Marantz SR6013 heating up room!

ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
One of the bigger take-aways from Shady's article on Speaker Grilles: On Or Off? had to do with speaker placement being a much more impactful variable on sound quality rather than whether you used grilles or not. IIRC, your placement had that entire cabinet surface top in front of your center channel. Soundwaves are coming out and some are bouncing off the baffle of the speaker itself: this is common and good speaker designers account for this in the XO designs. Longer waves come out from the drivers and should radiate freely into the space around them. What you have is a significant boundary where (lets arbitrarily assign 40% just to help illustrate the issue) 40% of the soundwaves from your center speaker are being forced up and away from your listening position. Some of these may interact destructively with other soundwaves emanating from your Center creating cancellations, while others are sent bouncing haphazardly around the room.
Simply tipping the speaker up an an angle, say, or elevating it completely above that surface may or may not change anything. The better strategy is to have the front baffle sticking out just a little bit in front of the cabinets, and doing so in a way that has the speaker aimed more directly at your LP. The best strategy is to have the Center on its own stand which will allow it room behind (assuming it's ported) and room all around such that the speaker will perform as designed, radiating soundwaves naturally into your room and directed at you.

There is a lot of discussion in that thread itself, but reading Shady's article, and watching Gene's subsequesnt video may help your understanding. :)

Please mind, we all are questing for the best acoustic experience we can. It is your system and home, of course. Another topic that may or may not come up for you though, is if your center channel ever underperforms in HT application: unintelligible dialog being the worst. This comes up a lot on the forum here, unfortunately. And the solution is often times placement related. :)

Cheers!
 
fast fred

fast fred

Full Audioholic
One of the bigger take-aways from Shady's article on Speaker Grilles: On Or Off? had to do with speaker placement being a much more impactful variable on sound quality rather than whether you used grilles or not. IIRC, your placement had that entire cabinet surface top in front of your center channel. Soundwaves are coming out and some are bouncing off the baffle of the speaker itself: this is common and good speaker designers account for this in the XO designs. Longer waves come out from the drivers and should radiate freely into the space around them. What you have is a significant boundary where (lets arbitrarily assign 40% just to help illustrate the issue) 40% of the soundwaves from your center speaker are being forced up and away from your listening position. Some of these may interact destructively with other soundwaves emanating from your Center creating cancellations, while others are sent bouncing haphazardly around the room.
Simply tipping the speaker up an an angle, say, or elevating it completely above that surface may or may not change anything. The better strategy is to have the front baffle sticking out just a little bit in front of the cabinets, and doing so in a way that has the speaker aimed more directly at your LP. The best strategy is to have the Center on its own stand which will allow it room behind (assuming it's ported) and room all around such that the speaker will perform as designed, radiating soundwaves naturally into your room and directed at you.

There is a lot of discussion in that thread itself, but reading Shady's article, and watching Gene's subsequesnt video may help your understanding. :)

Please mind, we all are questing for the best acoustic experience we can. It is your system and home, of course. Another topic that may or may not come up for you though, is if your center channel ever underperforms in HT application: unintelligible dialog being the worst. This comes up a lot on the forum here, unfortunately. And the solution is often times placement related. :)

Cheers!
Wow thanks!
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
Personally, if it was me, I would try sliding the speaker forward before pricing a new one.

1) it's free
2) it's easy
3) it will almost certainly improve things

Why the first thing folks want to do is throw advice out the window instead of trying the basic, free and easy stuff suggested by seasoned audiophiles just baffles me. We have a few threads going right now where I think good solutions are offered, but they're not even being considered. They all want to get amplifiers, bi wire, bi amp and replace everything instead.
 
fast fred

fast fred

Full Audioholic
Yes I’m trying to pull the wires, Don’t have much room to pull them without yanking them out.
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
Even more than @3db and @M Code who have been recommending Yamaha for like 10 years now when @PENG and I were recommending Denon/Marantz? :D
I am strong proponent for whatever I am currently using in my system, just like everyone else. :D
I have 3 systems built around Yamaha ..Cant get anymore die hard than me. :p
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
What if I prop up the center instead of pulling all the way to the end of cabinet?
Guess I missed this...
Anyway, I doubt that would do anything. In fact it might be worse. By propping up the front of the speaker, the distance between the tweeter and cabinet will increase and possibly just add to the diffraction and delay times. Higher frequency waves are effected by inches because they’re so short where bass waves for example are so long it usually takes at least a foot(ime) to see anything appreciable.
So if the speaker has to be back a little bit, I would try a plush blanket, or some acoustic absorbing material in front of the center. it wouldn’t take much time to lay down a thickish blanket to see if it helps. Might turn of audyssey for the experiment since that CC is EQ’d for its current installation.
FWIW, all the way to the front is still the best solution. If the cable is too short you can use wire nuts, or butt connectors. Then you can run a whole new cable layer if that’s bugging you.
like this, or even wider for the other seats too.
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
How many years have you been a die-hard Yamaha fan? :D
Since 2008 when I purchased a RX-V1800 Yamaha AVR. Five years later, I purchased a used RX-V1500. Shortly after that, I purchased a used Yamaha cassette deck (Yamaha KX800) and it works flawlessly. It was never serviced. I found another KX800 two years later, purchased it. It wasn't serviced either but needed a cleaning and it too works flawlessly. Picked up a used RX-V1900 AVR, two years ago a KX1200 cassette deck. That one needed a little bit of work requiring both a tape bias display IC and work done to the manual tape bias control circuit. I also purchased a new BluRay player with 4K upscaling capability. I'm firmly entrenched in Yamaha and can vouch for both their build and sound quality.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top