Loudspeaker Power Handling: What's It All About Part I?



Audioholics Robot
Staff member
There are two basic ways in which you can destroy a loudspeaker with power; thermally or mechanically. Everyone is familiar with the concept of being able to burn a loudspeaker. It gets too hot, and the voice coil wire burns, or worse, something else (like the cone) catches on fire and burns. We all go shopping with “How many watts can it handle?” This is like living in a vast desert with only a few filling stations and wanting to know your cruising range in miles. We ask how big is the tank, and not how many miles we get to the gallon. (What is the efficiency?) In part I of this series, we examine a few very simple concepts regarding power handling and common misconceptions surrounding them.

Discuss "Loudspeaker Power Handling: What's It All About Part I?" here. Read the article.


Audioholics Accounts Manager
Excellent Job

Thank you for such easy to read information.
I can't wait to see what awaits on Part II!

TICA :cool:


Audioholic Spartan
Still over my head. If I revisit this from time to time, it might sink in.


Spk to RMS match

Will a 100/200 watt pa head run a 200/600 watt rated 10 inch speaker?


High temp wire enamel insulation

Have to say most of the reasons against the use of hi-temp insulated wire sounded hollow to me:
1) the class (or heat resistance) of the wire enamel coating does not influence solderability except perhaps you might need to use Hi-temp solder also.
2) Obtaining the desired wire & hi-temp coating might take a little extra time, so what, we are in a planned manufacturing environment surely?
3) What's the problem with Glue, use your standard mix which is not stated to be a component of "the problem".
If it's necessary to increase the bake time so what, durability & quality usually carry some price & you have a speaker with a somewhat higher rating.

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