Is there much audible difference between a 15" & 18" subwoofer?

A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
Hi I'm running two av123 UFW-10's and they just don't seem to give me the deep lows I can hear and feel. My fronts are Av123 Rocket RS760's and they have a really good bass response and sometimes I have to really listen to tell where they leave off and where the 10's begin. Is this a sealed enclosure thing or what? I used to remember 10's vented hitting pretty hard. I've been looking into purchasing a CHT 18.1 the vented one to be placed in the rear of the room 8' behind the main listening position. My question is would a 15" vented sub work just as well to provide the room shaking bass and would a vented and sealed sub arrangement work?

Also any suggestions on other subs will work fine. If you have one you'd like to part with let me know too.

Thanks guys

edit: I changed the crossover from 40Hz to 80Hz and it sounds a little better. Audyssey had the Fronts/Center RSC200 (bigfoot) at 40HZ
 
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ImcLoud

ImcLoud

Audioholic Ninja
If you have the room an the budget, go 18, its awesome...

Now I was told that the right 12" sub easily can go lower than the human ear can hear, but you can still feel it, and show it off
 
A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
The budget part is whats keeping me from just pulling the trigger on the 18". I have the space for it but I did notice that the sub was larger than my beer fridge and I don't want to loose WAF.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
...but I did notice that the sub was larger than my beer fridge and I don't want to loose WAF.
I can't tell you how mad I am at myself for not being able to come up with a good joke here. I'm laughing so hard, I can barely breathe. :D
 
A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
: ) Ha ha yeah my wife laughed too as even she saw the irony. lol

I would place it in the rear of the room and lay it on its side if I had something that big.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I'm no expert for sure, and I'm sure you'll get better and more thorough answers, but I can sure chime in with the little I do know.

First you should try to compare apples to apples. Sealed to sealed, vented to vented. They behave differently and you should also choose which one better fits your needs.

The larger the sub the more surface area you'll have so the easier it will be for that sub to pressurize a larger space to a given SPL or the easier it will be to pressurize a smaller room to maximum SPL.

Generally a vented sub will have a steeper roll off below the tuning frequency, but remain flatter to the tuning frequency. A sealed sub will roll off sooner, but more gradually.

A vented sub will usually be able to output higher SPL's than a similarly sized sealed.

If you're worried about WAF, you'll probably want to stay sealed. A sealed 18" will get you more output than a sealed 15", but in a much larger cabinet.

If you go with 15", it may be cheaper, smaller, and you can try to get a second one which will smooth out frequency response across a wider area. Adding a second 15" will also increase maximum output. I think it's 1.5 db if you place it in a different spot and 3 db gain if you stack them or place them side by side. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but it's something like that.

More subs = better.

It's also not surprising that raising the X over helped out. I don't know what the FR looks like for your towers, but I'm guessing they start their roll off well above 40 Hz. Plus that's an area where a lot of hit you in the chest bass is, and with a cross of 40 you're sending a lot of that to your towers, which probably are not equipped for that.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
For a shorter answer to your question. If you have a 15" version and an 18" version of the same sub, you'll probably notice higher output from the 18", it also sound less strained if you really get on it and push it hard as well.

Between different models, but similar quality. It depends.
 
A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
Hi Fuzz,

Thanks for the good info.

The fronts are av123 Rs760's you should be able to see them on google. I was planning on keeping both UFW-10's and adding the 15 or 18. Do you think they will work together ok? I have the 10's upfront flanking the center channel, and would place the larger sub in the rear 19' away. Thanks
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
So they're down 3db at about 36Hz. I can't see the FR graph, but I'm guessing the natural roll off starts around 50-80. Which means a crossover of around 70-90 depending on where it begins would keep everything flat.

Obviously this means your subwoofer needs to be flat up to 100-120 in order to have the most seamless transition.

I'm not really sure of the quality of the UFW-10's not having heard them. However, I think it would be safe to assume that a single well made 15" could at least equal output and SQ.

Ideally you don't want to mismatch subs. If you do end up getting a 15" or 18" I would just experiment and try different configurations. You may find that you like only the new sub without the old ones better than trying to meld them together.

The reason I say this is that if the two smaller ones start to get sloppy below XX Hz, but the new one can play cleanly down to 20 and up to 120. You may find you appreciate the nice clean bass more, even though you may sacrifice some output, although a well made HSU, SVS, or Powersound audio sub will rock your socks off. Heck, I have an outlaw LFM-1 EX and that provides a ton of output in a decent sized area and that's only a 12. Plus its variable tune which is nice.

If you're really serious about this a budget would be helpful and what you plan on using the subs for most (music or movies). Also the size of your space and if it is open to any others.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi I'm running two av123 UFW-10's and they just don't seem to give me the deep lows I can hear and feel. My fronts are Av123 Rocket RS760's and they have a really good bass response and sometimes I have to really listen to tell where they leave off and where the 10's begin. Is this a sealed enclosure thing or what? I used to remember 10's vented hitting pretty hard. I've been looking into purchasing a CHT 18.1 the vented one to be placed in the rear of the room 8' behind the main listening position. My question is would a 15" vented sub work just as well to provide the room shaking bass and would a vented and sealed sub arrangement work?

Also any suggestions on other subs will work fine. If you have one you'd like to part with let me know too.

Thanks guys

edit: I changed the crossover from 40Hz to 80Hz and it sounds a little better. Audyssey had the Fronts/Center RSC200 (bigfoot) at 40HZ
You have asked a question with no answer by cone diameter alone. The size of the woofer cone is only one of many factors that determine the output of a sub and virtually nothing to do with low frequency extension.

Output from the cone is a function is cone area and stroke, which within the linear operating range of the driver is xmax. So max output is a function of cone area and xmax. So you can have a high xmax driver of 8" that has more output then a low xmax 18. In addition the flux density of the driver has to be taken into account. The higher the greater the output. However there is an inverse relationship between flux density and bass extension, which is unfortunate.

Low frequency extension is almost entirely a function of the driver free air resonance Fs. So a low Fs 8" driver will have lower bass extension than a high Fs 18.

So Fs essentially marks the floor of the low frequency extension.

Now in a sealed alignment the entire output is a function of cone area and stroke.

The low frequency extension is usually around an octave or more above Fs and rolls off at 12 db per octave. However if there is sufficient stroke, equalization of 12 db for octave can be used to maintain flat response to the Fs region. This requires a lot more amp power and a much more expensive driver, with a long stroke and obviously a larger cone area helps.

In a vented enclosure (and I will include PR alignments here, as they are virtually identical to ported alignments, with a slightly steeper roll off), most of the output at tuning comes from the port (PR) and not the driver. In fact the driver virtually stops still. Below tuning cone movements rapidly increase, but despite the motion output falls to zero at 24 db per octave quickly, so the cone motion becomes quickly useless as the driver decouples from the box. Equalization to extend bass response is useless and just results in driver destruction.

After all this we have the question of bass quality which is essentially a function of total system Q. Basically this means the bandwidth of resonant reproduction. If you build a driver with a heavy cone, highly compliant suspension and relatively low flux density, you have a high Q driver. The sound will be sloppy and not at all well defined. However all things being equal it is easier to get bass extension. The driver with the tight suspension and high flux density, will have a more accurate and controlled bass, but roll off will occur well above F3.

Now total system Q can never be lower than the driver Qts. It is easier to control total system Q in a sealed alignment and get it close to driver Qts.

Now a total system Q of 1 or over sounds very sloppy with a bass that oozes like goo all over the sound field. Most people fine a total Q of around 0.7 acceptable, but it is too high and will be perceived as resonant reproduction.

At a total Q of 0.5 or less reproduction is considered to be essentially non resonant. Total system Qts in this range can only be achieved by sealed, aperiodic transmission line, horn, infinite baffle and and open box dipole systems.

The only ported arrangements that give the designer good control of total Q are second order couple cavity systems, but they have significant problems of their own and are used less and less frequently. The main problem being that all direct output from the cone is sacrificed and they are band pass in nature and roll off above and below tuning. The lower Q, is the narrower the bandwidth. In my experience they are only useful in supplementing speakers that have an F3 at least an octave below the upper F3 point of the band pass sub. Crossover must be acoustic usually.

A Q4 ported box will always be a resonant system and never low Q without killing the resonance and therefore driver augmentation.

Only damped aperiodic TL and horn systems can achieve driver augmentation and low Q.

I'm a frequent concert attender, and have just come back from a fine SPCO concert at the Ordway St. Paul.

Every time I return from a concert I'm convinced that the vast majority of sound reproducers have far too a high total system Q with highly inaccurate bass.
 
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A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
Why not go 36"?
So they're down 3db at about 36Hz. I can't see the FR graph, but I'm guessing the natural roll off starts around 50-80. Which means a crossover of around 70-90 depending on where it begins would keep everything flat.

Obviously this means your subwoofer needs to be flat up to 100-120 in order to have the most seamless transition.

I'm not really sure of the quality of the UFW-10's not having heard them. However, I think it would be safe to assume that a single well made 15" could at least equal output and SQ.

Ideally you don't want to mismatch subs. If you do end up getting a 15" or 18" I would just experiment and try different configurations. You may find that you like only the new sub without the old ones better than trying to meld them together.

The reason I say this is that if the two smaller ones start to get sloppy below XX Hz, but the new one can play cleanly down to 20 and up to 120. You may find you appreciate the nice clean bass more, even though you may sacrifice some output, although a well made HSU, SVS, or Powersound audio sub will rock your socks off. Heck, I have an outlaw LFM-1 EX and that provides a ton of output in a decent sized area and that's only a 12. Plus its variable tune which is nice.

If you're really serious about this a budget would be helpful and what you plan on using the subs for most (music or movies). Also the size of your space and if it is open to any others.
I'll see about getting the measurements posted today, also Ill lay out the plan too.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
You're talking about dual 18's right?
Area of the driver is radius squared X pi.

So two 18" drivers is 509 square inches.

one 36" driver is 1018 square inches.

So two 18" drivers have half the area of one 36" driver.
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
... I have the space for it but I did notice that the sub was larger than my beer fridge and I don't want to loose WAF.
I'm holding out until someone comes up with a Sub / Beer Fridge Combo unit.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
I'm holding out until someone comes up with a Sub / Beer Fridge Combo unit.
Ah, the suberator. Awesome in theory, but I got tired of the foam spray every time I opened a beer. Kept the amp nice and cool, though...
 
A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
Room plans

So this is the basement/man cave.

It's set for a 6.3 config and currently the sub in the rear corner is a 8" ported sub that I want to replace with a 15+" vented/ported sub for the lows. I found FMOD's in line crossovers that I was thinking about putting on the 10" subs to limit them at 50Hz. I want the larger sub to handle 80Hz - <20Hz.

The budget was $500 but I'm willing to stretch that to $700.00.

Power sources:
Denon AVR-3312ic
UFW-10's (self powered)
Crown xls 602 (power for new sub)

Edit: Let me know if you need more info to help you out here. The ceilings are 7' from the tv to the couch and to portside, aft of the couch it is 6' 2".

Thanks
 

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A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
I didn't know they made a 36" subwoofer. I'll google that and see, it sounds like it would be over my budget but hey I'll check it out first before saying that. : )
 
A

Adaboy

Enthusiast
Waf

I'm holding out until someone comes up with a Sub / Beer Fridge Combo unit.
You and Adam are hilarious! My wife is cracking up laughing reading y'all posts. Hell y'alls humor is warming her up to allowing me to have a huge rear sub or heck maybe even a suberator!:D
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
So by audioholics standards you have a medium sized room.

So you're almost looking to use the dual 10"s as mid bass modules?

If I were you I'd put the new sub up front and the smaller ones at the rear.
 
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