M

Matt J

Audiophyte
I recently installed a Marantz Cinema 50 in a media room with all the AV equipment located in a media cabinet behind closed doors. As such, I need an outboard IR solution so I can use the IR remote. The Cinema 50 has an IR Flasher input jack (1/8" mono) on the rear panel. The problem is, I cant find any 'off the shelf' repeater/extender units that can be used this way. All the extenders/repeaters I have found re-emit the IR signal in IR form so the emitter module needs to physically in front of the component such that the IR receiver on the front of the component can get the signal. I thought the whole point of the IR Flasher input jack on the rear of the AVR is so you can have outboard IR reception without the need to utilize the on board, front facing IR receiver. My attempts at getting info from Marantz have been fruitless.
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I recently installed a Marantz Cinema 50 in a media room with all the AV equipment located in a media cabinet behind closed doors. As such, I need an outboard IR solution so I can use the IR remote. The Cinema 50 has an IR Flasher input jack (1/8" mono) on the rear panel. The problem is, I cant find any 'off the shelf' repeater/extender units that can be used this way. All the extenders/repeaters I have found re-emit the IR signal in IR form so the emitter module needs to physically in front of the component such that the IR receiver on the front of the component can get the signal. I thought the whole point of the IR Flasher input jack on the rear of the AVR is so you can have outboard IR reception without the need to utilize the on board, front facing IR receiver. My attempts at getting info from Marantz have been fruitless.
This whole area is a mess it seems.

The big problem is that the remote IR receiver has to send the right codes. In addition the port on the back of the receiver needs to power the transponder but none do. This is commonly done with TV boxes as they have it right. But receivers are a big problem.

There are DIY circuits and they have been constructed and published, but results have been hit and miss. The issue is that the device must transmit the right codes as digital pulses and not light pulses.

Your best solution is to get a remote unit that transmits light to your sensor on the front of your receiver.

Here is a DIY solution.



You could also build a 9V power supply to replace the battery. I am pretty sure only DIY will solve your problem.
 
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