make sure it is for LED bulbs.

 

[Squishman]

The flasher works. I was trying my tester to see if I had 12v to the flasher and I did. I touched it on the L pin (I think... must have been), the flasher started flashing (just noise, clicking to tell me it works) but not the lights. I will check all my connections after work tomorrow. Could be I mixed up the pins on the relays, because none of the four lamps lights. The fronts, I have 3-wired, so they work as running lights. My speedo back light lights. The speedo turn signal indicator lights when I select left or right on the switch, but does not flash.

 

[Squishman]

What you said earlier TLS Guy, about making a soufle when it's really bread and butter, might be right. I am going to re-do the wiring based on the diagram you provided, eliminating the two relays and go with just the flasher.

 

[Squishman]

I am at such a loss here! Still not working, now with just an LED flasher and no (2) relays like the first configuaration. Such a drag! I want to ride this bike tomorrow as it might get to 80 degrees. So I am going to pull it all out and use hand signals for at least a little while. I will probably hook it all back up on a card table in the house just to see what is going on. I have a second battery. I tried grounding directly to the battery, exsisting wiring, etc to no avail. I have other things working from these 12 v and ground sources. I have power going to the flasher. Oh, btw, I went to Advance Auto this afternoon and bought another 3 pin LED flasher and plugged it in correctly. Still nothing. I also thought perhaps the lights were bad, so I hooked up just a pair of LED's from the chinese crap kit and it did not work either. I tried bypassing the switch, tieing the switch input wire to one out and nothing. This is mind boggling.

 

[TLS Guy]

I am at such a loss here! Still not working, now with just an LED flasher and no (2) relays like the first configuaration. Such a drag! I want to ride this bike tomorrow as it might get to 80 degrees. So I am going to pull it all out and use hand signals for at least a little while. I will probably hook it all back up on a card table in the house just to see what is going on. I have a second battery. I tried grounding directly to the battery, exsisting wiring, etc to no avail. I have other things working from these 12 v and ground sources. I have power going to the flasher. Oh, btw, I went to Advance Auto this afternoon and bought another 3 pin LED flasher and plugged it in correctly. Still nothing. I also thought perhaps the lights were bad, so I hooked up just a pair of LED's from the chinese crap kit and it did not work either. I tried bypassing the switch, tieing the switch input wire to one out and nothing. This is mind boggling.

If the lights don't turn on at all then you have made a wiring mistake. If they stay on then the bulbs are not drawing enough current to make the flasher flash.

I will be going to Grand Forks and then Benedict, starting first thing tomorrow and will be back Monday evening.

 

[Squishman]

If the lights don't turn on at all then you have made a wiring mistake. If they stay on then the bulbs are not drawing enough current to make the flasher flash.

I will be going to Grand Forks and then Benedict, starting first thing tomorrow and will be back Monday evening.

Have a safe drive!
There is a fuse line from the switched 12v source. I have power fore and aft of the fuse.

 

[TLS Guy]

Have a safe drive!
There is a fuse line from the switched 12v source. I have power fore and aft of the fuse.

I am going to say this one more time. Circuits are a circuit, which means circle. My experience of dealing with situations is that they have the power end OK, but forget the ground side, which has equal importance. All it takes to stop it working is a bit of paint in the wrong place. So check ground continuity.

 

[Squishman]

I am going to say this one more time. Circuits are a circuit, which means circle. My experience of dealing with situations is that they have the power end OK, but forget the ground side, which has equal importance. All it takes to stop it working is a bit of paint in the wrong place. So check ground continuity.

Having done decades of car stereo installs, I know not to try to ground on a painted surface. But I do appreciate the advice.