JL 8w7 built in cabinet

[Bushka]

Your design looks OK. However bracing is very important. You do have space for interlocking boards with holes in. These should be datoed into the side and top and bottom walls. I'm not a fan of butt joints. Dato joints seal much better and are stronger.

Two by four braces have been shown to do little good. Good Dato bracing actually makes the cabinet easier to construct, as you build from the inside out and it keeps everything lined up.

Is there a good reference guide on building a box "inside out" and how the interlocking boards work, and so on somewhere on this site? I'm realizing that the more you help me the more questions that leads to, and I don't want you to have to tell me where every screw goes.

Thanks.

 

[Bushka]

The other thing is that this will be a cabinet with wooden doors that will remain shut. Heat build-up could be an issue. Is there a "standard" way to insure you get enough air through the cabinet to keep everything cool enough?

 

[lsiberian]

Is there a good reference guide on building a box "inside out" and how the interlocking boards work, and so on somewhere on this site? I'm realizing that the more you help me the more questions that leads to, and I don't want you to have to tell me where every screw goes.

Thanks.

The inside out dado technique only works if you have great precision in your cuts. An overlapping butt end joint is a much easier technique to employ. I personally have found building outside-in easier. I suppose every woodworker has his preference. I assemble the top, sides and bottom first. I then flush trim the edges and add the baffles. I first add the rear baffle and then add bracing. Bracing is much easier to get precise IMO with a miter saw. I then add cross bracing. For a sub I add corner braces since box strength is the priority. You might try building a shelf as a good intro project to your tools. If you are unfamiliar with them. Speakers and Sub building require precision.

 

[Bushka]

The other thing is that this will be a cabinet with wooden doors that will remain shut. Heat build-up could be an issue. Is there a "standard" way to insure you get enough air through the cabinet to keep everything cool enough?

Kinda weird replying to my own post, but the cabinet maker had a suggestion about the heat build up. He said we can put a small fan inside the cabinet that only comes on with high temperature. This sounds like a reasonable solution as long as we can dump the hot air somewhere outside the cabinet.

Also, it looks like we are going to divide the cabinet vertically so that I will have the sub to the right side of the vertical divider, and all the components (Blu Ray, receiver, etc etc) on the left side with shelving. I could probably line the sub woofer enclosure with something to deaden any vibration. This vertical divider will make it more difficult to deal with the plate amp unless I put the amp on the front of the box, pointing out. The only thing is the plate amp is almost as wide as this box is going to be so it could weaken the box. I liked the idea that the amp came on and off automatically, which is one reason I veered away from Isiberian's suggestion of using a separate amp. Also, I wanted to save space by using the plate amp. But now, maybe I can find an external amp that also comes on automatically? I'll have to just add another shelf for it on the left side.

 

[Bushka]

I've always found external amps to be way easier. I hate having to mount a plate amp on the back of a sub. Either way it would be a good idea to have an EQ system of some kind too. A Peavey IPR1600 would get you plenty of power for dual subs. You could use a minidsp for EQ. If you want to do a plate amp the O-Audio should be fine.

I was looking at the Peavey since I may not have space to mount the plate amp. I noticed a couple of things:

1. the Peavey can handle 2 subs but I only have 1. Is there another amp I can buy for just the 1 sub, and maybe save some $?

2. I notice the plate amp here (O Audio - 500W BASH Subwoofer Amplifier) has a lot more controls than the Peavey, including an EQ adjustment for "room modes" which I well might need as there are a few unknowns with this installation. It seems like the Peavey is less flexible for things like that and would require an additional expense (minidsp). True? I also like the auto on/off feature of the oaudio amp.

Thanks.

 

[scitizen17]

I built an 8W7 home subwoofer based on Dr. Mark's parameters.

Works very well. Very tight sound and well controlled.

I highly recommend it if you have an 8W7 laying around.

I can provide dimensional data if there is any interest.

I can't post a link due to my newbie status.

flickr.com/photos/85182399@N08/

Scott

 

[TLS Guy]

I built an 8W7 home subwoofer based on Dr. Mark's parameters.

Works very well. Very tight sound and well controlled.

I highly recommend it if you have an 8W7 laying around.

I can provide dimensional data if there is any interest.

I can't post a link due to my newbie status.

flickr.com/photos/85182399@N08/

Scott

Welcome to the forum. Your pictures show nice work, with a great finish.

I'm glad you are enjoying your sub. I do try and keep the bass as tight and controlled as possible with my designs. I really dislike boom.

 

[scitizen17]

Thanks very much for the design parameters. It was a little tricky to calculate the correct volume while integrating the port as I did to make a relatively simple enclosure. It does in fact rival much more expensive pre-built subs that are available.

Scott